The duc tape they sell today is crap. So, I was wondering, after the
second
failure downstairs on the dryer, ... has anyone use machine screws to
connect light AL exhaust ducting? The only down side could see
would be perhaps the lint gathering on the screw inside the duct and
causing a problem.

(Yes, I know the old rubberized stuff is still available on line. I
used to repair my
down jackets with it :-)

They do make a clamp for your project, I have one an it has been trouble
free for two years.

Searcher

tec screws work the gorilla glue folks make decent duct tape
werwer wrote:
The duc tape they sell today is crap. So, I was wondering, after the
second
failure downstairs on the dryer, ... has anyone use machine screws to
connect light AL exhaust ducting? The only down side could see
would be perhaps the lint gathering on the screw inside the duct and
causing a problem.

(Yes, I know the old rubberized stuff is still available on line. I
used to repair my
down jackets with it :-)

werwer wrote:
The duc tape they sell today is crap. So, I was wondering, after the
second
failure downstairs on the dryer, ... has anyone use machine screws to
connect light AL exhaust ducting? The only down side could see
would be perhaps the lint gathering on the screw inside the duct and
causing a problem.

(Yes, I know the old rubberized stuff is still available on line. I
used to repair my
down jackets with it :-)

Don't use screws, the points collect lint. It is a fire hazard.

Don't use duct tape, use the special aluminum skinned tape made for
ducts. Duct take is NOT made for that use. The right take will cost more
and will have a peel off paper over the adhesive.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

Or maybe try the metal tape? Tom
wrote:
tec screws work the gorilla glue folks make decent duct tape
werwer wrote:
The duc tape they sell today is crap. So, I was wondering, after the
second
failure downstairs on the dryer, ... has anyone use machine screws to
connect light AL exhaust ducting? The only down side could see
would be perhaps the lint gathering on the screw inside the duct and
causing a problem.

(Yes, I know the old rubberized stuff is still available on line. I
used to repair my
down jackets with it :-)

werwer wrote:
The duc tape they sell today is crap. So, I was wondering, after the
second
failure downstairs on the dryer, ... has anyone use machine screws to
connect light AL exhaust ducting? The only down side could see
would be perhaps the lint gathering on the screw inside the duct and
causing a problem.

You are not supposed to use screws for the reason you mentioned. Duct
tape isn't used for ducts - it doesn't last. Buy a roll of the
aluminum foil tape - it's stronger, has better adhesive and it lasts.
http://paint-and-supplies.hardwarest...pe-280313.aspx
The big box store carries the stuff as will most hardware stores.

R

"werwer" wrote in message
ups.com...
The duc tape they sell today is crap. So, I was wondering, after the
second failure downstairs on the dryer

Try using the PROPER tape... DUC tape is *NOT* duct tape...

Use aluminum DUCT tape.
, ... has anyone use machine screws to
connect light AL exhaust ducting?

They will collect crap and should be avoided if possible.

Don't use duct tape, use the special aluminum skinned tape made for
ducts.

That IS duct tape.

Duct take is NOT made for that use. The right take will cost more and
will have a peel off paper over the adhesive.

You are getting duct and "duc" tape mixed up. The grey cloth stuff is "duc"
tape and not used on ducts.

Use the round clamps they sell. Note that the Whirlpool dryers and Kenmores
made by whirpool have a very short snout to attach the clamp to but it is
possible to do it securely if you locate the locking screw mechanism to the
bottom of the duct. Why whirlpool uses such a short pipe is beyond me.
Maytag gives you several inches to attach the duct to.


"werwer" wrote in message
ups.com...
The duc tape they sell today is crap. So, I was wondering, after the
second
failure downstairs on the dryer, ... has anyone use machine screws to
connect light AL exhaust ducting? The only down side could see
would be perhaps the lint gathering on the screw inside the duct and
causing a problem.

(Yes, I know the old rubberized stuff is still available on line. I
used to repair my
down jackets with it :-)

Also don't buy those plastic friction fit dryer duct connectors. They fail
in a few months.


