"Clark W. Griswold, Jr." wrote
Ben Sandee wrote:

So, who's telling the truth? The indepdendent dealer has been around
for decades, several generations. My grandparents have a conditioner
(on city water) from them and have had no problems with them, so I am
inclined to trust them. I'd appreciate any suggestions on these
subjects.

Both options sound absurdly expensive. You have an existing setup, so
plumbing
connections should not be an issue. Go to Sears and buy a decent unit
on sale
for $500 and install it yourself...

The concept of replacing the head when it wears out sounds bogus to
me. Chances
are the resin tank will require changing at the same time, so you'd be
paying
more than replacing the entire unit again. A decent quality single
tank system
should last for 15-20 years given your level of hardness and number of
people in
the house. Not worth investing $1000s of dollars.

I think you need to do some research on the life span of the brand
you're suggesting he use on private well water. My experience says it's
about 4-6 years with very expensive service call and parts charges in
between. Not counting the months of aggravation until it is fixed and
eventually replaced. I've replaced many of them, more in the last few
years, in my 15 years as a water treatment dealer. That includes the
other mass marketed brands made by the same manufacturer (NorthStar,
Kenmore, GE, Morton, probably WalMart.com and some low priced Eco). I
have two of them here now.

I'm not sure you know what a new control valve and resin costs. I assume
you don't because if you did, you may have a different opinion than the
idea being bogus; or expensive, especially for DIYers.

I offer (both locally and by e-mail) a renew-it kit for most brands
whether they have non industry standard resin tanks/valves or not. I
have a North Star and Kenmore (Sears) here that are both less than 3
years old and I can put any model of any industry standard valve (Fleck,
Autotrol, Erie etc.) on them. That includes the other non-industry
standard brands I mentioned above.

Depending on the softener, the kit can include the choice of control
valve and type of by-pass valve, choice of distributor tube, a safety
brine system, brine well w/cap, choice of resin, gravel underbed, choice
of salt tank and a sch 80 PVC valve to tank adapter. The delivered kit
costs only a 1/3rd to 2/3rds of your sale price of $500.

So tell me, what goes wrong with a fiberglass mineral tank and
polyethylene salt tank? BTW, his Culligan softener and filter has/had
rubber lined, neoprene I think, steel tanks.

Many of the control valves independents sell can be rebuilt and will
last another 5-15 years. I've rebuilt Fleck built valves on Culligan and
no name equipment, both softeners and heavy mineral filters, that had
lasted 25 years without service. As far as I know they are still in
service. Many of the best known national brands have used or currently
use Fleck valves, and all off them are easily rebuilt for less than $150
and that would include a new motor in most cases. How could anyone go
wrong doing that? Especially with new factory warranties on controls
running 5 years and on tanks 10 years?

Gary
Quality Water Associates