This is really more of an exasperated shout out than a question but
sometimes you just have to ask.

After having performed many small repairs to my galvanized pipes, I'm
repeatedly thwarted by the threaded connections between the galvanized and
the replacement. Is there a real good trick to making a leak proof
connection between an old pipe and a new one? I've tried using teflon tape
in small amounts on the threads, I've tried reefing down on the joint so
hard the planet tilts sideways in reaction, I've tried cleaning the two
joints so well that you could see my reflection in the threads from a block
away. None of this ever produces a joint that stays leak free. I don't
mean a gusher, I mean drip.........drip............drip...............dr ip.
It does stop dripping, after about 2 weeks when rust forms between the two
pipes.

Everyone talks about pipe dope, I have yet to try that, mostly because after
a while my stubborness overcomes reality and after that all rational thought
is blocked. I guess I just don't see what pipe dope would do that 2 tons of
torque on the joint wouldn't. Just kidding really, I do understand that too
much force distorts the threads and probably makes the leak worse.

I don't seem to have this problem betwen two new pipes, only between the old
galvanized and the new one.

Eigenvector wrote:
This is really more of an exasperated shout out than a question but
sometimes you just have to ask.

After having performed many small repairs to my galvanized pipes, I'm
repeatedly thwarted by the threaded connections between the galvanized and
the replacement. Is there a real good trick to making a leak proof
connection between an old pipe and a new one? I've tried using teflon tape
in small amounts on the threads, I've tried reefing down on the joint so
hard the planet tilts sideways in reaction, I've tried cleaning the two
joints so well that you could see my reflection in the threads from a block
away. None of this ever produces a joint that stays leak free. I don't
mean a gusher, I mean drip.........drip............drip...............dr ip.
It does stop dripping, after about 2 weeks when rust forms between the two
pipes.

Everyone talks about pipe dope, I have yet to try that, mostly because after
a while my stubborness overcomes reality and after that all rational thought
is blocked. I guess I just don't see what pipe dope would do that 2 tons of
torque on the joint wouldn't. Just kidding really, I do understand that too
much force distorts the threads and probably makes the leak worse.

I don't seem to have this problem betwen two new pipes, only between the old
galvanized and the new one.



Common problem with old galvanized pipe; the threads deteriorate
so badly that they can't possibly seal.

Pick up a small bottle of Loc-Tite thread sealant.
It makes a permanent seal without any tape or dope.
Apply to bright, clean threads.

Jim

"Eigenvector" wrote in message

Everyone talks about pipe dope, I have yet to try that, mostly because
after a while my stubborness overcomes reality and after that all rational
thought is blocked. I guess I just don't see what pipe dope would do that
2 tons of torque on the joint wouldn't.

Millions of plumbers are wrong.

use tape AND dope. This assures a leak free joint

Bigger question why not end the hassle and upgrade to PEX or copper?

Sure initially its a bit more work, but it was outlast your lifetime!

contiuning repairs to galavinized is just a grand waste of time and
effort

Eigenvector wrote:
This is really more of an exasperated shout out than a question but
sometimes you just have to ask.

After having performed many small repairs to my galvanized pipes, I'm
repeatedly thwarted by the threaded connections between the galvanized and
the replacement. Is there a real good trick to making a leak proof
connection between an old pipe and a new one? I've tried using teflon tape
in small amounts on the threads, I've tried reefing down on the joint so
hard the planet tilts sideways in reaction, I've tried cleaning the two
joints so well that you could see my reflection in the threads from a block
away. None of this ever produces a joint that stays leak free. I don't
mean a gusher, I mean drip.........drip............drip...............dr ip.
It does stop dripping, after about 2 weeks when rust forms between the two
pipes.

Everyone talks about pipe dope, I have yet to try that, mostly because after
a while my stubborness overcomes reality and after that all rational thought
is blocked. I guess I just don't see what pipe dope would do that 2 tons of
torque on the joint wouldn't. Just kidding really, I do understand that too
much force distorts the threads and probably makes the leak worse.

