"Jim McLaughlin" jim.mclaughlin wrote in message
news
There's a home repair radio show around here (Portland, Oregon) where a
guy
touts a dry mixture, 1/3 each by volume, of boraxo, baker's yeast and
powdered confectioners sugar, well mixed . Says to put it on small
plastic
tops from things like a Planters nuts can in areas where the ants appear.

Guy claims that the sugar and to a certain extent the yeast attract the
critters who march through the stuff and bring the sugar and yeast and
borax
back to the nests / colonies / hives whatever. The ants eat the east
which
with a little moisture expands the yeast and kills the ants, as does the
boraxx on their bodies.

I've never tried it and have no idea if it works, but it sure souds like a
good theory.

For years all we've ever used for ant control is equal parts of Borax and
confectioners sugar, applied with a dollar store catsup squeeze bottle with
a nozzle. Never heard of the yeast being added though.

Liz

Charles Spitzer wrote:

"Keith Williams" wrote in message
T...

In article ,
says...

"Joseph Meehan" wrote in message


My source says

Borax is Na2B4O7-10H2O, Hydrated sodium borate

Boric acid is H3BO3

Now I'm all confused. Acids to me are liquid. The formula I saw for ant
poison mantioned Boric Acid in powder (or similar).

Not all acids are liquid. Tannic Acid is another dry acid.



another is oxalic acid, used by woodworkers to neutralize tannic acid.

How does one acid "neutralize" another?


Mabye a scouting trip is needed to see what's what.

--
Keith





--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

Somewhere further down thread a poster was talking about "protein" ants
and "sugar" ants and that bait for one would not work on the other. I
wonder if the yeastpart is to add a "protein" component to the cncoction so
that it would work on either variety of ant?

Like I said, I've never used the recipie, but have heard this homeowner's
advice guy on a local radio station recommend it for years.

--
Jim McLaughlin

Reply address is deliberately munged.
If you really need to reply directly, try:
jimdotmclaughlinatcomcastdotcom

And you know it is a dotnet not a dotcom
address.
"Liz" wrote in message
...

"Jim McLaughlin" jim.mclaughlin wrote in message
news
There's a home repair radio show around here (Portland, Oregon) where a
guy
touts a dry mixture, 1/3 each by volume, of boraxo, baker's yeast and
powdered confectioners sugar, well mixed . Says to put it on small
plastic
tops from things like a Planters nuts can in areas where the ants
appear.

Guy claims that the sugar and to a certain extent the yeast attract the
critters who march through the stuff and bring the sugar and yeast and
borax
back to the nests / colonies / hives whatever. The ants eat the east
which
with a little moisture expands the yeast and kills the ants, as does
the
boraxx on their bodies.

I've never tried it and have no idea if it works, but it sure souds like
a
good theory.

For years all we've ever used for ant control is equal parts of Borax and
confectioners sugar, applied with a dollar store catsup squeeze bottle
with
a nozzle. Never heard of the yeast being added though.

Liz

Keith Williams wrote:
In article , says...
Hi,

Where does one buy Boric Acid? Local hardware store did not have
it. Would like to mix my own for ant control.

The grocery store (think Borax).

Borax isn't boric acid.

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

RichK wrote:
Hi,

Where does one buy Boric Acid? Local hardware store did not have it.
Would like to mix my own for ant control.

Rich

Drug store. Maybe supermarket.

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

With all the effective ant sprays why brew your own?

I was selling a home and the buyer complained there were ants
outdoors...

yep thats where they live... er lived.

one gallon of ant spray in a pump container with a sprayer did them in
almost instantly.

I actually felt bad the ants werrent causing any problem and are normal
part of environment. but it was a big issue for buyer So I HAD to
wipe them out

With all the effective ant sprays why brew your own?

I was selling a home and the buyer complained there were ants
outdoors...

yep thats where they live... er lived.

one gallon of ant spray in a pump container with a sprayer did them in
almost instantly.

I actually felt bad the ants werrent causing any problem and are normal
part of environment. but it was a big issue for buyer So I HAD to
wipe them out

With all the effective ant sprays why brew your own?

I was selling a home and the buyer complained there were ants
outdoors...

yep thats where they live... er lived.

one gallon of ant spray in a pump container with a sprayer did them in
almost instantly.

