I tried to install a programmable thermostat over the weekend. It is a
one thermostat household with an air & gas furnace set-up (the wires to
the thermostat were W, R, G, Y--I think).

I took the old mercury thermostat off. When I tried to place the new
wires on, after a couple of bad insulation strip jobs, a wire or was to
short to connect. Since this was attached to the heating unit, I
thought I could at least turn it on and get AC until I can get a
professional out to fix the job. When I switched the breakers, nothing
happened. So I tried to put on the old thermostat, but now of a couple
of the wires are too short.

My Question:
Can the professional solder or extend the copper wires to make them
long enough to attach a new thermostat? I ran this by a HVAC tech that
comes well recommended, and he thought he might have to run new wires
from the HVAC units to the thermostat--is this necessary, or can these
wires just be extended from their existing location?

GI wrote:
I tried to install a programmable thermostat over the weekend. It is a
one thermostat household with an air & gas furnace set-up (the wires to
the thermostat were W, R, G, Y--I think).

I took the old mercury thermostat off. When I tried to place the new
wires on, after a couple of bad insulation strip jobs, a wire or was to
short to connect. Since this was attached to the heating unit, I
thought I could at least turn it on and get AC until I can get a
professional out to fix the job. When I switched the breakers, nothing
happened. So I tried to put on the old thermostat, but now of a couple
of the wires are too short.

My Question:
Can the professional solder or extend the copper wires to make them
long enough to attach a new thermostat? I ran this by a HVAC tech that
comes well recommended, and he thought he might have to run new wires
from the HVAC units to the thermostat--is this necessary, or can these
wires just be extended from their existing location?

You should be able to extend the wires, one way or another. At worst,
you might have to enlarge the hole a bit for access and patch it
afterwards.

On 27 Sep 2005 09:44:16 -0700, "GI" wrote:

I tried to install a programmable thermostat over the weekend. It is a

Don't cross-post this **** to alt.hvac.


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Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'
'With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.'
HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's
Free demo now available online http://pmilligan.net/palm/

Who is the professional you are talking about to do the soldering?
Obviously it won't be the ficticious HVAC tech you made up, so it will
probably be you.

Yes, it can be done, depending on how much wire there is to work with,
if you know how to solder, and insulate a connection. There are also
other ways to extend wires without solder that are equally if not more
effective.

FYI, there is a more than fair chance you have damaged your furnace by
powering up with bare wires not connected to a thermostat, and
therefore, more than likely connected to each other.

I'd recommend you call a real tech, and have him do the work, and then
be done with it. You are well over your head here.

wrote in message
...
On 27 Sep 2005 09:44:16 -0700, "GI" wrote:

I tried to install a programmable thermostat over the weekend. It is a

Don't cross-post this **** to alt.hvac.

Yeah, the hvac people are assholes and won't help anyone anyway.



Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!!

http://www.theanimalrescuesite.com/

Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'
'With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.'
HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's
Free demo now available online http://pmilligan.net/palm/

Maybe if you were to buy a wire stretcher??

"GI" wrote in message
oups.com...
I tried to install a programmable thermostat over the weekend. It is a
one thermostat household with an air & gas furnace set-up (the wires to
the thermostat were W, R, G, Y--I think).

I took the old mercury thermostat off. When I tried to place the new
wires on, after a couple of bad insulation strip jobs, a wire or was to
short to connect. Since this was attached to the heating unit, I
thought I could at least turn it on and get AC until I can get a
professional out to fix the job. When I switched the breakers, nothing
happened. So I tried to put on the old thermostat, but now of a couple
of the wires are too short.

My Question:
Can the professional solder or extend the copper wires to make them
long enough to attach a new thermostat? I ran this by a HVAC tech that
comes well recommended, and he thought he might have to run new wires
from the HVAC units to the thermostat--is this necessary, or can these
wires just be extended from their existing location?

Lot of factors, we can't answer from here. Might be possible to splice on.
But, also depending on your house layout, it might make more sense to pull
new wire.

Got to consider how old is the wire, and how easy it would be to pull a new
wire. I've pulled a lot of thermostat wire, and sometimes it's a lot easier
to pull new wire. The problem with splicing is that sometiems the splices
work loose, adn it's a nightmare to trouble shoot later. besides, you'll be
without heat or AC, and that's not good.

If it's even a close decision, pull new wire.

--

Christopher A. Young
Do good work.
It's longer in the short run
but shorter in the long run.
..
..


"GI" wrote in message
oups.com...
I tried to install a programmable thermostat over the weekend. It is a
one thermostat household with an air & gas furnace set-up (the wires to
the thermostat were W, R, G, Y--I think).

I took the old mercury thermostat off. When I tried to place the new
wires on, after a couple of bad insulation strip jobs, a wire or was to
short to connect. Since this was attached to the heating unit, I
thought I could at least turn it on and get AC until I can get a
professional out to fix the job. When I switched the breakers, nothing
happened. So I tried to put on the old thermostat, but now of a couple
of the wires are too short.

My Question:
Can the professional solder or extend the copper wires to make them
long enough to attach a new thermostat? I ran this by a HVAC tech that
comes well recommended, and he thought he might have to run new wires
from the HVAC units to the thermostat--is this necessary, or can these
wires just be extended from their existing location?

Come on Chris -

Quit trying to rip this guy off and admit that all it needs is
probabaly a used, improperly sized capacitor. Maybe a circuit breaker
with part of it sawed off.

"GI" wrote in message
oups.com...
I tried to install a programmable thermostat over the weekend. It is a
one thermostat household with an air & gas furnace set-up (the wires to
the thermostat were W, R, G, Y--I think).

I took the old mercury thermostat off. When I tried to place the new
wires on, after a couple of bad insulation strip jobs, a wire or was to
short to connect. Since this was attached to the heating unit, I
thought I could at least turn it on and get AC until I can get a
professional out to fix the job. When I switched the breakers, nothing
happened.

BWAHAHAHAhahahahahahahaha!!

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Lot of factors, we can't answer from here.

"We"?

I tried to install a programmable thermostat over the weekend. It is a

Don't cross-post this **** to alt.hvac.

Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!!

http://www.theanimalrescuesite.com/

What? You lower your self-righteous ass to read alt.home.repair??????
You?

Richard

"GI" wrote in message
oups.com...
I tried to install a programmable thermostat over the weekend. It is a
one thermostat household with an air & gas furnace set-up (the wires to
the thermostat were W, R, G, Y--I think).

I took the old mercury thermostat off. When I tried to place the new
wires on, after a couple of bad insulation strip jobs, a wire or was to
short to connect. Since this was attached to the heating unit, I
thought I could at least turn it on and get AC until I can get a
professional out to fix the job. When I switched the breakers, nothing
happened. So I tried to put on the old thermostat, but now of a couple
of the wires are too short.

My Question:
Can the professional solder or extend the copper wires to make them
long enough to attach a new thermostat? I ran this by a HVAC tech that
comes well recommended, and he thought he might have to run new wires
from the HVAC units to the thermostat--is this necessary, or can these
wires just be extended from their existing location?

Normal technicians would run new wire. Splicing wire leaves too many
connections to fail. You could always relocate the thermostat if doing the
job right bothers you.

Bill

Matt posted for all of us...
I don't top post - see either inline or at bottom.

Come on Chris -

Quit trying to rip this guy off and admit that all it needs is
probabaly a used, improperly sized capacitor. Maybe a circuit breaker
with part of it sawed off.


He runs to run the new wire through the busted jamb...
--
My boss said I was dumb and apathetic.
I said I don't know and I don't care...

Tekkie

"Matt" wrote in message
oups.com...
FYI, there is a more than fair chance you have damaged your furnace by
powering up with bare wires not connected to a thermostat, and
therefore, more than likely connected to each other.

Would you mind explaining? Most systems don't have a "common" (neutral)
wire at the 'stat, so shorting any wires out wouldn't do anything more
harmful than what the t-stat does when it calls for heat. About the worst
thing you could do is have the heat and AC running at the same time, but
that would be pretty unlikely.

-Tim

On Wed, 28 Sep 2005 11:49:45 -0500, "Tim Fischer"
wrote:

"Matt" wrote in message
roups.com...
FYI, there is a more than fair chance you have damaged your furnace by
powering up with bare wires not connected to a thermostat, and
therefore, more than likely connected to each other.

Would you mind explaining? Most systems don't have a "common" (neutral)
wire at the 'stat, so shorting any wires out wouldn't do anything more
harmful than what the t-stat does when it calls for heat. About the worst
thing you could do is have the heat and AC running at the same time, but
that would be pretty unlikely.

-Tim

Seeing as you don't have a clue, STFU.



Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!!

http://www.theanimalrescuesite.com/

Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'
'With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.'
HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's
Free demo now available online http://pmilligan.net/palm/

Look, a ****in' expert on ignorance....you probably shorted your transformer
unless you can give us another reason why that is highly improbable. The
endless stream of ****ups that seem to gravitate here, ask questions, then
respond with an argument, when given an answer that they either disagree
with or don't like is absolutely amazing.



"Tim Fischer" wrote in message
...
"Matt" wrote in message
oups.com...
FYI, there is a more than fair chance you have damaged your furnace by
powering up with bare wires not connected to a thermostat, and
therefore, more than likely connected to each other.

Would you mind explaining? Most systems don't have a "common" (neutral)
wire at the 'stat, so shorting any wires out wouldn't do anything more
harmful than what the t-stat does when it calls for heat. About the worst
thing you could do is have the heat and AC running at the same time, but
that would be pretty unlikely.

-Tim

"Anthony Berlin" wrote in message
. ..
Look, a ****in' expert on ignorance....you probably shorted your
transformer
unless you can give us another reason why that is highly improbable.

Could you kindly explain how one shorts out a transformer when the T-stat
consists of a series of switched loops?

-Tim

wrote in message
...


Seeing as you don't have a clue, STFU.

Could you kindly explain how one shorts out a transformer when the T-stat
consists of a series of switched loops?

-Tim

Okay since you seem to be experiencing exceptional difficulty in the area of
comprehension, lets see if you can answer your own question, based on the
assumption that there is no common feed from the transformer, and that the
thermostat is acting as a switch in a looped control system.....what other
factors would be necessarily considered with respect to shorting the
transformer secondary strictly from the thermostat, and we will even remove
the possibility of the control wires directly grounding to metal of any kind
at the thermostat, what other factors based on load consideration do you
think would result in a shorted secondary ?




"Tim Fischer" wrote in message
...

"Anthony Berlin" wrote in message
. ..
Look, a ****in' expert on ignorance....you probably shorted your
transformer
unless you can give us another reason why that is highly improbable.

Could you kindly explain how one shorts out a transformer when the T-stat
consists of a series of switched loops?

-Tim

Yeah, the hvac people are assholes and won't help anyone anyway.

But the truly ironic part is that they also come here to not help
anyone as well.

"Anthony Berlin" wrote in message
. ..
Okay since you seem to be experiencing exceptional difficulty in the area
of
comprehension, lets see if you can answer your own question, based on the
assumption that there is no common feed from the transformer, and that the
thermostat is acting as a switch in a looped control system.....what other
factors would be necessarily considered with respect to shorting the
transformer secondary strictly from the thermostat, and we will even
remove
the possibility of the control wires directly grounding to metal of any
kind
at the thermostat, what other factors based on load consideration do you
think would result in a shorted secondary ?

Look, I'm not trying to be a jerk here, even though it seems you want to be.
If you feel my answer is wrong, than please explain why, and I'll learn
something.

If you're implying that having all the relays/contactors energized at the
same time is too much for the transformer, than I disagree-- relay and
contactor coils don't take all that much power (and besides, that woudln't
be a 'short' but an overload).

If I'm missing your point still -- then please stop being snarky and
explain. I'm not an HVAC tech so I might well be missing something
'obvious' to you (although I've successfully repaird a number of HVAC
issues, including a burned-out transformer (no I didn't kill it myself)).

-Tim

wrote in message
oups.com...
Yeah, the hvac people are assholes and won't help anyone anyway.

But the truly ironic part is that they also come here to not help
anyone as well.

Yep, instead they taunt my answers but fail to explain what they think is
wrong with them.

-Tim

Jesus Christ! Why do homemoaners get so ****y, even after they get
excellent free advice from professionals?

And to top it all off, the professional gets the blame!

Face it, Tim. You probably ****ed it up trying to save a couple of bucks.
Now, your great idea to be cheap is going cause you to spend more to get a
pro to come out and fix all the damage you did to your furnace.



"Tim Fischer" wrote in message
...

"Anthony Berlin" wrote in message
. ..
Okay since you seem to be experiencing exceptional difficulty in the area
of
comprehension, lets see if you can answer your own question, based on the
assumption that there is no common feed from the transformer, and that
the
thermostat is acting as a switch in a looped control system.....what
other
factors would be necessarily considered with respect to shorting the
transformer secondary strictly from the thermostat, and we will even
remove
the possibility of the control wires directly grounding to metal of any
kind
at the thermostat, what other factors based on load consideration do you
think would result in a shorted secondary ?

Look, I'm not trying to be a jerk here, even though it seems you want to
be. If you feel my answer is wrong, than please explain why, and I'll
learn something.

If you're implying that having all the relays/contactors energized at the
same time is too much for the transformer, than I disagree-- relay and
contactor coils don't take all that much power (and besides, that woudln't
be a 'short' but an overload).

If I'm missing your point still -- then please stop being snarky and
explain. I'm not an HVAC tech so I might well be missing something
'obvious' to you (although I've successfully repaird a number of HVAC
issues, including a burned-out transformer (no I didn't kill it myself)).

-Tim

Yeah, the hvac people are assholes and won't help anyone anyway.

But the truly ironic part is that they also come here to not help
anyone as well.

Yep, instead they taunt my answers but fail to explain what they think is
wrong with them.

That is because you have no HVAC/R "cred". You need to rally your
peeps.

"GI" wrote in message
oups.com...
I tried to install a programmable thermostat over the weekend. It is a
one thermostat household with an air & gas furnace set-up (the wires to
the thermostat were W, R, G, Y--I think).

I took the old mercury thermostat off. When I tried to place the new
wires on, after a couple of bad insulation strip jobs, a wire or was to
short to connect. Since this was attached to the heating unit, I
thought I could at least turn it on and get AC until I can get a
professional out to fix the job. When I switched the breakers, nothing
happened. So I tried to put on the old thermostat, but now of a couple
of the wires are too short.

My Question:
Can the professional solder or extend the copper wires to make them
long enough to attach a new thermostat? I ran this by a HVAC tech that
comes well recommended, and he thought he might have to run new wires
from the HVAC units to the thermostat--is this necessary, or can these
wires just be extended from their existing location?

Knock a hole in the wall under the stat and wire nut some longer stat wires
on to the short wires. Call a drywall man out to fix the hole and a painter
to paint the repaired drywall. Drywallers and painters are cheaper than
hvac companies and most of them will work for beer money. Dont pay them
ahead of time.

Tim Fischer wrote:
"Anthony Berlin" wrote in message
. ..

Okay since you seem to be experiencing exceptional difficulty in the area
of
comprehension, lets see if you can answer your own question, based on the
assumption that there is no common feed from the transformer, and that the
thermostat is acting as a switch in a looped control system.....what other
factors would be necessarily considered with respect to shorting the
transformer secondary strictly from the thermostat, and we will even
remove
the possibility of the control wires directly grounding to metal of any
kind
at the thermostat, what other factors based on load consideration do you
think would result in a shorted secondary ?


Look, I'm not trying to be a jerk here, even though it seems you want to be.
If you feel my answer is wrong, than please explain why, and I'll learn
something.

If you're implying that having all the relays/contactors energized at the
same time is too much for the transformer, than I disagree-- relay and
contactor coils don't take all that much power (and besides, that woudln't
be a 'short' but an overload).

If I'm missing your point still -- then please stop being snarky and
explain. I'm not an HVAC tech so I might well be missing something
'obvious' to you (although I've successfully repaird a number of HVAC
issues, including a burned-out transformer (no I didn't kill it myself)).

-Tim

Tim... your wasting your time in an endless loop argument. If you feel
your premise is correct..Go ahead and do it! No skydiver ever got to the
ground just by doing a math model of the problem... You have to step out
of the airplane. If you should screw up! Consider the cost of a service
mans repairs to be the cost of education. The big beef here is that most
of us would rather see you post these questions to alt.home.repair only.
But you have been extremely polite sooo.. I encourage you to try out
your premise on your own.