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#1
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Hi all,
I'm not sure about the rest of the country, but here in Central Texas (specially out in the country) the energy prices are doubling if not more. My dad (who uses the same energy provider as I) got his bill Saturday and it went from $140 the prior month to $270 this month. Mine should be coming in a week or so, and if my usual $200 electric bill is $400 I'm screwed! So with that being said, can someone give suggests I've not thought of to cut the energy bill? Luckily now through the next month or two is good open-window weather for us, but come April the temps start creaping back up and A/C starts coming on. If my electric bill runs $200-$300 with NO A/C or Heat, what're folks supposed to do? My home is all electric, and we've already quit running the dishwasher and we're starting to hang-dry our clothes instead of running dryer. We're buying fluorescent bulbs to replace all the incandescent light bulbs in our house. We've never really left the TV on while not watching, but we do run a little XM Radio for back-ground music while doing stuff around the house. Also I have an older fridge in the garage we use to store sodas andsuch, but I'm pulling the plug on that and putting it in the paper to sell (takes up too much space anyway). What else can I and anyone in my situation do to save some extra bucks on energy? My home is 22 years old and on a concrete foundation. As for insulation, I'm planning on adding another layer to the attic sometime soon. Also I have some french doors I put in not long ago that are sitll roughed out and not well sealed -- so I'm planning on finishing that. As for inside the house, we've bought binds and curtains for all windows and the french doors, which I hope will help. We also have a ceiling fan in our bedroom we run during warmer nights... but that's not enough for those 90'F at 11pm nights we have in the Texas summers. I've even thought about adding a hot water heater timer, but given our hot water heater is only 2 years old and VERY efficient, I don't know if this'll do any real good from what I'm reading. Is there anything I'm missing? Our electric is from a rural Coop, which isn't regulated like others, so I can't switch companies. Also short of adding solar panels or wind-powered generators, not sure what else to do. Thanks for any insight or ideas. Also is this just a Texas thing or across the US? Thanks -- Sam Alex |
#2
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Sounds like you are doing a lot. Consumer reports just said that a dish
washer uses much less water (which is hot water) than hand washing so maybe you want to keep using it. Real problem is our politicians and electric companies went in big for gas powered power plants in the 90's. Gee now there is a gas shortage (helped by Katrina). Assume much of your elec power is gas generated. Thankfully here in Virginia ours is mostly coal and nuclear. Course my heat's gas so I'm paying more too. I'm afraid we are going to see alot more of this in the future. "Alex" wrote in message ups.com... Hi all, I'm not sure about the rest of the country, but here in Central Texas (specially out in the country) the energy prices are doubling if not more. My dad (who uses the same energy provider as I) got his bill Saturday and it went from $140 the prior month to $270 this month. Mine should be coming in a week or so, and if my usual $200 electric bill is $400 I'm screwed! So with that being said, can someone give suggests I've not thought of to cut the energy bill? Luckily now through the next month or two is good open-window weather for us, but come April the temps start creaping back up and A/C starts coming on. If my electric bill runs $200-$300 with NO A/C or Heat, what're folks supposed to do? My home is all electric, and we've already quit running the dishwasher and we're starting to hang-dry our clothes instead of running dryer. We're buying fluorescent bulbs to replace all the incandescent light bulbs in our house. We've never really left the TV on while not watching, but we do run a little XM Radio for back-ground music while doing stuff around the house. Also I have an older fridge in the garage we use to store sodas andsuch, but I'm pulling the plug on that and putting it in the paper to sell (takes up too much space anyway). What else can I and anyone in my situation do to save some extra bucks on energy? My home is 22 years old and on a concrete foundation. As for insulation, I'm planning on adding another layer to the attic sometime soon. Also I have some french doors I put in not long ago that are sitll roughed out and not well sealed -- so I'm planning on finishing that. As for inside the house, we've bought binds and curtains for all windows and the french doors, which I hope will help. We also have a ceiling fan in our bedroom we run during warmer nights... but that's not enough for those 90'F at 11pm nights we have in the Texas summers. I've even thought about adding a hot water heater timer, but given our hot water heater is only 2 years old and VERY efficient, I don't know if this'll do any real good from what I'm reading. Is there anything I'm missing? Our electric is from a rural Coop, which isn't regulated like others, so I can't switch companies. Also short of adding solar panels or wind-powered generators, not sure what else to do. Thanks for any insight or ideas. Also is this just a Texas thing or across the US? Thanks -- Sam Alex |
#3
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Jeff wrote:
Real problem is our politicians ... went in big for gas ... Gee now there is a gas shortage (helped by Katrina). There is NO political gas shortage. |
#4
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Jeff ) said...
