Hello,

Just want to get the terminology correct.

Understand the differences between the Ground and the neutral in house
wiring O.K., but for
the bare wire that comes in from the street (along with the two phases) to
the house service panel:

is this correctly called a Ground wire or a Neutral wire ?

Thanks,
Bob

"Robert11" wrote in message
...
Hello,

Just want to get the terminology correct.

Understand the differences between the Ground and the neutral in house
wiring O.K., but for
the bare wire that comes in from the street (along with the two phases) to
the house service panel:

is this correctly called a Ground wire or a Neutral wire ?

Thanks,
Bob



It is a grounded conductor commonly called the neutral. The wire that
connects to your water pipe and ground rods is called a grounding conductor
or more specifically a grounding electrode conductor.

It is a neutral, which is grounded by the utility company on their end and
grounded by the customer on their end



"Robert11" wrote in message
...
Hello,

Just want to get the terminology correct.

Understand the differences between the Ground and the neutral in house
wiring O.K., but for
the bare wire that comes in from the street (along with the two phases) to
the house service panel:

is this correctly called a Ground wire or a Neutral wire ?

Thanks,
Bob

"Robert11" wrote in message
...
Hello,

Just want to get the terminology correct.

Understand the differences between the Ground and the neutral in house
wiring O.K., but for
the bare wire that comes in from the street (along with the two phases) to
the house service panel:

is this correctly called a Ground wire or a Neutral wire ?

Thanks,
Bob

It is a neutral and caries the difference in current back from the 2 hot
legs.
If you have a 100 amp service and one leg is at 60 amp and the other is at
40 amp then the neutral is 20 amps. If both legs are equal the current in
the neutral cancels out to 0 amps etc.

The 2 legs are not really 2 phases but rather 2 poles that are derived, by a
center tapped transformer, from ONE the 3 phases that come from the power
generation plant. The center tap being the neutral and grounded so it is at
a 0V reference.

Kevin

According to Robert11 :
Hello,

Just want to get the terminology correct.

Understand the differences between the Ground and the neutral in house
wiring O.K., but for
the bare wire that comes in from the street (along with the two phases) to
the house service panel:

is this correctly called a Ground wire or a Neutral wire ?

Neither. John Grabowski's response is correct, but I thought I'd
amplify.

The technically correct term for the "neutral" in the house wiring, and the "non-hot" wire
that comes from the street is "grounded conductor" - the conductor is groundED (at the
panel).

The technically correct term for the bare wire in house wiring is "grounding conductor"
it provides the groundING for a circuit.

Pedantically speaking, the term "neutral" can only be applied to the center conductor
on a multi-phase circuit (eg: three phase).

However, through common usage in the trade and elsewhere, "neutral" has come
to be synonymous with "grounded conductor" and "ground"/"ground wire" synonymous for
"grounding conductor".

You'll occasionally see people use the "more-correct" terms here - usually confuses
people. You'll impress the inspector if you use them ;-)
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

Black wire
Neutral, Negative, -, Ground
(This is the basically the negative end of the circuit)

White wire
Positive, Hot, +
(This is basically the Positive end of the circuit, and is the one that
comes from the breakers)

No insulation or green insulation
Ground, Case Ground
(This is there to give the hot wire something easy to touch so that it
will blow a breaker instead of laying there like a trap waiting for you
to touch it, and is electrically the same as the Black Wire when you
test it with your meter.)


Be sure that all your plugs are wired the same or you can get shocked
by touching two cases at the same time that are plugged into two
different plugs.

According to CanopyCo :
Black wire
Neutral, Negative, -, Ground
(This is the basically the negative end of the circuit)

White wire
Positive, Hot, +
(This is basically the Positive end of the circuit, and is the one that
comes from the breakers)

You have your colour codes precisely backwards. Black is hot. White
is neutral.

In AC housewiring, "negative", "-", "positive" and "+" are simply wrong.
It's AC, remember?
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

Robert11 wrote:
Hello,

Just want to get the terminology correct.

Understand the differences between the Ground and the neutral in house
wiring O.K., but for
the bare wire that comes in from the street (along with the two phases) to
the house service panel:

is this correctly called a Ground wire or a Neutral wire ?