"werwer" wrote in message
ups.com...
The duc tape they sell today is crap. So, I was wondering, after the
second
failure downstairs on the dryer, ... has anyone use machine screws to
connect light AL exhaust ducting? The only down side could see
would be perhaps the lint gathering on the screw inside the duct and
causing a problem.

(Yes, I know the old rubberized stuff is still available on line. I
used to repair my
down jackets with it :-)

"Art" wrote in message
nk.net...
Use the round clamps they sell. Note that the Whirlpool dryers and
Kenmores made by whirpool have a very short snout to attach the clamp to
but it is possible to do it securely if you locate the locking screw
mechanism to the bottom of the duct. Why whirlpool uses such a short
pipe is beyond me. Maytag gives you several inches to attach the duct to.

The way that most dryers hook up is a pain in the @$$... Trying to line up a
pipe behind the dryer with the one in the was is difficult.

I don't see why someone can't invent another method.

I've seen some dryers where you can move the output to the side instead of
the rear. Still not the best method, but easier to hook up.

werwer wrote:
The duc tape they sell today is crap. So, I was wondering, after the
second
failure downstairs on the dryer, ... has anyone use machine screws to
connect light AL exhaust ducting? The only down side could see
would be perhaps the lint gathering on the screw inside the duct and
causing a problem.

(Yes, I know the old rubberized stuff is still available on line. I
used to repair my
down jackets with it :-)


My suggestion is get the duct work situated where all the connections
are happy.

Tape the joints with aluminum tape, use the type that comes with peel
off backing, it's the best.

If the ducting setup is uncooperative you can use some screws on
temporary basis & then remove them & tape over holes when done.

I've have some aluminum tape installations that are 20+ years old &
still sound.

btw the AL tape isn't really all that much more expensive than duct
tape.

cheers
Bob

werwer wrote:
The duc tape they sell today is crap. So, I was wondering, after the
second
failure downstairs on the dryer, ... has anyone use machine screws to
connect light AL exhaust ducting? The only down side could see
would be perhaps the lint gathering on the screw inside the duct and
causing a problem.

(Yes, I know the old rubberized stuff is still available on line. I
used to repair my
down jackets with it :-)

go to a heating and air conditioning supply house and buy your tape
from there.... it will be of better quality than walmart or home cheapo
tape.....

or you could use cheap tape but first spray the joint you want
connected with some spray adhesive....

or use a big metal hose clamp......

Noozer wrote:

Don't use duct tape, use the special aluminum skinned tape made for
ducts.

That IS duct tape.

Duct take is NOT made for that use. The right take will cost more and
will have a peel off paper over the adhesive.

You are getting duct and "duc" tape mixed up. The grey cloth stuff is
"duc" tape and not used on ducts.

I'd be interested in seeing a source for that information.

--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

I don't remember duct tape ever being particularly good.

wrote:
I don't remember duct tape ever being particularly good.

Definitely not when used on heating ducts. Others are right, use the
aluminum type. Once on it is there for the ages.

Harry K

BobK207 wrote:

I've have some aluminum tape installations that are 20+ years old &
still sound.

btw the AL tape isn't really all that much more expensive than duct
tape.

The foil tape roll itself is about the same price, but it's only about
1/6 as long. Six times the price.

R

Noozer wrote:
Don't use duct tape, use the special aluminum skinned tape made
for ducts.

That IS duct tape.

Well yes, but it is a specific duct tape and now what most people mean
or think of when the term duct tape is used.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...ducts&Ntt=tape I don't know if the link will work, but if it does the second and thirdtape is the stuff to use. I have not seen the special variety for flex duct. Interesting. Duct take is NOT made for that use. The right take will cost more and will have a peel off paper over the adhesive. You are getting duct and "duc" tape mixed up. The grey cloth stuff is "duc" tape and not used on ducts.--Joseph MeehanDia duit

wrote:

I don't remember duct tape ever being particularly good.

No, a source for the nomenclature "duc" tape as being different from "duct"
tape.

--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

werwer wrote:
The duc tape they sell today is crap. So, I was wondering, after the

There is nothing wrong with real duct tape. That "economy" stuff at
wally etc is a different story.


second
failure downstairs on the dryer, ... has anyone use machine screws to
connect light AL exhaust ducting? The only down side could see
would be perhaps the lint gathering on the screw inside the duct and
causing a problem.


