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NeoTek
 
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Default Genie Pro 98

I have a Genie Pro 98 screw drive garage door opener. The door worked
fine a few weeks ago, but now it is malfunctioning. It opens fine, but
it will not close at all. It does not have the safety sensors (like
most doors have) near the floor, so that is not an issue. I have
checked all the connections and they look right (I can't find the
manual to be 100% sure. I have tried closing it from the remote and
the button that is hardwired to the opener. If I manually turn the
screw in the back of the opener, it will work fine (up and down).
There are two sensors on the door. One is at the top (to stop it from
going up anymore). The other is at the front (to stop it from going
down). I know the top is working fine because if you push the lever
while it is going up, it will stop. The same applies for the front
one. The only thing I can think of is that the circuit board inside
the door opener is bad. Any ideas?

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Tony Hwang
 
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NeoTek wrote:
I have a Genie Pro 98 screw drive garage door opener. The door worked
fine a few weeks ago, but now it is malfunctioning. It opens fine, but
it will not close at all. It does not have the safety sensors (like
most doors have) near the floor, so that is not an issue. I have
checked all the connections and they look right (I can't find the
manual to be 100% sure. I have tried closing it from the remote and
the button that is hardwired to the opener. If I manually turn the
screw in the back of the opener, it will work fine (up and down).
There are two sensors on the door. One is at the top (to stop it from
going up anymore). The other is at the front (to stop it from going
down). I know the top is working fine because if you push the lever
while it is going up, it will stop. The same applies for the front
one. The only thing I can think of is that the circuit board inside
the door opener is bad. Any ideas?

Hi,
I have same type opener in my garage. Never had trouble in 10 years
except replacing burnt out bulbs. But lgoic tells me when the limit
switch is triggered, it should generate a sgnal to reverse the motor
turning direction probably by way of relay. Open the box cover and
see if there are relay(s). And see if they trips. I could look at mine
if needed.
Tony
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NeoTek
 
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Hi,

Thanks for the reply. What would the relays look like? I opened the
box and everything looked like it was connected. If you could open
yours as a reference, I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks.

Ryan

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Tony Hwang
 
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NeoTek wrote:
Hi,

Thanks for the reply. What would the relays look like? I opened the
box and everything looked like it was connected. If you could open
yours as a reference, I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks.

Ryan

Hi,
I removed the back cover and took a look. Looking at it from the back
facing the door, right side is basically radio receiver board for remote
control, antenna wire comes out of there. Back of motor has magnetic
chopper wheel which generates pulse signal when motor is turning(in motion).
Left side board has one 14 pin DIP I.C. and 3 sealed PCB type power
relays, and small transformer(probably to supply control voltage from
120V, AC).
If you're handy, You'd remove that board by removing wiring harness,
wires coming from push button swich, limit switches, etc. Check all the
discrete components;
some transistors, capacitors, resistors, relays plus visual inspection
for physical crack or poor solder joints, etc. I am sort of used to
trouble-shooting this type of things being a retired EE and life time
HAM op. Anything is fixable but at what cost?, LOL. I have all the time
in the world fiddling with things. Relays look like little black or blue
plastic cubes towards you, I see 3 of them mounted side by side.
If a relay is bad, either the coil is open or contacts are burnt out.
This type of relays typically have life of ~10,000 cycles.
Good luck,
Tony, VE6CGX
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Sounds like a bad motor winding (was quite common on some Genie
openers). What happens is the motor winding shorts to the motor housing
when it stops in a certain spot. So when you turn the screw by hand you
move the motor from that spot & that is why it will run afterwards.

Almost all parts for openers without photo-cells are obsolete so you
probably won't find a replacement. You could try moving the up limit
(closest to motor head) just a little bit to see if you can keep the
motor from stopping in that one spot, but even if it works it will
probably only be a temporary solution.

Doordoc
www.DoorsAndOpeners.com

P.S.All the relays are on the circuit board of under the 3 plastic
boxes. One is for the up, one for the down, & the third is for the
light.



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No, there are no brushes. The power goes from the capacitor directly to
the motor winding.

Doordoc

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