I have a small pipe that leaks. It is aatached to an out door faucet and
froze over the winter.
It lloks like a 3/8' pipe with an adapter into a 1/2". Not sure how the
configuration works. It looks like the 1/2" pipe is soldered into the 1/2
adapter but the 3/8 end of the adapter looks like it isn't soldered. Is this
possible? How can I approach this?
I have enclosed a link to a picture of the leaking pipe.
http://www.gs2websolutions.com/steve/stee-005.jpg
thanx

web wrote:
I have a small pipe that leaks. It is aatached to an out door faucet
and froze over the winter.
It lloks like a 3/8' pipe with an adapter into a 1/2". Not sure how
the configuration works. It looks like the 1/2" pipe is soldered into
the 1/2 adapter but the 3/8 end of the adapter looks like it isn't
soldered. Is this possible? How can I approach this?
I have enclosed a link to a picture of the leaking pipe.
http://www.gs2websolutions.com/steve/stee-005.jpg
thanx

Get a new freeze proof hydrant and attach it to the good pipe. I think
I would just cut the supply line and solder the new hydrant or and extension
attached to the new hydrant on. If you don't like the idea of solder work,
you can try unscrewing the hydrant and hope the solder joint does not crack
in the process.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

someone used that threaded nut as a union and soldered it in place.
i would heat the nut with propane and pull it apart or just cut it off
just left of the nut ,,discard everthing to the right of the nut .get a
new peice of straight copper and a union and reassemble by soldering
back together...guys at the hardware store can help if you take the old
parts in..

http://www.minibite.com/america/malone.htm

web wrote:
I have a small pipe that leaks. It is aatached to an out door faucet and
froze over the winter.
It lloks like a 3/8' pipe with an adapter into a 1/2". Not sure how the
configuration works. It looks like the 1/2" pipe is soldered into the 1/2
adapter but the 3/8 end of the adapter looks like it isn't soldered. Is this
possible? How can I approach this?
I have enclosed a link to a picture of the leaking pipe.
http://www.gs2websolutions.com/steve/stee-005.jpg
thanx


That looks like a freeze proof sill cock soldered onto a 1/2 inch
copper water pipe. Since you said it was an outdoor faucet, that makes
sense. I'll bet you left a hose connected to it so it could not drain,
so it froze? And the part that is leaking is between the solder joint
and the outside wall?

If that's the case, then what you need to do is turn off the water,
open the leaking faucet, and then find a lower drain valve, faucet,
etc, somewhere in the water system. Open that and let water drain out
of the system. You need to get the water out of the solder joint area
so that you can heat it.

Using a torch, unsolder the joint. Having someone else to help pull
slash/rotate the sill cock will help. While the end of the 1/2" pipe
is still hot, wipe it off with a slightly damp cloth to remove the
excess solder. Buy a new sill cock of the correct length and solder
it in.

If it's impossible to drain the water easily, or hard to get at the
solder joint, etc., another approach is to cut off the 1/2 pipe with a
tubing cutter somewhere aft of the solder joint. Then use a coupling
and a new short piece of copper pipe to replumb it back in with the
sill cock.

wrote:
Joseph Meehan wrote:
web wrote:
I have a small pipe that leaks. It is aatached to an out door faucet
and froze over the winter.
It lloks like a 3/8' pipe with an adapter into a 1/2". Not sure how
the configuration works. It looks like the 1/2" pipe is soldered
into the 1/2 adapter but the 3/8 end of the adapter looks like it
isn't soldered. Is this possible? How can I approach this?
I have enclosed a link to a picture of the leaking pipe.
http://www.gs2websolutions.com/steve/stee-005.jpg
thanx

Get a new freeze proof hydrant and attach it to the good pipe.
I think I would just cut the supply line and solder the new hydrant
or and extension attached to the new hydrant on. If you don't like
the idea of solder work, you can try unscrewing the hydrant and hope
the solder joint does not crack in the process.

--

He can't unscrew the sill cock, because it's soldered on. If you look
at the pics,

You could be right, about all I could make out with my old eyes was the
ballooned out pipe where it froze.

you will see male threads on the outside that are unused.
These come with male threads on the outside and a solder fitting on
the inside, so they can be used either way. This one is soldered in.





Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

I was late getting the hose off this year andit froze in december.
I am correct to say that the fitting wasn't put on propery? can i use a a
sill cock that scews into the current one or do i need to sillcock fittings?
thanx
wrote in message
oups.com...

web wrote:
I have a small pipe that leaks. It is aatached to an out door faucet and
froze over the winter.
It lloks like a 3/8' pipe with an adapter into a 1/2". Not sure how the
configuration works. It looks like the 1/2" pipe is soldered into the 1/2
adapter but the 3/8 end of the adapter looks like it isn't soldered. Is
this
possible? How can I approach this?
I have enclosed a link to a picture of the leaking pipe.
http://www.gs2websolutions.com/steve/stee-005.jpg
thanx


That looks like a freeze proof sill cock soldered onto a 1/2 inch
copper water pipe. Since you said it was an outdoor faucet, that makes
sense. I'll bet you left a hose connected to it so it could not drain,
so it froze? And the part that is leaking is between the solder joint
and the outside wall?

If that's the case, then what you need to do is turn off the water,
open the leaking faucet, and then find a lower drain valve, faucet,
etc, somewhere in the water system. Open that and let water drain out
of the system. You need to get the water out of the solder joint area
so that you can heat it.

Using a torch, unsolder the joint. Having someone else to help pull
slash/rotate the sill cock will help. While the end of the 1/2" pipe
is still hot, wipe it off with a slightly damp cloth to remove the
excess solder. Buy a new sill cock of the correct length and solder
it in.

If it's impossible to drain the water easily, or hard to get at the
solder joint, etc., another approach is to cut off the 1/2 pipe with a
tubing cutter somewhere aft of the solder joint. Then use a coupling
and a new short piece of copper pipe to replumb it back in with the
sill cock.

"web" sjwNOSPAMatripnet.com wrote in message
...
I was late getting the hose off this year andit froze in december.
I am correct to say that the fitting wasn't put on propery? can i use a a
sill cock that scews into the current one or do i need to sillcock
fittings?
thanx
wrote in message
oups.com...


It was installed correctly. As others have said, the sillcock is a
universal type with sweat and pipe thread options. You can locate another
sillcock of the same design and and size and solder it in place as the
original or solder a female adapter to the end of the copper and install the
sillcock as you would any other threaded pipe, allowing for clearance and
the slight gain in length from using the female adapter.

Bill