Home Repair (alt.home.repair) For all homeowners and DIYers with many experienced tradesmen. Solve your toughest home fix-it problems.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Art
 
Posts: n/a
Default Fluorescent fixture won't light

This has come up before and I was about ready to replace the ballast. But
others have posted that sometimes corrosion could be preventing good contact
between the contacts on the long bulb and the fixture so I worked the bulb
in and out of the fixture several times and the fixture is now fixed. No
new ballast was needed.



  #2   Report Post  
Amun
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Art" wrote in message
ink.net...
This has come up before and I was about ready to replace the ballast. But
others have posted that sometimes corrosion could be preventing good

contact
between the contacts on the long bulb and the fixture so I worked the bulb
in and out of the fixture several times and the fixture is now fixed. No
new ballast was needed.


In this case your fix worked.

There is also another thing people should check, make sure the ballast case
has a good ground as well.
(Sand off a bit of paint/rust if needed)

Some cheaper ballasts/fixtures can be quite picky, right from new, and just
will not "start" themselves without a solid ground connection.

AMUN


  #3   Report Post  
Don Klipstein
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article , Amun wrote:

"Art" wrote in message
link.net...
This has come up before and I was about ready to replace the ballast. But
others have posted that sometimes corrosion could be preventing good

contact
between the contacts on the long bulb and the fixture so I worked the bulb
in and out of the fixture several times and the fixture is now fixed. No
new ballast was needed.


In this case your fix worked.

There is also another thing people should check, make sure the ballast case
has a good ground as well.
(Sand off a bit of paint/rust if needed)

Some cheaper ballasts/fixtures can be quite picky, right from new, and just
will not "start" themselves without a solid ground connection.


Another issue to consider:

Many 1.5 inch diameter 4-foot "F40" "Cool White" fluorescent bulbs are
not "true 40 watt" but "energy saver F40" which is actually 34 (sometimes
35) watts. These are generally crankier.
True 40-watters are usually "deluxe cool white" (which have less light
output) or triphosphor (color-brightening - usually more expensive). I
consider it worthwhile to get true 40-watters in a "triphosphor" version
such as Philips Ultralume or Sylvania "Designer" or "Interior Design" in
order to get good performance, full light output, and color distortions
mostly in the direction of making colors more vivid when using 4-foot 1.5
inch diameter bulbs.

If the bulb size is not 4 feet by 1.5 inch diameter, the above has much
less relevance.

- Don Klipstein , http://www.misty.com/~don/ltrouble.html)
Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Can I Mix 40 Watts and 25 Watts Light Bulbs in One Fixture? [email protected] Home Repair 23 March 31st 18 05:02 PM
New Light Fixture / Old wiring Jim Taylor Home Ownership 5 August 31st 05 04:41 PM
Change a light bulb Usenet Style Stormin Mormon Home Repair 1 July 18th 04 11:03 AM
Light bulb malfunction Oldylocks Home Repair 12 February 5th 04 01:51 PM
anyone know how to diagnose a faulty Choke / Ballast in fluorescent light circuit nick UK diy 14 July 7th 03 02:01 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 04:06 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"