Looking to buy some whitewash to coat a fence. Anybody have a good source?
Thanks,
mc

"Mike Cummins" wrote in message
...
Looking to buy some whitewash to coat a fence. Anybody have a good
source?
Thanks,
mc

Stolen from the first hit on Google:

WHITEWASH MATERIALS:
Salt: Common Sodium Chloride
Alum: Powdered, Common Potash Aluminum
Molasses: Unsulfured, Light Brown/Clear
Water: Potable
Quick Lime if you want to "slack" it, or Non Caustic, Hydrated Lime if you
don't want to "slack" it
Optional: Type I or Type II Portland Cement
MIX:

A. 12 pounds salt, 6 ounces alum, and 1 quart molasses dissolved in 1.5
gallons water.

B. 50 pounds (1 sack) quick lime, mix with 5 gallons hot water. Allow to
stand for 24 hours. Mix Parts "A" & "B" for a brushable consistency.

NOTES: Use this formula at your own risk. White, non-staining, Type I or
Type II Portland Cement can be substituted for up to ten percent of the lime
material to produce a more durable coating. Ordinary lime, or quick lime, is
caustic. To get the lime you want for whitewash you have to "slack" the
quick lime with hot water at least overnight. The result of slacking is
hydrated lime, or Ca(OH2). But if the slacking is not complete or thorough
it can burn your skin. If you are worried about incomplete slacking, buy
hydrated lime instead of quick lime. Regular garden lime, which is really
ground limestone, is of no use.

Any good garden supply will have the ingredients.

There is a reason people seldom use whitewash any more- paint is cheap, and
works a lot better.

aem sends....

My father once bought an antebellum house that had a second
story added in the late 1800's. The entire house had been
covered in stucco just after the turn of the century. It
had never been whitewashed, and just the trim and windows
had been painted. I do not know the source for the formula
he used, but I assure you that when he was done, the house
was the whitest one in town and the whitewash did not yellow
over the years. When it began to show some streaking, after
about 10-12 years, a new coat of whitewash held it for
another 10-12 years.

Preparation: Make sure all stucco is tight. Wash with a
pressure washer. If horribly dirty, brush on TSP solution,
then wash with pressure washer.

Mix white Portland cement to a a thick brushing consistency
and apply as a first coat.

For the top coat:

12 bananas, diced and then mashed. Include skins.
Nowadays, a blender with a little water would work well for
this.

4-5# table salt

10# paraffin, shaved or cut in to cubes less than 1/2"

50# unslaked lime. Do NOT us quicklime

6-7 gallons hot water

Mix banana mash, shaved paraffin, salt and lime in large tub
or 30 gallon drum with head cut out.

Pour in the hot water slowly, stirring. Be prepared to step
back when lime begins to hydrate and boil.

After boiling slows, keep stirring to obtain smooth mixture
and thin with more water to a thick paint-like consistency.
Cover with a tarp and let set for a couple weeks. After a
few days, gently add a couple quarts of water to cover the
top of the mixture. The water will float on the mixture.
Do not stir.

Stir well before using. You can apply with a brush or large
tip bore airless gun if you strain out any pieces of banana
skin. The mixture will go on slightly yellowish, but will
whiten within a few days. Rain will renew the whiteness.


Mark
ameijers wrote:
"Mike Cummins" wrote in message
...
Looking to buy some whitewash to coat a fence. Anybody have a good
source?
Thanks,
mc

Stolen from the first hit on Google:

WHITEWASH MATERIALS:
Salt: Common Sodium Chloride
Alum: Powdered, Common Potash Aluminum
Molasses: Unsulfured, Light Brown/Clear
Water: Potable
Quick Lime if you want to "slack" it, or Non Caustic, Hydrated Lime if you
don't want to "slack" it
Optional: Type I or Type II Portland Cement
MIX:

A. 12 pounds salt, 6 ounces alum, and 1 quart molasses dissolved in 1.5
gallons water.

B. 50 pounds (1 sack) quick lime, mix with 5 gallons hot water. Allow to
stand for 24 hours. Mix Parts "A" & "B" for a brushable consistency.

NOTES: Use this formula at your own risk. White, non-staining, Type I or
Type II Portland Cement can be substituted for up to ten percent of the lime
material to produce a more durable coating. Ordinary lime, or quick lime, is
caustic. To get the lime you want for whitewash you have to "slack" the
quick lime with hot water at least overnight. The result of slacking is
hydrated lime, or Ca(OH2). But if the slacking is not complete or thorough
it can burn your skin. If you are worried about incomplete slacking, buy
hydrated lime instead of quick lime. Regular garden lime, which is really
ground limestone, is of no use.

Any good garden supply will have the ingredients.

There is a reason people seldom use whitewash any more- paint is cheap, and
works a lot better.

aem sends....

DONT whitewash something that was never whitewashed before!

Its nearly impossible to get paint or stain to stick to something that
was previously whitewashed

wrote:
DONT whitewash something that was never whitewashed before!

Its nearly impossible to get paint or stain to stick to something that
was previously whitewashed

Your advice is good, but a bit broad based. In the case of
this house, my father wanted a traditional white wash coat
that would never peel. He wanted a white stucco house and
paint was not considered a good coating then for stucco.

Mark

Your advice is good, but a bit broad based. In the case of
this house, my father wanted a traditional white wash coat
that would never peel. He wanted a white stucco house and
paint was not considered a good coating then for stucco.

Mark


My comment was more for someone else since paint / stain today is
cheap and works well

Heh, I just love old family recipes like those. good luck!