Sounds like you are doing a lot. Consumer reports just said that a dish washer uses much less water (which is hot water) than hand washing so maybe you want to keep using it. Running the dishwasher (and clothes washer and dryer) in off peak hours can result in a savings. For most of us, this savings is not direct as we pay for electricity based on how much we use, not when we use it, but the utility's price will be based on what they pay and it is related to when it is used, so any shift in the load to an off peak time will indirectly effect price. If you have a smart meter, it will save you directly. That said, be careful HOW you shift your usage to an off peak time. I know a number of people who use the delayed start feature on their diswhashers to have it clean the dishes in the middle of the night, and this can be MORE costly. Some dishwashers have fully electronic controls so you can specify what cycle to use and when. Many do not, and they use a dial you turn to the various settings. Our dishwasher is of this type and we can set a delayed start up to 6 hours. The trouble is, when this is done the WHOLE dial is used, so when the cleaning actually takes place we get a HEAVY cycle. If the load of dishes can be sufficiently cleaned with the normal cycle or even the short cycle, we are stuck with the heavy cycle when using the delayed start. By simply starting the dishwasher before going to bed, it is possible to select the cycle needed. There is another issue that applies if your hot water is heated with natural gas or propane. Both of these (at least in our area) are cheaper than electricity. When manually starting the dishwasher, you can first run the hot water until it gets hot, so the dishwasher gets filled with gas-heated water. On the delayed cycle, it fills with cooler water that is in the pipes. The dishwasher will then heat, by more expensive electricity, the water so that it is at the temperature needed to wash the dishes. Of course, if your hot water is electrically heated, it doessn't matter whether the hot water heater heats it or the dishwasher (it may actually be more efficient for the dishwasher to heat it in this case!). -- Calvin Henry-Cotnam "Never ascribe to malice what can equally be explained by incompetence." - Napoleon ------------------------------------------------------------------------- NOTE: if replying by email, remove "remove." and ".invalid" |
#5
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Probably more accurately, many utilities use gas as boiler-fuel in
steam plants. Relatively quick, cheap and dirty changeover for them. Rather than using the gas to power gas-turbines or diesels and see some efficiency. Or, even fund research on Stirling engines. They just buy huge quantities of gas at low rates and monitor cash-flow. Coal is the problem of the guy downwind. Nukes are quite thermally inefficient (saturated steam) and are essentially uninsured. Enjoy, J |
#6
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On Tue, 17 Jan 2006 21:56:13 GMT, "Jeff" wrote:
Sounds like you are doing a lot. Consumer reports just said that a dish washer uses much less water (which is hot water) than hand washing so maybe you want to keep using it. Real problem is our politicians and electric companies went in big for gas powered power plants in the 90's. They built one of those here (East Texas). The electricity where I live actually comes from coal. Gee now there is a gas shortage (helped by Katrina). Assume much of your elec power is gas generated. Thankfully here in Virginia ours is mostly coal and nuclear. Course my heat's gas so I'm paying more too. I'm afraid we are going to see alot more of this in the future. [snip] -- Mark Lloyd http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com "Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well armed lamb contesting the vote." - Benjamin Franklin |
#7
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Alex wrote:
Hi all, I'm not sure about the rest of the country, but here in Central Texas (specially out in the country) the energy prices are doubling if not more. My dad (who uses the same energy provider as I) got his bill Saturday and it went from $140 the prior month to $270 this month. Mine should be coming in a week or so, and if my usual $200 electric bill is $400 I'm screwed! So with that being said, can someone give suggests I've not thought of to cut the energy bill? Luckily now through the next month or two is good open-window weather for us, but come April the temps start creaping back up and A/C starts coming on. If my electric bill runs $200-$300 with NO A/C or Heat, what're folks supposed to do? My home is all electric, and we've already quit running the dishwasher and we're starting to hang-dry our clothes instead of running dryer. We're buying fluorescent bulbs to replace all the incandescent light bulbs in our house. We've never really left the TV on while not watching, but we do run a little XM Radio for back-ground music while doing stuff around the house. Also I have an older fridge in the garage we use to store sodas andsuch, but I'm pulling the plug on that and putting it in the paper to sell (takes up too much space anyway). What else can I and anyone in my situation do to save some extra bucks on energy? My home is 22 years old and on a concrete foundation. As for insulation, I'm planning on adding another layer to the attic sometime soon. Also I have some french doors I put in not long ago that are sitll roughed out and not well sealed -- so I'm planning on finishing that. As for inside the house, we've bought binds and curtains for all windows and the french doors, which I hope will help. We also have a ceiling fan in our bedroom we run during warmer nights... but that's not enough for those 90'F at 11pm nights we have in the Texas summers. I've even thought about adding a hot water heater timer, but given our hot water heater is only 2 years old and VERY efficient, I don't know if this'll do any real good from what I'm reading. Is there anything I'm missing? Our electric is from a rural Coop, which isn't regulated like others, so I can't switch companies. Also short of adding solar panels or wind-powered generators, not sure what else to do. Thanks for any insight or ideas. Also is this just a Texas thing or across the US? Thanks -- Sam Alex If you want to save power you need to know where it is going. And to do that you will need to measure every major electrical load in your home to figure out which ones are consuming the most and then find some way to reduce those loads without making life intolerable. I purchased my own power meter but I understand that some utilities have such equipment for loan to their customers. In fact your utility may well have an energy audit program where they will come in and tell you where your power/money are going in the home and how to improve the situation. Your idea of unplugging the old fridge is a good idea -- old refrigerators are really major energy hogs compared to new ones. You can pretty safely start using the dishwasher again since most of them are quite efficient -- just don't run it more times in a day than absolutely necessary and turn off the heated dry if you can live without it. In my area the electrical rates haven't gone up noticeably but the natural gas prices are _way_ up. Water rates are flat but the sewer charges have just about doubled because the utility let the infrastructure fall apart and was forced to fix major problems. -- John McGaw [Knoxville, TN, USA] http://johnmcgaw.com |
