Last summer I replaced a cap on this '88 Trane unit when it stopped
running. It was actually the 2nd time I'd replaced that cap. Once the
cap was replaced it ran fine. Cooled the house off quick, not huge
impact on the power bill given rate hikes over the years. Ran it a few
times for heat briefly during the Winter, didn't notice any problems.
Just now when I tried to fire it up on A/C again, no cooling. So,
having gone through this drill twice before I immediately went to look
at the cap. It's not bulging like the previous 2 were before but one
of the spade connectors has severed from the wire and there's obvious
arcing residue on the contacts and melting of the plastic fitting
around the contacts the severed spade was attached to. On that side
the contacts are also very rusted while the contacts on the other side
are still shiny. I can also feel oil on the outside of the cap.

Not a big trick to get another cap and solder a spade connector back
onto the wire, but I wonder what caused the arcing? The A/C ran like a
champ when it was running last summer after the cap was replaced and I
visually checked it a time or two over the next couple of months to
see if I could see any issues, didn't see anything that caught my
attention - but this makes 3 times in a couple of years I've had
issues with that cap, albeit not the same identical issue at least
from an eyeball standpoint.

I've had the cap mounted sideways, simply because the strap on the
unit for the factory cap is oriented that way. Should it make any
difference which direction the cap is oriented?

Thanks for all assistance and wisdom.

muzician21 wrote:
Last summer I replaced a cap on this '88 Trane unit when it stopped
running. It was actually the 2nd time I'd replaced that cap. Once the
cap was replaced it ran fine. Cooled the house off quick, not huge
impact on the power bill given rate hikes over the years. Ran it a few
times for heat briefly during the Winter, didn't notice any problems.
Just now when I tried to fire it up on A/C again, no cooling. So,
having gone through this drill twice before I immediately went to look
at the cap. It's not bulging like the previous 2 were before but one
of the spade connectors has severed from the wire and there's obvious
arcing residue on the contacts and melting of the plastic fitting
around the contacts the severed spade was attached to. On that side
the contacts are also very rusted while the contacts on the other side
are still shiny. I can also feel oil on the outside of the cap.

Not a big trick to get another cap and solder a spade connector back
onto the wire, but I wonder what caused the arcing? The A/C ran like a
champ when it was running last summer after the cap was replaced and I
visually checked it a time or two over the next couple of months to
see if I could see any issues, didn't see anything that caught my
attention - but this makes 3 times in a couple of years I've had
issues with that cap, albeit not the same identical issue at least
from an eyeball standpoint.

I've had the cap mounted sideways, simply because the strap on the
unit for the factory cap is oriented that way. Should it make any
difference which direction the cap is oriented?

Thanks for all assistance and wisdom.
Hi,
Maybe the spade clip was not quite tight or the cap. is El cheapo
Chinese stuff? Until you get another one with higher W.V rating
(prefered),
can't tell what happened. I don't like the sign of oil leak(?)
Good luck.

On Thu, 23 Feb 2012 16:00:41 -0800 (PST), muzician21
wrote:

Last summer I replaced a cap on this '88 Trane unit when it stopped
running. It was actually the 2nd time I'd replaced that cap. Once the
cap was replaced it ran fine. Cooled the house off quick, not huge
impact on the power bill given rate hikes over the years. Ran it a few
times for heat briefly during the Winter, didn't notice any problems.
Just now when I tried to fire it up on A/C again, no cooling. So,
having gone through this drill twice before I immediately went to look
at the cap. It's not bulging like the previous 2 were before but one
of the spade connectors has severed from the wire and there's obvious
arcing residue on the contacts and melting of the plastic fitting
around the contacts the severed spade was attached to. On that side
the contacts are also very rusted while the contacts on the other side
are still shiny. I can also feel oil on the outside of the cap.

Not a big trick to get another cap and solder a spade connector back
onto the wire, but I wonder what caused the arcing? The A/C ran like a
champ when it was running last summer after the cap was replaced and I
visually checked it a time or two over the next couple of months to
see if I could see any issues, didn't see anything that caught my
attention - but this makes 3 times in a couple of years I've had
issues with that cap, albeit not the same identical issue at least
from an eyeball standpoint.

I've had the cap mounted sideways, simply because the strap on the
unit for the factory cap is oriented that way. Should it make any
difference which direction the cap is oriented?

Thanks for all assistance and wisdom.
It COULD have been a connection problem that has caused the previous
caps to fail, and now the connection has completely failed. I'd put on
a new connector and a new cap and apply dialectric greese to the
connections to seal them against corrosion.

On 2/23/2012 6:00 PM, muzician21 wrote:
Last summer I replaced a cap on this '88 Trane unit when it stopped
running. It was actually the 2nd time I'd replaced that cap. Once the
cap was replaced it ran fine. Cooled the house off quick, not huge
impact on the power bill given rate hikes over the years. Ran it a few
times for heat briefly during the Winter, didn't notice any problems.
Just now when I tried to fire it up on A/C again, no cooling. So,
having gone through this drill twice before I immediately went to look
at the cap. It's not bulging like the previous 2 were before but one
of the spade connectors has severed from the wire and there's obvious
arcing residue on the contacts and melting of the plastic fitting
around the contacts the severed spade was attached to. On that side
the contacts are also very rusted while the contacts on the other side
are still shiny. I can also feel oil on the outside of the cap.

