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[email protected] May 19th 05 04:17 AM

Wood floor with a border
 
I've already bought the wood.

I plan to put a 10 inch border all the way around the room of Brazilian
cherry. Then I plan to "fill" the interior with hickory.

Should I do all the border first? Then fill?

I'm worried about the interior having perfect 90 degree (i.e. square)
corners. If they aren't square I'll get little gaps.

Suggestions?

P.S. Between this project and the pergola project mentioned in a
previous post, I have all my summer Saturdays taken!


G Henslee May 19th 05 04:25 AM

wrote:
I've already bought the wood.

I plan to put a 10 inch border all the way around the room of Brazilian
cherry. Then I plan to "fill" the interior with hickory.

Should I do all the border first? Then fill?

I'm worried about the interior having perfect 90 degree (i.e. square)
corners. If they aren't square I'll get little gaps.

Suggestions?

P.S. Between this project and the pergola project mentioned in a
previous post, I have all my summer Saturdays taken!


I would install the floor first and then use the 'coping' technique for
the base at the 90o's and the out of square corners won't matter..

http://tinyurl.com/8auh7


[email protected] May 19th 05 01:57 PM

I don't understand your answer. The border I'm referrinf to is not the
moulding (aka baseboard), it's actually floor, too.


G Henslee May 19th 05 02:19 PM

wrote:
I don't understand your answer. The border I'm referrinf to is not the
moulding (aka baseboard), it's actually floor, too.


Oops.

Field first, having layed out and 'squared' the room with tape measure
and with chalk lines for reference.

Here are some helpful install tips.
http://www.nofma.org/faq.htm#installationq3
http://www.andersonfloors.com/instca...st.aspx#Layout

[email protected] May 20th 05 02:31 PM

Thanks for the references......

I spoke with the installer at the place I bought the wood and
recommends exactly the opposite! I.e. put the border in first. He says
that, yes, when you reach the far side, the angles may not be exactly
90 degrees but its easier to cut 89 degrees on the miter saw than to
get the "field" centered and true and them put in the border.

He also says, you can make both ways work.

Not sure what I'll do -- I'll have to decide tomorrow.


Charles Spitzer May 20th 05 05:18 PM


wrote in message
oups.com...
Thanks for the references......

I spoke with the installer at the place I bought the wood and
recommends exactly the opposite! I.e. put the border in first. He says
that, yes, when you reach the far side, the angles may not be exactly
90 degrees but its easier to cut 89 degrees on the miter saw than to
get the "field" centered and true and them put in the border.

He also says, you can make both ways work.

Not sure what I'll do -- I'll have to decide tomorrow.


if you do the field first, and make it square, then you can add the border
easily. if the room isn't square, you can usually hide the off-ness under
the shoe molding. at least the non-squareness will be at the edge and
hopefully under something, so you won't see it as much.



miamicuse May 21st 05 03:41 PM

I agree. Nothing is perfectly square. The room itself may be off, having a
border sort of force your hand to decide where to hide the unevenness. Hide
them all under the baseboards. Don't hide half in the baseboards and half
on the other side of the border.

"Charles Spitzer" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
oups.com...
Thanks for the references......

I spoke with the installer at the place I bought the wood and
recommends exactly the opposite! I.e. put the border in first. He says
that, yes, when you reach the far side, the angles may not be exactly
90 degrees but its easier to cut 89 degrees on the miter saw than to
get the "field" centered and true and them put in the border.

He also says, you can make both ways work.

Not sure what I'll do -- I'll have to decide tomorrow.


if you do the field first, and make it square, then you can add the border
easily. if the room isn't square, you can usually hide the off-ness under
the shoe molding. at least the non-squareness will be at the edge and
hopefully under something, so you won't see it as much.





[email protected] May 29th 05 04:18 AM

Your suggestions sounds like a good one but I followed the advice of
the guy that sold me the wood (www.macwoods.com). It worked just fine
for two rooms. You method works, too, I'm sure. Thanks!



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