Hello,

I am attempting to install a garage door opener in a new garage. The
instruction manual states that the header bracket must be installed
with 2" clearance from the max height of the garage door.

When i measure the header for the 2" distance it ends up being exactly
even with the top edge of the garage door header. This is the point
where the drywall starts.

I have pictures from when the garage was being built that show there is
a 2x4 running right on top of the header and then a stud directly above
in the center of the door opening.

I was wondering if i need to cut the drywall away to mount directly to
the supports or if i can screw through the dry wall into the supports.
Also, if i should cut a longer section of drywall out, and run a 2x4
across a couple studs at the top of the header.

Thanks for any help!

Pat

wrote:
Hello,

I am attempting to install a garage door opener in a new garage. The
instruction manual states that the header bracket must be installed
with 2" clearance from the max height of the garage door.

When i measure the header for the 2" distance it ends up being exactly
even with the top edge of the garage door header. This is the point
where the drywall starts.

I have pictures from when the garage was being built that show there is
a 2x4 running right on top of the header and then a stud directly above
in the center of the door opening.

I was wondering if i need to cut the drywall away to mount directly to
the supports or if i can screw through the dry wall into the supports.
Also, if i should cut a longer section of drywall out, and run a 2x4
across a couple studs at the top of the header.

Thanks for any help!

Pat


The install instructions that I have seen say the header should be
fastened directly to studs, not over existing drywall. When I did
mine, I cut out the drywall and ran the header across 2 or three studs.

You might get away with going over the drywall, but for the small
additonal work, I'd do it the right way. Interesting question, what
have pro installers done for those that used them?

In article .com, wrote:

I was wondering if i need to cut the drywall away to mount directly to
the supports

Yep.

or if i can screw through the dry wall into the supports.

Not a good idea. Vibrations from normal use of the opener will eventually
(maybe quickly) cause the drywall to crumble, and loosen the bracket.

Also, if i should cut a longer section of drywall out, and run a 2x4
across a couple studs at the top of the header.

That's best IMHO.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Ok, I figured that was the way to go. I plan on adding a 2x4 across
three studs, what size screws should be used to attach to the existing
supports?

Thnaks again!

In article .com, wrote:
Ok, I figured that was the way to go. I plan on adding a 2x4 across
three studs, what size screws should be used to attach to the existing
supports?

16-penny nails will work just fine.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

The 2" you refer to is not the max height of the door but rather the max
travel height of the door. The top section will travel in an arc as the
door goes up, you must note the top most part of the arc and use a pair of
locking pliers to secure the door at that point. Now use a level to mark
the header even with the top of this arc. That is where you measure your 2"
from. Mount the bracket at the centerline at the manufacturer's suggested
minimum height.

You can download installation instructions from the opener maanufacturer's
website.
http://geniecompany.com/GenieCompany.aspx?cid=322

http://liftmaster.com/cw/instr_man/0...=_1346,00.html

After the opener is assembled the rest of the instructions are *basically*
the same.

I prefer to use a 2 x 6 to mount the bracket to.

DO NOT use nails to secure the 2x at the header. In due time the 2x can
possibly work it's way loose. Use lag screws instead of nails and drill a
pilot hole before screwing the 2x or the bracket in place.


Rich
====================================
Garage Door Parts, LLC
973-472-4818
http://www.garagedoorsupply.com
====================================

wrote in message
oups.com...
Hello,

I am attempting to install a garage door opener in a new garage. The
instruction manual states that the header bracket must be installed
with 2" clearance from the max height of the garage door.

When i measure the header for the 2" distance it ends up being exactly
even with the top edge of the garage door header. This is the point
where the drywall starts.

I have pictures from when the garage was being built that show there is
a 2x4 running right on top of the header and then a stud directly above
in the center of the door opening.

I was wondering if i need to cut the drywall away to mount directly to
the supports or if i can screw through the dry wall into the supports.
Also, if i should cut a longer section of drywall out, and run a 2x4
across a couple studs at the top of the header.

Thanks for any help!

Pat

Rich wrote:
I prefer to use a 2 x 6 to mount the bracket to.

DO NOT use nails to secure the 2x at the header. In due time the 2x can
possibly work it's way loose. Use lag screws instead of nails and drill a
pilot hole before screwing the 2x or the bracket in place.