#8
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![]() In the winter a clothes dryer is a double waster... it used about 5 kW directly and it also takes nice warm air from your home and pushes it outside. Of course this warm air is then replaced by cold air that leaks in to replace it...which makes your heat come on more.... Mark |
#9
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Mark wrote:
In the winter a clothes dryer is a double waster... it used about 5 kW directly and it also takes nice warm air from your home and pushes it outside. Of course this warm air is then replaced by cold air that leaks in to replace it...which makes your heat come on more.... The dryer COULD push the heated air back into the house with a damper on the exhaust. |
#10
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![]() "HeyBub" wrote in message The dryer COULD push the heated air back into the house with a damper on the exhaust. It could , but it also introduces other problems like excessive moisture, lint that will clog inlets on burners, etc. |
#11
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In article ,
"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote: "HeyBub" wrote in message The dryer COULD push the heated air back into the house with a damper on the exhaust. It could , but it also introduces other problems like excessive moisture, lint that will clog inlets on burners, etc. Pantyhose collects the lint, and the moisture is useful during the heating season. -- Free men own guns, slaves don't www.geocities.com/CapitolHill/5357/ |
#12
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Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in message The dryer COULD push the heated air back into the house with a damper on the exhaust. It could , but it also introduces other problems like excessive moisture, lint that will clog inlets on burners, etc. Excessive moisture in the winter? The dampers I've seen have lint screens. |
#13
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John,
I have a question about power meters, I would like to do some consumption monitoring at my house. I see the cheap plug in meters and the $500 Fluke recording multimeters. Is there anything in between? I would like to measure on some 220V appliances and I don;t think that the plug in ones will do it. Any advice? Thanks, Kev Quoted Text "I purchased my own power meter but I understand that some utilities have such equipment for loan to their customers." |
#14
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Kevtrane wrote:
John, I have a question about power meters, I would like to do some consumption monitoring at my house. I see the cheap plug in meters and the $500 Fluke recording multimeters. Is there anything in between? I would like to measure on some 220V appliances and I don;t think that the plug in ones will do it. Any advice? Thanks, Kev Quoted Text "I purchased my own power meter but I understand that some utilities have such equipment for loan to their customers." FWIW, Harbor Freight has some really cheap, serviceable clamp-on ammeters. They won't give you all the information a wattmeter would (especially when power factor is important) but they can nonetheless give you some pretty good clues at very low cost. -- The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to minimize spam. Our true address is of the form . |
#15
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FWIW, Harbor Freight has some really cheap, serviceable clamp-on
ammeters. They won't give you all the information a wattmeter would (especially when power factor is important) but they can nonetheless give you some pretty good clues at very low cost. My appretice had a cheap meter. We used it on a service call. We turned the power off at a breaker marked for that unit and checked it with his meter. It showed 0 volts. I started disconnecting a wire and got lit up by 240 volts. We tossed his meter and got mine. A cheap meter can kill you, it certanly will not give you good answers. I have seen many times that cheap meters lie to you (not accurate) but his was the worst. If you are measuring anything, good tools will give you better answers. Stretch |
#16
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![]() "Stretch" wrote in message ups.com... : FWIW, Harbor Freight has some really cheap, serviceable clamp-on : ammeters. They won't give you all the information a wattmeter would : (especially when power factor is important) but they can nonetheless : give you some pretty good clues at very low cost. : : : My appretice had a cheap meter. We used it on a service call. We : turned the power off at a breaker marked for that unit and checked it : with his meter. It showed 0 volts. I started disconnecting a wire and : got lit up by 240 volts. We tossed his meter and got mine. A cheap : meter can kill you, it certanly will not give you good answers. I have : seen many times that cheap meters lie to you (not accurate) but his was : the worst. : : If you are measuring anything, good tools will give you better answers. : : Stretch : Uhhhh, you used a clamp-on to measure VOLTAGE? Or are you talking about a different kind of cheap meter? (rhetorical only) You used a meter without knowing it worked? Were the cords plugged into the right jacks? Set to measure volts & not OFF or ?? . Sounds like a fishtale to me, especially with your reference to an "appretice" which was probably supposed to lend credibility? Pop |
#17
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On Wed, 18 Jan 2006 04:33:40 GMT, CJT wrote:
Kevtrane wrote: John, I have a question about power meters, I would like to do some consumption monitoring at my house. I see the cheap plug in meters and the $500 Fluke recording multimeters. Is there anything in between? I would like to measure on some 220V appliances and I don;t think that the plug in ones will do it. Any advice? Thanks, Kev Quoted Text "I purchased my own power meter but I understand that some utilities have such equipment for loan to their customers." FWIW, Harbor Freight has some really cheap, serviceable clamp-on ammeters. They won't give you all the information a wattmeter would (especially when power factor is important) but they can nonetheless give you some pretty good clues at very low cost. Can the clamp-on ammeter be used without separating wires? -- Mark Lloyd http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com "Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well armed lamb contesting the vote." - Benjamin Franklin |
#18
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Mark Lloyd wrote:
On Wed, 18 Jan 2006 04:33:40 GMT, CJT wrote: Kevtrane wrote: John, I have a question about power meters, I would like to do some consumption monitoring at my house. I see the cheap plug in meters and the $500 Fluke recording multimeters. Is there anything in between? I would like to measure on some 220V appliances and I don;t think that the plug in ones will do it. Any advice? Thanks, Kev Quoted Text "I purchased my own power meter but I understand that some utilities have such equipment for loan to their customers." FWIW, Harbor Freight has some really cheap, serviceable clamp-on ammeters. They won't give you all the information a wattmeter would (especially when power factor is important) but they can nonetheless give you some pretty good clues at very low cost. Can the clamp-on ammeter be used without separating wires? No, but you can make a short extension cord (or modify an existing one) with a section in which the wires are exposed so that they can be accessed separately. -- The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to minimize spam. Our true address is of the form . |
#19
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Kevtrane wrote:
John, I have a question about power meters, I would like to do some consumption monitoring at my house. I see the cheap plug in meters and the $500 Fluke recording multimeters. Is there anything in between? I would like to measure on some 220V appliances and I don;t think that the plug in ones will do it. Any advice? Thanks, Kev Quoted Text "I purchased my own power meter but I understand that some utilities have such equipment for loan to their customers." I use the cheapest model from Brand Electronics and it does the little I need it to do although having the ability to monitor 240V loads might be occasionally useful to me. Brand does sell a 240V meter but they call it their "whole house" model and with the two current transducers required for the job it costs about $300. There may be others out there and I'm sure that a Google search would turn up something. Measuring true power is a bit trickier than it might appear since it involves monitoring current but without interfering or modifying the circuit unnecessarily, monitoring the voltage, then calculating the true power many times per AC cycle, then integrating and displaying the result. Add to that the $ calculations and long-term integration of results that most users want and the design quickly becomes non-trivial. Of course if the load is purely resistive some shortcuts like using a clamp-on ammeter and a decent RMS voltmeter and doing the calculation for instantaneous power manually but most users would balk at that amount of work. -- John McGaw [Knoxville, TN, USA] http://johnmcgaw.com |
#20
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On Tue, 17 Jan 2006 17:58:04 -0500, John McGaw
wrote: Alex wrote: Hi all, I'm not sure about the rest of the country, but here in Central Texas (specially out in the country) the energy prices are doubling if not more. My dad (who uses the same energy provider as I) got his bill Saturday and it went from $140 the prior month to $270 this month. Mine should be coming in a week or so, and if my usual $200 electric bill is $400 I'm screwed! So with that being said, can someone give suggests I've not thought of to cut the energy bill? Luckily now through the next month or two is good open-window weather for us, but come April the temps start creaping back up and A/C starts coming on. If my electric bill runs $200-$300 with NO A/C or Heat, what're folks supposed to do? My home is all electric, and we've already quit running the dishwasher and we're starting to hang-dry our clothes instead of running dryer. We're buying fluorescent bulbs to replace all the incandescent light bulbs in our house. We've never really left the TV on while not watching, but we do run a little XM Radio for back-ground music while doing stuff around the house. Also I have an older fridge in the garage we use to store sodas andsuch, but I'm pulling the plug on that and putting it in the paper to sell (takes up too much space anyway). What else can I and anyone in my situation do to save some extra bucks on energy? My home is 22 years old and on a concrete foundation. As for insulation, I'm planning on adding another layer to the attic sometime soon. Also I have some french doors I put in not long ago that are sitll roughed out and not well sealed -- so I'm planning on finishing that. As for inside the house, we've bought binds and curtains for all windows and the french doors, which I hope will help. We also have a ceiling fan in our bedroom we run during warmer nights... but that's not enough for those 90'F at 11pm nights we have in the Texas summers. I've even thought about adding a hot water heater timer, but given our hot water heater is only 2 years old and VERY efficient, I don't know if this'll do any real good from what I'm reading. Is there anything I'm missing? Our electric is from a rural Coop, which isn't regulated like others, so I can't switch companies. Also short of adding solar panels or wind-powered generators, not sure what else to do. Thanks for any insight or ideas. Also is this just a Texas thing or across the US? Thanks -- Sam Alex If you want to save power you need to know where it is going. And to do that you will need to measure every major electrical load in your home to figure out which ones are consuming the most and then find some way to reduce those loads without making life intolerable. I purchased my own power meter but I understand that some utilities have such equipment for