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#1
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Setting brick in dry mortor and sand
I previously installed a brick patio set in sand, and it came out really
good. On my new property, I was thinking of trying something I read in a book. It said you can mix 1 part mortor to 3 parts sand (dry) to lay the bricks on. Then leave 1/2 gaps in the brick and use the same mixture when you fill the gaps in. Then wet it all down, and you have a much more solid surface and the sand won't wash away. The only way I have heard of before is laying a solid surface first and then laying the bricks in wet mortor and then grouting, or the dry lay method. Anyone heard of doing it the way I described? Thanks. |
#2
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Setting brick in dry mortor and sand
It stiffens the mix considerably. Do it if you weren't happy with sand
alone. |
#3
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Setting brick in dry mortor and sand
We did something similar to this.
We placed a 3" "rat slab"; set out brick on that; swept a mix of sand & cem.ent into the joints; sprinkled the surface to set the mix. Some of the joints didn't set properly, but the drive is in good shape 18 years later. TB |
#4
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Setting brick in dry mortor and sand
" wrote in
oups.com: We did something similar to this. We placed a 3" "rat slab"; set out brick on that; swept a mix of sand & cem.ent into the joints; sprinkled the surface to set the mix. Some of the joints didn't set properly, but the drive is in good shape 18 years later. TB What is a rat slab? And how big were your joints? |
#5
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Setting brick in dry mortor and sand
Steve wrote:
I previously installed a brick patio set in sand, and it came out really good. On my new property, I was thinking of trying something I read in a book. It said you can mix 1 part mortor to 3 parts sand (dry) to lay the bricks on. Then leave 1/2 gaps in the brick and use the same mixture when you fill the gaps in. Then wet it all down, and you have a much more solid surface and the sand won't wash away. The only way I have heard of before is laying a solid surface first and then laying the bricks in wet mortor and then grouting, or the dry lay method. Anyone heard of doing it the way I described? Thanks. Personally I like the idea of no cement. The cement makes repairs more difficult. The walk and drive I put in about 35 years ago using no cement in the mix is still there and looking good. While I was living there I did two maintenance jobs on it, one after about two years and again about ten years after that. In both cases it only involved about 5-10% of the total. -- Joseph Meehan Dia duit |
#6
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Setting brick in dry mortor and sand
You have the right idea but use less cement. Maybe a
1 to 5 part sand mix will be plenty hard. Don't plan on doing any easy repairs as this will all set up pretty hard. You don't need such a large gap. Even with a slight gap, sand can be broomed into the joints and when wetted, will never move laterally. You can buy a similar mix pre-mixed. It's called sand topping mix. Would save you a lot of work. thetiler |
#7
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Setting brick in dry mortor and sand
On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 00:31:31 GMT, "Joseph Meehan"
wrote: Steve wrote: I previously installed a brick patio set in sand, and it came out really good. On my new property, I was thinking of trying something I read in a book. It said you can mix 1 part mortor to 3 parts sand (dry) to lay the bricks on. Then leave 1/2 gaps in the brick and use the same mixture when you fill the gaps in. Then wet it all down, and you have a much more solid surface and the sand won't wash away. The only way I have heard of before is laying a solid surface first and then laying the bricks in wet mortor and then grouting, or the dry lay method. Anyone heard of doing it the way I described? Thanks. How I did my patio - 38 years ago. Our soil is just sand so that helps. First I set up the forms using 1X 6 pine. I did this in three 10'X24' sections. I leveled it all with about 2" pitch in 24'. Then I dumped in 10 bags of cement in a section and roto tilled the section. I shoveled the edges in to make them deeper to have a mono- lithic "pour" so the edges would be deeper. Then I leveled it with a board and wet it down with a hose. I kept it damp for a week or more. After letting it sit for about a year, I then put a 1/2" layer dry mix of sand cement down and placed each patio brick on the dry mix. After doing as many as I could reach I tamped them down to get them level using a 2X4. When done I hosed the whole thing off and kept in damp for a few weeks. Now her is the step I missed. I should have put a sealer on the bricks befor brushing in the dry sand cement mix. So it took some acid and a few years of wear to get the dry cement off the brick faces. Anyway it still looks great and have very few cracks. |
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