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Garage height...8 feet or 10 feet?
I am about to start building a 24 X 28 stand alone garage/shop. I
decided against doing a course or 2 of concrete block and then 8ft walls and I will just frame it from the pad up. So that leaves me with the decision of 8' or 10' ceiling height. I know more space is generally better, but if the space is for casual car repair and wood working, is 10' really needed? anybody out there do 8' and really regret it? It's not so much the cost that I'm worried about as I am doing this myself and 10' will mean more work and I want to be sure its worth it. thanks for you help. |
my opinion is to go tall but thats up to you. i have 12 foot
ceiling in my 30x50 and it comes in handy quite often. lucas |
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Think of it this way every sheet of plywood, 2x4 or lots of other stuff
comes in 8' lengths, try manoeuvring that around when you installed a ceiling that is just shy of 8' when you add ceiling material etc. I wouldn't even consider 8' and 10' is the minimum. Now in I do know of a shop that had the roof trusses changed so that the section where the car pulls in is over 12' and the rest is 8' WORKS GREAT. Also in my area of Ontario I would put a few rows of block down first to help keep blowing snow and rain out. |
Most residential garages (attached) are 9 feet + due to the even top plates
and the drop from the living area floor joists and 8' ceilings. Most garage door tracks are set up for this height. You see 8 feet in garage-unders. They are very cramped and the garage doors require special low-headroom tracks. Go 9'-4" or better. wrote in message oups.com... I am about to start building a 24 X 28 stand alone garage/shop. I decided against doing a course or 2 of concrete block and then 8ft walls and I will just frame it from the pad up. So that leaves me with the decision of 8' or 10' ceiling height. I know more space is generally better, but if the space is for casual car repair and wood working, is 10' really needed? anybody out there do 8' and really regret it? It's not so much the cost that I'm worried about as I am doing this myself and 10' will mean more work and I want to be sure its worth it. thanks for you help. |
wrote in message oups.com... I am about to start building a 24 X 28 stand alone garage/shop. I decided against doing a course or 2 of concrete block and then 8ft walls and I will just frame it from the pad up. So that leaves me with the decision of 8' or 10' ceiling height. I know more space is generally better, but if the space is for casual car repair and wood working, is 10' really needed? anybody out there do 8' and really regret it? It's not so much the cost that I'm worried about as I am doing this myself and 10' will mean more work and I want to be sure its worth it. thanks for you help. I would go with 10'. I would also lay up the 2 courses of block because it makes hosing out the interior so much simpler. Colbyt |
I couldn't agree more - lay up a couple of courses - at least one - not only
for hosing down but if there is any grass and soil present on the grounds or any deciduous trees the bottom plate of the walls will not be subject to rot after a couple of years when leaves are not raked and hold water from rain or snow. The couple of courses give you all the headroom needed to drive a van or SUV into the garage for loading and unloading. The extra cost for the door is paid back in utility value. %= Clinton Gallagher METROmilwaukee (sm) "A Regional Information Service" NET csgallagher AT metromilwaukee.com URL http://metromilwaukee.com/ URL http://clintongallagher.metromilwaukee.com/ "Colbyt" wrote in message news:3j8Be.170559$nG6.151882@attbi_s22... wrote in message oups.com... I am about to start building a 24 X 28 stand alone garage/shop. I decided against doing a course or 2 of concrete block and then 8ft walls and I will just frame it from the pad up. So that leaves me with the decision of 8' or 10' ceiling height. I know more space is generally better, but if the space is for casual car repair and wood working, is 10' really needed? anybody out there do 8' and really regret it? It's not so much the cost that I'm worried about as I am doing this myself and 10' will mean more work and I want to be sure its worth it. thanks for you help. I would go with 10'. I would also lay up the 2 courses of block because it makes hosing out the interior so much simpler. Colbyt |