I don't seem to have this problem betwen two new pipes, only between the old
galvanized and the new one.

Thirty years ago I was a big fan of teflon tape. I was jammed up for
time on some plumbing so I hired a pro.

He told me to "stop using that crap (teflon tape) & switch to a good
dope"

He used RectorSeal & so have I even since.

Tons of torque is not the anawer! It won't overcome the imperfections
in the typical threaded galv pipe & fittings.

If you insist on staying with teflon tape use at least 3 complete wraps
maybe even 4 or 5. It will mush out of the way.

cheers
Bob

"Eigenvector" wrote in message
. ..
This is really more of an exasperated shout out than a question but
sometimes you just have to ask.

After having performed many small repairs to my galvanized pipes, I'm
repeatedly thwarted by the threaded connections between the galvanized and
the replacement. Is there a real good trick to making a leak proof
connection between an old pipe and a new one? I've tried using teflon
tape in small amounts on the threads, I've tried reefing down on the joint
so hard the planet tilts sideways in reaction, I've tried cleaning the two
joints so well that you could see my reflection in the threads from a
block away. None of this ever produces a joint that stays leak free. I
don't mean a gusher, I mean
drip.........drip............drip...............dr ip. It does stop
dripping, after about 2 weeks when rust forms between the two pipes.

Everyone talks about pipe dope, I have yet to try that, mostly because
after a while my stubborness overcomes reality and after that all rational
thought is blocked. I guess I just don't see what pipe dope would do that
2 tons of torque on the joint wouldn't. Just kidding really, I do
understand that too much force distorts the threads and probably makes the
leak worse.

I don't seem to have this problem betwen two new pipes, only between the
old galvanized and the new one.

pipe dope lubricates the threads as well as seals so when you torque down on
the pipe it gets way tighter with dope than without.

Plumbers, Pipefitters, and Service Technicians local 72
card number 1465687

The plumber I use uses teflon tape and then pipe dope over the teflon tape.
The pipe dope he uses was white. He is the only plumber I have used that
does it this way. He is also a plumbing inspector. I am assuming he does
this to elimniate any problems.

I've tried using teflon tape in small amounts.

Perhaps that's the problem; put three or four turns on.


Eigenvector wrote:
This is really more of an exasperated shout out than a question but
sometimes you just have to ask.

After having performed many small repairs to my galvanized pipes, I'm
repeatedly thwarted by the threaded connections between the galvanized and
the replacement. Is there a real good trick to making a leak proof
connection between an old pipe and a new one? I've tried using teflon tape
in small amounts on the threads, I've tried reefing down on the joint so
hard the planet tilts sideways in reaction, I've tried cleaning the two
joints so well that you could see my reflection in the threads from a block
away. None of this ever produces a joint that stays leak free. I don't
mean a gusher, I mean drip.........drip............drip...............dr ip.
It does stop dripping, after about 2 weeks when rust forms between the two
pipes.

Everyone talks about pipe dope, I have yet to try that, mostly because after
a while my stubborness overcomes reality and after that all rational thought
is blocked. I guess I just don't see what pipe dope would do that 2 tons of
torque on the joint wouldn't. Just kidding really, I do understand that too
much force distorts the threads and probably makes the leak worse.

I don't seem to have this problem betwen two new pipes, only between the old
galvanized and the new one.

Thanks all for the replies.

Sometimes the solution is "over here" and stubborn me is looking at options
he knows how to use - trying to get that darn square peg into the round
hole. The trick is to overcome my stubborness. Someone mentioned that
"millions of plumbers are wrong" sarcastically, well to that I say, I'm not
a plumber, have never owned a house and don't have a clue what they use to
fix pipes reliably. I'm not born with an innate sense of what works, so I
hear about product x,y, and z try them and see what works. Its only after
trying a few options and dope was the last one on my list - I started to
hunker down disbelieving that NONE of those options work reliably. As
someone else mentioned, the threads are undoubtedly beginning to deteriorate
on the old pipe ends.

