I am going to be performing a major renovation of my house and for the kitchen,
I intend on doing some extreme overkill on the outlets. What I intend on
having is 2 split duplex outlets and a single switched outlet for every 4
feet of counter space. That's right, there will be a triple gang box containing
4 unswitched outlets and 1 switched outlet and each outlet will have a
separate breaker for a total of 5 circuits.

I know that I can easily obtain 2-pole GFCI breakers and a 1 pole GFCI breaker
as well. I also know that the split duplex outlets must be on a 2-pole GFCI
breaker in order for the GFCI to work properly with a shared neutral. But
I forsee a problem in that a total of 3 breakers (2 double polled and 1
single polled) must be turned off in order to remove all power from each
triple gang box. I don't know if the NEC considers this a safety hazard, but I
do. Is it possible to link 5 breakers together so that if any of the 5 breakers
trip, then all 5 breakers will trip? If so, how would I do that?

What I did was install more double outlets and boxes. This way each 2
feet of counter space has a 4 slot receptable in my case all
unswitched. each dual gang box got its own dedicated breaker on a 20
amp circuit. this minimizes cords draped across counters. its easy to
know what breaker tripped too, and each box has its own on site GFCI,
so its easy to reset if something trips.

I didnt like the idea of multiple breakers powering a single box....

futher I bought premium 20 amp GFCIs and receptables the back wired
kind with screws/ My kitchen now has 5 seperate breakers powering
convenience outlets. and seperate breakers for stove, dishwasher,
fridge, microwave kitchen light and disposal.

I figured overkill would nean I didnt have to do it again. makes
troubleshooting easy too

What I did was install more double outlets and boxes. This way each 2
feet of counter space has a 4 slot receptable in my case all
unswitched. each dual gang box got its own dedicated breaker on a 20
amp circuit. this minimizes cords draped across counters. its easy to
know what breaker tripped too, and each box has its own on site GFCI,
so its easy to reset if something trips.

I didnt like the idea of multiple breakers powering a single box....

futher I bought premium 20 amp GFCIs and receptables the back wired
kind with screws/ My kitchen now has 5 seperate breakers powering
convenience outlets. and seperate breakers for stove, dishwasher,
fridge, microwave kitchen light and disposal.

I figured overkill would nean I didnt have to do it again. makes
troubleshooting easy too

On Fri, 03 Mar 2006 21:00:02 GMT, (John Cochran)
wrote:

I am going to be performing a major renovation of my house and for the kitchen,
I intend on doing some extreme overkill on the outlets. What I intend on
having is 2 split duplex outlets and a single switched outlet for every 4
feet of counter space. That's right, there will be a triple gang box containing
4 unswitched outlets and 1 switched outlet and each outlet will have a
separate breaker for a total of 5 circuits.

I know that I can easily obtain 2-pole GFCI breakers and a 1 pole GFCI breaker
as well. I also know that the split duplex outlets must be on a 2-pole GFCI
breaker in order for the GFCI to work properly with a shared neutral. But
I forsee a problem in that a total of 3 breakers (2 double polled and 1
single polled) must be turned off in order to remove all power from each
triple gang box. I don't know if the NEC considers this a safety hazard, but I
do. Is it possible to link 5 breakers together so that if any of the 5 breakers
trip, then all 5 breakers will trip? If so, how would I do that?

I think it would make more sense to have a duplex box every two feet,
With two 3-wire Edison circuts in alternating boxes, and one side
of one of them switched.

The would require two 2-pole GFCI breakers, and a switch.

Separating the boxes along the counter means you're less
likely to have a nest of wires all headed for the same
box, but they'd be close enough together that you could
still cluster appliances together without running cords
all over the counter.

On Fri, 03 Mar 2006 21:00:02 GMT, (John Cochran)
wrote:

I am going to be performing a major renovation of my house and for the kitchen,
I intend on doing some extreme overkill on the outlets. What I intend on
having is 2 split duplex outlets and a single switched outlet for every 4
feet of counter space. That's right, there will be a triple gang box containing
4 unswitched outlets and 1 switched outlet and each outlet will have a
separate breaker for a total of 5 circuits.

I know that I can easily obtain 2-pole GFCI breakers and a 1 pole GFCI breaker
as well. I also know that the split duplex outlets must be on a 2-pole GFCI
breaker in order for the GFCI to work properly with a shared neutral. But
I forsee a problem in that a total of 3 breakers (2 double polled and 1
single polled) must be turned off in order to remove all power from each
triple gang box. I don't know if the NEC considers this a safety hazard, but I
do. Is it possible to link 5 breakers together so that if any of the 5 breakers
trip, then all 5 breakers will trip? If so, how would I do that?

What are the switched ones for?