I actually felt bad the ants werrent causing any problem and are normal
part of environment. but it was a big issue for buyer So I HAD to
wipe them out

dadiOH wrote:
RichK wrote:

Hi,

Where does one buy Boric Acid? Local hardware store did not have it.
Would like to mix my own for ant control.

Rich


Drug store. Maybe supermarket.

As another poster pointed out, many drug stores have morphed into
something more like old time general stores, but a decent one should
still have Boric Acid. It's used as an eye wash.

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

RichK wrote:
Hi,

Where does one buy Boric Acid? Local hardware store did not have it. Would
like to mix my own for ant control.

Rich


There is almost always an inexpensive, generic boric acid and sugar ant
bait at hardware and home stores. Works very well, and can be adapted
for grease ants.

In article , Keith Williams wrote:
In article , says...
Hi,

Where does one buy Boric Acid? Local hardware store did not have it. Would
like to mix my own for ant control.

The grocery store (think Borax).

Try again. Borax is sodium borate, not boric acid.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

In article , "RichK" wrote:

Where does one buy Boric Acid? Local hardware store did not have it. Would
like to mix my own for ant control.

Try a pharmacy.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

In article , Keith Williams wrote:
In article , says...
Thanks Keith,

"Keith Williams" wrote in message

Where does one buy Boric Acid? Local hardware store did not have it.
Would
like to mix my own for ant control.

The grocery store (think Borax).

Would have never made the connection. Is Borax a 100% boric acid.

It was at one time. I suspect it still is (the stuff is cheap to
make). Look at a box.

Wrong. It isn't boric acid, and it never was. It's sodium borate.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

In article 2006011401222275249-nobody@verizonnet,
says...
after all about 1/5 of a tablespoon of BA will have a 50% chance of
killing a 2.2 lb animal.

well, i guess all the animals i care about are bigger than a kilo
(assuming your figures above are correct, which i don't, sorry)


Well, assuming you are familiar with a number all chemicals are given
which will allow them to be compared to other chemicals.. the LD50 is
how many milligrams of a chemical that it takes to kill 50% of test
subjects per 1 kilogram. The smaller the number the more toxic. I.E. 1
tablespoon of boric acid (LD50 2660) is more toxic than a tablespoon
consisting table salt (LD50 3700). With BA having a LD50 of 2660 it is
easy enough to figure out since there are roughly 14175 milligrams in a
tablespoon, just under 1/5 (2660 mg) is enough to have a 50% chance of
killing a 2.2 lb (or 1 kilogram) creature.

--
Lar

Oh, if only Noah would of been a bit more wise,
he surely would of swatted those two flies.

to email....get rid of the BUGS

Well, it used to be on the shelves of every drugstore. But now that
drugstores are stocked with toys, food, liquor, holiday decorations,
hardware, etc. etc. I don't really know if you can buy it there or not.

Sure Drug Storesa sell Boric Acid.... if not in stock then they can
get in in 24 hours usually..

I am a semi retired Pharmacist...and I do have to agree with you on
selling toys food and Liquor...mainly because there is no profit in
filling Rx's anymore... PERIOD... Honestly with most Insuirance
companies paying less then 5 dollars above the cost of an RX
and not paying for the containers, labels etc it is extremely rare to
even get a GROSS profit of 15 percent... Toys produce 50 percent
profit margins, food & Liquuor slightly less.

Enjoy and sometimes I wish they sold Liquor where I work one evening a
week because I need a stiff dribk after dealing with Insuramnce
proplems... Ever try to get a new Medicare Rx thru the system? oh
make that drink a double...

Bob G.

On Fri, 13 Jan 2006 21:01:16 GMT, – Colonel –
wrote:

On 2006-01-13 15:01:51 -0500, Keith Williams said:

The grocery store (think Borax).

Would have never made the connection. Is Borax a 100% boric acid.

No, it's mostly sodium borate, but I know from experience that both work.

I think Boraxo powerdered hand soap/clearner is a lot more expensive
that boric acid, if only because it's sold for people and not for
roaches.

I haven't compared prices however..

You can also buy boric acid in 1-pound yellow plastic squeeze bottles,
labeled as "Roach Killer," in most dollar stores.