loan to their customers. In fact your utility may well have an energy audit program where they will come in and tell you where your power/money are going in the home and how to improve the situation. Your idea of unplugging the old fridge is a good idea -- old refrigerators are really major energy hogs compared to new ones. You can pretty safely start using the dishwasher again since most of them are quite efficient -- just don't run it more times in a day than absolutely necessary and turn off the heated dry if you can live without it. And turn off the cabinet heater in the refrigerator. These are often confusingly labeled "energy saver". Where "on" is acutely "off" for the heater. In my area the electrical rates haven't gone up noticeably but the natural gas prices are _way_ up. Water rates are flat but the sewer charges have just about doubled because the utility let the infrastructure fall apart and was forced to fix major problems. -- Mark Lloyd http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com "Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well armed lamb contesting the vote." - Benjamin Franklin |
#21
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![]() "Alex" wrote in message ups.com... Hi all, I'm not sure about the rest of the country, but here in Central Texas (specially out in the country) the energy prices are doubling if not more. My dad (who uses the same energy provider as I) got his bill Saturday and it went from $140 the prior month to $270 this month. Mine should be coming in a week or so, and if my usual $200 electric bill is $400 I'm screwed! So with that being said, can someone give suggests I've not thought of to cut the energy bill? Luckily now through the next month or two is good open-window weather for us, but come April the temps start creaping back up and A/C starts coming on. If my electric bill runs $200-$300 with NO A/C or Heat, what're folks supposed to do? My home is all electric, and we've already quit running the dishwasher and we're starting to hang-dry our clothes instead of running dryer. We're buying fluorescent bulbs to replace all the incandescent light bulbs in our house. We've never really left the TV on while not watching, but we do run a little XM Radio for back-ground music while doing stuff around the house. Also I have an older fridge in the garage we use to store sodas andsuch, but I'm pulling the plug on that and putting it in the paper to sell (takes up too much space anyway). Sounds as if you need to plug up all the unused sockets as the power is running out on the floor :-) From your description you have almost nothing on that uses electricity. It has to be going somewhere or the meter is broken. Look at the meter and turn off all the breakers, then turn them on one at a time and see when the wheel starts turning. That will tell you which circuit is using most of the power, then narrow it down from there. |
#22
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I think you're on the right track. Most folks can cut their energy
consumption in half if they really try. If your climate supports it, having deciduous shade trees on the south side of the house will greatly help summer cooling costs. Energy costs have increased in most areas of the US. Personally, I have cut way back on driving, restaurants, theater, travel, and some "luxury" items. Also, I plan to expand my vegetable garden this year to help reduce grocery bills (I like gardening). There are a few energy conservation websites you can get ideas too. Look at energy consumption costs when replacing an appliance (some of the new TVs consume a lot of KWHrs). On 17 Jan 2006 13:42:02 -0800, "Alex" wrote: Hi all, I'm not sure about the rest of the country, but here in Central Texas (specially out in the country) the energy prices are doubling if not more. My dad (who uses the same energy provider as I) got his bill Saturday and it went from $140 the prior month to $270 this month. Mine should be coming in a week or so, and if my usual $200 electric bill is $400 I'm screwed! So with that being said, can someone give suggests I've not thought of to cut the energy bill? Luckily now through the next month or two is good open-window weather for us, but come April the temps start creaping back up and A/C starts coming on. If my electric bill runs $200-$300 with NO A/C or Heat, what're folks supposed to do? My home is all electric, and we've already quit running the dishwasher and we're starting to hang-dry our clothes instead of running dryer. We're buying fluorescent bulbs to replace all the incandescent light bulbs in our house. We've never really left the TV on while not watching, but we do run a little XM Radio for back-ground music while doing stuff around the house. Also I have an older fridge in the garage we use to store sodas andsuch, but I'm pulling the plug on that and putting it in the paper to sell (takes up too much space anyway). What else can I and anyone in my situation do to save some extra bucks on energy? My home is 22 years old and on a concrete foundation. As for insulation, I'm planning on adding another layer to the attic sometime soon. Also I have some french doors I put in not long ago that are sitll roughed out and not well sealed -- so I'm planning on finishing that. As for inside the house, we've bought binds and curtains for all windows and the french doors, which I hope will help. We also have a ceiling fan in our bedroom we run during warmer nights... but that's not enough for those 90'F at 11pm nights we have in the Texas summers. I've even thought about adding a hot water heater timer, but given our hot water heater is only 2 years old and VERY efficient, I don't know if this'll do any real good from what I'm reading. Is there anything I'm missing? Our electric is from a rural Coop, which isn't regulated like others, so I can't switch companies. Also short of adding solar panels or wind-powered generators, not sure what else to do. Thanks for any insight or ideas. Also is this just a Texas thing or across the US? Thanks -- Sam Alex |
#23
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Alex wrote:
Hi all, I'm not sure about the rest of the country, but here in Central Texas (specially out in the country) the energy prices are doubling if not more. snip I'm in Central Texas, too (Austin), and my house is about 25 years old, so about the same era as yours. I think you're doing many of the right things. But I can tell you from experience that if you have ductwork in your attic, the number one thing to do is to check its integrity and patch any leaks. By doing that (and some other things, most of which you listed), I cut my electricity use in the summer by about 40%. You'd be amazed at how much duct tape (and other materials used in ductwork) can deteriorate in 25 years. I have gas heat; I can imagine that electric heat could be as bad in the winter as AC is in the summer. A programmable thermostat can help, and not only because it can be used to set back temperatures during part of the day -- some (many?) of them also have sufficient "smarts" to keep the system from short-cycling, which is wasteful and potentially harmful to your system. The other thing I should mention is that you'd probably be surprised at how much electricity your computer uses, especially if you have a large CRT monitor. Good luck, and let us know if you come up with any great ideas, because many of us are in this boat. -- The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to minimize spam. Our true address is of the form . |
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On Tue, 17 Jan 2006 23:49:34 GMT, CJT wrote:
Alex wrote: Hi all, I'm not sure about the rest of the country, but here in Central Texas (specially out in the country) the energy prices are doubling if not more. snip I'm in Central Texas, too (Austin), and my house is about 25 years old, so about the same era as yours. Mine's about the same (built about 1969). I think you're doing many of the right things. But I can tell you from experience that if you have ductwork in your attic, the number one thing to do is to check its integrity and patch any leaks. By doing that (and some other things, most of which you listed), I cut my electricity use in the summer by about 40%. You'd be amazed at how much duct tape (and other materials used in ductwork) can deteriorate in 25 years. Somewhere, I heard that one thing duct tape isn't good for is fixing heating ducts. I have gas heat; I can imagine that electric heat could be as bad in the winter as AC is in the summer. I used to live in an all-electric apartment (in East Texas). The electric bills peaked in both summer and winter. IIRC both peaks were the same height. I have gas in this house, and there's a significant difference. BTW, the gas bill I got after Christmas was the highest I've ever had although a neighbor with a similar house had one for more than twice that. A programmable thermostat can help, and not only because it can be used to set back temperatures during part of the day -- some (many?) of them also have sufficient "smarts" to keep the system from short-cycling, which is wasteful and potentially harmful to your system. I know that's a problem for compressors. How would it effect gas or electric heat? The other thing I should mention is that you'd probably be surprised at how much electricity your computer uses, especially if you have a large CRT monitor. It's a good idea to turn the monitor off when you're not using it. Your system can probably be set to do this automatically. Note that a "screen saver" does not turn the monitor off, and does not save energy. I don't do this, because my monitors are connected to X10 modules, and are automatically turned on/off with the other things (lights, fans, TVs, ...). Good luck, and let us know if you come up with any great ideas, because many of us are in this boat. -- Mark Lloyd http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com "Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well armed lamb contesting the vote." - Benjamin Franklin |
#25
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Mark Lloyd wrote:
On Tue, 17 Jan 2006 23:49:34 GMT, CJT wrote: snip A programmable thermostat can help, and not only because it can be used to set back temperatures during part of the day -- some (many?) of them also have sufficient "smarts" to keep the system from short-cycling, which is wasteful and potentially harmful to your system. I know that's a problem for compressors. How would it effect gas or electric heat? I had AC in mind. I doubt it would help with heat, although starting and stopping the furnace fan probably uses a fair amount of electricity. snip -- The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to minimize spam. Our true address is of the form . |
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On Wed, 18 Jan 2006 18:30:48 GMT, CJT wrote:
Mark Lloyd wrote: On Tue, 17 Jan 2006 23:49:34 GMT, CJT wrote: snip A programmable thermostat can help, and not only because it can be used to set back temperatures during part of the day -- some (many?) of them also have sufficient "smarts" to keep the system from short-cycling, which is wasteful and potentially harmful to your system. I know that's a problem for compressors. How would it effect gas or electric heat? I had AC in mind. I doubt it would help with heat, although starting and stopping the furnace fan probably uses a fair amount of electricity. How about an electric igniter? My furnace uses one of those. It's easy to tell when you know what high-voltage wiring looks like (like the spark plug wires in a car). snip -- Mark Lloyd http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com "Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well armed lamb contesting the vote." - Benjamin Franklin |
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Mark Lloyd wrote:
On Wed, 18 Jan 2006 18:30:48 GMT, CJT wrote: Mark Lloyd wrote: On Tue, 17 Jan 2006 23:49:34 GMT, CJT wrote: snip A programmable thermostat can help, and not only because it can be used to set back temperatures during part of the day -- some (many?) of them also have sufficient "smarts" to keep the system from short-cycling, which is wasteful and potentially harmful to your system. I know that's a problem for compressors. How would it effect gas or electric heat? I had AC in mind. I doubt it would help with heat, although starting and stopping the furnace fan probably uses a fair amount of electricity. How about an electric igniter? My furnace uses one of those. It's easy to tell when you know what high-voltage wiring looks like (like the spark plug wires in a car). snip I think it would be very interesting to know all the things folks like Honeywell considered when they designed the algorithms for their programmable thermostats. I suspect there's a lot more technology in there than the instruction manual reveals. Whether electric igniters have their own issues is beyond my expertise. -- The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to minimize spam. Our true address is of the form . |
#28
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Hi CJT,
