I replaced my holding tank and pressure switch last year. Now when I
run water
I get the following symptoms.....water runs normally for a few minutes
and then
stops for about 30-40 seconds and then restarts. Sometime in that
time, the water
pipes bang several times, then water is okay for a while. This happens
frequently.
Holding tank and switch are set to 30/50. Any ideas much appreciated.
Thnaks,

" wrote:

I replaced my holding tank and pressure switch last year. Now when I
run water
I get the following symptoms.....water runs normally for a few minutes
and then
stops for about 30-40 seconds and then restarts. Sometime in that
time, the water
pipes bang several times, then water is okay for a while. This happens
frequently.
Holding tank and switch are set to 30/50. Any ideas much appreciated.
Thnaks,

Sticking pressure switch or failing pump having startup troubles
allowing the tank to run dry before the pump gets going again.

Pete C.

wrote:

On 2 May 2006 08:14:12 -0700, "
wrote:

I replaced my holding tank and pressure switch last year. Now when I
run water
I get the following symptoms.....water runs normally for a few minutes
and then
stops for about 30-40 seconds and then restarts. Sometime in that
time, the water
pipes bang several times, then water is okay for a while. This happens
frequently.
Holding tank and switch are set to 30/50. Any ideas much appreciated.
Thnaks,


Sounds like you need more air in the tank.

Pretty unlikely. If that were the case you would only see a slight dip
in pressure as the pump kicked in, not a 30-40 second break in flow.

The OP didn't indicate why the tank and switch were replaced, but if it
was due to corrosion from hard water it's quite likely that the pump (I
presume a submersible one since there was no mention of sound of a pump
starting) is choked with deposits and having difficulty spinning up.

Pete C.

The pump is about 8 yrs old, the original was installed in '73......but
now I have
noticed I am getting what sounds like air in the pipes....could this
cause the
water pressure drop and banging pipes? The tank and pressure switch
were
replaced because I had a pinhole in the bottom of the tank, looked like
rust,
it was installed in '73 too.

The pump is about 8 yrs old, the original was installed in '73......but
now I have
noticed I am getting what sounds like air in the pipes....could this
cause the
water pressure drop and banging pipes? The tank and pressure switch
were
replaced because I had a pinhole in the bottom of the tank, looked like
rust,
it was installed in '73 too.

The pump is about 8 yrs old, the original was installed in '73......but
now I have
noticed I am getting what sounds like air in the pipes....could this
cause the
water pressure drop and banging pipes? The tank and pressure switch
were
replaced because I had a pinhole in the bottom of the tank, looked like
rust,
it was installed in '73 too.

" wrote:

The pump is about 8 yrs old, the original was installed in '73......but
now I have
noticed I am getting what sounds like air in the pipes....could this
cause the
water pressure drop and banging pipes? The tank and pressure switch
were
replaced because I had a pinhole in the bottom of the tank, looked like
rust,
it was installed in '73 too.

If you're getting air in the pipes you'd know it as it expands rather
explosively when it sputters out of the faucet. Is this a submersible
pump or a jet pump? A submersible pump shouldn't get air in the lines
unless it's pumping the well dry (or at least below it's intake).

A jet pump would be in the house (or a pump house) and has two lines
going down the well, a suction line and a jet line. A jet pump could
suck air in at a leak anywhere along the suction line and that could
cause it to loose it's prime which would result in a loss of water until
it managed to prime again. A bad ejector / foot valve could also let the
suction line to the pump drain when it's off.

A jet pump would be a bit easier to diagnose due to it's accessibility.
If you run the water while sitting by the pump and tank / pressure
switch you should be able to tell what's happening. Hopefully there is a
pressure gauge to watch, you can hear the pressure switch click and of
course hear the pump run. You should also be able to tell the difference
between normal pump running and a loss of prime.

A submersible pump is a bit simpler since it pumps from the bottom of
the well up a single pipe so there are less potential plumbing problem
spots. Again if you run the water while sitting by the tank / pressure
switch you should be able to get an idea what's going on. If the
pressure drops very low before the pressure switch kicks in check the
switch. If the pressure drops and you hear the switch click on, but the
pressure continues to drop for a time before the pump starts pumping
suspect the pump.

Mineral deposits can clog submersible pumps and make them hard to start,
and they can simply wear out and have trouble. If it's a "three wire"
connection to the pump (three wires in addition to a possible ground)
then there should be a starting capacitor located in the control box
that could be bad.

Pete C.

It's a submersible pump, but I'm in NC where below rainfall.....bty, I
noticed after a good rain my water was a little brownish for a day or
so.
Would a loose clamp/leak cause it to suck air? I have over the years
found 2 leaks and they were repaired (in the pvc line from the pump to
the house). Also, I used to hear the pressure switch turn on and off
faintly in the bathroom, but I don't hear the same sound now.

" wrote:

It's a submersible pump, but I'm in NC where below rainfall.....bty, I
noticed after a good rain my water was a little brownish for a day or
so.

If there is a noticeable change in the water after a rain that would be
a real good reason to get the water tested. They say you should test
wells at least annually anyway.

Would a loose clamp/leak cause it to suck air?

Possibly, but with a submersible it wouldn't cause a stop in water flow
like you indicate since the only plumbing on a submersible pump is on
the output (pressure) side. A slight leak at a fitting going in the
correct direction could let it do the venturi thing and suck in some air
as the water rushes past, but since it's after the pump it can't cause a
loss of prime. You would also notice the very obvious bursting /
sputtering of air in the water line when you're running the faucet.
Knocking of the pipes does not indicate air in the lines, it only
indicates pressure waves like from a pump startup or a valve closing.

I have over the years
found 2 leaks and they were repaired (in the pvc line from the pump to
the house). Also, I used to hear the pressure switch turn on and off
faintly in the bathroom, but I don't hear the same sound now.

Is the difference in sound since you replaced the switch, or just since
you began having the water problems? A new switch could certainly be
quieter than the old switch. If it's a recent occurrence with the new
switch it could indicate a problem with the switch causing it to not
trip solidly.

The switches are designed to "snap" between on and off states to
minimize arcing on the contacts. If it's not "snapping" it could be
arcing, burning the contacts and causing the pump to not start smoothly
or immediately when it should.

You really need to run the water while standing next to the
tank/pressure switch/pressure gauge to see exactly what is happening as
the storage tank is drawn down. There should be a drain connection near
the tank where you could hook a hose up to drain outside. You can start
with the tank "full" or at least at normal max pressure, open the drain
and watch and make notes of the pressure reading when you hear the
switch click, when you see the pressure start to rise again, etc.

Pete C.

You just gave me a beam of light.....when I replaced the tank and
switch last year, the switch (brand new) failed after a week and I had
to replace it. The contacts became off center of each other.
Hopefully it will be something as simple as that as I have to crawl
under my house and belly under ductwork to even get to it. I'll let
you know what it is as soon as I get my nerve/walktalkys together.

" wrote:

You just gave me a beam of light.....when I replaced the tank and
switch last year, the switch (brand new) failed after a week and I had
to replace it. The contacts became off center of each other.
Hopefully it will be something as simple as that as I have to crawl
under my house and belly under ductwork to even get to it. I'll let
you know what it is as soon as I get my nerve/walktalkys together.

Disposable Tyvek jumpsuits are a wonderful thing...

Pete C.