Hi All,

It appears I'll have to replace the oven igniter. Will test continuity
first. Anyone do one lately - have not replaced one before.

What's the best way to get at it? Can it be done without pulling the whole
oven out and tipping it on the side?

Thanks - Rich

"RichK" wrote in message
...
Hi All,

It appears I'll have to replace the oven igniter. Will test continuity
first. Anyone do one lately - have not replaced one before.

What's the best way to get at it? Can it be done without pulling the
whole
oven out and tipping it on the side?

Depends on the model. I was able to take the bottom of the oven out and get
to it that way. No need to pull it away from the wall. To make life
easier, some oven doors can be lifted right off the hinges so you are not
leaning over it for access.

RichK wrote:
Hi All,

It appears I'll have to replace the oven igniter. Will test
continuity first. Anyone do one lately - have not replaced one
before.

What's the best way to get at it? Can it be done without pulling the
whole oven out and tipping it on the side?

Thanks - Rich

I would guess you will find it by taking the bottom of the oven out.

Remember. Do not under any circumstances touch it when installing it.
Leave it in the plastic until it is in and then remove the plastic.
Touching it is a sure way of ending its life quick. You may be able to see
a crack in the old one avoiding the need for any test.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

Thanks Ed and Joe,

The bottom of the oven seems to be held by 2 screws, so it should be easy -
assuming they do not break :-)

The door may come out. May sound silly, but when you say that the door may
be lifted out, I assume it's after you remove the screws near the hinges.
Trying not to get into trouble :-)

Rich


"Joseph Meehan" wrote in message


I would guess you will find it by taking the bottom of the oven out.

Remember. Do not under any circumstances touch it when installing it.
Leave it in the plastic until it is in and then remove the plastic.
Touching it is a sure way of ending its life quick. You may be able to
see
a crack in the old one avoiding the need for any test.

"RichK" wrote in message

The door may come out. May sound silly, but when you say that the door
may
be lifted out, I assume it's after you remove the screws near the hinges.
Trying not to get into trouble :-)

No, it just pull off the hinge in my case. No tools required. Open it out
a few degrees, pull straight up.

RichK wrote:
Thanks Ed and Joe,

The bottom of the oven seems to be held by 2 screws, so it should be
easy - assuming they do not break :-)

The door may come out. May sound silly, but when you say that the
door may be lifted out, I assume it's after you remove the screws
near the hinges. Trying not to get into trouble :-)

Rich

Try opening the door to the first stop; then lift. It will likely just
lift off the brackets.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

RichK wrote:
Thanks Ed and Joe,

The bottom of the oven seems to be held by 2 screws, so it should be
easy - assuming they do not break :-)

The door may come out. May sound silly, but when you say that the
door may be lifted out, I assume it's after you remove the screws
near the hinges. Trying not to get into trouble :-)

Rich


And watch those brackets. Without the door attached the springs can
move them really fast and they can bite.
--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

A bad ignitor may have continuity. More often than not the ignitor will glow
and not light the oven.
An open ignitor wouldn't have no continuity.

Most ignitors are easy to replace, there are some GE models that are a
little more difficult, the screws are under the burner.





"RichK" wrote in message
...
Hi All,

It appears I'll have to replace the oven igniter. Will test continuity
first. Anyone do one lately - have not replaced one before.

What's the best way to get at it? Can it be done without pulling the
whole
oven out and tipping it on the side?

Thanks - Rich

"Ed" wrote in message

A bad ignitor may have continuity. More often than not the ignitor will
glow
and not light the oven.
An open ignitor wouldn't have no continuity.

Got to it easily. The door did not slide out, left it in place. Only one
screw in a cover. Igniter held by 3 screws. The broken part appears to be
the spring loaded connector in the igniter itself. Wire just fell out. Had
to order a replacement - $42+shipping.

Suspect will have to connect the new one with crimp connectors, as the plug
(if there's one) is very deep inside the oven.

Most ignitors are easy to replace, there are some GE models that are a
little more difficult, the screws are under the burner.

This one was easy enough to get out.

Thanks All,

Rich

On Thu, 05 Jan 2006 16:33:17 GMT, "Joseph Meehan"
wrote:

RichK wrote:

What's the best way to get at it? Can it be done without pulling the
whole oven out and tipping it on the side?

On the oven I worked on, taking the oven out would not help replace
the ignitor.

Remember. Do not under any circumstances touch it when installing it.
Leave it in the plastic until it is in and then remove the plastic.
Touching it is a sure way of ending its life quick. You may be able to see
a crack in the old one avoiding the need for any test.

Don't some of them have a metal screen around them? And you can touch
the metal screen, right?

I got one in the mail today, but I haven't opened it, and I only saw
the original from a distance.

So if there is a metal cage around the thing, I can touch it?

Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let
me know if you have posted also.