(Edgar S.) wrote in message . com...
"lbbs" wrote in message ...
I imagine putting some find of a filter at the end of the vent house would
do the trick, and direct the vent into the laundry room. Some one
mentioned that the added humidity in the room might actually make the drying
process take longer (it need dry air). Although in my case might not be a
problem because the room is very large (24x24). Anyone ever tried this,
did it work good, any problems? Thanks(snip)

A friend of mine in the northeast built a greenhouse on the southside
of his house for winter veggies and helping warm the house. He does
the dryer exhaust/nylon stocking thing into it, as well as running
greywater into a metal holding tank until its heat is gone. It keeps
his bill for warming it to a minimum, and wall condensation is not a
problem since he built it with two layers of clear rigid plastic. I
think the moisture ends up condensing to the ground or the plant
leaves.-Jitney

Shaarx wrote:

"Arri London" wrote in message
...
"Dave, Chris & Ben Oinonen Ehren" wrote:

in article , Arri London at
wrote
on 1/6/04 7:05 PM:

lbbs wrote:

I imagine putting some find of a filter at the end of the vent house
would
do the trick, and direct the vent into the laundry room. Some one
mentioned that the added humidity in the room might actually make the
drying
process take longer (it need dry air). Although in my case might
not be a
problem because the room is very large (24x24). Anyone ever tried
this,
did it work good, any problems? Thanks


My (electric) dryer was in my kitchen and in winter I never opened the
window to let it vent. The filter was very fine-meshed and there was
no
dust or lint on any surfaces. The washing was always run through a
separate spinner, so it wasn't all that wet. The extra humidity wasn't
really a problem; only the window ever showed any condensation and
that
disappeared in a few minutes after the dryer finished.

In climates where the winter is cold and dry (like MN & WI) having the
extra
humidity and heat inside is a boon, but you want to be able to switch it
back to venting outside in summer, 'cause then the heat and humidity are
a
drag. Also want to monitor the humidity-get a humidistat. They're
pretty
cheap. You don't want the humidity to get over 50% if you can help it.
That can do damage to your house, as well as encouraging dust mites and
mold.

That wasn't really a problem in London. Outside humidity can easily be
50 percent or more on a regular basis. As for dust mites and moulds,
keeping the house clean really does minimise those problems.
LOL not to mention my flat was in a 260+-year old church. Any wood was
buried within metre-thick walls of stone and later concrete. The floors
were also concrete about 2 foot thick. Mould was never an issue.

How do they run plumbing and wiring and ductwork in such a structure?


LOL With great difficulty. Having been bombed during WW2 helped a lot.
During reconstruction, it was easier in the parts of the church that
were damaged, but the walls were put back to their original thickenss.

Excellant suggestion below hang your laundry in order to save money. The
poster was correct they are tiny fibers that will float through the air and
can cause problems.

Edgar S. wrote in message
om...
"lbbs" wrote in message
...
I imagine putting some find of a filter at the end of the vent house
would
do the trick, and direct the vent into the laundry room. Some one
mentioned that the added humidity in the room might actually make the
drying
process take longer (it need dry air). Although in my case might not
be a
problem because the room is very large (24x24). Anyone ever tried
this,
did it work good, any problems? Thanks

don't do it. Air from dryers is saturated with micro fibers from
clothing. This is NOT good stuff to breathe.

If ur looking to save power, hang laundry to dry.




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On Wed, 7 Jan 2004 15:28:52 -0500 (EST), Alexander Litvin
wrote:

~^Johnny^~ wrote:

I make mine on a frame of 5/8 inch unfinished bolding stock,
mitred, glued, and stapled at the corners. Then 3 mil acetate sheet is
stretched over the frame and stapled down. Finally, foam weather stripping
is attached around the frame's perimeter, to make a tight seal against the
window casing.

How do you fasten it to the window casing? Just screws?


Friction. It fits inside the casing. On windows with flush panels, the foam
stripping could be on the rear-facing surface of the frame, and I suppose it
could be tacked up with brads or staples... but I never had to give it that
much thought, since all my single-pane windows are recessed in the casing a
few centimeters. I have some sliding aluminum windows in the wall facing
between the houses, but they don't have that problem, as they, like many
aluminum windows, are double-glazed.

On 8 Jan 2004 13:14:24 -0500, wrote:

or hang the damp clothes in a
closet with a few light bulbs controlled by a humidistat.

Ah, very good -- but I use a 40 pint room dehumidifier.

In a closed closet, or in a closet with the door only cracked open, the DH
doesn't run very often! But I don't dry =clothes= with it!
--
-john
wide-open at throttle dot info

~~~~~~~~
The time to repair the roof is when the sun is shining
- JFK
~~~~~~~~

~^Johnny^~ wrote:

...hang the damp clothes in a closet with a few light bulbs controlled
by a humidistat.