Yes, thats the reason to use tape.

(Yes, I know the old rubberized stuff is still available on line. I
used to repair my
down jackets with it :-)


You could get it at at a real plumbing/heating supply store.

J. Clarke wrote:
Noozer wrote:


Don't use duct tape, use the special aluminum skinned tape made for
ducts.

That IS duct tape.


Duct take is NOT made for that use. The right take will cost more and
will have a peel off paper over the adhesive.

You are getting duct and "duc" tape mixed up. The grey cloth stuff is
"duc" tape and not used on ducts.


I'd be interested in seeing a source for that information.


Typically foil tape is used on ducts. That cloth "duck tape" is just a
"economy" product sold for some reason (maybe to have a cheep product
for the big box stores).

George wrote:

J. Clarke wrote:
Noozer wrote:


Don't use duct tape, use the special aluminum skinned tape made for
ducts.

That IS duct tape.


Duct take is NOT made for that use. The right take will cost more and
will have a peel off paper over the adhesive.

You are getting duct and "duc" tape mixed up. The grey cloth stuff is
"duc" tape and not used on ducts.


I'd be interested in seeing a source for that information.


Typically foil tape is used on ducts. That cloth "duck tape" is just a
"economy" product sold for some reason (maybe to have a cheep product
for the big box stores).

?? "Duck Tape" is Henkel's (parent company of Lepages and Loctite among
others) brand name for their industrial tape products. 3M also makes a
range of fabric tapes as do others. It's sold because (a) it meets various
specifications and (b) because it is very useful stuff to have around.

--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

On Tue, 13 Jun 2006 03:19:10 GMT, "Noozer" wrote:


"Art" wrote in message
ink.net...
Use the round clamps they sell. Note that the Whirlpool dryers and
Kenmores made by whirpool have a very short snout to attach the clamp to
but it is possible to do it securely if you locate the locking screw
mechanism to the bottom of the duct. Why whirlpool uses such a short
pipe is beyond me. Maytag gives you several inches to attach the duct to.

The way that most dryers hook up is a pain in the @$$... Trying to line up a
pipe behind the dryer with the one in the was is difficult.

I don't see why someone can't invent another method.

I've seen some dryers where you can move the output to the side instead of
the rear. Still not the best method, but easier to hook up.

Reading your post reminded me that I had come across a product that
purports to solve this problem:

http://www.wired-2-shop.com/joneakes...geID=&CatID=10

I haven't tried it myself.

RicodJour wrote:
BobK207 wrote:

I've have some aluminum tape installations that are 20+ years old &
still sound.

btw the AL tape isn't really all that much more expensive than duct
tape.

The foil tape roll itself is about the same price, but it's only about
1/6 as long. Six times the price.

R

The foil tape roll itself is about the same price, but it's only about
1/6 as long. Six times the price



I'll be checking on that.......1/6 as long would make it only a 10 yard
roll.........I'm way too cheap to pay $8 for 10 yards

The last roll of Al tape I got was in the 7 to $8 range & I recall it
was pretty long. I'm not going to unroll it even though I'm tempted
to.

I know they had a "short roll" about 10 yards but I opted for the long
roll, it was a much better value.

The cheap duct tape is in the $3 range but the better stuff is $10 & up
for 60 yards.

I don't think the price ratio is 6:1, I'm thinking it's more like 2:1
or less.

Just my experience

I still wouldn't use even the best duct tape even if it was free!

cheers
Bob

Noozer wrote:
Don't use duct tape, use the special aluminum skinned tape made for
ducts.

That IS duct tape.

Duct take is NOT made for that use. The right take will cost more and
will have a peel off paper over the adhesive.

You are getting duct and "duc" tape mixed up. The grey cloth stuff is "duc"
tape and not used on ducts.



The gray cloth stuff is duct insulators tape or duct tape for short.
Its original use was to hold the cloth coverings over fiber insulation
in place while they were sewn. It was cloth tape so you could sew right
through it.
--
Tom Horne

"This alternating current stuff is just a fad. It is much too dangerous
for general use." Thomas Alva Edison