Property is in south Florida Miami, so the temperature rise is not as much
as other locations.

I am looking to get a Stiebel Eltron Tempra 36. It will give me 4.5GPM with
55 degree rise. This will do what I need being a 2 bath house. The
technical specs a

Voltage 240 V
Wattage 36 kW
Amperage 150 A
Minimum Required Circuit Breaker Size 3x60 A
Recommended Wire Size 3x8 AWG Copper

I don't know if I have the proper electrical set up. I have four more
unused slots in my electrical panel, there is an existing wire that goes to
the current (to be replaced) hot water tank. My electric meter outside has
this:

120/240V AC
3 WIRE
MAX 200 AMP
CL 200 * 240V * 3W * FM2S * TA30

Not sure what some of those mean. Can one tell if what I have matches up
with what is needed? What electrical service do I need, if any?

Thanks,

MC

"miamicuse" wrote in message
I am looking to get a Stiebel Eltron Tempra 36.
Voltage 240 V
Wattage 36 kW
Amperage 150 A
Minimum Required Circuit Breaker Size 3x60 A
Recommended Wire Size 3x8 AWG Copper


That should be 15A 3600 divided by 240 = 15


I don't know if I have the proper electrical set up. I have four more
unused slots in my electrical panel, there is an existing wire that goes
to
the current (to be replaced) hot water tank. My electric meter outside
has
this:

120/240V AC
3 WIRE
MAX 200 AMP
CL 200 * 240V * 3W * FM2S * TA30

The meter does not matter, but the main breaker does. It is 200A? if so,
you have plenty of power coming itn. The blank spots may be used.
Depending on the existig wire, that may or may not be used. An electrician
can tell you what size it is. It may be printed on the insulation.


Not sure what some of those mean. Can one tell if what I have matches up
with what is needed? What electrical service do I need, if any?

You most likely have what you need for power. Your electrician will supply
the proper breaker and wire. It would be a good idea to have him check it
out before you buy the new heater though.

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
.. .

"miamicuse" wrote in message
I am looking to get a Stiebel Eltron Tempra 36.
Voltage 240 V
Wattage 36 kW
Amperage 150 A
Minimum Required Circuit Breaker Size 3x60 A
Recommended Wire Size 3x8 AWG Copper


That should be 15A 3600 divided by 240 = 15


I rechecked the data sheet it says 150A.

It has several models:

Tempra 12 needs 50A, Tempra 20 needs 80 A, 24 needs 100 A, 29 needs 120 A
and 36 needs 150 A.

Unless the document is in error? You can see the data he

http://www.stiebel-eltron-usa.com/HT...e20_specs.html


I don't know if I have the proper electrical set up. I have four more
unused slots in my electrical panel, there is an existing wire that goes
to
the current (to be replaced) hot water tank. My electric meter outside
has
this:

120/240V AC
3 WIRE
MAX 200 AMP
CL 200 * 240V * 3W * FM2S * TA30

The meter does not matter, but the main breaker does. It is 200A? if so,
you have plenty of power coming itn. The blank spots may be used.
Depending on the existig wire, that may or may not be used. An
electrician
can tell you what size it is. It may be printed on the insulation.


Not sure what some of those mean. Can one tell if what I have matches
up
with what is needed? What electrical service do I need, if any?

You most likely have what you need for power. Your electrician will supply
the proper breaker and wire. It would be a good idea to have him check it
out before you buy the new heater though.

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
.. .

"miamicuse" wrote in message
I am looking to get a Stiebel Eltron Tempra 36.
Voltage 240 V
Wattage 36 kW
Amperage 150 A
Minimum Required Circuit Breaker Size 3x60 A
Recommended Wire Size 3x8 AWG Copper


That should be 15A 3600 divided by 240 = 15

36 kW = 36000

36000 / 240 = 150

Holy **** I think I'd rather have a tank if there was room.




I don't know if I have the proper electrical set up. I have four more
unused slots in my electrical panel, there is an existing wire that goes
to
the current (to be replaced) hot water tank. My electric meter outside
has
this:

120/240V AC
3 WIRE
MAX 200 AMP
CL 200 * 240V * 3W * FM2S * TA30

The meter does not matter, but the main breaker does. It is 200A? if so,
you have plenty of power coming itn. The blank spots may be used.
Depending on the existig wire, that may or may not be used. An
electrician
can tell you what size it is. It may be printed on the insulation.


Not sure what some of those mean. Can one tell if what I have matches
up
with what is needed? What electrical service do I need, if any?

You most likely have what you need for power. Your electrician will supply
the proper breaker and wire. It would be a good idea to have him check it
out before you buy the new heater though.

"Olaf" wrote in message

That should be 15A 3600 divided by 240 = 15

36 kW = 36000

36000 / 240 = 150

Holy **** I think I'd rather have a tank if there was room.

Yes, I dropped a zero. Crap, that is a LOT of power. No, the OP does have
enough power to the house to do that.

Do I really have enough power or does it depend on what appliances may be
drawing power at the same time (refrig, microwave, AC etc...)?

MC

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
.. .

"Olaf" wrote in message

That should be 15A 3600 divided by 240 = 15

36 kW = 36000

36000 / 240 = 150

Holy **** I think I'd rather have a tank if there was room.

Yes, I dropped a zero. Crap, that is a LOT of power. No, the OP does have
enough power to the house to do that.

Tankless water heaters come in electric and gas versions.

For an electric one - you need a very heavy power line directly to the
unit. The unit is small but it calls for a lot of power when it snaps on.

The gas version is very nice - above two cubic feet. The ones we looked
at cost around $2000 - but they tested out well. Very efficient - plenty
of hot water when you want it.

Here is Tallahassee - the city own the electric and gas company. They
offer a rebate of $450 for every water heater you convert from electric
or gas - probably to cut down on peak loads. Since our home has two
electric water heaters - we plan to convert them over to gas and get a
$900 rebate - which will more than cover the conversion if we put
conventional gas tank heaters in.

When the energy auditor was here - he figured the pay back for putting
in two tankless gas heaters was over 10 years. If we chose the tank gas
water heaters and the rebates - payback would be immediate.

I really like the tankless gas units - but right now will chose tank gas
water heaters.

Harry

"miamicuse" wrote in message
...
Do I really have enough power or does it depend on what appliances may be
drawing power at the same time (refrig, microwave, AC etc...)?

MC

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
.. .

"Olaf" wrote in message

That should be 15A 3600 divided by 240 = 15

36 kW = 36000

36000 / 240 = 150

Holy **** I think I'd rather have a tank if there was room.

Yes, I dropped a zero. Crap, that is a LOT of power. No, the OP does
have
enough power to the house to do that.





It really depends on how many amps are available from the main panel. Even a
200 amp panel would not be able to handle that heater realistically unless
there were no other heavy load 220 appliances (like a range, water heater,
dryer, etc.) . My guess is that each 60 amp breaker would be hooked to
separate heaters within the unit. the heater will turn on as many heaters as
necessary to heat up to the 4.5 gpm.

"Olaf" wrote in message
...

"miamicuse" wrote in message
...
Do I really have enough power or does it depend on what appliances may
be
drawing power at the same time (refrig, microwave, AC etc...)?

MC

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
.. .

"Olaf" wrote in message

That should be 15A 3600 divided by 240 = 15

36 kW = 36000

36000 / 240 = 150

Holy **** I think I'd rather have a tank if there was room.

Yes, I dropped a zero. Crap, that is a LOT of power. No, the OP does
have
enough power to the house to do that.





It really depends on how many amps are available from the main panel. Even
a
200 amp panel would not be able to handle that heater realistically unless
there were no other heavy load 220 appliances (like a range, water heater,
dryer, etc.) . My guess is that each 60 amp breaker would be hooked to
separate heaters within the unit. the heater will turn on as many heaters
as
necessary to heat up to the 4.5 gpm.



Oops, that was supposed to be a response to the OP. No biggie.

I can just imagine the lights dimming when someone jumps in the shower or
fills the tub.

miamicuse writes:

I don't know if I have the proper electrical set up.

You don't. This is a bad idea in general. It will be much cheaper and
safer to use conventional water heaters.

miamicuse wrote:
Property is in south Florida Miami, so the temperature rise is not as
much as other locations.

I am looking to get a Stiebel Eltron Tempra 36. It will give me
4.5GPM with 55 degree rise. This will do what I need being a 2 bath
house. The technical specs a

Voltage 240 V
Wattage 36 kW
Amperage 150 A
Minimum Required Circuit Breaker Size 3x60 A
Recommended Wire Size 3x8 AWG Copper

I don't know if I have the proper electrical set up. I have four more
unused slots in my electrical panel, there is an existing wire that
goes to the current (to be replaced) hot water tank. My electric
meter outside has this:

120/240V AC
3 WIRE
MAX 200 AMP
CL 200 * 240V * 3W * FM2S * TA30

Not sure what some of those mean. Can one tell if what I have
matches up with what is needed? What electrical service do I need,
if any?

Thanks,

MC

You have already worked out the numbers and you know you are going to
need some additional electrical work to use this puppy. They are nice, but
they use an extreme amount of power for short periods of time. The cost of
operation (ignoring cost of replacement and maintenance cost) is going to be
less than the like cost of the usual tank type heater. The overall cost
however is not likely to be less unless you have some other factors like
limited space, unique usage cycles etc.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

What this unit requires is three sets of two cables each. Each set connected
to a 60 amp double pole breaker. Your 200 amp service would be fine ONLY if
you didn't need electricity for the rest of your house



"miamicuse" wrote in message
...
Property is in south Florida Miami, so the temperature rise is not as much
as other locations.

I am looking to get a Stiebel Eltron Tempra 36. It will give me 4.5GPM
with
55 degree rise. This will do what I need being a 2 bath house. The
technical specs a

Voltage 240 V
Wattage 36 kW
Amperage 150 A
Minimum Required Circuit Breaker Size 3x60 A
Recommended Wire Size 3x8 AWG Copper

I don't know if I have the proper electrical set up. I have four more
unused slots in my electrical panel, there is an existing wire that goes
to
the current (to be replaced) hot water tank. My electric meter outside
has
this:

120/240V AC
3 WIRE
MAX 200 AMP
CL 200 * 240V * 3W * FM2S * TA30

Not sure what some of those mean. Can one tell if what I have matches up
with what is needed? What electrical service do I need, if any?

Thanks,

MC

Richard J Kinch wrote:
miamicuse writes:

I don't know if I have the proper electrical set up.

You don't. This is a bad idea in general. It will be much cheaper and
safer to use conventional water heaters.

Yeah, according to Consumer Reports, conventional water heaters these
days are well enough insulated that the majority of the energy goes
into heating the water, and not much into replacing leaked heat, given
a normal amount of use per day. My "experiments" with turning the
heater off and not noticing a difference in water temp the next day
tend to confirm this. In which case, you wouldn't save much at all from
a tankless heater.