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donald
 
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Default roof for sandbox

I need a little info. I have a sandbox which is 10'x12' and I would like to
put a roof over the sandox. I am going to use 4x4's (in contrete) for the
main supports and 2x10's for the horizontal span. then I will put 2x8 (16"
on center) sitting vertically with a lattus over the top. This is not
supporting too much weight. I will have the roof extend 1 foot on each end.
This will make the actual roof 12'x14'.

Can I get by with a post in each corner or do I need three supports on the
two 14' sides?

Thanks


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Gene
 
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On Wed, 1 Jun 2005 16:46:31 -0500, "donald" wrote:

I need a little info. I have a sandbox which is 10'x12' and I would like to
put a roof over the sandox. I am going to use 4x4's (in contrete) for the
main supports and 2x10's for the horizontal span. then I will put 2x8 (16"
on center) sitting vertically with a lattus over the top. This is not
supporting too much weight. I will have the roof extend 1 foot on each end.
This will make the actual roof 12'x14'.

Can I get by with a post in each corner or do I need three supports on the
two 14' sides?

Thanks


I can't say is this is right or not. But I would make it coverable
(The sand) as cats LOVE sand to use...
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Pop
 
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"donald" wrote in message
...
I need a little info. I have a sandbox which is
10'x12' and I would like to put a roof over the
sandox. I am going to use 4x4's (in contrete) for the
main supports and 2x10's for the horizontal span. then
I will put 2x8 (16" on center) sitting vertically with
a lattus over the top. This is not supporting too much
weight. I will have the roof extend 1 foot on each
end. This will make the actual roof 12'x14'.

Can I get by with a post in each corner or do I need
three supports on the two 14' sides?

Thanks


What you have is fine: Just add a couple of 45 degree
"arms" at each corner to help hold up the middle of the
spam. REmember to put the bowed side of the timbers
upwards.


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Colbyt
 
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"donald" wrote in message
...
I need a little info. I have a sandbox which is 10'x12' and I would like

to
put a roof over the sandox. I am going to use 4x4's (in contrete) for the
main supports and 2x10's for the horizontal span. then I will put 2x8 (16"
on center) sitting vertically with a lattus over the top. This is not
supporting too much weight. I will have the roof extend 1 foot on each

end.
This will make the actual roof 12'x14'.

Can I get by with a post in each corner or do I need three supports on the
two 14' sides?

Thanks



You are over building and will be fine.

The 2x10's are good. Ok for 14' with such a light load.

You could use 2x6x12's for the (10 foot + overhang) flat roof span. There
are a lot of single story ranch homes that used 2x6 to span 12 foot for the
floor load.

Just make sure you get the posts set to a depth that is below the freeze
line for you area, put about 6" of gravel in the bottom of the hole and
check the ends of the 4x's for the growth rings. Try to get center cuts.
Meaning the more it looks like a bull's-eye, the better you are doing. The
more off center it is, the more likely to twist.

The 45 degree arms mentioned by another poster will add a lot of wind
resistance to the structure.


Colbyt


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donald
 
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Great! The land in this area is loaded with rocks and digging these are not
easy, even with a power auger. Here is the rundown on what I will be doing:
I will go 4' deep with the holes, add 6 inches of gravel, put concrete
around the posts. The size will be 12'x14'. I will use double horizontal (2"
x10"x14') supports across the 14' span. Then I will install a cantilever
support on each horizontal support. Next I will put 2"x6"x12' boards on end
24" on center. Then top the entire structure with lattus.

Does this sound good to you? Since these are not load bearing I figured 24"
on center should be fine.


"Colbyt" wrote in message
...

"donald" wrote in message
...
I need a little info. I have a sandbox which is 10'x12' and I would like

to
put a roof over the sandox. I am going to use 4x4's (in contrete) for the
main supports and 2x10's for the horizontal span. then I will put 2x8
(16"
on center) sitting vertically with a lattus over the top. This is not
supporting too much weight. I will have the roof extend 1 foot on each

end.
This will make the actual roof 12'x14'.

Can I get by with a post in each corner or do I need three supports on
the
two 14' sides?

Thanks



You are over building and will be fine.

The 2x10's are good. Ok for 14' with such a light load.

You could use 2x6x12's for the (10 foot + overhang) flat roof span. There
are a lot of single story ranch homes that used 2x6 to span 12 foot for
the
floor load.

Just make sure you get the posts set to a depth that is below the freeze
line for you area, put about 6" of gravel in the bottom of the hole and
check the ends of the 4x's for the growth rings. Try to get center cuts.
Meaning the more it looks like a bull's-eye, the better you are doing. The
more off center it is, the more likely to twist.

The 45 degree arms mentioned by another poster will add a lot of wind
resistance to the structure.


Colbyt






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Colbyt
 
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Default


"donald" wrote in message
...
Great! The land in this area is loaded with rocks and digging these are

not
easy, even with a power auger. Here is the rundown on what I will be

doing:
I will go 4' deep with the holes, add 6 inches of gravel, put concrete
around the posts. The size will be 12'x14'. I will use double horizontal

(2"
x10"x14') supports across the 14' span. Then I will install a cantilever
support on each horizontal support. Next I will put 2"x6"x12' boards on

end
24" on center. Then top the entire structure with lattus.

Does this sound good to you? Since these are not load bearing I figured

24"
on center should be fine.


You know your "freeze depth" better than I. Around here 2.5' would be deep
enough.

According to the data in my span table, #2 2x6's used a ceiling joists
supporting 2 lbs. per square foot of drywall are good for an 11' span when
spaced on 24" centers and 13.75' when spaced on 16" centers. The lattice
weighs considerably less than drywall.

I would be more concerned about the lattice bowing/sagging on the 24"
centers. It is designed for vertical applications. It is only going to cost
4 extra joists to do it on 16" centers. And then when the wife wants to
plant and train a vine to cover it, you will have the structure to support
the extra weight.

BTW just in case you don't know, the footprint is square (the four posts)
when the measurements of the diagonals (think big X) is equal. The more time
you spend getting the posts laid out square the easier the balance of the
project.

If you can, post or send me a picture when done.

Colbyt

The email address with the with the obvious removed is valid.


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