Hi all,

About a month ago, I posted a question asking what might make one of my
garage doors be off center. All of the answers I got said that a weak spring on
1 side might do that. Well, I got 2 new matched springs yesterday, and installed
them---same problem--the door is rubbing against 1 of the tracks as it goes up.
I tightened the cable on that side to give it more tension, but no difference. I
then switched the springs, left to right, and still no difference.

All of the rollers are free, both to rotate and to slide in or out. The door
is not warped, and the tracks still look perfect--not bent or warped. I can push
the door sideways and center it, but as soon as it starts to move, it slides to
1 side. What could cause this problem, beside a weak spring ??? My other garage
door is perfectly centered with no problems.


RON.
================================================== ======
Remove the ZZZ from my E-mail address to send me E-mail.

Ron in NY wrote:
Hi all,

About a month ago, I posted a question asking what might make one of my
garage doors be off center. All of the answers I got said that a weak spring on
1 side might do that. Well, I got 2 new matched springs yesterday, and installed
them---same problem--the door is rubbing against 1 of the tracks as it goes up.
I tightened the cable on that side to give it more tension, but no difference. I
then switched the springs, left to right, and still no difference.

All of the rollers are free, both to rotate and to slide in or out. The door
is not warped, and the tracks still look perfect--not bent or warped. I can push
the door sideways and center it, but as soon as it starts to move, it slides to
1 side. What could cause this problem, beside a weak spring ??? My other garage
door is perfectly centered with no problems.


RON.
================================================== ======
Remove the ZZZ from my E-mail address to send me E-mail.


You don't state whether the garage door is extension or torsion spring
style, but either way I think the problem is the same. The springs may
be new but it sounds like they are not set the same on tension. If you
have extension springs you need to adjust the length of the cables that
run from the spring end, through the pulleys, to the bottom of the
door. The side that rubs against the rail needs to be made longer, as
it is too tight right now. I put an extra length of chain on mine with
a turnbuckle installed on each side for extra fine-adjustment
capabilities. Start by moving a link at a time looser, then when you
get down to being close, the turnbuckle will allow for smaller
adjustments. Open and close the door after each adjustment is made, by
hand, do not use the electric opener. The door should hang level at
approximately halfway up, with the electric opener disconnected.

If you have torsion springs then the adjustment on the side that is
rubbing is to tight, close the garage door and back that side off a
half turn at a time until it works correctly. ie: back off half a turn,
tighten spring to rod, try garage door up and down, wash, rinse,
repeat. BE CAREFUL AND ONLY ADJUST TORSION SPRINGS IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOU
ARE DOING! It can be done but it is dangerous if your not careful.

Jim

Ron in NY wrote:
Hi all,

About a month ago, I posted a question asking what might make one
of my garage doors be off center. All of the answers I got said that
a weak spring on 1 side might do that. Well, I got 2 new matched
springs yesterday, and installed them---same problem--the door is
rubbing against 1 of the tracks as it goes up. I tightened the cable
on that side to give it more tension, but no difference. I then
switched the springs, left to right, and still no difference.

All of the rollers are free, both to rotate and to slide in or
out. The door is not warped, and the tracks still look perfect--not
bent or warped. I can push the door sideways and center it, but as
soon as it starts to move, it slides to 1 side. What could cause this
problem, beside a weak spring ??? My other garage door is perfectly
centered with no problems.


RON.
================================================== ======
Remove the ZZZ from my E-mail address to send me E-mail.

I agree with Jim. Springs need to be adjusted - balanced. I suspect
this is the problem. As they age it is possible that they don't stretch the
same and require a re-balance. You don't need to replace the springs unless
they are greatly out of spec or don't match.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

On Tue, 18 Apr 2006 03:16:45 GMT, (Ron in
NY) wrote:

Hi all,

About a month ago, I posted a question asking what might make one of my
garage doors be off center. All of the answers I got said that a weak spring on
1 side might do that. Well, I got 2 new matched springs yesterday, and installed
them---same problem--the door is rubbing against 1 of the tracks as it goes up.
I tightened the cable on that side to give it more tension, but no difference. I
then switched the springs, left to right, and still no difference.