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wrote in message oups.com... I am about to start building a 24 X 28 stand alone garage/shop. I decided against doing a course or 2 of concrete block and then 8ft walls and I will just frame it from the pad up. So that leaves me with the decision of 8' or 10' ceiling height. I know more space is generally better, but if the space is for casual car repair and wood working, is 10' really needed? anybody out there do 8' and really regret it? It's not so much the cost that I'm worried about as I am doing this myself and 10' will mean more work and I want to be sure its worth it. thanks for you help. Think about smacking into the fluorescent light tubes with long 2x4s as you move them around. Maybe. And, about the lack of cinder blocks: Unless you're using treated lumber at the bottom, you might wish you'd done a course of blocks at the bottom. At my previous house, the garage was build right on the pad. I never liked the looks of the wood at the bottom, especially since a hard rain on one side always caused seepage under the wood. Granted, the garage didn't have siding, but still.....a course of blocks would've been a good thing. |
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wrote in message the decision of 8' or 10' ceiling height. I know more space is generally better, but if the space is for casual car repair and wood working, is 10' really needed? anybody out there do 8' and really regret it? I have a detached garage that is 9' I would never think about anything less. Handling lumber, clearance for the door opener, ducting for a dust collector, hanging lights, etc. You already know the answer, just do it. |
I am about to start building a 24 X 28 stand alone garage/shop. I
decided against doing a course or 2 of concrete block and then 8ft walls and I will just frame it from the pad up. So that leaves me with the decision of 8' or 10' ceiling height. I know more space is generally better, but if the space is for casual car repair and wood working, is 10' really needed? anybody out there do 8' and really regret it? It's not so much the cost that I'm worried about as I am doing this myself and 10' will mean more work and I want to be sure its worth it. A few years ago, my wife and I built our own garage, also 24'x28'. Originally, I had planned on a slab foundation, with 8' high walls framed on top. I decided against the slab foundation because there was no "easy" way to provide a slope to the floor and still have a level perimeter for the walls. Water dripping off the cars would either sit in the middle of the floor, or drain towards the walls and potentially rot the sills. Hosing out the inside would have been difficult, as I would need to stay away from the wood walls. And, a slab would have put the exterior siding too close to the ground, especially on our slightly sloped site. Instead, we poured a 2' high concrete perimeter wall and footing ourselves, and then hired a crew to come in and pour the sloped interior slab for us. It was a bit more expensive and a little more work, but I've had no regrets. In addition, if the slab should ever crack and need replacing, I can easily tear it out and pour a new slab. That wouldn't be possible with a slab foundation. I then framed my 8' walls on top of the perimeter concrete wall. With the thickness of the slab and a little overlap for the plywood siding, I ended up with around 9-1/2' of interior ceiling height. But, I was still able to use standard 8' materials (studs, plywood, sheetrock, etc.) which kept the material costs the same. I've used our garage mostly for woodworking, and the occasional car repair. I can't imagine having an 8' ceiling now. I can easily flip an 8' board end to end, or rotate a sheet of plywood on edge, without hitting the ceiling. It also allows me to stand 8' lumber supplies on end against the walls. This takes up a lot less space than storing them horizontally. I can stand my 16' extension ladder (8' when closed) against the wall instead of wasting wall space to hang it up. Even when working on cars, it's easier to move my tall halogen worklight around without banging the ceiling. And I would have more room to work if I needed to use a hoist to pull an engine. Remember that whatever your ceiling height is, you'll still have lights, garage door tracks, and maybe garage door openers sticking down below the ceiling. My door tracks are just over 8' high, and I HAVE banged into them several times when swinging boards around. The only thing I would do different is pour a small curb for the side entry door. Mine sits right on the slab, and any water that finds it's way inside runs up against the wood frame of the door. I forsee having to replace the door sometime in the future because the threshold will probably rot out. A concrete curb, even just an inch or two, would have prevented this. Anyway, go for the taller ceiling. You won't regret it. Anthony |
is 10' really needed? anybody out there do 8' Mine is 10' 3" with a 8' X 16' door..for the reasons all the others gave. I agree with the foundation theory: footers and stemwalls with the sloped floor poured after. Thats how our last two were done but it was easier as they were "attached" & done when the house was built R |
Go for the 10' height.
