I am being stalled (for 7 months now) on insurance claim and am living
without stove, toilet, lavatory or kitchen sink. I have spent ALL my
money on extra living expenses & am barely avoiding bankruptcy. So, my
only option is to install my new fixtures myself. I have pipes and new
water lines with cut-offs installed already. But, I need to hook up
PVC drains (need solvent and glue) and I need to know which kind of
valves to use to connect braided supply lines to faucets and to copper
lines. Wish I could show you photographs! Also need to know what is
needed for toilet install besides the wax ring and water supply line
and the innards.

Also, I have some un-connected electrical wiring which I'd like to
complete, because although I capped the wires, they are not useful at
all; not are the circuits along the lines. I think I know how to do
all that.

Do I need more than a new basin wrench, pipe compound, pvc glue, and
stuff like that?
Can anybody help me without actually looking at the situation? Am I in
big trouble?

Thanks so much!

Greener than green...........Liz

Attaching the valves to the supply lines is the only hard part. If the
plumber roughed them out to 1/2" male threaded adapters, then just get
valves to screw onto that. The front part of the valve depends on what size
supply lines you want to connect to but with the variaty of hoses available,
I went with 1/2" ball type valves. If the supply line is roughed out to a
capped pipe, I think it is easier to sweat on a male adapter then procede as
above rather than using the compression or solder type valves. Easier to
replace in the future if they break or you want a different size or angle.

Make sure the pipes are PVC not ABS to get the right solvent. ABS is
usually black while PVC is white. ABS uses solvent glue only while PVC uses
primer first.

For the sink, get a plastic P trap and some 45 or 90 elbows to make the
transition from the sink to the drain stack. Sounds like you already know
how to do the toilet.

Electrical branches are usually wired in series from one receptacle to the
next. You need to have them all wired up to get power to the furthest plug.
Else you can just power the first plug and leave the rest capped.

Stove should be easy too if the wires are in place. Is it hard wired or
using a cordset. Make sure to get wire nuts big enough for the wires you
have or a cordset with the proper amperage rating and plug shape (i.e. range
cords come in 40A and 55A models. At HD the 55A ones were with the
extension cords and the 40A ones were in the appliance dept, isles away).

You're only in trouble if your confidence fails. Sounds like you might know
enough to get by. A few how to books from the library should fill in the
rest of the blanks.




wrote in message
ups.com...
I am being stalled (for 7 months now) on insurance claim and am living
without stove, toilet, lavatory or kitchen sink. I have spent ALL my
money on extra living expenses & am barely avoiding bankruptcy. So, my
only option is to install my new fixtures myself. I have pipes and new
water lines with cut-offs installed already. But, I need to hook up
PVC drains (need solvent and glue) and I need to know which kind of
valves to use to connect braided supply lines to faucets and to copper
lines. Wish I could show you photographs! Also need to know what is
needed for toilet install besides the wax ring and water supply line
and the innards.

Also, I have some un-connected electrical wiring which I'd like to
complete, because although I capped the wires, they are not useful at
all; not are the circuits along the lines. I think I know how to do
all that.

Do I need more than a new basin wrench, pipe compound, pvc glue, and
stuff like that?
Can anybody help me without actually looking at the situation? Am I in
big trouble?

Thanks so much!

Greener than green...........Liz