All of the rollers are free, both to rotate and to slide in or out. The door
is not warped, and the tracks still look perfect--not bent or warped. I can push

The tracks "look perfect"? WHat does that mean?
They need to be straight, parallel to each other,
perpendicular to the door, and perfectly centered
around the hoist(s) and springs/cables. The vertical
part of the track has to actually be vertical, too.

Ron in NY wrote:

Hi all,

About a month ago, I posted a question asking what might make one of my
garage doors be off center. All of the answers I got said that a weak spring on
1 side might do that. Well, I got 2 new matched springs yesterday, and installed
them---same problem--the door is rubbing against 1 of the tracks as it goes up.
I tightened the cable on that side to give it more tension, but no difference. I
then switched the springs, left to right, and still no difference.

All of the rollers are free, both to rotate and to slide in or out. The door
is not warped, and the tracks still look perfect--not bent or warped. I can push
the door sideways and center it, but as soon as it starts to move, it slides to
1 side. What could cause this problem, beside a weak spring ??? My other garage
door is perfectly centered with no problems.


RON.
================================================== ======
Remove the ZZZ from my E-mail address to send me E-mail.

How badly is your house tilted to one side, Ron?

Just kidding, but If diddling with the spring tensions isn't helping at
all I agree it's time to check the orientation and parrallelism of the
rails, you may find some suprising differences there.

HTH,

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented."

"Just Jim" wrote:


You don't state whether the garage door is extension or torsion spring
style, but either way I think the problem is the same. The springs may
be new but it sounds like they are not set the same on tension. If you
have extension springs you need to adjust the length of the cables that
run from the spring end, through the pulleys, to the bottom of the
door. The side that rubs against the rail needs to be made longer, as
it is too tight right now.
================================================== ============
Hi Jim,

They are extension springs. Are you sure that I have to make the cable on
the side that rubs "longer" ??? If I pull up on that cable, the door shifts
over and gets closer to center. It seems to me that I would have to give that
side more tension by shortening that cable.

Someone else answered me and said that with the electric operator disconnected,
and the door half way up, make sure that the door sits level---It does. Another
answer said that the tracks have to be parallel with each other---They are. From
the bottom, all the way to the other end, there is no more than 1/8" difference
left to right. This has me totally baffled.


RON
================================================== ======
Remove the ZZZ from my E-mail address to send me E-mail.

Ron in NY wrote:

Hi Jim,

They are extension springs. Are you sure that I have to make the cable on
the side that rubs "longer" ??? If I pull up on that cable, the door shifts
over and gets closer to center. It seems to me that I would have to give that
side more tension by shortening that cable.

Someone else answered me and said that with the electric operator disconnected,
and the door half way up, make sure that the door sits level---It does. Another
answer said that the tracks have to be parallel with each other---They are. From
the bottom, all the way to the other end, there is no more than 1/8" difference
left to right. This has me totally baffled.


RON
================================================== ======

Ron-

Ok, extension springs I can help you out on, I just bought a new
house that has them on the garage and spent a whole afternoon dialing
them in. Now, my garage door also sits level halfway up, but it will
still occasionally bind going up or down. I don't think I have them
dialed in exactly correct yet. So yours could be the same way. As long
as the tracks are ok (square, parallel, etc...) then it has to be in
the springs. Now, as far as which side they are rubbing on, that was my
fault for not being more detailed. If the door is rubbing at the top,
then you would have to tighten the spring on the side that rubs, or
loosen the opposite side. If it rubs on the bottom, then that side
needs to be looser or the opposite side tighter. You just kind of have
to play with them until you can get the door to sit still about halfway
up and go up and down freely. Getting it to ride up and down ok and
still have the correct amount of tension on both sides is a bit of a
tricky game, but it can be done. While I was adjusting mine I worried
more about the "moving freely" part first, because once you get it to
ride centered, you can always adjust the tension by adding/subtracting
a link on the chain on both sides at the same time. On my door the
stock chains were too short so I ended up having to by extra length of
chain, a coupler, and I put a turnbuckle in on each side. Then I could
have the fine-adjust that makes dialing this in a little easier. You
may need to do that, depending on how yours is set up.

As a good starting point, do this: Close the door all the way, and
leave it shut. Measure the length of chain and cable between the wall
and the beginning of the spring on each side. Raise the door and adjust
the chain length until you have each side the same. When the door is
shut and you have each measurement as close to the other as you can,
you have reached a decent place to start. Now you can adjust, one link
at a time, until you get the door to ride right. After you get it to
move centered, then worry about the amount of tension on the springs.
If you need any more help feel free to ask and I'll try and help some
more.


