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#1
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Use interior or exterior clear finish for window trim?
Hi,
Now that our new windows are installed, we plan to use a clear finish for the interior pine, such as a satin water-based Urethane. Is it best to use an exterior grade finish, or is an interior grade fine? I think some rain will eventually wet the surfaces, since we'll probably forget to close a window, or will be hit by a surprise rain storm. To prevent staining the wood, the contractor said to first apply one coat of finish before filling nail holes with a pine filler. Any other advice is welcome, too. Thanks. Dugie |
#2
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Dugie wrote: Hi, Now that our new windows are installed, we plan to use a clear finish for the interior pine, such as a satin water-based Urethane. Is it best to use an exterior grade finish, or is an interior grade fine? I think some rain will eventually wet the surfaces, since we'll probably forget to close a window, or will be hit by a surprise rain storm. To prevent staining the wood, the contractor said to first apply one coat of finish before filling nail holes with a pine filler. Any other advice is welcome, too. Thanks. Dugie Greetings, Of course most any product would do. If you want the best protection use an exterior oil based polyurethane. Just make sure you have some ventilation. Hope this helps, William |
#3
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" wrote in message
oups.com... Dugie wrote: Is it best to use an exterior grade finish, or is an interior grade fine? Greetings, Of course most any product would do. If you want the best protection use an exterior oil based polyurethane. Just make sure you have some ventilation. Hope this helps, William It does help, thanks. I'll have lots of ventilation, the fumes would be bad. So for the best, you would use exterior grade, and also an oil based polyurethane. To clarify: Why not Urethane? and why oil, rather than water, based? Not trying to be fussy. Would like to understand. :-) Dugie |
#4
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"Dugie" wrote in message ... " wrote in message oups.com... Dugie wrote: Is it best to use an exterior grade finish, or is an interior grade fine? Greetings, Of course most any product would do. If you want the best protection use an exterior oil based polyurethane. Just make sure you have some ventilation. Hope this helps, William It does help, thanks. I'll have lots of ventilation, the fumes would be bad. So for the best, you would use exterior grade, and also an oil based polyurethane. To clarify: Why not Urethane? and why oil, rather than water, based? Not trying to be fussy. Would like to understand. :-) Dugie With the high gloss finish urethane/polyurethane, after about two coats, it'll look good - after three, like a polished piece of glass. It will take many (6 or more from my own experience) to get a decent finish with the water based stuff. The low odour and easy clean up is nice but it tends to soak into the wood without doing much. Gord |
#5
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"Savage" wrote in message news:Jy8Te.256119$on1.183925@clgrps13... "Dugie" wrote in message ... " wrote in message oups.com... Dugie wrote: Is it best to use an exterior grade finish, or is an interior grade fine? Greetings, Of course most any product would do. If you want the best protection use an exterior oil based polyurethane. Just make sure you have some ventilation. Hope this helps, William It does help, thanks. I'll have lots of ventilation, the fumes would be bad. So for the best, you would use exterior grade, and also an oil based polyurethane. To clarify: Why not Urethane? and why oil, rather than water, based? Not trying to be fussy. Would like to understand. :-) Dugie With the high gloss finish urethane/polyurethane, after about two coats, it'll look good - after three, like a polished piece of glass. It will take many (6 or more from my own experience) to get a decent finish with the water based stuff. The low odour and easy clean up is nice but it tends to soak into the wood without doing much. Gord Agree with gord about the water vs oil. And just want to add that the only usual difference between interior and exterior finishes is perhaps a bit of extra UV protection, usually at about double the price. "Interior" will be fine, but if price is the same (or cheaper), use the "exterior". (it can't hurt) AMUN |
#6
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It will take many (6 or more from my own experience) to get a decent finish with the water based stuff. The low odour and easy clean up is nice but it tends to soak into the wood without doing much. Three coats of satin water based poly on our Douglas fir window casing. 600 paper after the first coat. Looks fine R |
#7
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"Rudy" wrote in message
news:77vTe.416709$5V4.336051@pd7tw3no... It will take many (6 or more from my own experience) to get a decent finish Three coats of satin water based poly on our Douglas fir window casing. 600 paper after the first coat. Looks fine R My main concern is having a finish which will resist accidental rain water, and also resist fading from sunlight. How long ago did you do the job? Oh, and filling the nail holes too: did you use commercial filler, or make your own filler? Dugie |
#8
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My main concern is having a finish which will resist accidental rain
water, and also resist fading from sunlight. How long ago did you do the job? A year ago..so far so good. The applicator used a high quality stain and rubbed in two coats of that first, We don't leave the windows open if it rains but YMMV Oh, and filling the nail holes too: did you use commercial filler, or make your own filler? We used a blend of 2 colored wax based "crayons" that matched our color. |
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