For the first time I had to remove a leaky shutoff valve that attaches to
brass pipe with a compression fitting, and then put in a new shutoff valve
that also has a compression fitting.

I hate this compression fitting thing.

Firstly, removing the old ferrule (ring) from the pipe was quite a task. The
ring has almost embedded itself into the pipe. After that, I had to polish
the pipe. The new ferrule fit very loosely over the pipe -- I can probably
wrap a sheet of paper on the pipe and the ring would still slide on.

Needless to say, the nut had to be turned many times, with wrenches. Who
said it can be hand tightened?? In addition, if the valve is accidentally
turned slightly (with the non-moving wrench), the seal may break. I only
tightened the nut until water stopped leaking. All the while I was worrying
I might over-tightened. Now I'm worry it may leak, or the water pressure
might "shoot" the valve off the pipe and flood the house.

Then I read that this fitting is a nice because it allows the valve to be
removed and the pipe reused. Yeah right. The old fitting dented the pipe I'm
lucky the pipe wasn't grinded to even smaller diameter when pulling the old
ring out.

I guess other people must have more positive experience working with
compression fitting; otherwise it wouldn't be in so widespread use.

Are there indoor shutoff valves that can be solder on brass pipe? In
retrospect, I think I would have spent less time and sleep more at ease if I
solder on the new valve. Though, the valve is under a kitchen sink, so
perhaps it's not a good place for soldering.



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

John wrote:
For the first time I had to remove a leaky shutoff valve that attaches to
brass pipe with a compression fitting, and then put in a new shutoff valve
that also has a compression fitting.

I hate this compression fitting thing.

Firstly, removing the old ferrule (ring) from the pipe was quite a task. The
ring has almost embedded itself into the pipe. After that, I had to polish
the pipe. The new ferrule fit very loosely over the pipe -- I can probably
wrap a sheet of paper on the pipe and the ring would still slide on.

Needless to say, the nut had to be turned many times, with wrenches. Who
said it can be hand tightened?? In addition, if the valve is accidentally
turned slightly (with the non-moving wrench), the seal may break. I only
tightened the nut until water stopped leaking. All the while I was worrying
I might over-tightened. Now I'm worry it may leak, or the water pressure
might "shoot" the valve off the pipe and flood the house.

Then I read that this fitting is a nice because it allows the valve to be
removed and the pipe reused. Yeah right. The old fitting dented the pipe I'm
lucky the pipe wasn't grinded to even smaller diameter when pulling the old
ring out.

I guess other people must have more positive experience working with
compression fitting; otherwise it wouldn't be in so widespread use.

Are there indoor shutoff valves that can be solder on brass pipe? In
retrospect, I think I would have spent less time and sleep more at ease if I
solder on the new valve. Though, the valve is under a kitchen sink, so
perhaps it's not a good place for soldering.



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Compression fitings are a bear to change out.

Whenever I run across a compression attached shutoff valve that is not
working / leaking I remove the ring.

Sometimes I use a dremel, sometimes I have enough extra tube to just
cut it off.

I solder on male pipe adapter & thread on a ball valve for shutoff
duty.
Soldering can be done under the sink, just get everything out of there.

Now if the valve fails I can just un-thread & replace it.

Compression shutoff are used because they're quick to install. But
they can be trouble downstream if they go bad.

In a ten year old house, out of 20 compression shutoffs I've only had
one go bad (in the laundry). I'm going to replace the hot & cold
shutoff with ball valves on male pipe adapters, soldered.

cheers
Bob

"BobK207" wrote in message
ups.com...
Compression fitings are a bear to change out.

Whenever I run across a compression attached shutoff valve that is not
working / leaking I remove the ring.

Sometimes I use a dremel, sometimes I have enough extra tube to just
cut it off.

When using a dremel, how do you avoid cutting/scratching the pipe itself
when the ring is nearly cut?

I solder on male pipe adapter & thread on a ball valve for shutoff
duty.
Soldering can be done under the sink, just get everything out of there.

I like this idea. Is there any plumbing code saying how it should or should
not be done? What size thread and valve do you use? Do you need an adapter
to convert the outlet to 3/8" to fit most hoses under the sink? If you could
point to photo/descriptions of the items you use that would be great. I
searched the web but could not find any how-to article on replacing
stem/washer shut off valve with ball valve.

Now if the valve fails I can just un-thread & replace it.

Since ball valves are supposed to be very reliable, you probably won't have
to.



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

John wrote:
"BobK207" wrote in message
ups.com...
Compression fitings are a bear to change out.

Whenever I run across a compression attached shutoff valve that is not
working / leaking I remove the ring.

Sometimes I use a dremel, sometimes I have enough extra tube to just
cut it off.

When using a dremel, how do you avoid cutting/scratching the pipe itself
when the ring is nearly cut?

I solder on male pipe adapter & thread on a ball valve for shutoff
duty.
Soldering can be done under the sink, just get everything out of there.

I like this idea. Is there any plumbing code saying how it should or should
not be done? What size thread and valve do you use? Do you need an adapter
to convert the outlet to 3/8" to fit most hoses under the sink? If you could
point to photo/descriptions of the items you use that would be great. I
searched the web but could not find any how-to article on replacing
stem/washer shut off valve with ball valve.

Now if the valve fails I can just un-thread & replace it.

Since ball valves are supposed to be very reliable, you probably won't have
to.

When using a dremel, how do you avoid cutting/scratching the pipe itself when the ring is nearly cut?

I stop cutting before the ring is completely cut & then I just peel the
ring apart

Is there any plumbing code saying how it should or should
not be done?

Not that I know of.....

What size thread and valve do you use?

I typically standardize on 1/2 male pipe. I put a 1/2 pipe nipple on
the output side of the valve & then use those stainless braid / rubber
core supply lines.

Do you need an adapter to convert the outlet to 3/8" to fit most hoses under the sink?
see above

If you could point to photo/descriptions of the items you use that would be great.

www.mcmaster.com
catalog page 177
5520K11
Wrot-Copper Soldered-End Tube Fitting
Male Straight Adapter for 1/2" Tube Sz, 1/2" NPT


catalog page 370
47865K43
Brass Ball Valve 1/2" Pipe Size, Male X Female
In stock at $7.86 Each

If you use a female x male valve you would need the extra nipple



Now if the valve fails I can just un-thread & replace it.

Since ball valves are supposed to be very reliable, you probably won't have
to.

Ball valves lst 20+ years in my experience, I've only had to re-replace
a very few.

cheers
Bob