Someone else asked why I was repairing the pipes at all. I'm not, I'm
actually replacing sections of the pipes with PEX until I can afford the
downtime required to do the whole system properly. I can't rip out my
bathroom tiling, redo my kitchen cabinet work, or all the other myriad
things that would come from replacing with PEX - so I do it in small steps
and take care of the worst offenders - I'm also teaching myself how to use
it so that if it becomes a REAL problem I'm not totally clueless.

Again I appreciate the replies, sometimes having an entire group shout "USE
IT!" does help.

"Eigenvector" wrote in message
. ..
This is really more of an exasperated shout out than a question but
sometimes you just have to ask.

After having performed many small repairs to my galvanized pipes, I'm
repeatedly thwarted by the threaded connections between the galvanized and
the replacement. Is there a real good trick to making a leak proof
connection between an old pipe and a new one? I've tried using teflon
tape in small amounts on the threads, I've tried reefing down on the joint
so hard the planet tilts sideways in reaction, I've tried cleaning the two
joints so well that you could see my reflection in the threads from a
block away. None of this ever produces a joint that stays leak free. I
don't mean a gusher, I mean
drip.........drip............drip...............dr ip. It does stop
dripping, after about 2 weeks when rust forms between the two pipes.

Everyone talks about pipe dope, I have yet to try that, mostly because
after a while my stubborness overcomes reality and after that all rational
thought is blocked. I guess I just don't see what pipe dope would do that
2 tons of torque on the joint wouldn't. Just kidding really, I do
understand that too much force distorts the threads and probably makes the
leak worse.

I don't seem to have this problem betwen two new pipes, only between the
old galvanized and the new one.

"Eigenvector" wrote in message
. ..
This is really more of an exasperated shout out than a question but
sometimes you just have to ask.
Everyone talks about pipe dope, I have yet to try that, mostly because
after a while my stubborness overcomes reality and after that all rational
thought is blocked. I guess I just don't see what pipe dope would do that
2 tons of torque on the joint wouldn't. Just kidding really, I do
understand that too much force distorts the threads and probably makes the
leak worse.


Now that you have tried it the hard way and easy way many times, may I
suggest you try it the right way.

Buy a bottle of the better pipe dope. Coat the threads. Tighten the pipe
and enjoy life.

Colbyt

I certinally hope your not connecting say copper to galavanized
directly. Dissimiliar metals cause corrosion and fast failure.

All such dissimiliar meatls MUST use a isolation coupling

On Sat, 27 May 2006 17:40:23 -0700, "Eigenvector"
wrote:



Everyone talks about pipe dope, I have yet to try that, mostly because after
a while my stubborness overcomes reality and after that all rational thought
is blocked. I guess I just don't see what pipe dope would do that 2 tons of
torque on the joint wouldn't. Just kidding really, I do understand that too
much force distorts the threads and probably makes the leak worse.

Switch to Rectorseal #5. I did years ago and will not waste my time
using any other dope.
--
Mr.E

wrote in message oups.com...
I certinally hope your not connecting say copper to galavanized
directly. Dissimiliar metals cause corrosion and fast failure.

All such dissimiliar meatls MUST use a isolation coupling


I have been told that a brass fitting between galv. and copper will do the job also. True?

Bob

That's why I'm doing the repair work - the previous owner did in fact do
that. The joint has since blown out under pressure.

wrote in message
oups.com...
I certinally hope your not connecting say copper to galavanized
directly. Dissimiliar metals cause corrosion and fast failure.

All such dissimiliar meatls MUST use a isolation coupling

"Bob" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
oups.com...
I certinally hope your not connecting say copper to galavanized
directly. Dissimiliar metals cause corrosion and fast failure.

All such dissimiliar meatls MUST use a isolation coupling


I have been told that a brass fitting between galv. and copper will do the
job also. True?