Thanks,
Bob




IMHO, it is a grounded [service] conductor. Notice the -ed suffix; it
is important. I put service in brackets because you can usually leave
that word out.

Bob

Robert11 wrote:
Hello,

Just want to get the terminology correct.

Understand the differences between the Ground and the neutral in house
wiring O.K., but for
the bare wire that comes in from the street (along with the two phases) to
the house service panel:

is this correctly called a Ground wire or a Neutral wire ?

Thanks,
Bob



There are hundreds of web sites that discuss this subject.
For example:

http://www.electrical-online.com/how.../Grounding.htm

http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/e...er/install.htm

On 22 Feb 2006 07:13:19 -0800, "CanopyCo" wrote:

Black wire
Neutral, Negative, -, Ground
(This is the basically the negative end of the circuit)

White wire
Positive, Hot, +
(This is basically the Positive end of the circuit, and is the one that
comes from the breakers)


Believe that at your own risk. Black is hot. Maybe you're getting it
confused with DC (as in a car).

No insulation or green insulation
Ground, Case Ground
(This is there to give the hot wire something easy to touch so that it
will blow a breaker instead of laying there like a trap waiting for you
to touch it, and is electrically the same as the Black Wire when you
test it with your meter.)


Be sure that all your plugs are wired the same or you can get shocked
by touching two cases at the same time that are plugged into two
different plugs.

That is, black wire (hot) to the shorter slot and white wire (neutral)
to the longer slot.
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what
to have for lunch. Liberty is a well armed lamb
contesting the vote." - Benjamin Franklin

"Robert11" wrote in message
...
Hello,

Just want to get the terminology correct.

Understand the differences between the Ground and the neutral in house
wiring O.K., but for
the bare wire that comes in from the street (along with the two phases) to
the house service panel:

is this correctly called a Ground wire or a Neutral wire ?

Thanks,
Bob

confusing you further is possible.
The bare wire from the utility is a grounded conductor, not necessarily a
neutral and has nothing to do with your house wiring terminology. The
utility works on a different set of rules and regs.

Where I live the bare conductor in the service drop is called the "messenger
wire" or sometimes the 'static' wire. It is usually steel or steel core
surrounded by AL. Much stronger than the "conductors" that are insulated.

In article .com, "CanopyCo" wrote:
Black wire
Neutral, Negative, -, Ground
(This is the basically the negative end of the circuit)

White wire
Positive, Hot, +
(This is basically the Positive end of the circuit, and is the one that
comes from the breakers)

Bzzzt! Sorry, but thanks for playing. That's exactly backwards. Hope you don't
try to do your own AC wiring...

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

John Grabowski wrote:
"Robert11" wrote in message
...

Hello,

Just want to get the terminology correct.

Understand the differences between the Ground and the neutral in house
wiring O.K., but for
the bare wire that comes in from the street (along with the two phases) to
the house service panel:

is this correctly called a Ground wire or a Neutral wire ?

Thanks,
Bob




It is a grounded conductor commonly called the neutral. The wire that
connects to your water pipe and ground rods is called a grounding conductor
or more specifically a grounding electrode conductor.

FYI: May be no longer OK to ground to a water pipe in many locations
now. I prefer to only use ground rods anyway.

SQLit wrote:
"Robert11" wrote in message
...

Hello,

Just want to get the terminology correct.

Understand the differences between the Ground and the neutral in house
wiring O.K., but for
the bare wire that comes in from the street (along with the two phases) to
the house service panel:

is this correctly called a Ground wire or a Neutral wire ?

Thanks,
Bob


confusing you further is possible.
The bare wire from the utility is a grounded conductor, not necessarily a
neutral and has nothing to do with your house wiring terminology. The
utility works on a different set of rules and regs.

Where I live the bare conductor in the service drop is called the "messenger
wire" or sometimes the 'static' wire. It is usually steel or steel core
surrounded by AL. Much stronger than the "conductors" that are insulated.


Even though the neutral conductor on the entrance cable is grounded,
that means is at ground potential but will carry current difference
between the two hot legs. When suspended can be bare, others are
insulated as so can be twisted together and not short. Buried lines have
all conductors insulated.