And don't forget to install a 8' high garage door. I just built this house and installed a standard 7' high garage and then bought a hi-top van................which won't go in the garage. I made up two small wheels to put on the rear of the van so I can get it into the garage when I work on it. -- JerryD(upstateNY) wrote in message oups.com... I am about to start building a 24 X 28 stand alone garage/shop. I decided against doing a course or 2 of concrete block and then 8ft walls and I will just frame it from the pad up. So that leaves me with the decision of 8' or 10' ceiling height. I know more space is generally better, but if the space is for casual car repair and wood working, is 10' really needed? anybody out there do 8' and really regret it? It's not so much the cost that I'm worried about as I am doing this myself and 10' will mean more work and I want to be sure its worth it. thanks for you help. |
Considering my needs for a small workshop, and intermittent SMALL car
maintenance usage, 8' high walls were fine. Dealt with the overhead ceiling height requirements for the garage door hardware, trolley, rails, stops, by framing a ceiling area for just that. The rest of the ceiling is 8'. wrote in message oups.com... I am about to start building a 24 X 28 stand alone garage/shop. I decided against doing a course or 2 of concrete block and then 8ft walls and I will just frame it from the pad up. So that leaves me with the decision of 8' or 10' ceiling height. I know more space is generally better, but if the space is for casual car repair and wood working, is 10' really needed? anybody out there do 8' and really regret it? It's not so much the cost that I'm worried about as I am doing this myself and 10' will mean more work and I want to be sure its worth it. thanks for you help. |
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On Wed, 13 Jul 2005 14:27:08 GMT, Tony Hwang wrote:
Duane Bozarth wrote: wrote: I am about to start building a 24 X 28 stand alone garage/shop. I decided against doing a course or 2 of concrete block and then 8ft walls and I will just frame it from the pad up. So that leaves me with the decision of 8' or 10' ceiling height. I know more space is generally better, but if the space is for casual car repair and wood working, is 10' really needed? anybody out there do 8' and really regret it? It's not so much the cost that I'm worried about as I am doing this myself and 10' will mean more work and I want to be sure its worth it. thanks for you help. ======================================= As a woodworker with close to 40 years in that hobby I can tell you that a 8 foot ceiling works just fine about 90 percent of the time...BUT there have been enough times and projects over the years that leads me to suggest that you drop a few extra bucks now and put in 10 foot ceilings...Just a lot easier swinging full sheets of plywood around... I also play with cars...AS A hobby...everything from my own normal oil changes to complete frame off restorations... spend way too many winter evenings laying on cold concrete playing under a car....and I should have purchased a lift 20 years ago... I put in 12 foot ceilings in my garage and put in 3 lifts...a couple of 4 posters and a 2 post lift... Was it worth it YOU BET.... 10 and a half foot would have been enough so I could walk under a car without banging my head but the wives Mini Van made me go to a12 foot height... actually 10 foot would work but you may have to duck under an exhaust pipe or muffler ... you may never know when you just may have a desire to do more then casual work on a car... By all means go at leat 10 foot.... Bob Griffiths |
My brother works on '32 Fords.
I think he has reworked his garage to give more head room. For my part, I always use a course of block so a garage can be washed out. TB |
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Sold on 10ft. Thanks all for the great responses.