Bob


Brass on steel will corrode as well. In fact it's pretty tough to join two
dissimilar metals together without corrosion - although some combinations
corrode much faster than others. I know this through my engineering
training, not practical experience so take it for what you will.

"Eigenvector" wrote in message
...
Thanks all for the replies.

Sometimes the solution is "over here" and stubborn me is looking at
options he knows how to use - trying to get that darn square peg into the
round hole. The trick is to overcome my stubborness. Someone mentioned
that "millions of plumbers are wrong" sarcastically, well to that I say,
I'm not a plumber, have never owned a house and don't have a clue what
they use to fix pipes reliably. I'm not born with an innate sense of what
works, so I hear about product x,y, and z try them and see what works.
Its only after trying a few options and dope was the last one on my list -
I started to hunker down disbelieving that NONE of those options work
reliably. As someone else mentioned, the threads are undoubtedly
beginning to deteriorate on the old pipe ends.

Someone else asked why I was repairing the pipes at all. I'm not, I'm
actually replacing sections of the pipes with PEX until I can afford the
downtime required to do the whole system properly. I can't rip out my
bathroom tiling, redo my kitchen cabinet work, or all the other myriad
things that would come from replacing with PEX - so I do it in small steps
and take care of the worst offenders - I'm also teaching myself how to use
it so that if it becomes a REAL problem I'm not totally clueless.

Again I appreciate the replies, sometimes having an entire group shout
"USE IT!" does help.

"Eigenvector" wrote in message
. ..
This is really more of an exasperated shout out than a question but
sometimes you just have to ask.

After having performed many small repairs to my galvanized pipes, I'm
repeatedly thwarted by the threaded connections between the galvanized
and the replacement. Is there a real good trick to making a leak proof
connection between an old pipe and a new one? I've tried using teflon
tape in small amounts on the threads, I've tried reefing down on the
joint so hard the planet tilts sideways in reaction, I've tried cleaning
the two joints so well that you could see my reflection in the threads
from a block away. None of this ever produces a joint that stays leak
free. I don't mean a gusher, I mean
drip.........drip............drip...............dr ip. It does stop
dripping, after about 2 weeks when rust forms between the two pipes.

Everyone talks about pipe dope, I have yet to try that, mostly because
after a while my stubborness overcomes reality and after that all
rational thought is blocked. I guess I just don't see what pipe dope
would do that 2 tons of torque on the joint wouldn't. Just kidding
really, I do understand that too much force distorts the threads and
probably makes the leak worse.

I don't seem to have this problem betwen two new pipes, only between the
old galvanized and the new one.


It may help to know that standard taper pipe threads are in fact not
intended to seal by themselves. The design allows for a small clearance
between the tops of the threads and the bottoms of the mating thread
grooves. This creates a small spiral leakage path around and along the
threads which must be closed by some type of sealer. For more information,
check up on "dryseal threads", which do seal themselves.

Don Young

Thirty years ago I was a big fan of teflon tape. I was jammed up for
time on some plumbing so I hired a pro.

He told me to "stop using that crap (teflon tape) & switch to a good
dope"

Amen!

I don't recall the brand name but I like to use "teflon filled" pipe dope.
The nice thing about the teflon is that it lubricates the pipe and make it
easily to tighten but dope definitely seals better than tape.

John Gilmer wrote:
Thirty years ago I was a big fan of teflon tape. I was jammed up for
time on some plumbing so I hired a pro.

He told me to "stop using that crap (teflon tape) & switch to a good
dope"

Amen!

I don't recall the brand name but I like to use "teflon filled" pipe dope.
The nice thing about the teflon is that it lubricates the pipe and make it
easily to tighten but dope definitely seals better than tape.


The dope I suggested RectorSeal is teflon filled

RectorSeal® T PLUS 2

cheers
Bob

Everyone talks about pipe dope, I have yet to try that, mostly because after
a while my stubborness overcomes reality and after that all rational thought
is blocked. I guess I just don't see what pipe dope would do that 2 tons of
torque on the joint wouldn't. Just kidding really, I do understand that too
much force distorts the threads and probably makes the leak worse.