"Chris Lewis" wrote in message
...
According to Robert11 :
Hello,

Just want to get the terminology correct.

Understand the differences between the Ground and the neutral in house
wiring O.K., but for
the bare wire that comes in from the street (along with the two phases)
to
the house service panel:

is this correctly called a Ground wire or a Neutral wire ?

Neither. John Grabowski's response is correct, but I thought I'd
amplify.

The technically correct term for the "neutral" in the house wiring, and
the "non-hot" wire
that comes from the street is "grounded conductor" - the conductor is
groundED (at the
panel).

The technically correct term for the bare wire in house wiring is
"grounding conductor"
it provides the groundING for a circuit.

Pedantically speaking, the term "neutral" can only be applied to the
center conductor
on a multi-phase circuit (eg: three phase).

However, through common usage in the trade and elsewhere, "neutral" has
come
to be synonymous with "grounded conductor" and "ground"/"ground wire"
synonymous for
"grounding conductor".

You'll occasionally see people use the "more-correct" terms here - usually
confuses
people. You'll impress the inspector if you use them ;-)
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.
The subject has been well covered but the term "neutral" was and is used by
people in the electrical trade (electricians, linemen, engineers, writers,
etc.) to refer to a grounded conductor, whether it is a center-tap or end
connection. This usage basically means "not hot", or relatively safe.

Don Young

In article , MC wrote:

FYI: May be no longer OK to ground to a water pipe in many locations
now. I prefer to only use ground rods anyway.

Correction: if a building has metal water pipes, it is a Code requirement (and
has been, for some time) that the metal water pipes be bonded to the
building's grounding electrode system. The Code prohibits using metal water
piping as the *only* grounding electrode.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Chris Lewis wrote:
According to CanopyCo :
Black wire
Neutral, Negative, -, Ground
(This is the basically the negative end of the circuit)

White wire
Positive, Hot, +
(This is basically the Positive end of the circuit, and is the one that
comes from the breakers)

You have your colour codes precisely backwards. Black is hot. White
is neutral.

In AC housewiring, "negative", "-", "positive" and "+" are simply wrong.
It's AC, remember?
--

Figures.
Looks like I have them backwards.

Anyone have a web cite that would show the correct wiring?
I got my information form a web cite that had a picture of a plug.
I still have the pic as a file to refer back to.

No matter how you wire it, it has to be the same as what is already
there.
If they have it backward, then you better stick with there wiring code
or you will get shocked.

And as to + & - in AC, it is simply a better way to keep track of what
is going on.

You have to have a completed circuit to do anything (a + & -) and
thinking of it this way helps keep things simple.

Much to hard for most people to grasp that that one wire is a + 30
times a second, and a - 30 times a second.

On Thu, 23 Feb 2006 13:00:16 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:

In article , MC wrote:

FYI: May be no longer OK to ground to a water pipe in many locations
now. I prefer to only use ground rods anyway.

Correction: if a building has metal water pipes, it is a Code requirement (and
has been, for some time) that the metal water pipes be bonded to the
building's grounding electrode system. The Code prohibits using metal water
piping as the *only* grounding electrode.

Which in clear but imprecise terms, means that the the piping has
to be CONNECTED to the grounding system, but shouldn't be
used as PART of it. You connect the pipes to ground, but
you don't ground to the pipes.

MC wrote:

FYI: May be no longer OK to ground to a water pipe in many locations
now. I prefer to only use ground rods anyway.


I have seen 3 ohms stated as a typical ground resistance for an urban
metal water distribution system. The NEC considers 25 ohms ground
resistance acceptable for a single ground rod, or you can use more than
2 rods and it doesn't matter. Would seem like a water pipe is a better
grounding electrode.

bud-

MC wrote:
John Grabowski wrote:

"Robert11" wrote in message
...

Hello,

Just want to get the terminology correct.

Understand the differences between the Ground and the neutral in house
wiring O.K., but for
the bare wire that comes in from the street (along with the two
phases) to
the house service panel:

is this correctly called a Ground wire or a Neutral wire ?

Thanks,
Bob




It is a grounded conductor commonly called the neutral. The wire that
connects to your water pipe and ground rods is called a grounding
conductor
or more specifically a grounding electrode conductor.

FYI: May be no longer OK to ground to a water pipe in many locations
now. I prefer to only use ground rods anyway.

In any installation governed by the US National Electric Code you must
use the underground metallic water piping as a grounding electrode. Not
using it is not a choice you would have.
--
Tom Horne

Goedjn wrote:
On Thu, 23 Feb 2006 13:00:16 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:


In article , MC wrote:


FYI: May be no longer OK to ground to a water pipe in many locations
now. I prefer to only use ground rods anyway.

Correction: if a building has metal water pipes, it is a Code requirement (and
has been, for some time) that the metal water pipes be bonded to the
building's grounding electrode system. The Code prohibits using metal water
piping as the *only* grounding electrode.


Which in clear but imprecise terms, means that the the piping has
to be CONNECTED to the grounding system, but shouldn't be
used as PART of it. You connect the pipes to ground, but
you don't ground to the pipes.


Then what pray tell are you grounding to? The grounding impedance of
two driven rods is often over fifty ohms. The grounding impedance of
underground metal water pipes that are part of a community water system
is usually less than ten ohms. Changing what we say does not reverse
those figures. It is the underground metal water piping that provides
the low impedance connection to earth. The driven rods are strictly a
back up in case the piping is replaced with non conductive piping.
--
Tom Horne

--
"This alternating current stuff is just a fad. It is much too dangerous
for general use." Thomas Alva Edison

On 23 Feb 2006 09:49:55 -0800, "volts500" wrote:

Goedjn wrote:
On Thu, 23 Feb 2006 13:00:16 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:

In article , MC wrote:

FYI: May be no longer OK to ground to a water pipe in many locations
now. I prefer to only use ground rods anyway.

Correction: if a building has metal water pipes, it is a Code requirement (and
has been, for some time) that the metal water pipes be bonded to the
building's grounding electrode system. The Code prohibits using metal water
piping as the *only* grounding electrode.

Which in clear but imprecise terms, means that the the piping has
to be CONNECTED to the grounding system, but shouldn't be
used as PART of it. You connect the pipes to ground, but
you don't ground to the pipes.

If the incoming underground water pipes are metal, one most certainly
grounds the electric system "to the pipes". In fact NEC requires that
underground metal water pipes (buried at least 20 ft.) be used as the
primary grounding electrode when available.

Are you sure? I don't have a copy of NEC here, but what I remember
was verbage more like this:

"If ten feet of metal underground
water pipe is available, it must be
used as a grounding electrode;
however, it must always be
supplemented by an additional
electrode."

--- from:
http://www.ventura.org/vcrma/build_s...s_info/e-7.pdf

Either way, the functional bottom line is that connecting the
service-panel ground to the pipes is sometimes necessary, but
never sufficient. I was under the impression that the
purpose of that was to get electricity OFF the pipes,
rather than to provide an additional path to ground.

Water line MUST be unified to electrical ground, and a jumper MUST be
placed across the water meter so that ground is still good if the meter
is removed and elmnates meter rubber washer interfying with a good
connection

wrote:
Water line MUST be unified to electrical ground, and a jumper MUST be
placed across the water meter so that ground is still good if the meter
is removed and elmnates meter rubber washer interfying with a good
connection


And city code here requires electrical isolation from the water system.
Meters, installed at the street, have about 10 feet of plastic pipe
before they make connection with the copper pipes going to the house.

"CanopyCo" wrote in message
ups.com...

Chris Lewis wrote:
According to CanopyCo :
Black wire
Neutral, Negative, -, Ground
(This is the basically the negative end of the circuit)

White wire
Positive, Hot, +
(This is basically the Positive end of the circuit, and is the one that
comes from the breakers)

You have your colour codes precisely backwards. Black is hot. White
is neutral.

In AC housewiring, "negative", "-", "positive" and "+" are simply wrong.
It's AC, remember?
--

Figures.
Looks like I have them backwards.

Anyone have a web cite that would show the correct wiring?
I got my information form a web cite that had a picture of a plug.
I still have the pic as a file to refer back to.

