I'm in the process of remodeling my bathroom. I tore out the
solid-surface and drywall that was under it. I'm putting in a
fiberglass shower pan insert. I'm thinking of using felt, backerboard
and then tiling over that.

My question is, the flange of the insert sticks out about 1/3 of an
inch. So, I'd have to use furing strips, correct? However, what about
the transition from the backerboard to the drywall (about 6' up)? The
backboard will be sticking out about 1/3" of an inch. How do I go about
this problem?

Thanks for any advice!

wrote in message
ups.com...
I'm in the process of remodeling my bathroom. I tore out the
solid-surface and drywall that was under it. I'm putting in a
fiberglass shower pan insert. I'm thinking of using felt, backerboard
and then tiling over that.

My question is, the flange of the insert sticks out about 1/3 of an
inch. So, I'd have to use furing strips, correct? However, what about
the transition from the backerboard to the drywall (about 6' up)? The
backboard will be sticking out about 1/3" of an inch. How do I go about
this problem?

Thanks for any advice!


You can put a flashing over the shower pan lip ( like a Z bar) The Backer
should be the same thickness as the sheet rock. Your sheet rock should be
1/2 " They make a 1/2" backer board. Also make sure your shower pan is
level, check the floor for level or you first row of tile will look bad .

wrote:
I'm in the process of remodeling my bathroom. I tore out the
solid-surface and drywall that was under it. I'm putting in a
fiberglass shower pan insert. I'm thinking of using felt, backerboard
and then tiling over that.

My question is, the flange of the insert sticks out about 1/3 of an
inch. So, I'd have to use furing strips, correct? However, what about
the transition from the backerboard to the drywall (about 6' up)? The
backboard will be sticking out about 1/3" of an inch. How do I go about
this problem?

Furr out everything, have a transitional cap tile at the change in
materials to give the wall a feeling of more depth, notch the framing
so the tile flange is flush with the outside of the studs.

R

I used 1/4" hardibacker board, and 1/4" firring strips (plywood I cut),
so the two pretty much matched up (this was for a tub, not pan, but same
issue). Then the tile of course set out from that, but not too bad with
the mortar (~1/16"+). Used a bullnose finish piece at the edges, and
looks great.

wrote:
I'm in the process of remodeling my bathroom. I tore out the
solid-surface and drywall that was under it. I'm putting in a
fiberglass shower pan insert. I'm thinking of using felt, backerboard
and then tiling over that.

My question is, the flange of the insert sticks out about 1/3 of an
inch. So, I'd have to use furing strips, correct? However, what about
the transition from the backerboard to the drywall (about 6' up)? The
backboard will be sticking out about 1/3" of an inch. How do I go about
this problem?

Thanks for any advice!

Oh and when I started tiling, I drew a level line about 1 ft up from
edge of tub, screwed a level support base for the tile (1x2) all along
the edge, and tiled that first, and tiled up to the ceiling (or
whereever your top edge is). Then removed the support strip,and used the
blue tape to support the last 2 rows of tile. Get your measurements
correct for the support strip, and you shouldn't have to cut the last
row of tiles (too much). Oh, and some might say different, but the 1/4"
hardibacker is plenty stiff and rigid for wall use (according to two
tile pros I talked to-that is all they use), and is soooo much easier to
work with than anything else out there. It has held up fine in my
application for 5 years. 16" on center is OK I think, for verticle
support studs. They also reccommend horizontal support at the edges.
Stay away from the Durock. Messy, and freakin HEAVY.

wrote:

I'm in the process of remodeling my bathroom. I tore out the
solid-surface and drywall that was under it. I'm putting in a
fiberglass shower pan insert. I'm thinking of using felt, backerboard
and then tiling over that.

My question is, the flange of the insert sticks out about 1/3 of an
inch. So, I'd have to use furing strips, correct? However, what about
the transition from the backerboard to the drywall (about 6' up)? The
backboard will be sticking out about 1/3" of an inch. How do I go about
this problem?

Thanks for any advice!

Guys, thanks for the responses. I did find this very good explaination
on John Bridge's site.

http://johnbridge.com/vbulletin/show...hower+flang e

Yeah thats right. I stopped the hardibacker 1" or so above the edge of
the tub flange, and then the tile goes down to ~1/8" from tub edge, and
calk.



wrote:
Guys, thanks for the responses. I did find this very good explaination
on John Bridge's site.

http://johnbridge.com/vbulletin/show...hower+flang e

Thanks Chester. You know, it really didn't occur to me, until I started
looking at the pan. I thought to myself, wait now, if the backboard
extends beyond the flange, and I have to fur the studs, the drywall
will protrude from the rest of the surrounding drywall.

well I actually did "fur the studs", because I used 1/4" hardibacker.
It's a trade-off, since 1/4" is cheaper, much lighter, and easier to
work with (I was able to use a jigsaw to cut it for plumbing cutouts and
such, using a steel blade-although they didn't last too long), but..I
had to fur the studs.

wrote:
Thanks Chester. You know, it really didn't occur to me, until I started
looking at the pan. I thought to myself, wait now, if the backboard
extends beyond the flange, and I have to fur the studs, the drywall
will protrude from the rest of the surrounding drywall.