When my home was built 15 years ago, there was some ugly taping on
the ceiling in the upstairs hallway. I pointed it out at the final
inspection, and it was 'repaired'. I'm now in the process of
painting and have decided to fix it 'correctly'. A bit of mud and a
little sanding should do it, but the ceiling has 2 coats of latex
paint that I'm aware of. Can I simply mud on top of the latex paint?
Or should I do some sort of surface preparation, first? Any other
considerations?

Never had a problem with mud over latex paint, in fact, it is common to fix
problems that show up after the first coat of paint.

"Mike Hartigan" wrote in message
.net...
When my home was built 15 years ago, there was some ugly taping on
the ceiling in the upstairs hallway. I pointed it out at the final
inspection, and it was 'repaired'. I'm now in the process of
painting and have decided to fix it 'correctly'. A bit of mud and a
little sanding should do it, but the ceiling has 2 coats of latex
paint that I'm aware of. Can I simply mud on top of the latex paint?
Or should I do some sort of surface preparation, first? Any other
considerations?

I agree. Was a plasterer by trade and that's how we did our touch ups and
renos. Never had a problem.

"EXT" etonks@sunstormADD-DOT-COM wrote in message
anews.com...
Never had a problem with mud over latex paint, in fact, it is common to
fix
problems that show up after the first coat of paint.

"Mike Hartigan" wrote in message
.net...
When my home was built 15 years ago, there was some ugly taping on
the ceiling in the upstairs hallway. I pointed it out at the final
inspection, and it was 'repaired'. I'm now in the process of
painting and have decided to fix it 'correctly'. A bit of mud and a
little sanding should do it, but the ceiling has 2 coats of latex
paint that I'm aware of. Can I simply mud on top of the latex paint?
Or should I do some sort of surface preparation, first? Any other
considerations?

Mike Hartigan wrote:
When my home was built 15 years ago, there was some ugly taping on
the ceiling in the upstairs hallway. I pointed it out at the final
inspection, and it was 'repaired'. I'm now in the process of
painting and have decided to fix it 'correctly'. A bit of mud and a
little sanding should do it, but the ceiling has 2 coats of latex
paint that I'm aware of. Can I simply mud on top of the latex paint?
Or should I do some sort of surface preparation, first? Any other
considerations?

Joint compound will stick to glass until you scrape it off or it gets
wet. It'll certainly stick to the paint.

I'm waging a war against drywall sanding. Unless you gob the stuff on
there's little need to sand. Don't go into it expecting that you will
have to sand. You _can_ do it without sanding.

Use progressively thinner coats, scrape off the goobers and ridges
before the next coat, don't try to get it perfect on anything prior to
the last coat, and use a spray bottle in your other hand to spritz the
mud to keep it workable if it starts drying too fast.

R

On Mon, 6 Mar 2006 21:06:12 -0600, Mike Hartigan
wrote:

When my home was built 15 years ago, there was some ugly taping on
the ceiling in the upstairs hallway. I pointed it out at the final
inspection, and it was 'repaired'. I'm now in the process of
painting and have decided to fix it 'correctly'. A bit of mud and a
little sanding should do it, but the ceiling has 2 coats of latex
paint that I'm aware of. Can I simply mud on top of the latex paint?
Or should I do some sort of surface preparation, first? Any other
considerations?


Yes, it will be fine.

You might consider a fine wet sponge rather than sanding.

In article ,
says...
On Mon, 6 Mar 2006 21:06:12 -0600, Mike Hartigan
wrote:

When my home was built 15 years ago, there was some ugly taping on
the ceiling in the upstairs hallway. I pointed it out at the final
inspection, and it was 'repaired'. I'm now in the process of
painting and have decided to fix it 'correctly'. A bit of mud and a
little sanding should do it, but the ceiling has 2 coats of latex
paint that I'm aware of. Can I simply mud on top of the latex paint?
Or should I do some sort of surface preparation, first? Any other
considerations?


Yes, it will be fine.

You might consider a fine wet sponge rather than sanding.

Alas, my technique, while not bad, does not quite rise to the level
of no-sanding. It's not a biggie, though. Maybe a bit of touch up
around the edges - no real mess to worry about. And yes, I tend to
use a wet sponge for small areas like this. My big concern, though,
was the paint and it appears that I got the answer I was hoping for.
Thanks to all who responded.

-Mike

If it's a rough surface it may be tough but you can put several coats on
wiping it tight till the joints dissapear
"Mike Hartigan" wrote in message
.net...
When my home was built 15 years ago, there was some ugly taping on
the ceiling in the upstairs hallway. I pointed it out at the final
inspection, and it was 'repaired'. I'm now in the process of
painting and have decided to fix it 'correctly'. A bit of mud and a
little sanding should do it, but the ceiling has 2 coats of latex
paint that I'm aware of. Can I simply mud on top of the latex paint?
Or should I do some sort of surface preparation, first? Any other
considerations?

On Mon, 6 Mar 2006 21:06:12 -0600, Mike Hartigan wrote:

When my home was built 15 years ago, there was some ugly taping on
the ceiling in the upstairs hallway. I pointed it out at the final
inspection, and it was 'repaired'. I'm now in the process of
painting and have decided to fix it 'correctly'. A bit of mud and a
little sanding should do it, but the ceiling has 2 coats of latex
paint that I'm aware of. Can I simply mud on top of the latex paint?
Or should I do some sort of surface preparation, first? Any other
considerations?

As was pointed out, it sticks well. However, I have found that the
premixed stuff (non-setting compound) looses it feathering with painting
with a roller and the repair stands out. I have never had this problem
with the powder (setting type) when painting with a roller. It is more
work mixing it and cleaning it up completely in a timely manner, but it
goes on much easier and smoother than the stuff you get in a bucket. I use
the 45 minute stuff, but being inexperienced you may want the 90 minute
type. It is also much more difficult to sand, but I rarely need to do
anything more than a quick swipe or 2 to clean it up.

Mike D.

Mike Dobony wrote:

As was pointed out, it sticks well. However, I have found that the
premixed stuff (non-setting compound) looses it feathering with painting
with a roller and the repair stands out.

Damp sponge the edges.

I have never had this problem
with the powder (setting type) when painting with a roller. It is more
work mixing it and cleaning it up completely in a timely manner, but it
goes on much easier and smoother than the stuff you get in a bucket. I use
the 45 minute stuff, but being inexperienced you may want the 90 minute
type. It is also much more difficult to sand, but I rarely need to do
anything more than a quick swipe or 2 to clean it up.

Use Easy Sand instead of Durabond.

R