Not a big trick to get another cap and solder a spade connector back
onto the wire, but I wonder what caused the arcing? The A/C ran like a
champ when it was running last summer after the cap was replaced and I
visually checked it a time or two over the next couple of months to
see if I could see any issues, didn't see anything that caught my
attention - but this makes 3 times in a couple of years I've had
issues with that cap, albeit not the same identical issue at least
from an eyeball standpoint.

I've had the cap mounted sideways, simply because the strap on the
unit for the factory cap is oriented that way. Should it make any
difference which direction the cap is oriented?

Thanks for all assistance and wisdom.

I just repaired one today for a long time customer. The original female
1/4" Faston connector slipped off the contactor because it was sprung, I
simply used my needle nosed pliers to crimp it down a bit so it slipped
tightly back on the male Faston connector on the contactor. Every Summer
I wind up replacing a ton of Chinese capacitors in HVAC systems. I will
always replace a 370 volt rated cap with one rated at 440 volts AC.

TDD

The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 2/23/2012 6:00 PM, muzician21 wrote:
Last summer I replaced a cap on this '88 Trane unit when it stopped
running. It was actually the 2nd time I'd replaced that cap. Once the
cap was replaced it ran fine. Cooled the house off quick, not huge
impact on the power bill given rate hikes over the years. Ran it a few
times for heat briefly during the Winter, didn't notice any problems.
Just now when I tried to fire it up on A/C again, no cooling. So,
having gone through this drill twice before I immediately went to look
at the cap. It's not bulging like the previous 2 were before but one
of the spade connectors has severed from the wire and there's obvious
arcing residue on the contacts and melting of the plastic fitting
around the contacts the severed spade was attached to. On that side
the contacts are also very rusted while the contacts on the other side
are still shiny. I can also feel oil on the outside of the cap.

Not a big trick to get another cap and solder a spade connector back
onto the wire, but I wonder what caused the arcing? The A/C ran like a
champ when it was running last summer after the cap was replaced and I
visually checked it a time or two over the next couple of months to
see if I could see any issues, didn't see anything that caught my
attention - but this makes 3 times in a couple of years I've had
issues with that cap, albeit not the same identical issue at least
from an eyeball standpoint.

I've had the cap mounted sideways, simply because the strap on the
unit for the factory cap is oriented that way. Should it make any
difference which direction the cap is oriented?

Thanks for all assistance and wisdom.

I just repaired one today for a long time customer. The original female
1/4" Faston connector slipped off the contactor because it was sprung, I
simply used my needle nosed pliers to crimp it down a bit so it slipped
tightly back on the male Faston connector on the contactor. Every Summer
I wind up replacing a ton of Chinese capacitors in HVAC systems. I will
always replace a 370 volt rated cap with one rated at 440 volts AC.

TDD
Hi,
Same happened to my garage door travel limit switch on the screw drive
track. I think connector(female) popped and sprung(due to vibration?)
One night I came home and push the remote button and door tried to go
down instead of going up. I disengaged the opener and had a quick look,
found what happened. I always tighten them with needle nose pliers or
hard to reach spot, I just solder the connector.

On Feb 24, 12:00*am, muzician21 wrote:
Last summer I replaced a cap on this '88 Trane unit when it stopped
running. It was actually the 2nd time I'd replaced that cap. Once the
cap was replaced it ran fine. Cooled the house off quick, not huge
impact on the power bill given rate hikes over the years. Ran it a few
times for heat briefly during the Winter, didn't notice any problems.
Just now when I tried to fire it up on A/C again, no cooling. So,
having gone through this drill twice before I immediately went to look
at the cap. It's not bulging like the previous 2 were before but one
of the spade connectors has severed from the wire and there's obvious
arcing residue on the contacts and melting of the plastic fitting
around the contacts the severed spade was attached to. On that side
the contacts are also very rusted while the contacts on the other side
are still shiny. I can also feel oil on the outside of the cap.

Not a big trick to get another cap and solder a spade connector back
onto the wire, but I wonder what caused the arcing? The A/C ran like a
champ when it was running last summer after the cap was replaced and I
visually checked it a time or two over the next couple of months to
see if I could see any issues, didn't see anything that caught my
attention - but this makes 3 times in a couple of years I've had
issues with that cap, albeit not the same identical issue at least
from an eyeball standpoint.

I've had the cap mounted sideways, simply because the strap on the
unit for the factory cap is oriented that way. Should it make any
difference which direction the cap is oriented?

Thanks for all assistance and wisdom.

Loose/corroded connection. Replace push on connector. Once they have
been hot, they are buggered.