My new plan is to lay 2 courses of 8" concrete block and then use standard 8ft studs and work with 8ft sections of wall so I can tilt them up myself. I will use morter to lay the block, screen after first course and then fill the second course with concrete (or morter?) with j bolts. Do I need to fill each block on the second course? or just the ones with the jbolts? |
On 13 Jul 2005 19:41:57 -0700, "Harry K"
wrote: wrote: I am about to start building a 24 X 28 stand alone garage/shop. I decided against doing a course or 2 of concrete block and then 8ft walls and I will just frame it from the pad up. So that leaves me with the decision of 8' or 10' ceiling height. I know more space is generally better, but if the space is for casual car repair and wood working, is 10' really needed? anybody out there do 8' and really regret it? It's not so much the cost that I'm worried about as I am doing this myself and 10' will mean more work and I want to be sure its worth it. thanks for you help. 10ft by all means! Someone mentioned pouring 2ft kneewalls then a slab later. Very good idea. Doors: If using 2 doors, go for the widest you can fit. I replaced a slider with a 8' wide a few years ago. Have kicked my ass ever since for not going with a 9'. Had to totally reframe the front of the garage in any case and the wider door would not have caused any extra work or expense. Harry K ============================= Sorry about the double posts yesterday...lost my internet connection and thought I lost the first post completely ... This post is concerning the doors.... I installed roll up doors similar to the doors found on loading docks... the cost was only a few dollars more then a regular door....the advantage is that they do not take up any room inside the garage ...do not hang over your head when open etc....no tracks takling up ceiling space and do not interfer with lights... Bob G. |
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My new plan is to lay 2 courses of 8" concrete block
I know block is common in many parts of the country, but I really prefer poured concrete. It's stronger, and less likely to leak, shift, or crack. Around here we put 1/2" rebar in the footing, 1/2" rebar in the top of the wall, and short vertical 1/2" rebar sections every 4' tying the footing and wall together. All rebar and anchor bolts have to be wired in place and inspected before the concrete is poured. It's practically indestructable!:) Yes, you have to build the forms and take them down again afterwards, but the actual concrete pour is usually done in less than an hour. You work fast and hard, but it's very satisfying when you pull the forms and see the final work. And, you can always hire the foundation out if you're not comfortable with that part. Anthony |
In article .com,
wrote: anybody out there do 8' and really regret it? My classic Land Cruiser FJ40 will not clear a standard door on an 8' garage with the ski rack on. -- a href="http://www.poohsticks.org/drew/"Home Page/a In 1913 the inflation adjusted (in 2003 dollars) exemption for single people was $54,567, married couples' exemption $72,756, the next $363,783 was taxed at 1%, and earnings over $9,094,578 were taxed at the top rate of 7%. |
As others have posted, I'd go 10ft. Just imagine trying to stand a
4x8 sheet of plywood on end under an 8ft ceiling - that extra 2ft will really make a big difference. I also like the idea of at least a foot or so of concrete at the wall bases. It will make cleanup much less of a chore. We just finished up sheetrock work in the attached 3-car garage for our new house. Due to complexities in our design, we had some walls that were framed all the way from basically floor height and others that sat over 1ft concrete stem walls. In other words, we had both 9 and 10 ft walls to frame. One thing that made the job easier was getting both 1/2" CDX sheathing and drywall in 4x10 sheets. Pre-cut studs are also available for 10ft walls (116-5/8"). Many people don't know about 4x10 sheets of plywood. You won't find them at the big box, but a decent lumber yard should carry them. Finally, be careful to maintain enough room for the garage door hardware. I had to run some ventilation ducts and plumbing waste lines along the middle of our garage ceiling. By the time they were soffitted in, it put a real squeeze on the door hardware. We ended up going with low headroom tracks on all three doors and one still had no room left for an automatic opener (no big deal right now since this stall is essentially shop space). And if you want a really clean look, make sure to install wires beforehand for the garage door opener buttons and safety sensors. I luckily remembered to do this the afternoon prior to the crew showing up to hang rock. Richard Johnson PE Camano Island, WA |
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Yes, you should tie the top course of block together, its called a bond
beam. #4 steel continueous in the top course of your stem/pony whatever you want to call it... 48inches O.C. solid grout on your verticle steel and at every corner or door etc.... Regarding height, I build my detached garage 24x36 with 9 foot ceilings, BUT the car parking spot is set 4 inches lower than the workspace at grade. So net on the lintel that spans the garage door opening (8'x16') is 16 inches. Making the net ceiling hieght in the car park 9'4". |
Taller is better. I also want to do woodworking in my garage. In order
to capture all the dust from woodworking tools at the source, I want to install a very good dust collector -- and I really want to install a "cyclone" style dust collector. The problem is that the ceiling in my garage is low and cyclone needs to be tall in order to effectively capture all the very fine dusts (something to do with spinning down the fine dusts to slow them down and let them fall to the dust bin at the bottom of the cyclone). Therefore, the only place that I can position the cyclone is in the middle of the garage where the top of the cyclone can stick out between the trusses. But this creates other complication that has conflict with other stuff in the garage. Consequently, I get a regular dust collector instead of a cyclone. Unfortunately, that regular dust collector cannot filter out as fine dust as the cyclone. If my garage had a high ceiling, I would not have to make that compromise. Jay Chan |
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Garage height...8 feet or 10 feet?
replying to dbuckley, Joseph wrote:
Im looking to build a garage to help a friend he wants its slab of 12x20 and to make the pitch come right off front of his house for one car personal use if i got an 8' x 8' door what size opening would i have to fram in for it -- for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...eet-12534-.htm |
Garage height...8 feet or 10 feet?
On Wed, 04 Oct 2017 16:44:01 GMT, Joseph
m wrote: replying to dbuckley, Joseph wrote: Im looking to build a garage to help a friend he wants its slab of 12x20 and to make the pitch come right off front of his house for one car personal use if i got an 8' x 8' door what size opening would i have to fram in for it About yeah tall and about yeah wide is a good guess. |
Garage height...8 feet or 10 feet?
Im looking to build a garage to help a friend he wants its slab of 12x20 and to make the pitch come right off front of his house for one car personal use if i got an 8' x 8' door what size opening would i have to frame in for it About yeah tall and about yeah wide is a good guess. ... dunno. for a real nice fit - I'd frame it a tad smaller - then plane down the door. If it's a metal door - you might need to re-sharpen your hand plane a few times. John T. |
Garage height...8 feet or 10 feet?
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Garage height...8 feet or 10 feet?
On Wed, 04 Oct 2017 14:18:41 -0700, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 04 Oct 2017 17:09:09 -0400, wrote: Im looking to build a garage to help a friend he wants its slab of 12x20 and to make the pitch come right off front of his house for one car personal use if i got an 8' x 8' door what size opening would i have to frame in for it About yeah tall and about yeah wide is a good guess. .. dunno. for a real nice fit - I'd frame it a tad smaller - then plane down the door. If it's a metal door - you might need to re-sharpen your hand plane a few times. John T. ...but the header will be wider. OP never said if the header is wood, concrete or steel I-Beam. .. I guess .. you're right, again .. a hand plane doesn't stay sharp for long - on those steel I-Beams or concrete. I give up. It can't be done. John T. |
Garage height...8 feet or 10 feet?
On Wednesday, October 4, 2017 at 12:44:06 PM UTC-4, Joseph wrote:
replying to dbuckley, Joseph wrote: Im looking to build a garage to help a friend he wants its slab of 12x20 and to make the pitch come right off front of his house for one car personal use if i got an 8' x 8' door what size opening would i have to fram in for it -- for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...eet-12534-.htm What do the install instructions for the door say? If you have to ask, might not be a good idea to be doing this work for someone else. 8x8 is an odd door size too. |
Garage height...8 feet or 10 feet?
On Wed, 04 Oct 2017 17:29:17 -0400, wrote:
On Wed, 04 Oct 2017 14:18:41 -0700, Oren wrote: On Wed, 04 Oct 2017 17:09:09 -0400, wrote: Im looking to build a garage to help a friend he wants its slab of 12x20 and to make the pitch come right off front of his house for one car personal use if i got an 8' x 8' door what size opening would i have to frame in for it About yeah tall and about yeah wide is a good guess. .. dunno. for a real nice fit - I'd frame it a tad smaller - then plane down the door. If it's a metal door - you might need to re-sharpen your hand plane a few times. John T. ...but the header will be wider. OP never said if the header is wood, concrete or steel I-Beam. .. I guess .. you're right, again .. a hand plane doesn't stay sharp for long - on those steel I-Beams or concrete. I give up. It can't be done. John T. The OP want to "help a friend". My take is the "friend" should pass on the offer. Maybe I'm wrong. |
Garage height...8 feet or 10 feet?
In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 04 Oct 2017 16:44:01 GMT, Joseph
m wrote: replying to dbuckley, Joseph wrote: Im looking to build a garage to help a friend he wants its slab of 12x20 and to make the pitch come right off front of his house for one car personal use if i got an 8' x 8' door what size opening would i have to fram in for it The interesting thing that was in the back of my mind about homoaners, that I confirmed today, is that what appears here is called a reply to dbuckley, but it's actually what dbuckley wrote, and none of the reply is included. I also saw that one or more of the regular posters here is now posting there. I guess the off topic posts, especially the ones by burfordpjackass, have caused them to leave. |
Garage height...8 feet or 10 feet?
On Wednesday, October 4, 2017 at 9:07:46 PM UTC-4, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 04 Oct 2017 16:44:01 GMT, Joseph m wrote: replying to dbuckley, Joseph wrote: Im looking to build a garage to help a friend he wants its slab of 12x20 and to make the pitch come right off front of his house for one car personal use if i got an 8' x 8' door what size opening would i have to fram in for it The interesting thing that was in the back of my mind about homoaners, that I confirmed today, is that what appears here is called a reply to dbuckley, but it's actually what dbuckley wrote, That isn't what I'm seeing. The above was written by Joseph as a reply to an original old post from dbuckley. and none of the reply is included. None of the post he's replying to is included. I've gone round and round with Iggy from HomeMoaners on that. He does the same thing, replies to some ancient post, doesn't quote any of it, so you have no context, you have to go read the old post. He won't change, he's so dumb that he claims he's not on Usenet. What I still haven't figured out is how it is that folks at HMH keep finding these old posts. That Iggy, dredges them up, like the 10 year old question was asked yesterday. I asked him what the process is that leads to that, never got an answer. I would not be surprised it HMH is doing it, to increase traffic. |
Garage height...8 feet or 10 feet?
In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 4 Oct 2017 18:27:35 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote: On Wednesday, October 4, 2017 at 9:07:46 PM UTC-4, micky wrote: In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 04 Oct 2017 16:44:01 GMT, Joseph m wrote: replying to dbuckley, Joseph wrote: Im looking to build a garage to help a friend he wants its slab of 12x20 and to make the pitch come right off front of his house for one car personal use if i got an 8' x 8' door what size opening would i have to fram in for it Oh, you're right. The full text of Joseph's reply is to quote the first 3 lines of dbuckley's original post. The interesting thing that was in the back of my mind about homoaners, that I confirmed today, is that what appears here is called a reply to dbuckley, but it's actually what dbuckley wrote, That isn't what I'm seeing. The above was written by Joseph as a reply to an original old post from dbuckley. and none of the reply is included. None of the post he's replying to is included. In this case, his entire reply is 3 lines of the the post he's replying to. So this one might be unusual. You're other post made it to the website, but not mine, because I commented on their methods. I've gone round and round with Iggy from HomeMoaners on that. He does the same thing, replies to some ancient post, doesn't quote any of it, so you have no context, you have to go read the old post. He won't change, he's so dumb that he claims he's not on Usenet. What I still haven't figured out is how it is that folks at HMH keep finding these old posts. That Iggy, dredges them up, like the 10 year old question was asked yesterday. I asked him what the process is that leads to that, never got an answer. I would not be surprised it HMH is doing it, to increase traffic. And I was wrong about our posters posting there recently. They were both posts in 2005. Might even been posted from AHR. |
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