Before there were dollar stores, I used boric acid for roaches.
Worked pretty well, and I didn't bother to put it where it showed.
Only behind the stove (which was also the pathway to the rest of the
apartment.)

I still needed a can of liquid with a squirter to get into other
places, like peeling wall paper. The peeling was small and high and
didn't bother me, but the roaches lived in the cracks. Finally bombed
them and they all died.


Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let
me know if you have posted also.

On Fri, 13 Jan 2006 14:40:50 -0500, "RichK" wrote:

Hi,

Where does one buy Boric Acid? Local hardware store did not have it. Would
like to mix my own for ant control.

What would you mix it from?

Boron and hydrogen?

Rich



Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let
me know if you have posted also.

In article 2006011410364375249-nobody@verizonnet,
says...
On 2006-01-14 10:20:39 -0500, Lar said:

In article 2006011401222275249-nobody@verizonnet, says...
after all about 1/5 of a tablespoon of BA will have a 50% chance
of killing a 2.2 lb animal.
well, i guess all the animals i care about are bigger than a
kilo (assuming your figures above are correct, which i don't, sorry)
Well, assuming you are familiar with a number all chemicals are
given which will allow them to be compared to other chemicals.. the
LD50 is how many milligrams of a chemical that it takes to kill 50% of
test subjects per 1 kilogram. The smaller the number the more toxic.
I.E. 1 tablespoon of boric acid (LD50 2660) is more toxic than a
tablespoon consisting table salt (LD50 3700). With BA having a LD50 of
2660 it is easy enough to figure out since there are roughly 14175
milligrams in a tablespoon, just under 1/5 (2660 mg) is enough to have
a 50% chance of killing a 2.2 lb (or 1 kilogram) creature.

well, let's see, Einstein:

i weigh about 80 kilos.

that means i would need to eat (1/5) x 80 or 16 Tablespoons (which
equals one CUP) of boric acid to have a 50% chance of croaking.

ant baits use about 1/2 tsp of BA per cup of bait.

1/2 tsp = 1/6 Tbsp.

that means that to consume 16 Tablespoons of BA, i would need to eat
approximately 96 cups or SIX GALLONS of prepared ant bait to have a 50%
chance of croaking.

gee, i guess you're right: this IS a TERRIBLE, TERRIBLE DANGER!



O.K. Brainiac..right about what? Where did I type that using boric acid
ant bait puts one in terrible danger. Follow the thread you'll see
where I asked why go the hassle of making it when there are numerous
alternatives that are as safe if not safer than making a mixture ranging
from 8%-33% (which most directions seem to be). You responded earlier
that I am wrong because you have failed using commercial baits (a trick
if it is the "disk" type baits would be to dunk them under warm water
for a second to freshen them up) and have had success using home made
mixtures, well I make my living using commercial baits/treatments. Being
self employed, it would only make since for me to use the most cost
efficient and effective products be it bought or I make the mixture
myself. I guess with as an elaborate reply you posted you have changed
your mind and assume my figures were correct..... In your situation you
may not be worried about yourself eating the cup worth of BA, but what
about countless others that hear nothing but how safe boric acid is to
use around the home...boric acid is harmless... when what I often see in
homes I visit is a jar lid of jelly bait on the floor or counter top in
easy access of a kitten/dog/child that does weigh quite a bit less than
your 175 lbs or so and there is no antidote for borate poisoning.
--
Lar

Oh, if only Noah would of been a bit more wise,
he surely would of swatted those two flies.

to email....get rid of the BUGS

In article 2006011410470750073-nobody@verizonnet, ?B?4oCTIENvbG9uZWwg4oCT?= wrote:
On 2006-01-14 10:20:39 -0500, Lar said:

since there are roughly 14175 milligrams in a tablespoon

a tablespoon of boric acid weighs a HALF OUNCE???

i don't know where you get YOUR boric acid (Department of Energy,
maybe?) but MY boric acid weighs about FOUR grams/Tbsp., not 14.

Actually, you're *both* wrong.

