I am having some trouble with the roof on the rear of this house.

http://65.31.50.236/pub/roofpitch.jpg

The rear roof is standard 3-Tab Shingle over 15# Paper and OSB, probably
about 4 Years Old.

I was up in the attic the other day towards the rear pitch and the OSB is
saturated with water to the point that it is dripping on the insulation
below(Snow piled on the roof). There is sufficient venting in the attic. I
want to fix the problem on the rear roof but am not sure how to keep the
water from penetrating given the gentle slope:

1. Tearoff, new osb, ice guard over all the sheathing, 30-Year Shingles.
2. Tearoff, new osb, Rubber Roof?

Thanks in Advance,
-a12vman

The pitch looks fairly close to flat deck material applications. Is
that a valley dumping onto it from the left? Tom

No the gabled roof sets in front of the flat roof, the runoff is caught by
the gutter.

Option 2, anyways. New flashing up and under the siding, too. Tom

a12vman wrote:
I am having some trouble with the roof on the rear of this house.

http://65.31.50.236/pub/roofpitch.jpg

The rear roof is standard 3-Tab Shingle over 15# Paper and OSB,
probably about 4 Years Old.

I was up in the attic the other day towards the rear pitch and the
OSB is saturated with water to the point that it is dripping on the
insulation below(Snow piled on the roof). There is sufficient
venting in the attic. I want to fix the problem on the rear roof but
am not sure how to keep the water from penetrating given the gentle
slope:
1. Tearoff, new osb, ice guard over all the sheathing, 30-Year
Shingles. 2. Tearoff, new osb, Rubber Roof?

Thanks in Advance,
-a12vman

My guess is the flashing at the top where it meets the wall has a
problem or is totally missing.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

Joseph Meehan wrote:
a12vman wrote:
I am having some trouble with the roof on the rear of this house.

http://65.31.50.236/pub/roofpitch.jpg

The rear roof is standard 3-Tab Shingle over 15# Paper and OSB,
probably about 4 Years Old.

I was up in the attic the other day towards the rear pitch and the
OSB is saturated with water to the point that it is dripping on the
insulation below(Snow piled on the roof). There is sufficient
venting in the attic. I want to fix the problem on the rear roof but
am not sure how to keep the water from penetrating given the gentle
slope:
1. Tearoff, new osb, ice guard over all the sheathing, 30-Year
Shingles. 2. Tearoff, new osb, Rubber Roof?

Thanks in Advance,
-a12vman

My guess is the flashing at the top where it meets the wall has a
problem or is totally missing.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

I agree with Joseph, the flashing is probably done poorly or missing.

Ken

Actually, looks more than 1 in 6 pitch, to me, the lower limit for
3-tab.

J

Seen this problem many times

It appears to me the problem that you are having is that heat is getting up
in the crawl space, frost is forming on the nails, the heat goes up in the
attic/crawl space causing condensation.
A standard door is 2'-6x6x6'' or 2'-8x 6'-8''. If we are both on the same
page, I'm looking at only several inches above the door where the roof
ends. IMO you do not have sufficient venting plus you need a low pitch
shingle with an ice dam.
"a12vman" wrote in message
m...
I am having some trouble with the roof on the rear of this house.

http://65.31.50.236/pub/roofpitch.jpg

The rear roof is standard 3-Tab Shingle over 15# Paper and OSB, probably
about 4 Years Old.

I was up in the attic the other day towards the rear pitch and the OSB is
saturated with water to the point that it is dripping on the insulation
below(Snow piled on the roof). There is sufficient venting in the attic.
I want to fix the problem on the rear roof but am not sure how to keep the
water from penetrating given the gentle slope:

1. Tearoff, new osb, ice guard over all the sheathing, 30-Year Shingles.
2. Tearoff, new osb, Rubber Roof?

Thanks in Advance,
-a12vman

On 14 Dec 2005 12:47:25 -0800, wrote:

Actually, looks more than 1 in 6 pitch, to me, the lower limit for
3-tab.

J

Instead of your eyeballing it, and others of us who don't want to
being expected to go look at a file, why didn't the OP just measure it
and tell us?

Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let
me know if you have posted also.

mm wrote:
On 14 Dec 2005 12:47:25 -0800, wrote:

Actually, looks more than 1 in 6 pitch, to me, the lower limit for
3-tab.

Instead of your eyeballing it, and others of us who don't want to
being expected to go look at a file, why didn't the OP just measure it
and tell us?

No need. From the scale of the door and the window on the side the
addition is roughly 8' deep. Count the number of 4" courses of the
vinyl siding. The rise is roughly six courses (24"). 24"/8 = ~3" rise
in 12" ~3/12

It's definitely at the very low end of what's acceptable for 3-tab
shingles. With such a gentle pitch I would have covered the entire
roof with Ice & Water Shield before shingling.

To the OP: you are the proud owner of a classic, roof wide ice dam.
Strip the shingles, inspect the OSB (if it's really that saturated, it
may have a lot of rot and be too far gone to save - replace as
necessary), check the flashing at the top end to make sure the schmucks
didn't cut corners up there, too, install Ice & Water Shield or
Weatherguard underlayment with aluminum drip edging along all roof
edges, shingle.

R

On 14 Dec 2005 19:29:40 -0800, "RicodJour"
wrote:

:
:mm wrote:
: On 14 Dec 2005 12:47:25 -0800, wrote:
:
: Actually, looks more than 1 in 6 pitch, to me, the lower limit for
: 3-tab.
:
: Instead of your eyeballing it, and others of us who don't want to
: being expected to go look at a file, why didn't the OP just measure it
: and tell us?
:
:No need. From the scale of the door and the window on the side the
:addition is roughly 8' deep. Count the number of 4" courses of the
:vinyl siding. The rise is roughly six courses (24"). 24"/8 = ~3" rise
:in 12" ~3/12
:
:It's definitely at the very low end of what's acceptable for 3-tab
:shingles. With such a gentle pitch I would have covered the entire
:roof with Ice & Water Shield before shingling.
:
:To the OP: you are the proud owner of a classic, roof wide ice dam.
:Strip the shingles, inspect the OSB (if it's really that saturated, it
:may have a lot of rot and be too far gone to save - replace as
:necessary), check the flashing at the top end to make sure the schmucks
:didn't cut corners up there, too, install Ice & Water Shield or
:Weatherguard underlayment with aluminum drip edging along all roof
:edges, shingle.
:
:R
I would have guessed 3/12, but RicodJour came to the rescue and proved
it. For the shingles just installed on my roof (Elk), 3/12 is acceptable
but only if they use double underlayment. In fact, my roofer didn't do
that and I made him tear off a section that I measured at 2.7/12, and
install double underlayment. Water shield is also a good idea. If your
roof is still under warranty, you might be able to get the roofer to
repair this, especially if it wasn't installed in accordance with
shingle manufacturer's installation specifications, which was the case
with my roof.

Dan