--
Jim
80 XLH1000 (Ours)
04 CR250 (Mine)
05 CRF230F (Hers)

I don't recall your saying the door was cocked in the opening,
off more to one side at the top than the bottom, so I wonder:
Since most things seem to be OK, is the opener pulling it to
the side maybe? If the opener is off center, or fastened to the
door offcenter, it might tend to pull the door to one side. Or,
Are the springs possible pulling it to one side? If they're
not perfectly in line with the tracks, that might pull the door
to one side.

The tracks are parallel, but ... are they "level" to each other?
If one were high and the other low, as in vertically, the door
would migrate to one side in favor of the other.
You can't just measure floor to trach height; the floor likely
slopes. So you have to suspend a string-level or board across
the two tracks with a level on it to check it.
Also, same situation for the bends that transition from
vertical to near horizontal; they should be equal also.
You might get a hint by looking to see if there are marks
where one or more bolts slipped in the assembly slot, or even
loose bolts that position the tracks.

BTW, it's not unusual in my experience for doors to slither
slightly to one side most of the time, especially older doors.
Often it won't result in any binding, squeaking/squealing or
jamming though, on properly adjusted doors and yearly maintenance
usually brings things back.
You might check the individual rollers too, to be sure one
hasn't developed flats somehow and turns roughly or drags too
hard. And that they are true and not visibly shifted at an
angle. Longshot, but ...

HTH,
Pop


"Ron in NY" wrote in message
...
"Just Jim" wrote:


You don't state whether the garage door is extension or torsion
spring
style, but either way I think the problem is the same. The
springs may
be new but it sounds like they are not set the same on tension.
If you
have extension springs you need to adjust the length of the
cables that
run from the spring end, through the pulleys, to the bottom of
the
door. The side that rubs against the rail needs to be made
longer, as
it is too tight right now.
================================================== ============
Hi Jim,

They are extension springs. Are you sure that I have to
make the cable on
the side that rubs "longer" ??? If I pull up on that cable,
the door shifts
over and gets closer to center. It seems to me that I would
have to give that
side more tension by shortening that cable.

Someone else answered me and said that with the electric
operator disconnected,
and the door half way up, make sure that the door sits
level---It does. Another
answer said that the tracks have to be parallel with each
other---They are. From
the bottom, all the way to the other end, there is no more than
1/8" difference
left to right. This has me totally baffled.



RON
================================================== ======
Remove the ZZZ from my E-mail address to send me E-mail.

Someone else answered me and said that with the electric operator disconnected,
and the door half way up, make sure that the door sits level---It does. Another
answer said that the tracks have to be parallel with each other---They are. From
the bottom, all the way to the other end, there is no more than 1/8" difference
left to right. This has me totally baffled.

Merely parallel to each other isn't good enough. They also have to
be vertical, and centered, and parallel to the cables. Move the cable
that's pulling on the binding side of the door about 4" closer to the
center.

I don't suppose you'd consider posting a picture of the offending
door, tracks and hoist somewhere?

You have made sure the distance apart is the same, but it may not be perfectly perpendicular! You need to measure diagonals to make sure they are exactly the same.

--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...er-107294-.htm

Steve C writes:

You have made sure the distance apart is the same, but it may not be
perfectly perpendicular! You need to measure diagonals to make sure
they are exactly the same.

You really need to look at the dates on the messages you are replying
to. That was 14 years ago.

--
Dan Espen

Steve C wrote

You have made sure the distance apart is the same, but it may not be
perfectly perpendicular! You need to measure diagonals to make sure they
are exactly the same.

After 14 years its unlikely that he is still waiting for you to tell him how
to fix it.

--
For full context, visit
https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...er-107294-.htm

On Tue, 19 Jan 2021 13:27:34 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:

After 14 years its unlikely that he is still waiting for you to tell him how
to fix it.

Look at it positively, you self-important sociopathic senile asshole: it
allows you to post more of your sick self-opinionated senile bull****!

--
addressing nym-shifting senile Rodent:
"You on the other hand are a heavyweight bull****ter who demonstrates
his particular prowess at it every day."
MID: