I have been told to replace my existing old style 120 gallon galvanized
pressure tank with a bladder style tank i have to pull my submersible
pump and change something??? is this a true statement??

Unless the air inlet valve is inside the casing, you shouldn't have to
pull the pump, but your old pressure tank probably has an air valve
somewhere before the check valve. It should look like a schraeder valve
(at least on mine it does). That'll have to be taken care of so you
don't introduce any air into the new tank. I think. Tom

"tom" wrote in message
ups.com...
Unless the air inlet valve is inside the casing, you shouldn't have to
pull the pump, but your old pressure tank probably has an air valve
somewhere before the check valve. It should look like a schraeder valve
(at least on mine it does). That'll have to be taken care of so you
don't introduce any air into the new tank. I think. Tom



I didn't have to and that was 15 yrs ago. Talk to a plumer.

wrote:
I have been told to replace my existing old style 120 gallon galvanized
pressure tank with a bladder style tank i have to pull my submersible
pump and change something??? is this a true statement??

You don't have to pull the pump. There will be some type of air
injector valve somplace in the accessable piping before it enters your
existing tank or a float type "snifter" valve on the tank itself. If
it is on the pipe going into the tank, remove it.

Once you have the new tank in position, check the pre-charge in the
tank. It should be set to about 2 psi below your cut-in setting on the
pressure switch. If you are set for a 30-50 range, then adjust the
pre-charge to 28 psi.

Harry K