Awesome comments! How would I go about checking my duct work in the attic? I can definitely get up there and eyeball it, but is that the best way to check it? I've seen on TV where folks use those cameras that detect heat or cool, but that's abit more then I can afford. Also I'll definitely look into getting a programmable thermostat. I do prefer it cooler in the evenings and warmer in the mornings, so might be something to look into. As for the computer, I used to be the kinda comptuer guy who left his computer on ALL the time, but I'm getting away from that. My wife's computer does stay on, but the power save is on so it shuts off after like 15 minutes. My PowerMac gets turned off when not in use, and both of use use LCD monitors. Thanks again for the great comments, and please let me know how you checked your duct work in the attic... I'd love any tips, and now that it's cooler now's the time to get up there ![]() Sam |
#29
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Alex wrote:
Hi CJT, Awesome comments! How would I go about checking my duct work in the attic? I can definitely get up there and eyeball it, but is that the best way to check it? I've seen on TV where folks use those cameras that detect heat or cool, but that's abit more then I can afford. Also I'll definitely look into getting a programmable thermostat. I do prefer it cooler in the evenings and warmer in the mornings, so might be something to look into. As for the computer, I used to be the kinda comptuer guy who left his computer on ALL the time, but I'm getting away from that. My wife's computer does stay on, but the power save is on so it shuts off after like 15 minutes. My PowerMac gets turned off when not in use, and both of use use LCD monitors. Thanks again for the great comments, and please let me know how you checked your duct work in the attic... I'd love any tips, and now that it's cooler now's the time to get up there ![]() Sam Mine was so bad that at first I could see the duct tape flapping in the breeze from the air escaping the ducts when the furnace fan was on. Once I had the worst spots fixed it became more challenging, but I could still often feel the cool breeze of my air conditioning dollars escaping as I ran my hand along the ductwork. I used the UL listed aluminum tape for the repairs, and it is MUCH better than regular duct tape (which is pretty worthless for sealing ducts) -- well worth the $15 +/- per roll. You might want to investigate whether your local codes require anything specific (e.g. mastic) in specific applications. -- The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to minimize spam. Our true address is of the form . |
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Alex wrote:
So with that being said, can someone give suggests I've not thought of to cut the energy bill? Luckily now through the next month or two is good open-window weather for us, but come April the temps start creaping back up and A/C starts coming on. If my electric bill runs $200-$300 with NO A/C or Heat, what're folks supposed to do? What else can I and anyone in my situation do to save some extra bucks on energy? As for inside the house, we've bought binds and curtains for all windows and the french doors, which I hope will help. We also have a ceiling fan in our bedroom we run during warmer nights... but that's not enough for those 90'F at 11pm nights we have in the Texas summers. Bingo! Why cool the whole house when everybody's in the bedroom asleep? Think efficient window unit for sleeping. You can get a 110VAC unit at Walmart for ~$150. You'll save that much the first month. |
#31
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Look into sealing leaks in your ductwork and leaks in your attic.
see: http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?...vement_sealing "Alex" wrote in message ups.com... Hi all, I'm not sure about the rest of the country, but here in Central Texas (specially out in the country) the energy prices are doubling if not more. My dad (who uses the same energy provider as I) got his bill Saturday and it went from $140 the prior month to $270 this month. Mine should be coming in a week or so, and if my usual $200 electric bill is $400 I'm screwed! So with that being said, can someone give suggests I've not thought of to cut the energy bill? Luckily now through the next month or two is good open-window weather for us, but come April the temps start creaping back up and A/C starts coming on. If my electric bill runs $200-$300 with NO A/C or Heat, what're folks supposed to do? My home is all electric, and we've already quit running the dishwasher and we're starting to hang-dry our clothes instead of running dryer. We're buying fluorescent bulbs to replace all the incandescent light bulbs in our house. We've never really left the TV on while not watching, but we do run a little XM Radio for back-ground music while doing stuff around the house. Also I have an older fridge in the garage we use to store sodas andsuch, but I'm pulling the plug on that and putting it in the paper to sell (takes up too much space anyway). What else can I and anyone in my situation do to save some extra bucks on energy? My home is 22 years old and on a concrete foundation. As for insulation, I'm planning on adding another layer to the attic sometime soon. Also I have some french doors I put in not long ago that are sitll roughed out and not well sealed -- so I'm planning on finishing that. As for inside the house, we've bought binds and curtains for all windows and the french doors, which I hope will help. We also have a ceiling fan in our bedroom we run during warmer nights... but that's not enough for those 90'F at 11pm nights we have in the Texas summers. I've even thought about adding a hot water heater timer, but given our hot water heater is only 2 years old and VERY efficient, I don't know if this'll do any real good from what I'm reading. Is there anything I'm missing? Our electric is from a rural Coop, which isn't regulated like others, so I can't switch companies. Also short of adding solar panels or wind-powered generators, not sure what else to do. Thanks for any insight or ideas. Also is this just a Texas thing or across the US? Thanks -- Sam Alex |
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"Alex" wrote in news:1137534122.377815.22190
@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com: [snip] Thanks for any insight or ideas. Good start on saving energy. Big cost items are usually those that involve heating/cooling: Find and seal all leaks in your house. This one is a biggy, since extra insulation won't do much good if the warm (or cool) air just leaks through the holes. This can be a big job. Put in a setback thermostat. Every degree less saves you some energy -- it's noticeable. Since you are in a warm climate, you can probably look at area (or room) heating. Lots less energy required than heating the entire house. |
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#34
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"1. Alex Jan 17, 4:42 pm
If my electric bill runs $200-$300 with NO A/C or Heat, what're folks supposed to do? " You didn't tell us what your electric rate is or how big your house is, but this sounds very high for a typical house without using electric for AC or heat. I second the idea previously suggested of finding out exactly how much power you are really using, where it's going and figuring out if the meter is correct. |
#35
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Hi Everyone,
Thanks for the great advice and feedback! Someone said I didn't give much info on my home, electric rate, etc. My home was built around 1982 and is 1600 sqft. It's on a concrete slab with an attic spanning the entire length of the house. It's also all electric with central air and heat. The house was built with small 35"x35" windows in the bedrooms and a 35"x70" window in the living room -- all about 4 feet off the ground. I was told this house was built during the early 80's 'energy crunch', so I'd think this would help. We have curtains and blinds in every window though. The biggest thing I think that's pinging us is the french doors I put in our dining room/kitchen (pretty much the same room). They're all glass doors, but we have drapes over them. I also didn't finish out the doors, so though there's no gaping huge hole, it's not sealed all that well. I'm sealing and finishing this next paycheck. I'm not sure how insulation is rated, but I'll get into my attic and measure the thickness of the insulation. Also we have a three bedroom house, but one bedroom is a guest room we rarely use. Would it be practical to close the air vent in this room and keep the door closed? I'd say that room is about 300 sqft, so that'd mean we're heating/cooling only 1300 sqft instead of 1600. As for the dishwasher, I do have a new one (about one year old), and it does have the option to turn off heated drying. I'll start using that instead. Also the clothes dryer is in a utility room, so I'll close the vent in there and keep that door shut when being used. That might help alittle too. I think the key is getting the house better insulated. I'm not sure if there's anyway to better insulate the walls and windows (short of replacing the windows which is $$$), but I do plan on getting more insulation for the attic. Thanks again for all the feedback... Sam |
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![]() "Alex" wrote in message Thanks for the great advice and feedback! Someone said I didn't give much info on my home, electric rate, etc. My home was built around 1982 and is 1600 sqft. It's on a concrete slab with an attic spanning the entire length of the house. It's also all electric with central air and heat. My house is the same size and built in 1978. My electric rate was .15 kWh and my last bill was $159 for December, no heat (except running the burner) I have two refrigerators, freezer, wine fridge, electric dryer. Last month the consumption was 1080 kWh. December required more lighting and since my grandson moved in with us the bill jumped about $30 for dryer use more than anything. (not to mention the food bill) |
#37
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Hi Everyone,
I just called my electric coop, and they're charging 13.75 cents per kWh. I'll check my next bill, which comes out on the 19th, and see what my useage is for the last 30 days. I sure hope it's not too crazy because I can see the costs inching up. I found this site that is great: http://michaelbluejay.com/electricity/howmuch.html I'll be keeping a spreadsheet of our used kilowatt hours per month and seeing what I can do to shave the price. I'm also looking into further insulation for the attic and plugging the places where hot and cool air leave the house. It still doesn't help that my central air and heating system is almost 22 years old... I'm sure that thing SUCKS the power. Oh hum -- one more worry in life I didn't need :-/ Sam |
#38
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Whoa there on the dryer.
Here are a couple of things to be aware of: 1. If your clothes take longer that 30-45 minutes to dry, your vent is clogged. See www.CleanYourOwnDryerVent.com and 2. DO NOT close the utility room door while the dryer is running. It needs at least 100 sq inches of open space to draw in relacement air - air to replace what is being blown out the back of the dryer. By closing the utility room door, your dryer will work harder, use more electricity and wear out sooner. |
#39
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Hi --
Thanks for the input and the link, but though the website you linked to has some great info, why do they want $24.95 to get their PDF? Also is there such a thing as a "Certified Dryer Exhaust Technician"? Sounds like a scam to me... I agree with you that possibly leaving the laundry room door closed might not be such a good idea, but in no place I've lived have I ever had a full load of clothes dry in 30-45 minutes. Maybe a pair of jeans and a few shirts or some towels, but never an entire load. My dryer is about 5 years old and takes about 60 minutes for a full load (4-5 pairs of jeans, 4-5 shirts, and maybe some shorts mixed in). I'll check my dryer vent this weekend, but with the amount of lent it throws out into my back yard plus the steamy air that comes out on cold days I doubt it's clogged to much if any. Thanks for the info -- Sam |
#40
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Sam wrote:
"As for the dishwasher, I do have a new one (about one year old), and it does have the option to turn off heated drying. I'll start using that instead. Also the clothes dryer is in a utility room, so I'll close the vent in there and keep that door shut when being used. That might help alittle too. " Sam, closing off all air inlets to the laundry room could be a bad idea. In order to dry clothes efficiently, air is blown through the wet clothes, then exhausted outside. Where is the air for your dryer coming from? If you use outside air, the cool drying temperatures may not work very well. Stretch |
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