Rich
====================================
Garage Door Parts, LLC
973-472-4818
http://www.garagedoorsupply.com
====================================


Come on now Rich, what are you saying about not using nails? Don't
you know Doug Miller has already spoken and said nails are the proper
way to do it? And we all know Doug knows everything and his word is
final The fact that you are in the business and disagree is
irrelevant LOL!

wrote:
Hello,

I am attempting to install a garage door opener in a new garage. The
instruction manual states that the header bracket must be installed
with 2" clearance from the max height of the garage door.

When i measure the header for the 2" distance it ends up being exactly
even with the top edge of the garage door header. This is the point
where the drywall starts.

I have pictures from when the garage was being built that show there is
a 2x4 running right on top of the header and then a stud directly above
in the center of the door opening.

I was wondering if i need to cut the drywall away to mount directly to
the supports or if i can screw through the dry wall into the supports.
Also, if i should cut a longer section of drywall out, and run a 2x4
across a couple studs at the top of the header.

Thanks for any help!

Pat

Hmmm,
Looks like that garage was built without considering the opener
installation.
Mine had a 2X10 piece vertically placed in the middle to accomodate the
bracket. Definitely remove the drywall which will crumble off in no
time. Running 2x4 above header is also good idea, IMO.

In article . com, wrote:

Come on now Rich, what are you saying about not using nails? Don't
you know Doug Miller has already spoken and said nails are the proper
way to do it? And we all know Doug knows everything and his word is
final The fact that you are in the business and disagree is
irrelevant LOL!

You're obviously still upset over discovering that I was right about grass
growing under maple trees.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Doug Miller wrote:
In article . com, wrote:

Come on now Rich, what are you saying about not using nails? Don't
you know Doug Miller has already spoken and said nails are the proper
way to do it? And we all know Doug knows everything and his word is
final The fact that you are in the business and disagree is
irrelevant LOL!

You're obviously still upset over discovering that I was right about grass
growing under maple trees.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.




No, I just think you believe you're God's gift to this newsgroup and a
know it all who, per the above, obviously doesn't.





g
goda know it all, who obviously, per the above, doesn't

In article .com, wrote:

Doug Miller wrote:
In article . com,
wrote:

Come on now Rich, what are you saying about not using nails? Don't
you know Doug Miller has already spoken and said nails are the proper
way to do it? And we all know Doug knows everything and his word is
final The fact that you are in the business and disagree is
irrelevant LOL!

You're obviously still upset over discovering that I was right about grass
growing under maple trees.


No, I just think you believe you're God's gift to this newsgroup and a
know it all who, per the above, obviously doesn't.

Think what you like. It doesn't change the facts -- one of which is that grass
does grow under maple trees, your ridiculous assertions to the contrary
notwithstanding. Anyone with the ability to recognize a maple tree can see
this for himself; that category apparently does not include yourself. You're
obviously still smarting over having your ignorance pointed out publicly. Try
to get over it -- it's not healthy to carry that much resentment around.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

wrote in message
oups.com...
Ok, I figured that was the way to go. I plan on adding a 2x4 across
three studs, what size screws should be used to attach to the existing
supports?

5/16 lag srews are commonly used for residential openers, you must
determine the length based on your application but typically 2-1/2" long
will suffice.

Rich
====================================
Garage Door Parts, LLC
973-472-4818
http://www.garagedoorsupply.com
====================================

Doug Miller wrote:
In article .com, wrote:

Doug Miller wrote:
In article . com,
wrote:

Come on now Rich, what are you saying about not using nails? Don't
you know Doug Miller has already spoken and said nails are the proper
way to do it? And we all know Doug knows everything and his word is
final The fact that you are in the business and disagree is
irrelevant LOL!

You're obviously still upset over discovering that I was right about grass
growing under maple trees.


No, I just think you believe you're God's gift to this newsgroup and a
know it all who, per the above, obviously doesn't.

Think what you like. It doesn't change the facts -- one of which is that grass
does grow under maple trees, your ridiculous assertions to the contrary
notwithstanding. Anyone with the ability to recognize a maple tree can see
this for himself; that category apparently does not include yourself. You're
obviously still smarting over having your ignorance pointed out publicly. Try
to get over it -- it's not healthy to carry that much resentment around.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.




Look, moron, I gave you the last word on this in the other thread. And
now you are trying to start it up all over again here. Don't you
think people here have heard enough from you on this subject?

It's quite clear that whenever someone offers different advice, whether
it's garage doors or lawn problems, it's never good enough for you.
You think you are the single source for valid input in the newgroup.
Get over it.

As for the garage doors, I'm with Rich, because, unlike you, I think he
knows what he's talking about.