Or dampness can cause a short to adjacent terminal/ground. Spray WD40
or similar to displace moisture.

On 2/23/2012 11:58 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:


The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 2/23/2012 6:00 PM, muzician21 wrote:
Last summer I replaced a cap on this '88 Trane unit when it stopped
running. It was actually the 2nd time I'd replaced that cap. Once the
cap was replaced it ran fine. Cooled the house off quick, not huge
impact on the power bill given rate hikes over the years. Ran it a few
times for heat briefly during the Winter, didn't notice any problems.
Just now when I tried to fire it up on A/C again, no cooling. So,
having gone through this drill twice before I immediately went to look
at the cap. It's not bulging like the previous 2 were before but one
of the spade connectors has severed from the wire and there's obvious
arcing residue on the contacts and melting of the plastic fitting
around the contacts the severed spade was attached to. On that side
the contacts are also very rusted while the contacts on the other side
are still shiny. I can also feel oil on the outside of the cap.

Not a big trick to get another cap and solder a spade connector back
onto the wire, but I wonder what caused the arcing? The A/C ran like a
champ when it was running last summer after the cap was replaced and I
visually checked it a time or two over the next couple of months to
see if I could see any issues, didn't see anything that caught my
attention - but this makes 3 times in a couple of years I've had
issues with that cap, albeit not the same identical issue at least
from an eyeball standpoint.

I've had the cap mounted sideways, simply because the strap on the
unit for the factory cap is oriented that way. Should it make any
difference which direction the cap is oriented?

Thanks for all assistance and wisdom.

I just repaired one today for a long time customer. The original female
1/4" Faston connector slipped off the contactor because it was sprung, I
simply used my needle nosed pliers to crimp it down a bit so it slipped
tightly back on the male Faston connector on the contactor. Every Summer
I wind up replacing a ton of Chinese capacitors in HVAC systems. I will
always replace a 370 volt rated cap with one rated at 440 volts AC.

TDD
Hi,
Same happened to my garage door travel limit switch on the screw drive
track. I think connector(female) popped and sprung(due to vibration?)
One night I came home and push the remote button and door tried to go
down instead of going up. I disengaged the opener and had a quick look,
found what happened. I always tighten them with needle nose pliers or
hard to reach spot, I just solder the connector.

Having the correct crimp tool is a necessity, I have a half dozen
different types including one that crimps from four directions. ^_^

TDD

Should not. Caps are not position sensetive.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"muzician21" wrote in message
...

I've had the cap mounted sideways, simply because the strap on the
unit for the factory cap is oriented that way. Should it make any
difference which direction the cap is oriented?

Thanks for all assistance and wisdom.

"muzician21" wrote in message
...
Last summer I replaced a cap on this '88 Trane unit when it stopped
running. It was actually the 2nd time I'd replaced that cap. Once the
cap was replaced it ran fine. Cooled the house off quick, not huge
impact on the power bill given rate hikes over the years. Ran it a few
times for heat briefly during the Winter, didn't notice any problems.
Just now when I tried to fire it up on A/C again, no cooling. So,
having gone through this drill twice before I immediately went to look
at the cap. It's not bulging like the previous 2 were before but one
of the spade connectors has severed from the wire and there's obvious
arcing residue on the contacts and melting of the plastic fitting
around the contacts the severed spade was attached to. On that side
the contacts are also very rusted while the contacts on the other side
are still shiny. I can also feel oil on the outside of the cap.

Not a big trick to get another cap and solder a spade connector back
onto the wire, but I wonder what caused the arcing? The A/C ran like a
champ when it was running last summer after the cap was replaced and I
visually checked it a time or two over the next couple of months to
see if I could see any issues, didn't see anything that caught my
attention - but this makes 3 times in a couple of years I've had
issues with that cap, albeit not the same identical issue at least
from an eyeball standpoint.

I've had the cap mounted sideways, simply because the strap on the
unit for the factory cap is oriented that way. Should it make any
difference which direction the cap is oriented?

Thanks for all assistance and wisdom.

Its 24 years old.... did you expect it to last forever?? Your heating and
cooling system runs 24/7..... You're in your car for *maybe* 1 hour a
day.... are you driving a 24 year old car??

The R22 refrigerant that is in that system is rapidly going the way of the
Dodo bird.... If you have to have it gassed up for the summer, get ready to
pay 3 - 4 times what you paid last year.

On 2/24/2012 7:20 AM, Steve wrote:
wrote in message
...
Last summer I replaced a cap on this '88 Trane unit when it stopped
running. It was actually the 2nd time I'd replaced that cap. Once the
cap was replaced it ran fine. Cooled the house off quick, not huge
impact on the power bill given rate hikes over the years. Ran it a few
times for heat briefly during the Winter, didn't notice any problems.
Just now when I tried to fire it up on A/C again, no cooling. So,
having gone through this drill twice before I immediately went to look
at the cap. It's not bulging like the previous 2 were before but one
of the spade connectors has severed from the wire and there's obvious
arcing residue on the contacts and melting of the plastic fitting
around the contacts the severed spade was attached to. On that side
the contacts are also very rusted while the contacts on the other side
are still shiny. I can also feel oil on the outside of the cap.