In article ,
wrote:
On Fri, 03 Mar 2006 21:00:02 GMT, (John Cochran)
wrote:

I intend on doing some extreme overkill on the outlets. What I intend on
having is 2 split duplex outlets and a single switched outlet for every 4
feet of counter space. That's right, there will be a triple gang box containing
4 unswitched outlets and 1 switched outlet and each outlet will have a
separate breaker for a total of 5 circuits.


What are the switched ones for?

Some kitchen appliances have a cord and to turn them on and off, you have to
plug them in and unplug them. My wife would like to have them plugged into
a switched outlet and have the switch that controls the outlet immediately
above the outlet. (Think popcorn popper and deep fryer).

John Cochran wrote:
In article ,
wrote:

On Fri, 03 Mar 2006 21:00:02 GMT, (John Cochran)
wrote:


I intend on doing some extreme overkill on the outlets. What I intend on
having is 2 split duplex outlets and a single switched outlet for every 4
feet of counter space. That's right, there will be a triple gang box containing
4 unswitched outlets and 1 switched outlet and each outlet will have a
separate breaker for a total of 5 circuits.


What are the switched ones for?


Some kitchen appliances have a cord and to turn them on and off, you have to
plug them in and unplug them. My wife would like to have them plugged into
a switched outlet and have the switch that controls the outlet immediately
above the outlet. (Think popcorn popper and deep fryer).


Watch the switch rating - it should be the same rating as the receptacle
it switches for your kitchen outlet. If there are more than 2 outlets on
a circuit the outlet could be 15A, else 20A. The switch should match.
The way I read your description the switched receptacle uses a device
like a duplex receptacle except one half is a switch. I wouldn't bet on
finding a 15A or 20A rating on the switch.

Hard to imagine how you would need 4 circuits (not including switched
one) at one locaton. Distributing the outlets as Goedgn suggested sounds
more practical.

bud--

John Cochran wrote:
In article ,
wrote:
On Fri, 03 Mar 2006 21:00:02 GMT, (John Cochran)
wrote:

I intend on doing some extreme overkill on the outlets. What I intend on
having is 2 split duplex outlets and a single switched outlet for every 4
feet of counter space. That's right, there will be a triple gang box containing
4 unswitched outlets and 1 switched outlet and each outlet will have a
separate breaker for a total of 5 circuits.


What are the switched ones for?

Some kitchen appliances have a cord and to turn them on and off, you have to
plug them in and unplug them. My wife would like to have them plugged into
a switched outlet and have the switch that controls the outlet immediately
above the outlet. (Think popcorn popper and deep fryer).


I'm not so sure I like the idea of using a wall switch to turn on/off
an appliance like a deep fryer. It would seem too easy for someone
to turn the switch on, not realizing what it's for, and then have
someone try to move the fryer, not realizing it was hot. Or having it
turned on accidentally when it had no oil in it, etc.

If he REALLY wants switched outlets use 3 gang boxes, with the first a
switch then a set of duplex receptables perhaps one of which is
switched and one not. or use the break away contact and switch just one
of the 4 outlets.

I would add a pilot light for each switch as a reminder as to whats on.
there should be enough room to fit it by the switch, since lots of
switches today are fairly small. ,ake certain swich is rated at 20 amps
too

Honestly I think pulling the plug is safer

In article .com,
wrote:
If he REALLY wants switched outlets use 3 gang boxes, with the first a
switch then a set of duplex receptables perhaps one of which is
switched and one not. or use the break away contact and switch just one
of the 4 outlets.

There are devices where there is a switch and a single outlet in 1 device.
Using a crude ASCII drawing, the desired layout is

+-------+-------+-------+
| | | | | | | ++--+ | --- A single pole switch controlling a single
| O | O | ++--+ | Outlet.
| | | |
| | | | | | | | | | --- The switched outlet is immediately below
| O | O | O | the switch that controls it.
+-------+-------+-------+
^ ^
| |
| |
Split Duplex outlets each capable of full draw since each is on a separate
breaker.

The wiring for the above beast is

+--------------+ 12/3 Wire
| 20 Amp |-- Phase 1 ------- Connected to top brass screw
| Double Pole |-- Neutral ------- Connected to silver screw
| GFCI breaker |-- Phase 2 ------- Connected to bottom brass screw
+--------------+
The tabs between the brass screws is broken off.

The above would be used for each duplex outlet so that a full load may
be placed on each outlet without overloading the circuit.

For the single switched outlet, the switch simply controls the single
socket immediately below it.

However, the above beast requires 2 double-pole GFCI circuit breakers
and a single pole GFCI circuit breaker. What I would like to do is
physically tie all three breakers together so that if any of the breakers
trip, the entire gang box is de-energized.