Ah, very good -- but I use a 40 pint room dehumidifier.

Me too. More expensive. More efficient. Heats the house in wintertime.

Then again, Elana's Irish Whirlpool awz 541 condensing dryer could be
reasonably fast and efficient. She says it has something that looks like
a dehumidifier in it, with no cold water I/O, as in other condensing dryers.

Nick

"rb608" wrote in message ...
"lbbs" wrote in message
...
I imagine putting some find of a filter at the end of the vent house would
do the trick, and direct the vent into the laundry room. Some one
mentioned that the added humidity in the room might actually make the
drying
process take longer (it need dry air). Although in my case might not be
a
problem because the room is very large (24x24). Anyone ever tried
this,
did it work good, any problems? Thanks

I haven't tried it yet, but I keep eyeing a similar redirection. The oil
tank for my home heating is above ground, very near where the dryer vent
exits. On extreme cold days (teens, single digits), water in the tank will
occasionally freeze up and block the fuel feed. I've been toying with the
idea of extending the vent to encase the tank feed. Hmmm.

You should be using kerosene or a mixture of fuel oil and kerosene
for an outside tank to prevent fuel gelling/waxing. We use straight
fuel oil up until the beginning of January and then a mix of the
fuel oil/kero until the end of Feb. Never had a problem that way.

The extra humidity is a breeding ground for molds. Can prove to be a very
unhealthy thing to do.

lbbs wrote in message
...
I imagine putting some find of a filter at the end of the vent house would
do the trick, and direct the vent into the laundry room. Some one
mentioned that the added humidity in the room might actually make the
drying
process take longer (it need dry air). Although in my case might not be
a
problem because the room is very large (24x24). Anyone ever tried
this,
did it work good, any problems? Thanks







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I did this for years--no mold problems, but lots of dust as a result. It is
just about impossible to catch all the dust with a filter (unless it reduces
airflow unacceptably). On balance, I think it is probably not worth the
effort. My dryer was in the basement and the heat didn't make it very far.
Neither did the dust, of course.


"Mogie" wrote in message
...
The extra humidity is a breeding ground for molds. Can prove to be a very
unhealthy thing to do.

lbbs wrote in message
...
I imagine putting some find of a filter at the end of the vent house
would
do the trick, and direct the vent into the laundry room. Some one
mentioned that the added humidity in the room might actually make the
drying
process take longer (it need dry air). Although in my case might not
be
a
problem because the room is very large (24x24). Anyone ever tried
this,
did it work good, any problems? Thanks







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donald girod wrote:

I did this for years--no mold problems, but lots of dust as a result. It is
just about impossible to catch all the dust with a filter (unless it reduces
airflow unacceptably). On balance, I think it is probably not worth the
effort. My dryer was in the basement and the heat didn't make it very far.
Neither did the dust, of course.


The only way I see it being practical is to design some
sort of heat exchanger to use the outgoing hot, humid
air to heat the incoming cool, dry air.

JazzMan
--
************************************************** ********
Please reply to jsavage"at"airmail.net.
Curse those darned bulk e-mailers!
************************************************** ********
"Rats and roaches live by competition under the laws of
supply and demand. It is the privilege of human beings to
live under the laws of justice and mercy." - Wendell Berry
************************************************** ********

The only way I see it being practical is to design some
sort of heat exchanger to use the outgoing hot, humid
air to heat the incoming cool, dry air.

I agree

And Im surprised something like this doesn't exist that
one can buy!

Maybe its our million dollar idea? Yes?

John

According to :
The only way I see it being practical is to design some
sort of heat exchanger to use the outgoing hot, humid
air to heat the incoming cool, dry air.

I agree

And Im surprised something like this doesn't exist that
one can buy!

Maybe its our million dollar idea? Yes?

Naw. Google searches find plenty of the ones that will _really_ work.
Problem being they're not cheap. Ie: I saw a site for a company that
specialized in installing "rotating disk" heat exchangers on institutional
dryers. But those things are pretty pricy - I'd suspect $1K or more
_each_.

Haven't found anybody (yet) making rotating disk heat exchanger units suitable
in size for a consumer grade dryer. The units I saw had 24" disks...

"Normal" heat exchangers (eg: required for highly sealed R2000 homes etc)
aren't suitable because they'd plug up - as it is, they're $250 or more.
"Rotating disk" ones are real neat - self-cleaning.
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

The only way I see it being practical is to design some
sort of heat exchanger to use the outgoing hot, humid
air to heat the incoming cool, dry air.