The density of boric acid is 2.486 g/cc. One tablespoon = 14.78 cc. Thus one
tablespoon of boric acid has a mass of slighly less than 6 grams.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

In article , Lar wrote:

Well, assuming you are familiar with a number all chemicals are given
which will allow them to be compared to other chemicals.. the LD50 is
how many milligrams of a chemical that it takes to kill 50% of test
subjects per 1 kilogram. The smaller the number the more toxic. I.E. 1
tablespoon of boric acid (LD50 2660) is more toxic than a tablespoon
consisting table salt (LD50 3700). With BA having a LD50 of 2660 it is
easy enough to figure out since there are roughly 14175 milligrams in a
tablespoon, just under 1/5 (2660 mg) is enough to have a 50% chance of
killing a 2.2 lb (or 1 kilogram) creature.

Try again. One tablespoon is 14.78 cc. Boric acid weighs 2.486 g/cc, or
slightly less than 6 grams per tablespoon -- not fourteen.

You're also ignoring the fact that the LD50 varies from species to species, in
some cases considerably. LD50 numbers are *never* expressed simply as "LD50"
by those who understand what they mean: invariably, they are expressed as
"LD50 in mice", "... in rabbits", or in whatever species was tested.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

On Fri, 13 Jan 2006 14:40:50 -0500, "RichK"
wrote:

Hi,

Where does one buy Boric Acid? Local hardware store did not have it. Would
like to mix my own for ant control.


Here, in great central valley of California (Mediteranian
climate), I bought a white, plastic bottle, with spout-tip,
of "Boric Acid Roach Killer III" (1 pound, powder), branded
"PIC Corporation", www.pic-corp.com
Linden, N.J.

I bought this because I could have *sworn* that the
"Terro(c) Ant Killer" liquid that I had been buying, listed
the active ingredient as boric acid. But now, after buying
more Terro, I see the Active Ingredient is listed as:

Sodium Tetraborate Decohydrate (borax) 5.40%

Terro comes from:

Senoret Chemical Company, Inc.
St. Louis, MO 63122
www.terro.com


I've had good results with the Terro stuff, when I take a
few extra steps, to stave off the autumn onslaught of the
small (1/8 inch), black, Argentinian (I think) invaders.

Every fall, when the first cold rain comes to the valley,
these little guys panic. I think it's because they don't do
well in the cold--they slow down as the temp gets down to
50F, and get really stiff and slow when it gets near 40F. A
good freeze (rare here), will decimate a colony that hasn't
found a protected location, and they don't seem to be
adapted to that situation. And cold rain is just too much
for them, so they have to find good shelter. So a nice
warm, dry house is just the ticket. They can probably make
do in the ground, but a house is better.

They are so small, a bread-crum is a big deal to them, and
there's usually enough stuff like that on my kitchen floor
to create a real harvest. And if I've gotten lazy, and left
some dirty dishes lying around, I've provided them with
enough bounty to cause the population of their colony to
quadruple or more. I think that a lot of food causes the
queens to just eat and poop eggs--fast. An unprotected,
outside garbage can can cause a colony of thousands to blow
up into millions, spinning off new colonies that need
someplace to go--like my house.

These little buggers don't do the normal fly and mate thing,
they mate right in the colony, and multiple queens are the
norm. And they seem to have no predators in this area,
except maybe for me. Give them ample food, and they'll
reproduce like... well... people! I *suspect* that a
sudden, unlimited increase in their food supply can cause a
doubling of the colony population in 5 days. An r-rated
species, on steroids! That's part of their species survival
strategy--they form huge colonies, food permitting, spin off
additional queens and colonies, and remain cooperative
amongs the colonies. They seem to feast on anything that I
eat, be it sweet or fat, milk or honey, bread or cereal. Not
so sure about vegetables, tho. Here, they are one of the
most invasive, exotic ant species. Even tho it seems
impossible for a human to feel any kind of bite from them,
they will eliminate every other ant species wherever they
are able to make a living. I've read that their communal
colonies can stretch accross counties, and that they will
invade other ant colonies and even bee-hives, killing or
driving off their inhabitants by sheer numbers, sometimes
losing *millions* of their own in the process. I have no
qualms about trying to exterpate them wherever I can.

One time, they were making tracks across my garage floor,
from one corner to the opposite--about twenty feet of trail,
about 6 or 8 abreast, on average. I decided to experiment
by vacuuming them up with the shop-vac. I sucked up the
entire trail, repeating the process about every two (waking)
hours for three days. That's when I noticed the odor in the
garage. When I popped the lid off the shop-vac, it was
about six inches deep in these tiny buggers, and the stench
was amazing! Now I wish I had scouped some into a small,
graduated container, and counted the contents. Then I could
have done some more word to get a real estimate of the
number in that shop-vac. If I try to imagine how many would
be in a cubic inch, by first imagining how many there would
be in the top 1/10th of the cubic inch, I'd guess around
5,000/ci. The inside diameter of the vac canister is about
16.5". So 16.5" x 6" gives a volume of a little over 408
ci. So that's something like 2,042,000 ants. The track
accross the garage was still going, not quite as strong as
at first. That's the first time that I'm aware of having
killed over 2 million of anything.


So here's what I do.

First of all, I try to make sure that I'm not providing them
with *any* food. I periodically check the garbage can, and
if I see Argentinians getting into it, I spray it down with
soapy water, and the same for any trails leading away from
it, for as far as I can follow them. I *try* to keep my
house clean, but when I see the first storm approaching in
the fall, I go on a real cleaning binge. Cereal boxes and
the like get moved into the fridge (they can chew thru the
cardboard and plastic bags to get the cereal).

When I see the first intruders, I put out the boric
acid-based (or borax-based) baits as close to the point of
entry as I can get it.

I try to make sure that the *only* edible thing they can
find on my property is either a natural food source, or my
baits. And if it's cold and pouring rain, they probably
aren't going to be getting any natural foods, especially if
they've moved their colonies into my house walls or attic.

I'm just starting to experiment with making my own baits, so
have no data to offer there. A few years ago, the Terro
folks started offering their mix in exquisitely-designed
plastic traps. The design is good, because it limits the
air-flow past the liquid, and extends the dry-out time. They
also have a perfect little ramp for the ants to walk up, to
get into the bait-well. That's probably a moot point, as
these ants will find anything that tastes good, anywhere you
put it, except for the refridgerator. I think the traps
cost around $5 US for a box of six traps. Being a
tight-wad, I'm going to try rinsing out the used traps and
putting my own mix in. Quite a few ants will be so
overtaken with the bounty of the bait that they seem to
drown in the liquid, and the stuff tends to dry out a bit
over time, so it's a real pain to get them cleaned up. I've
done this to a couple of traps so far, but they both ended
up leaking, so I might just go back to putting the mix on
plastic lids, squares of cardboard, or whatever is
available. It's also quite a trick to get the liquid *into*
the traps.

With factory Terro traps, used against a colony of
Argentinians without a good food supply, the results can
come fast. I've seen the traps get swarmed with thousands
of ants, and within around three hours, I can tell that
something is amis--they just aren't moving like they were at
first. After twelve hours, the numbers are starting to drop
noticably. After 24 hours, there's just a slow trickle, and
they're not scouting the rest of the house anymore. At one
week, there are still a few dozen ants going for the bait,
but no ants in the rest of the house, and the ones going for
the bait are not moving so good.

This fall, I managed to almost completely keep them out of
my larders, and quickly put the baits out when assault
started. Just putting out two of the Terro traps (one at
each of the two entry-points) halted the invasion, and I
think the colony involved must've gotten hit pretty hard by
the poison--it's been a month since I've seen one anywhere
but in the traps, or going directly to/from the traps.

Geez, how'd I get started on this, anyway? ;-)

Bottom line for this species: don't let 'em eat anything
but poisoned bait!
--
tbl

