New stovetop has three wires, Red, Black/Gray, Bare.
Junction box has three wires Red, Black, white.

Old Stovetop had four wires, Red, Black, White, Green

The White and Green were both connected to the white wire coming out of
the junction box. I assume you can hook the bare wire from the stovetop
to the white wire coming out of the junction box

Yes



wrote in message
ups.com...
New stovetop has three wires, Red, Black/Gray, Bare.
Junction box has three wires Red, Black, white.

Old Stovetop had four wires, Red, Black, White, Green

The White and Green were both connected to the white wire coming out of
the junction box. I assume you can hook the bare wire from the stovetop
to the white wire coming out of the junction box

wrote:
New stovetop has three wires, Red, Black/Gray, Bare.
Junction box has three wires Red, Black, white.

Old Stovetop had four wires, Red, Black, White, Green

The White and Green were both connected to the white wire coming out
of the junction box. I assume you can hook the bare wire from the
stovetop to the white wire coming out of the junction box

Do you have a question ??? :-)

White and Green (aka bare) should not be connected anywhere other than
at the breaker box. The old setup was wrong.

Green or bare, assuming they are correctly wired and you should not
assume they were, especially since someone mis-wired the device) are one and
the same. They are the Ground wire. These wires should not carry current
except in the event of a failure.

White is suppose to be the "neutral." This provides an electrical path
from the device to the neutral wire coming in from the power company. It is
NOT a ground wire. It carries current under normal operations and should be
considered hot.

Red and Black are two different "legs".

Normally there is a difference of 240V between the Red and Black. You
can run a 240V device from those two wires. If the device requires 120V it
will use the white (neutral) wire to produce 120V between either the red and
white or the black and white. Some devices have a transformer to produce
120V for things like clocks so they do not need the neutral.

It would be better to view the installation manual that to guess what
those wires are, but it sounds like your new device does not need a 120V
feed and only needs 240V, therefore it does not need the while wire.
Remember that a white wire may be carrying current so be sure to use a
suitable device (like a wire nut) to cap it off as it is not needed.

The above is based on the thought that the "black/gray" wire you are
talking about is really a black wire. If it is not, all bets are off and
please provide a better description. (A black and a gray wire; an black
wire with a gray line, a gray wire with a black like ??? )



--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

Joseph, until recent NEC code changes, the neutral and ground were tied
together on residential cooking and electric clothes dryers. His new cooktop
only has a ground, which he can connect to his white wire which should
connect to the ground-neutral buss of his service panel



"Joseph Meehan" wrote in message
...
wrote:
New stovetop has three wires, Red, Black/Gray, Bare.
Junction box has three wires Red, Black, white.

Old Stovetop had four wires, Red, Black, White, Green

The White and Green were both connected to the white wire coming out
of the junction box. I assume you can hook the bare wire from the
stovetop to the white wire coming out of the junction box

Do you have a question ??? :-)

White and Green (aka bare) should not be connected anywhere other than
at the breaker box. The old setup was wrong.

Green or bare, assuming they are correctly wired and you should not
assume they were, especially since someone mis-wired the device) are one
and the same. They are the Ground wire. These wires should not carry
current except in the event of a failure.

White is suppose to be the "neutral." This provides an electrical path
from the device to the neutral wire coming in from the power company. It
is NOT a ground wire. It carries current under normal operations and
should be considered hot.

Red and Black are two different "legs".

Normally there is a difference of 240V between the Red and Black. You
can run a 240V device from those two wires. If the device requires 120V
it will use the white (neutral) wire to produce 120V between either the
red and white or the black and white. Some devices have a transformer to
produce 120V for things like clocks so they do not need the neutral.

It would be better to view the installation manual that to guess what
those wires are, but it sounds like your new device does not need a 120V
feed and only needs 240V, therefore it does not need the while wire.
Remember that a white wire may be carrying current so be sure to use a
suitable device (like a wire nut) to cap it off as it is not needed.

The above is based on the thought that the "black/gray" wire you are
talking about is really a black wire. If it is not, all bets are off and
please provide a better description. (A black and a gray wire; an black
wire with a gray line, a gray wire with a black like ??? )



--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit