I have outside lights that are controlled by inside switches. The lights
cannot be seen from the inside.

I have often left these lights on for days, inadvertently.

I know there are illuminated switches that are lit when the lights are off.
But I cannot find switches that are lit when the lights are *ON*.

How can I tell when my outside lights are on?

Thank you

--
Walter
www.rationality.net
-

Walter R. wrote:

I have outside lights that are controlled by inside switches. The lights
cannot be seen from the inside.

I have often left these lights on for days, inadvertently.

I know there are illuminated switches that are lit when the lights are off.
But I cannot find switches that are lit when the lights are *ON*.

There are switches with small indicator lights; here's an example
(found via a quick google search of "light switch" "pilot light"):

http://www.smarthome.com/4246.html

You should be able to find one locally. Ask for a switch/pilot light
combination.

How can I tell when my outside lights are on?

Thank you



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CJT wrote:
Walter R. wrote:

I have outside lights that are controlled by inside switches. The
lights cannot be seen from the inside.

I have often left these lights on for days, inadvertently.

I know there are illuminated switches that are lit when the lights are
off. But I cannot find switches that are lit when the lights are *ON*.


There are switches with small indicator lights; here's an example
(found via a quick google search of "light switch" "pilot light"):

http://www.smarthome.com/4246.html

You should be able to find one locally. Ask for a switch/pilot light
combination.


How can I tell when my outside lights are on?

Thank you



Hi,
Even HD has it. You you use jumper on the switch either way you want.
Tony

"Walter R." wrote in message
...
I have outside lights that are controlled by inside
switches. The lights
cannot be seen from the inside.

I have often left these lights on for days, inadvertently.

I know there are illuminated switches that are lit when
the lights are off.
But I cannot find switches that are lit when the lights
are *ON*.

How can I tell when my outside lights are on?

If the switch light is off, the outside light is on.

Bob

Bob wrote:
"Walter R." wrote in message
...

I have outside lights that are controlled by inside

switches. The lights

cannot be seen from the inside.

I have often left these lights on for days, inadvertently.

I know there are illuminated switches that are lit when

the lights are off.

But I cannot find switches that are lit when the lights

are *ON*.

How can I tell when my outside lights are on?


If the switch light is off, the outside light is on.

Bob


Hi,
How about making it come on/off by sunlight. On with sundown(dark), off
with sun up(light). Some you can adjust sensitivity. There is even
an adaptor which goes in between light socket and lamp.
Tony

In article , CJT wrote:
Walter R. wrote:

I have outside lights that are controlled by inside switches. The lights
cannot be seen from the inside.

I have often left these lights on for days, inadvertently.

I know there are illuminated switches that are lit when the lights are off.
But I cannot find switches that are lit when the lights are *ON*.

There are switches with small indicator lights; here's an example
(found via a quick google search of "light switch" "pilot light"):

http://www.smarthome.com/4246.html


For regular toggle style, try the following part numbers

=======

Leviton

(15 amp)
(clear) (red) (green)
1201-PLC 1201-PLR 1201-PLG (single pole)
1202-PLC 1202-PLR 1202-PLG (double pole)
1203-PLC 1203-PLR 12030PLG (3 way)

(20 amp)
(clear) (red) (green)
1221-PLC, 1221-PLR, 1221-PLG (single pole)
1222-PLC, 1222-PLR, 1222-PLG (double pole)
1223-PLC, 1223-PLR, 1223-PLG (3 way)


========

Bryant

4801-PLR120 (red 15 amp single pole)

4901-PLC120 (clear 20 amp single pole)
4901-PLG120 (green 20 amp single pole)
4901-PLR120 (red 20 amp single pole)

4903-PLC120 (clear 20 amp 3-way)
4903-PLG120 (green 20 amp 3-way)
4903-PLR120 (red 20 amp 3-way)

4902-PLG120 (red 20 amp double pole)

Decora style

9901-PLI120 (ivory single pole 20 amp)
9901-PLW120 (white single pole 20 amp)

9903-PLI120 (ivory 3-way 20 amp)
9903-PLW120 (white 3-way 20 amp)



--
-- Welcome My Son, Welcome To The Machine --
Bob Vaughan | techie @ tantivy.net |
| P.O. Box 19792, Stanford, Ca 94309 |
-- I am Me, I am only Me, And no one else is Me, What could be simpler? --

a double pole double throw switch and an indoor outlet switched by it
would allow any choices of lamps or nightlights to show power on
indoors on one side of the circuit while illuminating the outdoor
lights.
alternative: an old outdoor van side view mirror might be mounted just
outside your window to see down an alleyway or around a corner.

Walter R. wrote:
I have outside lights that are controlled by inside switches. The
lights cannot be seen from the inside.

I have often left these lights on for days, inadvertently.

I know there are illuminated switches that are lit when the lights
are off. But I cannot find switches that are lit when the lights are
*ON*.
How can I tell when my outside lights are on?

Thank you

Easy cheap fix. Sneak out a bottle of your wife's red nail polish.
Turn the switch on and then paint the part of the switch that is showing
red. Now when the light is on you see red and when the light is off you
don't. It's easy to see from a distance and catches your attention.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

Walter R. wrote:
I have outside lights that are controlled by inside switches. The lights
cannot be seen from the inside.

I have often left these lights on for days, inadvertently.

I know there are illuminated switches that are lit when the lights are off.
But I cannot find switches that are lit when the lights are *ON*.

How can I tell when my outside lights are on?

Thank you


Go to a real electrical store. I installed a switch for the attic light
(located by the pull down stair) that has both a switch and light that
illuminates when the switch is on.

Tony said: "Even HD has it. You you use jumper on the switch either way
you want."

I was so excited about this post, I took my cover plate off my recent
HD-purchased Leviton lighted switch... only to find that there is no
jumper. Hmmm, I guess I got the cheapy brand. I too wish my lighted
switch would light when the light is on, not off. Seems backwards to
me.

kbmcdowell

"kbmcdowell" wrote in message
ups.com...
Tony said: "Even HD has it. You you use jumper on the
switch either way
you want."

I was so excited about this post, I took my cover plate
off my recent
HD-purchased Leviton lighted switch... only to find that
there is no
jumper. Hmmm, I guess I got the cheapy brand. I too wish
my lighted
switch would light when the light is on, not off. Seems
backwards to
me.

Obviously, it's designed for room lights, where it helps you
find the switch in the dark.

Bob

kbmcdowell wrote:
Tony said: "Even HD has it. You you use jumper on the switch either way
you want."

I was so excited about this post, I took my cover plate off my recent
HD-purchased Leviton lighted switch... only to find that there is no
jumper. Hmmm, I guess I got the cheapy brand. I too wish my lighted
switch would light when the light is on, not off. Seems backwards to
me.

kbmcdowell

The jumperable kind are the ones where the lamp is separate from the
switch. These are fit a duplex outlet faceplate, with the switch in one
of the outlet positions and the lamp in the other. Of course decora
models exist too.

The ones where the switch handle itself glows are hardwired either to
be "illuminated switches" (glows when load is off) or "pilot light
switches" (glows when load is on, which is what you want). Often
they're 3-way because it's with 3-ways that you can't tell on from off
by the position of the switch.

Chip C

kbmcdowell wrote:

Tony said: "Even HD has it. You you use jumper on the switch either way
you want."

I was so excited about this post, I took my cover plate off my recent
HD-purchased Leviton lighted switch... only to find that there is no
jumper. Hmmm, I guess I got the cheapy brand. I too wish my lighted
switch would light when the light is on, not off. Seems backwards to
me.

kbmcdowell

They're that way so you can see the switch in a darkened room (so you
can turn the lights on, at which point there is no longer a need for
the switch being lit). Another reason is that there's no need to
connect the switch to neutral for it to work (leakage through the
load is enough).

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
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On 2005-11-18, CJT wrote:

They're that way so you can see the switch in a darkened room (so
you can turn the lights on, at which point there is no longer a need
for the switch being lit). Another reason is that there's no need
to connect the switch to neutral for it to work (leakage through the
load is enough).

So when such a switch is "off", it is not really off, it is leaking a
little current through to the load? How much power does the switch
use when "off"?

Cheers, Wayne

Pass and Seymour make "decorator-style" switches that do what you want:

Search for "pilot" in

http://www.passandseymour.com/pdf/D02-08.pdf

I couldn't find the particular ones I wanted in stock anywhere, not even
at an electrical-supplies warehouse; they had to be special-ordered.

Perce


On 11/18/05 01:17 am Walter R. tossed the following ingredients into the
ever-growing pot of cybersoup:

I have outside lights that are controlled by inside switches. The lights
cannot be seen from the inside.

I have often left these lights on for days, inadvertently.

I know there are illuminated switches that are lit when the lights are off.
But I cannot find switches that are lit when the lights are *ON*.

How can I tell when my outside lights are on?

Wayne Whitney wrote:

On 2005-11-18, CJT wrote:


They're that way so you can see the switch in a darkened room (so
you can turn the lights on, at which point there is no longer a need
for the switch being lit). Another reason is that there's no need
to connect the switch to neutral for it to work (leakage through the
load is enough).


So when such a switch is "off", it is not really off, it is leaking a
little current through to the load? How much power does the switch
use when "off"?

Cheers, Wayne

Very little -- I think it's probably around 0.05 watt. You could
research the power used by Ne-2 bulbs, which are, I think, similar
to what's used, if you want a better number.

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In article ,
Wayne Whitney wrote:

So when such a switch is "off", it is not really off, it is leaking a
little current through to the load? How much power does the switch
use when "off"?

Many such lights use a NE-2 bulb which is 1/4 watt.

--
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Eastern time. N6LRT I speak for myself & my dogs only. VM'er since CP-67
Canines:Val, Red & Shasta (RIP),Red, husky Owner:Chinook-L
Atlanta Siberian Husky Rescue. www.panix.com/~richgr/ Asst Owner:Sibernet-L

On 11/18/05 01:17 am Walter R. tossed the following ingredients into the
ever-growing pot of cybersoup:

I have outside lights that are controlled by inside switches. The lights
cannot be seen from the inside.

I have often left these lights on for days, inadvertently.

I know there are illuminated switches that are lit when the lights are off.
But I cannot find switches that are lit when the lights are *ON*.

How can I tell when my outside lights are on?

If this works for you, you could take it a step further and install
one of these Leviton electronic timers. (see link below) The choices
are 2, 4, 8, and 12 hours, plus it functions as a pilot light as well.

No-one could ever leave the lights burning for more than one evening
again. Now that would be cool.

http://www.levitonproducts.com/catal... gle&ovtac=PI

Beachcomber

Chip C wrote:

CJT wrote:

Wayne Whitney wrote:


On 2005-11-18, CJT wrote:



They're that way so you can see the switch in a darkened room (so
you can turn the lights on, at which point there is no longer a need
for the switch being lit). Another reason is that there's no need
to connect the switch to neutral for it to work (leakage through the
load is enough).


So when such a switch is "off", it is not really off, it is leaking a
little current through to the load? How much power does the switch
use when "off"?

Cheers, Wayne


Very little -- I think it's probably around 0.05 watt. You could
research the power used by Ne-2 bulbs, which are, I think, similar
to what's used, if you want a better number.


I have a pilot-light switch (light is separate from the switch handle),
I'm pretty sure a Leviton, that says it's 1/35 W, which is under 0.03
W. Leviton doesn't seem to show this info for their lighted-handle
switches on their web site. I'll bet it's less.

Chip C

Perhaps they don't say on the "lit while off" version" because it will
vary (slightly) according to what it's hooked to.

The current through an Ne-2 (or similar) will depend on its series
resistor -- FWIW, my guesstimate was based on my recollection that we
used to use 147k +/- resistors with them, and my further recollection
that once fired the voltage across one is about 60V (leaving about 60V
across the resistor) but if a brighter glow is desired a smaller value
could be used. If my recollection proves wrong, I won't be surprised,
because it hasn't been an issue for me in probably 20 years.

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The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
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CJT wrote:

Wayne Whitney wrote:

On 2005-11-18, CJT wrote:


They're that way so you can see the switch in a darkened room (so
you can turn the lights on, at which point there is no longer a need
for the switch being lit). Another reason is that there's no need
to connect the switch to neutral for it to work (leakage through the
load is enough).



So when such a switch is "off", it is not really off, it is leaking a
little current through to the load? How much power does the switch
use when "off"?

Cheers, Wayne

Very little -- I think it's probably around 0.05 watt. You could
research the power used by Ne-2 bulbs, which are, I think, similar
to what's used, if you want a better number.


FWIW, I stumbled upon my old GE Glow Lamp Manual today, and it has
a table in the back listing nominal wattage for various versions.
A standard brightness NE-2e/v/d is 1/15 watt. The high brightness
NE-2h is 1/4 watt.

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

CJT wrote:

... I stumbled upon my old GE Glow Lamp Manual today, and it has
a table in the back listing nominal wattage for various versions.
A standard brightness NE-2e/v/d is 1/15 watt. The high brightness
NE-2h is 1/4 watt.

It might be fun to make a PC with a roomful of NE-2s... an RC clock
and lots of ring counters and flip flops :-)

Nick

On 25 Nov 2005 01:19:21 -0500, wrote:

CJT wrote:

... I stumbled upon my old GE Glow Lamp Manual today, and it has
a table in the back listing nominal wattage for various versions.
A standard brightness NE-2e/v/d is 1/15 watt. The high brightness
NE-2h is 1/4 watt.

It might be fun to make a PC with a roomful of NE-2s... an RC clock
and lots of ring counters and flip flops :-)

Nick

I remember seeing a wris****ch made with NIXIE tubes.
--
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Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what
to have for lunch. Liberty is a well armed lamb
contesting the vote." - Benjamin Franklin

wrote:

CJT wrote:


... I stumbled upon my old GE Glow Lamp Manual today, and it has
a table in the back listing nominal wattage for various versions.
A standard brightness NE-2e/v/d is 1/15 watt. The high brightness
NE-2h is 1/4 watt.


It might be fun to make a PC with a roomful of NE-2s... an RC clock
and lots of ring counters and flip flops :-)

Nick

That would be awesome.

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