Hate to butt in here but, before I pull my eyes out, Ants are very
picky when it comes to food.
Different times of the year they require a completely unique food type.
During the winter when they are not reproducing then they only require
water. Sugar is a treat they will take you up on at all times of the
year. The Ants you see running around now are probably just seeking
shelter and water. Household ants aren't going to be attracted to
yeast; they won't consume it if it was the last food source on earth.(
there maybe some exotic ant that eats yeast but I an assuming you
don't live in a rain forest) Worker Ants don't digest solid food they
take it back to the larvae which are just wormy stomachs. They digest
the solids and convert it to liquid to be ingested by the colony. You
hear these wise tales about ants eating grits and exploding. Not going
to happen, same with yeast. Ants don't wake up and crave toast.
Commercial Ant Baits do work you just have to know what the ants are
attracted too at the time. Yes, store bought baits and traps are
misleading they all seem to state total colony elimination quick and
easy. But it is just advertising B.S.
Ant Control is a long process and unfortunately most people don't
have the patience required to deal with it. They are all looking for a
magic bullet. Trust me if there was a magic bullet it would be
available to the marketplace. My company produces "commercial bait"
but we don't advertise it to be the magic bullet, only a tool in the
arsenal. If you want to use home made bait that you feel is superior to
commercial brands give them what they seek, water and treat them to
sugar. Make a mess enjoy yourself.
I prefer fresh squeezed orange juice but it only took me a few times to
do it too realize that taking a cap off a carton takes far less time
and effort and the taste difference of fresh squeezed to store bought
just didn't outweigh the frustration.

But to answer the original post, just use the cheep roach dust boric
acid found everywhere. A little goes a long way. First find something
the ants will be attracted too then just add as little as a teaspoon to
a cup of attractant mix it in well and let em go at it.

Then start looking for moisture issues in your house to find a reason
they are there to begin with. Ants are only a symptom to an underlying
problem.

Several others have said where to get boric acid. So, I'll change the
subject again. I've had excellent results with liquid ant bait from
www.gardensalive.com which is a blue liquid, comes in about two ounce
dropper bottle. I'd had a pest control company tell me that carpenter ants
come dropping off the trees, nearly impossible to control, and it would take
several hundred dollars of spraying and repeat applications. Less than a
bottle of liquid ant bait later, and I don't have carpenter ants any more.
And I got to keep my several hundred dollars.

Their pantry pest traps work nicely on Indian mealworms, too.

--

Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
..

"RichK" wrote in message
...
Hi,

Where does one buy Boric Acid? Local hardware store did not have it. Would
like to mix my own for ant control.

Rich

Doing all of that sound MORE complicated than rocket science !!!!


On Sat, 14 Jan 2006 06:44:06 GMT, – Colonel –
wrote:

On 2006-01-13 14:40:50 -0500, "RichK" said:

Hi,

Where does one buy Boric Acid? Local hardware store did not have it. Would
like to mix my own for ant control.

Rich

OK, this whole thread is outta control.

For crying out loud, this isnt rocket science.

Put some coca cola into a stainless steel or glass pan. Heat. Add
sugar. Add corn syrup/Karo. Add some rasp jelly. Add some bacon fat or
hamburger grease. Throw in a few dog or cat food kibbles. Add just a
little (say a 1/4 tsp per cup) of borax/boric acid/WHATEVER BORATE YOU
WANT. IT DOESN"T MATTER.

Bring it slowly to a boil. Stir.

OK, now you need:

1) Clean jars (mayo, jam, wahtevah)
2) Cotton balls or rags or something absorbent and fluffy
3) Screwdriver

Take the lid of your clean jar and stab a hole with your trusty screwdriver.
Decant the gooey coke/sugar/fat/borax solution into the jar.
Throw in your cotton balls or rags or fluffy absorbent material and
shake it around so the crap is saturated with gook.
Find your trusty ants and grab some with your hand and throw them into
the jar. DO NOT KILL THEM. The more the better, but you need at least
one to make it back to the colony. He will make the stink-trail back to
the jar so that zillions of others can carry the borax/BORATE/WHATEVAH
back to the colony and feed the queen.

If they like your recipe (whatever it is) you will need enough to feed
them for 2-4 weeks.

Then they will stop coming back.

On Fri, 13 Jan 2006 14:40:50 -0500, "RichK" wrote:

Hi,

Where does one buy Boric Acid? Local hardware store did not have it. Would
like to mix my own for ant control.

Rich

try a drugstore. goodluck!



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On Fri, 13 Jan 2006 14:40:50 -0500, "RichK" wrote:

Hi,

Where does one buy Boric Acid? Local hardware store did not have it. Would
like to mix my own for ant control.

Rich

Rich. I find it at the drug store. Mix with equal parts sugar or
cormeal. Keep away from Children and pets Though
Best Regards
Anthony



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