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#1
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Wood floor with a border
I've already bought the wood.
I plan to put a 10 inch border all the way around the room of Brazilian cherry. Then I plan to "fill" the interior with hickory. Should I do all the border first? Then fill? I'm worried about the interior having perfect 90 degree (i.e. square) corners. If they aren't square I'll get little gaps. Suggestions? P.S. Between this project and the pergola project mentioned in a previous post, I have all my summer Saturdays taken! |
#3
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I don't understand your answer. The border I'm referrinf to is not the
moulding (aka baseboard), it's actually floor, too. |
#4
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wrote:
I don't understand your answer. The border I'm referrinf to is not the moulding (aka baseboard), it's actually floor, too. Oops. Field first, having layed out and 'squared' the room with tape measure and with chalk lines for reference. Here are some helpful install tips. http://www.nofma.org/faq.htm#installationq3 http://www.andersonfloors.com/instca...st.aspx#Layout |
#5
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Thanks for the references......
I spoke with the installer at the place I bought the wood and recommends exactly the opposite! I.e. put the border in first. He says that, yes, when you reach the far side, the angles may not be exactly 90 degrees but its easier to cut 89 degrees on the miter saw than to get the "field" centered and true and them put in the border. He also says, you can make both ways work. Not sure what I'll do -- I'll have to decide tomorrow. |
#6
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wrote in message oups.com... Thanks for the references...... I spoke with the installer at the place I bought the wood and recommends exactly the opposite! I.e. put the border in first. He says that, yes, when you reach the far side, the angles may not be exactly 90 degrees but its easier to cut 89 degrees on the miter saw than to get the "field" centered and true and them put in the border. He also says, you can make both ways work. Not sure what I'll do -- I'll have to decide tomorrow. if you do the field first, and make it square, then you can add the border easily. if the room isn't square, you can usually hide the off-ness under the shoe molding. at least the non-squareness will be at the edge and hopefully under something, so you won't see it as much. |
#7
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I agree. Nothing is perfectly square. The room itself may be off, having a
border sort of force your hand to decide where to hide the unevenness. Hide them all under the baseboards. Don't hide half in the baseboards and half on the other side of the border. "Charles Spitzer" wrote in message ... wrote in message oups.com... Thanks for the references...... I spoke with the installer at the place I bought the wood and recommends exactly the opposite! I.e. put the border in first. He says that, yes, when you reach the far side, the angles may not be exactly 90 degrees but its easier to cut 89 degrees on the miter saw than to get the "field" centered and true and them put in the border. He also says, you can make both ways work. Not sure what I'll do -- I'll have to decide tomorrow. if you do the field first, and make it square, then you can add the border easily. if the room isn't square, you can usually hide the off-ness under the shoe molding. at least the non-squareness will be at the edge and hopefully under something, so you won't see it as much. |
#8
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Your suggestions sounds like a good one but I followed the advice of
the guy that sold me the wood (www.macwoods.com). It worked just fine for two rooms. You method works, too, I'm sure. Thanks! |
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