Not a big trick to get another cap and solder a spade connector back
onto the wire, but I wonder what caused the arcing? The A/C ran like a
champ when it was running last summer after the cap was replaced and I
visually checked it a time or two over the next couple of months to
see if I could see any issues, didn't see anything that caught my
attention - but this makes 3 times in a couple of years I've had
issues with that cap, albeit not the same identical issue at least
from an eyeball standpoint.

I've had the cap mounted sideways, simply because the strap on the
unit for the factory cap is oriented that way. Should it make any
difference which direction the cap is oriented?

Thanks for all assistance and wisdom.

Its 24 years old.... did you expect it to last forever?? Your heating and
cooling system runs 24/7..... You're in your car for *maybe* 1 hour a
day.... are you driving a 24 year old car??

The R22 refrigerant that is in that system is rapidly going the way of the
Dodo bird.... If you have to have it gassed up for the summer, get ready to
pay 3 - 4 times what you paid last year.


I wonder how many power spikes have hit that unit causing cumulative
damage to the electrical components over 24 years? o_O

TDD

On Feb 23, 6:00*pm, muzician21 wrote:
Last summer I replaced a cap on this '88 Trane unit when it stopped
running. It was actually the 2nd time I'd replaced that cap. Once the
cap was replaced it ran fine. Cooled the house off quick, not huge
impact on the power bill given rate hikes over the years. Ran it a few
times for heat briefly during the Winter, didn't notice any problems.
Just now when I tried to fire it up on A/C again, no cooling. So,
having gone through this drill twice before I immediately went to look
at the cap. It's not bulging like the previous 2 were before but one
of the spade connectors has severed from the wire and there's obvious
arcing residue on the contacts and melting of the plastic fitting
around the contacts the severed spade was attached to. On that side
the contacts are also very rusted while the contacts on the other side
are still shiny. I can also feel oil on the outside of the cap.

Not a big trick to get another cap and solder a spade connector back
onto the wire, but I wonder what caused the arcing? The A/C ran like a
champ when it was running last summer after the cap was replaced and I
visually checked it a time or two over the next couple of months to
see if I could see any issues, didn't see anything that caught my
attention - but this makes 3 times in a couple of years I've had
issues with that cap, albeit not the same identical issue at least
from an eyeball standpoint.

I've had the cap mounted sideways, simply because the strap on the
unit for the factory cap is oriented that way. Should it make any
difference which direction the cap is oriented?

Thanks for all assistance and wisdom.

Moisture or rain isnt getting on the cap is it ? Could be large
Bugs getting on the spade connections . Ive had that happen. Make
sure the electrical compartment of the unit is sealed up tight to
prevent Bugs and moisture getting in.

On Fri, 24 Feb 2012 07:20:14 -0600, "Steve"
wrote:


"muzician21" wrote in message
...
Last summer I replaced a cap on this '88 Trane unit when it stopped
running. It was actually the 2nd time I'd replaced that cap. Once the
cap was replaced it ran fine. Cooled the house off quick, not huge
impact on the power bill given rate hikes over the years. Ran it a few
times for heat briefly during the Winter, didn't notice any problems.
Just now when I tried to fire it up on A/C again, no cooling. So,
having gone through this drill twice before I immediately went to look
at the cap. It's not bulging like the previous 2 were before but one
of the spade connectors has severed from the wire and there's obvious
arcing residue on the contacts and melting of the plastic fitting
around the contacts the severed spade was attached to. On that side
the contacts are also very rusted while the contacts on the other side
are still shiny. I can also feel oil on the outside of the cap.

Not a big trick to get another cap and solder a spade connector back
onto the wire, but I wonder what caused the arcing? The A/C ran like a
champ when it was running last summer after the cap was replaced and I
visually checked it a time or two over the next couple of months to
see if I could see any issues, didn't see anything that caught my
attention - but this makes 3 times in a couple of years I've had
issues with that cap, albeit not the same identical issue at least
from an eyeball standpoint.

I've had the cap mounted sideways, simply because the strap on the
unit for the factory cap is oriented that way. Should it make any
difference which direction the cap is oriented?

Thanks for all assistance and wisdom.

Its 24 years old.... did you expect it to last forever??

My AC is 38 years old and still running - and original caps
Your heating and
cooling system runs 24/7..... You're in your car for *maybe* 1 hour a
day.... are you driving a 24 year old car??
Not quite, but it's getting pretty close!!!

The R22 refrigerant that is in that system is rapidly going the way of the
Dodo bird.... If you have to have it gassed up for the summer, get ready to
pay 3 - 4 times what you paid last year.

38 years old and has only needed 1/2 lb of Freon added - and that was
about 18 years ago.

wrote in message ...