Might be useful in an airtight house. A 55 gallon drum with a dryer feed at
the top and a removable lid and some cheesecloth under the lid and over 27
3'x4" capped vertical thinwall PVC water pipes with air and water outlets
near the drum bottom might be more efficient for the rest of us.

Nick

Something like that does exist. Check out Home Depot.

wrote in message
...
The only way I see it being practical is to design some
sort of heat exchanger to use the outgoing hot, humid
air to heat the incoming cool, dry air.

I agree

And Im surprised something like this doesn't exist that
one can buy!

Maybe its our million dollar idea? Yes?

John




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"donald girod" wrote in message
...
I did this for years--no mold problems, but lots of dust as a result. It
is
just about impossible to catch all the dust with a filter (unless it
reduces
airflow unacceptably). On balance, I think it is probably not worth the
effort. My dryer was in the basement and the heat didn't make it very
far.
Neither did the dust, of course.

Back in college I used to rubber band a stocking to the dryer exhaust. Mine
was also in the basement. Never saw mold, but I was in college, so I may
not have noticed.
-Jen

wrote in message
...
The only way I see it being practical is to design some
sort of heat exchanger to use the outgoing hot, humid
air to heat the incoming cool, dry air.

I agree

And Im surprised something like this doesn't exist that
one can buy!

Maybe its our million dollar idea? Yes?

John


Not really . . . I put a king-size pillowcase on the end of the dryer hose
and held it on with rubber bands. Filtered out the dust, added much needed
humidity to the dry winter air. Every so often, turn the pillowcase
inside out, throw away the dust, and run through the laundry, and it's ready
to go again . . .
More like a $2 idea . . .
--Tock

wrote in message om...
wrote in message
...
The only way I see it being practical is to design some
sort of heat exchanger to use the outgoing hot, humid
air to heat the incoming cool, dry air.

I agree

And Im surprised something like this doesn't exist that
one can buy!

Maybe its our million dollar idea? Yes?

John


Not really . . . I put a king-size pillowcase on the end of the dryer hose
and held it on with rubber bands. Filtered out the dust, added much needed
humidity to the dry winter air. Every so often, turn the pillowcase
inside out, throw away the dust, and run through the laundry, and it's ready
to go again . . .
More like a $2 idea . . .
--Tock


I really wasn't going to post on this thread because it seemed just
darned silly to me. I'm single and the amount of time I run the dryer
is minimal. This topic may be important for large families doing
laundry every day, but it isn't very important to me. That said, ....

I may be wrong, but I believe the big energy waste with dryers isn't
that you're losing all that heat from the dryer to the outside, it's
that you're pumping inside air, heated inside air, into the dryer to
dry the clothes, then pumping that air outside. And any air you pump
out of the house will be replaced by outside air, and if you live in a
cold climate, that outside air must be heated to inside temperature.
That's the big waste of energy. So when you kept the air inside, you
of course humidified the air, but you also stopped that loss of inside
air. Congratulations, you solved a problem you didn't even know
existed.

Ken

reusable wire tie and a knee high nylon stocking works great! easy and cheap to
replace too.

wrote in message
...
The only way I see it being practical is to design some
sort of heat exchanger to use the outgoing hot, humid
air to heat the incoming cool, dry air.

Might be useful in an airtight house. A 55 gallon drum with a dryer feed at
the top and a removable lid and some cheesecloth under the lid and over 27
3'x4" capped vertical thinwall PVC water pipes with air and water outlets
near the drum bottom might be more efficient for the rest of us.

Nick

"lbbs" wrote
I imagine putting some find of a filter at the end of the vent house would
do the trick, and direct the vent into the laundry room. Some one
mentioned that the added humidity in the room might actually make the drying
process take longer (it need dry air). Although in my case might not be a
problem because the room is very large (24x24). Anyone ever tried this,
did it work good, any problems? Thanks

A simple filter will not take care of the humidity being dumped into
the house, which could lead to a seriously increased risk of mould and
rot.

The correct way to do this is to use a heat exchanger. The warm wet
air from the tumble passes through the heat exchanger to the outside,
losing its heat as it does so. Fresh air from outside passes through
the heat exchanger, picking up the heat as it does so, and comes
pre-warmed into the house. But the two currents of air never mix. It's
quite common to do this (along with colelcting waste heat from
bathroom extractor fans and the like) in whole-house ventilation
systems in the UK (althoug such systems are themselves quite rare). As
many homes in the US have ducted warm air it might be more feasible to
make use of this.
http://www.villavent.co.uk/heat-reco...entilation.htm
http://www.vent-axia.com/awwebstore/.../airminder.asp

Of course, flueing for gas tumble dryers must always comply with local
safety regulations.

Owain