No matter how you wire it, it has to be the same as what is already
there.
If they have it backward, then you better stick with there wiring code
or you will get shocked.

And as to + & - in AC, it is simply a better way to keep track of what
is going on.

You have to have a completed circuit to do anything (a + & -) and
thinking of it this way helps keep things simple.

Much to hard for most people to grasp that that one wire is a + 30
times a second, and a - 30 times a second.

Actually it is + 60 times a second and - 60 times a second. Sixty hertz is
"60 cycles per second" and each cycle has both + and - alternations.
Reversed power wiring often is caused by people who are more familiar with
automotive or electronic wiring than with AC power conventions. It obviously
works but creates totally unnecessary and possibly severe hazards.

Don Young

Goedjn wrote:

On 23 Feb 2006 09:49:55 -0800, "volts500" wrote:


Goedjn wrote:

On Thu, 23 Feb 2006 13:00:16 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:


In article , MC wrote:


FYI: May be no longer OK to ground to a water pipe in many locations
now. I prefer to only use ground rods anyway.

Correction: if a building has metal water pipes, it is a Code requirement (and
has been, for some time) that the metal water pipes be bonded to the
building's grounding electrode system. The Code prohibits using metal water
piping as the *only* grounding electrode.

Which in clear but imprecise terms, means that the the piping has
to be CONNECTED to the grounding system, but shouldn't be
used as PART of it. You connect the pipes to ground, but
you don't ground to the pipes.

If the incoming underground water pipes are metal, one most certainly
grounds the electric system "to the pipes". In fact NEC requires that
underground metal water pipes (buried at least 20 ft.) be used as the
primary grounding electrode when available.


Are you sure? I don't have a copy of NEC here, but what I remember
was verbage more like this:

"If ten feet of metal underground
water pipe is available, it must be
used as a grounding electrode;
however, it must always be
supplemented by an additional
electrode."

--- from:
http://www.ventura.org/vcrma/build_s...s_info/e-7.pdf

Either way, the functional bottom line is that connecting the
service-panel ground to the pipes is sometimes necessary, but
never sufficient. I was under the impression that the
purpose of that was to get electricity OFF the pipes,
rather than to provide an additional path to ground.


I have no idea what "get electricity OFF the pipes" means.

You are right about 10' - in the post of Rich256 the water pipe
(plastic) is not a grounding electrode.

Of the electrodes normally available in a house, the best by far is 10'
or more of underground water pipe (doesn't have to buried 20') and if
such pipe exists it MUST be part of the grounding electrode system. This
was the only required grounding electrode until recently.

The ONLY reason a suplementary electrode is necessary is that the metal
water pipe may in the future be replaced by plastic (as Tom Horne said).
Note the term "supplementary". If the water pipe is metal the
supplementary electrode adds little or nothing.

Of the "supplementary" electrodes that can be used, probably the worst
is a ground rod because of high ground resistance. Unfortunately it is
the easiest to provide. Far better. with a long term tested ground
resistance of 5 ohms, is a concrete-encased electrode (Ufer ground).
These are easy to include in new construction. Next best is probably a
ground ring - also easy to provide in new construction.

bud--

On Thu, 23 Feb 2006 22:13:54 -0600, "Don Young"
wrote:


"CanopyCo" wrote in message
oups.com...

Chris Lewis wrote:
According to CanopyCo :
Black wire
Neutral, Negative, -, Ground
(This is the basically the negative end of the circuit)

White wire
Positive, Hot, +
(This is basically the Positive end of the circuit, and is the one that
comes from the breakers)

You have your colour codes precisely backwards. Black is hot. White
is neutral.

In AC housewiring, "negative", "-", "positive" and "+" are simply wrong.
It's AC, remember?
--

Figures.
Looks like I have them backwards.

Anyone have a web cite that would show the correct wiring?
I got my information form a web cite that had a picture of a plug.
I still have the pic as a file to refer back to.

No matter how you wire it, it has to be the same as what is already
there.
If they have it backward, then you better stick with there wiring code
or you will get shocked.

And as to + & - in AC, it is simply a better way to keep track of what
is going on.

You have to have a completed circuit to do anything (a + & -) and
thinking of it this way helps keep things simple.

Much to hard for most people to grasp that that one wire is a + 30
times a second, and a - 30 times a second.

Actually it is + 60 times a second and - 60 times a second. Sixty hertz is
"60 cycles per second" and each cycle has both + and - alternations.
Reversed power wiring often is caused by people who are more familiar with
automotive or electronic wiring

probably negative-ground DC. where the - (ground) wire is often black.

than with AC power conventions. It obviously
works but creates totally unnecessary and possibly severe hazards.

Don Young


If you're using that 60Hz AC to power an incandescent light, the light
output is 120Hz (since either polarity lights it). It wouldn't be easy
to get 30Hz from it.
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what
to have for lunch. Liberty is a well armed lamb
contesting the vote." - Benjamin Franklin

According to Bud-- :

Of the "supplementary" electrodes that can be used, probably the worst
is a ground rod because of high ground resistance. Unfortunately it is
the easiest to provide. Far better. with a long term tested ground
resistance of 5 ohms, is a concrete-encased electrode (Ufer ground).
These are easy to include in new construction. Next best is probably a
ground ring - also easy to provide in new construction.

Recent electrical code revisions appear to be prefering grounding
plates over rods. These plates are approx 12" square by 1/4" thick.

More surface area than a rod. Somewhat trickier to install -
undisturbed dirt contact, not just flung in the backfill.
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

Bud-- wrote:

I have no idea what "get electricity OFF the pipes" means.


I believe that this is the activity of making sure that the water
coming out of your shower is the same electrically as your ground.

That way, you do not get shocked just because you left hand is in the
water while your right hand is holding the shaver with a case ground.

AC mean that 30 time a second that one wire is +, the other 30 times a
second it is -.

Now, that timing needs to be the same as your water supply.
That way, when your water is +, so is everything else.

No current flow possible.

If it is +, when everything else is -, then you get shocked.

Don Young wrote:
"CanopyCo" wrote in message
ups.com...

Much to hard for most people to grasp that that one wire is a + 30
times a second, and a - 30 times a second.

Actually it is + 60 times a second and - 60 times a second. Sixty hertz is
"60 cycles per second" and each cycle has both + and - alternations.
Reversed power wiring often is caused by people who are more familiar with
automotive or electronic wiring than with AC power conventions. It obviously
works but creates totally unnecessary and possibly severe hazards.

Don Young

You may be right.
I would have to get access to an oscilloscope to be sure.

Either way, it switched way to often and fast for me to try to keep
track of it so I just try to make sure that all my plugs are the same.

The thing that amazes me is how few people actually know or understand
this fact (AC switches + & - on the same wire).

I have even had people that worked with the electric company who's
profession was to work on the high lines that constantly clamed that I
was wrong.

He kept saying that an AC current was traveling down the line, but
could not comprehend what that actually meant.

Swore that the + wire was always +, but with an AC signal going down it.

CanopyCo wrote:
Bud-- wrote:
I have no idea what "get electricity OFF the pipes" means.


I believe that this is the activity of making sure that the water
coming out of your shower is the same electrically as your ground.

That way, you do not get shocked just because you left hand is in the
water while your right hand is holding the shaver with a case ground.

AC mean that 30 time a second that one wire is +, the other 30 times a
second it is -.


No. 60 times a second one wire is + and 60 times a second that same
wire is negative. The other is always at ground potential. The hot
wire actually gets to about 170 volts positive and 170 volts negative
during those swings. The RMS voltage being 120 volts.

Or about 162 volts peak if we refer to it as 115 volts AC.

A quick look shows there are quite a few web sites that describe this:

http://www.ee.unb.ca/tervo/ee2791/vrms.htm


Now if you have 240 volt service one of the hots gets 170 volts positive
and at the same time the other line is 170 volts negative. They both
cross the 0 volts at the same time. So if you are looking at them
relative to each other the one line gets to be 340 volts different than
the other.

In Europe with 230 volt service one line is grounded and the other gets
to 325 volts at 50 cycles (Hz). Or about 310 volts peak if you refer to
it as 220 volts.