My AC is 38 years old and still running - and original caps


I replaced a 25-year-old unit, not because it broke but because it was breaking me.
Old unit drew 19 amps and the new one only draws 9. Basically cut my cooling bill in half.

On Fri, 24 Feb 2012 14:27:44 -0500, "Dave West"
wrote:


wrote in message ...

My AC is 38 years old and still running - and original caps


I replaced a 25-year-old unit, not because it broke but because it was breaking me.
Old unit drew 19 amps and the new one only draws 9. Basically cut my cooling bill in half.
I've got a recent condenser/compressor unit standing by to replace my
old one this spring for the same reason - and the "new parts" were
free.

On Feb 24, 2:11*am, harry wrote:
On Feb 24, 12:00*am, muzician21 wrote:





Last summer I replaced a cap on this '88 Trane unit when it stopped
running. It was actually the 2nd time I'd replaced that cap. Once the
cap was replaced it ran fine. Cooled the house off quick, not huge
impact on the power bill given rate hikes over the years. Ran it a few
times for heat briefly during the Winter, didn't notice any problems.
Just now when I tried to fire it up on A/C again, no cooling. So,
having gone through this drill twice before I immediately went to look
at the cap. It's not bulging like the previous 2 were before but one
of the spade connectors has severed from the wire and there's obvious
arcing residue on the contacts and melting of the plastic fitting
around the contacts the severed spade was attached to. On that side
the contacts are also very rusted while the contacts on the other side
are still shiny. I can also feel oil on the outside of the cap.

Not a big trick to get another cap and solder a spade connector back
onto the wire, but I wonder what caused the arcing? The A/C ran like a
champ when it was running last summer after the cap was replaced and I
visually checked it a time or two over the next couple of months to
see if I could see any issues, didn't see anything that caught my
attention - but this makes 3 times in a couple of years I've had
issues with that cap, albeit not the same identical issue at least
from an eyeball standpoint.

I've had the cap mounted sideways, simply because the strap on the
unit for the factory cap is oriented that way. Should it make any
difference which direction the cap is oriented?

Thanks for all assistance and wisdom.

Loose/corroded connection. *Replace push on connector. Once they have
been hot, they are buggered.

Or dampness can cause a short to adjacent terminal/ground. Spray WD40
or similar to displace moisture.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

solder wires directly to cap by using a pig tail

i repair machines for a living that draw high current, if you replace
a switch its best to replace the terminals too

The rest of the world uses push on terminals for caps. Must work for the
rest of the world.

A cap that's 35 micro farad isn't going to handle a lot of current.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"bob haller" wrote in message
...

solder wires directly to cap by using a pig tail

i repair machines for a living that draw high current, if you replace
a switch its best to replace the terminals too

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
The rest of the world uses push on terminals for caps. Must work for the
rest of the world.

A cap that's 35 micro farad isn't going to handle a lot of current.

Your ignorance is showing....

On Feb 24, 1:11*pm, wrote:
On Fri, 24 Feb 2012 07:20:14 -0600, "Steve"
wrote:







"muzician21" wrote in message
....
Last summer I replaced a cap on this '88 Trane unit when it stopped
running. It was actually the 2nd time I'd replaced that cap. Once the
cap was replaced it ran fine. Cooled the house off quick, not huge
impact on the power bill given rate hikes over the years. Ran it a few
times for heat briefly during the Winter, didn't notice any problems.
Just now when I tried to fire it up on A/C again, no cooling. So,
having gone through this drill twice before I immediately went to look
at the cap. It's not bulging like the previous 2 were before but one
of the spade connectors has severed from the wire and there's obvious
arcing residue on the contacts and melting of the plastic fitting
around the contacts the severed spade was attached to. On that side
the contacts are also very rusted while the contacts on the other side
are still shiny. I can also feel oil on the outside of the cap.

Not a big trick to get another cap and solder a spade connector back
onto the wire, but I wonder what caused the arcing? The A/C ran like a
champ when it was running last summer after the cap was replaced and I
visually checked it a time or two over the next couple of months to
see if I could see any issues, didn't see anything that caught my
attention - but this makes 3 times in a couple of years I've had
issues with that cap, albeit not the same identical issue at least
from an eyeball standpoint.

I've had the cap mounted sideways, simply because the strap on the
unit for the factory cap is oriented that way. Should it make any
difference which direction the cap is oriented?

Thanks for all assistance and wisdom.

Its 24 years old.... did you expect it to last forever??

My AC is 38 years old and still running - and original caps Your heating and
cooling system runs 24/7..... You're in your car for *maybe* 1 hour a
day.... are you driving a 24 year old car??

Not quite, but it's getting pretty close!!!

The R22 refrigerant that is in that system is rapidly going the way of the
Dodo bird.... If you have to have it gassed up for the summer, get ready to
pay 3 - 4 times what you paid last year.

38 years old and has only needed 1/2 lb of Freon added - and that was
about 18 years ago.