Aren't american standard pipe-threads truncated, so that the
peaks don't completely fill the troughs?



I don't seem to have this problem betwen two new pipes, only between the old
galvanized and the new one.

"Goedjn" wrote in message
...


Everyone talks about pipe dope, I have yet to try that, mostly because
after
a while my stubborness overcomes reality and after that all rational
thought
is blocked. I guess I just don't see what pipe dope would do that 2 tons
of
torque on the joint wouldn't. Just kidding really, I do understand that
too
much force distorts the threads and probably makes the leak worse.

Aren't american standard pipe-threads truncated, so that the
peaks don't completely fill the troughs?


They sure are. Only "dryseal" threads are designed for sealing.
Don Young


I don't seem to have this problem betwen two new pipes, only between the
old
galvanized and the new one.

I am having a problem sealing PVC pipe threads--male to female --I use pvc
male adaptors to pvc valves --and more than 50% of the time, the
connection leaks --I have tried pipe dope, rectro-seal, teflon tape, over
tightening, and just barley tightening the fitting (also normal
tightenign) --this is quite annoying since the joint must be redone --and
there is no way of testing it until all is hooked up --any suggestions for
pvc to pvc thread joint leaks??

earlywagon wrote:
I am having a problem sealing PVC pipe threads--male to female --I use pvc
male adaptors to pvc valves --and more than 50% of the time, the
connection leaks --I have tried pipe dope, rectro-seal, teflon tape, over
tightening, and just barley tightening the fitting (also normal
tightenign) --this is quite annoying since the joint must be redone --and
there is no way of testing it until all is hooked up --any suggestions for
pvc to pvc thread joint leaks??

That is strange. I have never had that problem and all I do is a
couple wraps of teflon tape and reasonable tightening.

Harry K

You also need to make sure the wrapping of the tape is counter-clockwise in
order for the tape to work properly. Otherwise you'll just push the tape out
of the way when you tighten the fitting.

Here's an easy trick to consistently do it right.

Hold the fitting in your left hand with the threaded end facing your right
hand.
Start the tape on the top of the thread, from the left side of the thread,
and roll away from you, moving down the outside of the pipe and back up the
inside. If you were to point the end of the pipe away from you, you'd see
that the direction is counter-clockwise.
Keep wrapping in that direction working your way to the end of the pipe
threads. That would be moving from your left to right on the pipe.




"Harry K" wrote in message
ups.com...

earlywagon wrote:
I am having a problem sealing PVC pipe threads--male to female --I use
pvc
male adaptors to pvc valves --and more than 50% of the time, the
connection leaks --I have tried pipe dope, rectro-seal, teflon tape, over
tightening, and just barley tightening the fitting (also normal
tightenign) --this is quite annoying since the joint must be redone --and
there is no way of testing it until all is hooked up --any suggestions
for
pvc to pvc thread joint leaks??

That is strange. I have never had that problem and all I do is a
couple wraps of teflon tape and reasonable tightening.

Harry K

"earlywagon" wrote in
news:fe9b528dffa59ccf81b17aea77625565@homerepairli ve.com:

I am having a problem sealing PVC pipe threads--male to female --I use
pvc male adaptors to pvc valves --and more than 50% of the time, the
connection leaks --I have tried pipe dope, rectro-seal, teflon tape,
over tightening, and just barley tightening the fitting (also normal
tightenign) --this is quite annoying since the joint must be redone
--and there is no way of testing it until all is hooked up --any
suggestions for pvc to pvc thread joint leaks??



Keeping in mind I've had my share of Aw ****s, another tip would be to make
sure the male and female seat is firm, even and flush without you holding
it before you tighten.Trying to correct something misaligned by bending,
twisting, pulling etc then tightening is a prime leak candidate.

I've had pretty good luck with liquid teflon tape as well.