That is virtually unheard of, so, good for you and your a/c unit.
Curious...what brand is it ? Around 1990, I came across an very old
Westinghouse condensing unit with a pancake compressor in it which
appeared to be 1950's and it was still cooling alright ; they wanted
me to replace it to avoid a sudden breakdown and to save on
electricity . It was a 3 ton capacity but the physical dimensions
were approx. 5' wide x 5' long x 5.5' high . It was so heavy i
had to cut it up into 3 pieces .

On 2/25/2012 8:55 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
The rest of the world uses push on terminals for caps. Must work for the
rest of the world.

A cap that's 35 micro farad isn't going to handle a lot of current.


Compared to what? o_O

TDD

Stormin Mormon wrote:
The rest of the world uses push on terminals for caps. Must work for the
rest of the world.

A cap that's 35 micro farad isn't going to handle a lot of current.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
Hi,
So what is the Z of that capacitor on 60Hz circuit?

.

"bob wrote in message
...

solder wires directly to cap by using a pig tail

i repair machines for a living that draw high current, if you replace
a switch its best to replace the terminals too

On 2/25/2012 11:31 AM, wrote:
On Feb 24, 1:11 pm, wrote:
On Fri, 24 Feb 2012 07:20:14 -0600,
wrote:







wrote in message
...
Last summer I replaced a cap on this '88 Trane unit when it stopped
running. It was actually the 2nd time I'd replaced that cap. Once the
cap was replaced it ran fine. Cooled the house off quick, not huge
impact on the power bill given rate hikes over the years. Ran it a few
times for heat briefly during the Winter, didn't notice any problems.
Just now when I tried to fire it up on A/C again, no cooling. So,
having gone through this drill twice before I immediately went to look
at the cap. It's not bulging like the previous 2 were before but one
of the spade connectors has severed from the wire and there's obvious
arcing residue on the contacts and melting of the plastic fitting
around the contacts the severed spade was attached to. On that side
the contacts are also very rusted while the contacts on the other side
are still shiny. I can also feel oil on the outside of the cap.

Not a big trick to get another cap and solder a spade connector back
onto the wire, but I wonder what caused the arcing? The A/C ran like a
champ when it was running last summer after the cap was replaced and I
visually checked it a time or two over the next couple of months to
see if I could see any issues, didn't see anything that caught my
attention - but this makes 3 times in a couple of years I've had
issues with that cap, albeit not the same identical issue at least
from an eyeball standpoint.

I've had the cap mounted sideways, simply because the strap on the
unit for the factory cap is oriented that way. Should it make any
difference which direction the cap is oriented?

Thanks for all assistance and wisdom.

Its 24 years old.... did you expect it to last forever??

My AC is 38 years old and still running - and original caps Your heating and
cooling system runs 24/7..... You're in your car for *maybe* 1 hour a
day.... are you driving a 24 year old car??

Not quite, but it's getting pretty close!!!

The R22 refrigerant that is in that system is rapidly going the way of the
Dodo bird.... If you have to have it gassed up for the summer, get ready to
pay 3 - 4 times what you paid last year.

38 years old and has only needed 1/2 lb of Freon added - and that was
about 18 years ago.

That is virtually unheard of, so, good for you and your a/c unit.
Curious...what brand is it ? Around 1990, I came across an very old
Westinghouse condensing unit with a pancake compressor in it which
appeared to be 1950's and it was still cooling alright ; they wanted
me to replace it to avoid a sudden breakdown and to save on
electricity . It was a 3 ton capacity but the physical dimensions
were approx. 5' wide x 5' long x 5.5' high . It was so heavy i
had to cut it up into 3 pieces .

Isn't is amazing how old very well made equipment keeps on working year
after year? Several years ago, I repaired an old Carrier AC condenser a
fellow bought back in the 70's. It was a high end unit with stainless
steel fasteners and no rust on it anywhere. It had a factory installed
sight glass, high and low pressure cutouts, anti short cycle timer and
a two speed condenser fan. The only thing wrong with it was the fan quit
working. Another tech told him he needed a new unit and wanted to
install a cheap builders/contractor grade replacement condensing unit.
I replaced the fan motor with a (not cheap) two speed motor and the old
Carrier with the insulation blanket around the compressor hardly made a
sound when the fan was running at low speed at night when the ambient
temperature was low enough. The darn thing should run another 20 years
without a problem. Yes, I know the new stuff is more efficient but the
old guy didn't have thousands of dollars to shell out.

TDD

On Sat, 25 Feb 2012 19:03:38 -0600, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 2/25/2012 11:31 AM, wrote:
On Feb 24, 1:11 pm, wrote:
On Fri, 24 Feb 2012 07:20:14 -0600,
wrote:







wrote in message
...
Last summer I replaced a cap on this '88 Trane unit when it stopped
running. It was actually the 2nd time I'd replaced that cap. Once the
cap was replaced it ran fine. Cooled the house off quick, not huge
impact on the power bill given rate hikes over the years. Ran it a few
times for heat briefly during the Winter, didn't notice any problems.
Just now when I tried to fire it up on A/C again, no cooling. So,
having gone through this drill twice before I immediately went to look
at the cap. It's not bulging like the previous 2 were before but one
of the spade connectors has severed from the wire and there's obvious
arcing residue on the contacts and melting of the plastic fitting
around the contacts the severed spade was attached to. On that side
the contacts are also very rusted while the contacts on the other side
are still shiny. I can also feel oil on the outside of the cap.

Not a big trick to get another cap and solder a spade connector back
onto the wire, but I wonder what caused the arcing? The A/C ran like a
champ when it was running last summer after the cap was replaced and I
visually checked it a time or two over the next couple of months to
see if I could see any issues, didn't see anything that caught my
attention - but this makes 3 times in a couple of years I've had
issues with that cap, albeit not the same identical issue at least
from an eyeball standpoint.

I've had the cap mounted sideways, simply because the strap on the
unit for the factory cap is oriented that way. Should it make any
difference which direction the cap is oriented?

Thanks for all assistance and wisdom.

Its 24 years old.... did you expect it to last forever??

My AC is 38 years old and still running - and original caps Your heating and
cooling system runs 24/7..... You're in your car for *maybe* 1 hour a
day.... are you driving a 24 year old car??

Not quite, but it's getting pretty close!!!

The R22 refrigerant that is in that system is rapidly going the way of the
Dodo bird.... If you have to have it gassed up for the summer, get ready to
pay 3 - 4 times what you paid last year.

38 years old and has only needed 1/2 lb of Freon added - and that was
about 18 years ago.

That is virtually unheard of, so, good for you and your a/c unit.
Curious...what brand is it ? Around 1990, I came across an very old
Westinghouse condensing unit with a pancake compressor in it which
appeared to be 1950's and it was still cooling alright ; they wanted
me to replace it to avoid a sudden breakdown and to save on
electricity . It was a 3 ton capacity but the physical dimensions
were approx. 5' wide x 5' long x 5.5' high . It was so heavy i
had to cut it up into 3 pieces .
Mine is an old Canadian Westinghouse unit. from 1974. Other than
having the gas checked about 18 years ago and having half a pound
added, the only problem we've had was a bad thermostat connection
(which was the real problem when I had the gas checked).

On 2/25/2012 7:42 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 25 Feb 2012 19:03:38 -0600, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 2/25/2012 11:31 AM, wrote:
On Feb 24, 1:11 pm, wrote:
On Fri, 24 Feb 2012 07:20:14 -0600,
wrote:







wrote in message
...
Last summer I replaced a cap on this '88 Trane unit when it stopped
running. It was actually the 2nd time I'd replaced that cap. Once the
cap was replaced it ran fine. Cooled the house off quick, not huge
impact on the power bill given rate hikes over the years. Ran it a few
times for heat briefly during the Winter, didn't notice any problems.
Just now when I tried to fire it up on A/C again, no cooling. So,
having gone through this drill twice before I immediately went to look
at the cap. It's not bulging like the previous 2 were before but one
of the spade connectors has severed from the wire and there's obvious
arcing residue on the contacts and melting of the plastic fitting
around the contacts the severed spade was attached to. On that side
the contacts are also very rusted while the contacts on the other side
are still shiny. I can also feel oil on the outside of the cap.

Not a big trick to get another cap and solder a spade connector back
onto the wire, but I wonder what caused the arcing? The A/C ran like a
champ when it was running last summer after the cap was replaced and I
visually checked it a time or two over the next couple of months to
see if I could see any issues, didn't see anything that caught my
attention - but this makes 3 times in a couple of years I've had
issues with that cap, albeit not the same identical issue at least
from an eyeball standpoint.

I've had the cap mounted sideways, simply because the strap on the
unit for the factory cap is oriented that way. Should it make any
difference which direction the cap is oriented?

Thanks for all assistance and wisdom.

Its 24 years old.... did you expect it to last forever??

My AC is 38 years old and still running - and original caps Your heating and
cooling system runs 24/7..... You're in your car for *maybe* 1 hour a
day.... are you driving a 24 year old car??

Not quite, but it's getting pretty close!!!

The R22 refrigerant that is in that system is rapidly going the way of the
Dodo bird.... If you have to have it gassed up for the summer, get ready to
pay 3 - 4 times what you paid last year.

38 years old and has only needed 1/2 lb of Freon added - and that was
about 18 years ago.

That is virtually unheard of, so, good for you and your a/c unit.
Curious...what brand is it ? Around 1990, I came across an very old
Westinghouse condensing unit with a pancake compressor in it which
appeared to be 1950's and it was still cooling alright ; they wanted
me to replace it to avoid a sudden breakdown and to save on
electricity . It was a 3 ton capacity but the physical dimensions
were approx. 5' wide x 5' long x 5.5' high . It was so heavy i
had to cut it up into 3 pieces .
Mine is an old Canadian Westinghouse unit. from 1974. Other than
having the gas checked about 18 years ago and having half a pound
added, the only problem we've had was a bad thermostat connection
(which was the real problem when I had the gas checked).

You're responding to the wrong poster but that's cool(no pun). ^_^

TDD

So, Mr. Knows the Answer. How many amps flow throuch such a cap?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Steve" wrote in message
...

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
The rest of the world uses push on terminals for caps. Must work for the
rest of the world.

A cap that's 35 micro farad isn't going to handle a lot of current.

Your ignorance is showing....

That's a pretty big compressor. Back in 90, were scrolls available? Or maybe
rotary? Or did you have to put in a newer piston unit?

I bet the energy bill went down.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

" wrote in message
...

Around 1990, I came across an very old
Westinghouse condensing unit with a pancake compressor in it which
appeared to be 1950's and it was still cooling alright ; they wanted
me to replace it to avoid a sudden breakdown and to save on
electricity . It was a 3 ton capacity but the physical dimensions
were approx. 5' wide x 5' long x 5.5' high . It was so heavy i
had to cut it up into 3 pieces .

Compared to the compressor being served?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"The Daring Dufas" wrote in message
...

A cap that's 35 micro farad isn't going to handle a lot of current.


Compared to what? o_O

TDD

There's a difference between selfish tech versus a customer service oriented
tech. You are the finer of the two. The quality shows.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"The Daring Dufas" wrote in message
...


a two speed condenser fan. The only thing wrong with it was the fan quit
working. Another tech told him he needed a new unit and wanted to
install a cheap builders/contractor grade replacement condensing unit.
I replaced the fan motor with a (not cheap) two speed motor and the old
Carrier with the insulation blanket around the compressor hardly made a
sound when the fan was running at low speed at night when the ambient
temperature was low enough. The darn thing should run another 20 years
without a problem. Yes, I know the new stuff is more efficient but the
old guy didn't have thousands of dollars to shell out.

TDD

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
.. .
So, Mr. Knows the Answer. How many amps flow throuch such a cap?


It will depend on the type of cap, and the voltage rating.... 35mfd caps
come in voltage ratings from .5v to 50,000v.....

As far as the current handling capabilities of spade terminals, they are
sufficient to run a 5 ton scroll compressor. They just need to be clean and
tight. If the system is grossly over charged, it will cause the compressor
shell to sweat... moisture gets into the terminals, that causes corrosion,
that causes resistance, that causes heat, that causes the terminals to burn.

But......... these are things that you just haven't figured out yet, because
its part of a complete system assesment, as opposed to just washing out the
condenser coils.

I'm looking for a number, in amperes, please. Didn't think you knew.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Steve" wrote in message
...

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
.. .
So, Mr. Knows the Answer. How many amps flow throuch such a cap?


It will depend on the type of cap, and the voltage rating.... 35mfd caps
come in voltage ratings from .5v to 50,000v.....

As far as the current handling capabilities of spade terminals, they are
sufficient to run a 5 ton scroll compressor. They just need to be clean and
tight. If the system is grossly over charged, it will cause the compressor
shell to sweat... moisture gets into the terminals, that causes corrosion,
that causes resistance, that causes heat, that causes the terminals to burn.

But......... these are things that you just haven't figured out yet, because
its part of a complete system assesment, as opposed to just washing out the
condenser coils.

what voltage??

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
.. .
I'm looking for a number, in amperes, please. Didn't think you knew.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Steve" wrote in message
...

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
.. .
So, Mr. Knows the Answer. How many amps flow throuch such a cap?


It will depend on the type of cap, and the voltage rating.... 35mfd caps
come in voltage ratings from .5v to 50,000v.....

As far as the current handling capabilities of spade terminals, they are
sufficient to run a 5 ton scroll compressor. They just need to be clean
and
tight. If the system is grossly over charged, it will cause the compressor
shell to sweat... moisture gets into the terminals, that causes corrosion,
that causes resistance, that causes heat, that causes the terminals to
burn.

But......... these are things that you just haven't figured out yet,
because
its part of a complete system assesment, as opposed to just washing out
the
condenser coils.

How many voltages are provided for the outdoor unit of a residential Trane?

Still didn't think you knew.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Steve" wrote in message
...
what voltage??

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
.. .
I'm looking for a number, in amperes, please. Didn't think you knew.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Steve" wrote in message
...

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
.. .
So, Mr. Knows the Answer. How many amps flow throuch such a cap?


It will depend on the type of cap, and the voltage rating.... 35mfd caps
come in voltage ratings from .5v to 50,000v.....

As far as the current handling capabilities of spade terminals, they are
sufficient to run a 5 ton scroll compressor. They just need to be clean
and
tight. If the system is grossly over charged, it will cause the compressor
shell to sweat... moisture gets into the terminals, that causes corrosion,
that causes resistance, that causes heat, that causes the terminals to
burn.

But......... these are things that you just haven't figured out yet,
because
its part of a complete system assesment, as opposed to just washing out
the
condenser coils.