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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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#1
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Hitachi DVD Player pickup
My Hitachi DVD player, Model DV-P735u, won't play a DVD, but will still play
CD's. I took it into a repair shop, cost me $18 to be told it needs a new pickup, but they didn't repair it, waiting for further instructions. Knowing how expensive repair costs are, I've decided to just buy a new one, full warranty, instead of having them repair this one. But, I was wondering where I could buy the pickup, and attempt to change it myself. Anybody know where one can get such a part, in Canada? Also, is it even worth the cost or effort to repair, even by myself? Tks............DCF |
#2
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You could try mcminone.com This is a parts house in Ohio and I order parts
from them often. While you can probably track down a laser pickup for your DVD, You'll probably find the part is more expensive than the unit itself, unless it's high end. Silly I know, but that's how manufacturers get you to buy a new item because they make it uneconomical to repair your old one. |
#3
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That`s why people should only buy DVD players with AT attachments.
"techdrive" wrote in message lkaboutelectronicequipment ..com... You could try mcminone.com This is a parts house in Ohio and I order parts from them often. While you can probably track down a laser pickup for your DVD, You'll probably find the part is more expensive than the unit itself, unless it's high end. Silly I know, but that's how manufacturers get you to buy a new item because they make it uneconomical to repair your old one. |
#4
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That`s why people should only buy DVD players with AT attachments.
Don't you mean an IDE interface? AT is too generalized. You can have a SCSI DVD drive from an AT or ATX computer and it will never work with a DVD player that uses an IDE interface for the simple fact that the interfaces are different. Secondly, the only way to be completely certain that a player you buy uses an IDE standard drive is to physically take the top cover of the player off. This voids the warranty and, if the player has a tamper-proof sticker, voids the potential for exchange. Besides, I've been noticing a trend where the no-names were starting to implement more proprietary drives in their newer models. Availability of models that use IDE standard DVD-ROM drives are diminishing, even from the likes of Apex and Norcent. Third, most people don't know about or don't have access to drives that cost $25. Most people will try to buy computer drives at retail, which means that the price is higher than you indicated at ALT.VIDEO.DVD. Buying a used DVD-ROM drive as a replacement is a shot in the dark because you just don't know what condition the drive is actually in. If the drive was used constantly, was used in an excessively dusty environment, used in an excessively smokey environment, was ever overheated, or stored in unfavorable environments, then the integrity of the drive itself is in serious question. Generally, DVD-ROM drives can be better than proprietary drives in consumer players because DVD-ROM drives are expected to operate at higher speeds with faster data transfer rates, which means the requirement for more substantial designs is required. Brand name DVD players don't use IDE drives because the extra speed that these drives typically employ don't really provide much performance benefit on normal video playback and can introduce their own set of drawbacks, such as increased noise during operation. Remember, DVD-ROM drives spin discs at much higher revs, which means more noise, which can be unacceptable in a home theater setup. However, and I mean a BIG however, I've seen a few DVD-ROM drives with good traverse designs use some awful optical pickups. DVS, Philips, Sony, Panasonic, LiteOn, Toshiba, Hitachi, Samsung, Pioneer, Afreey, you name it. I've seen at least one DVD-ROM drive from these brands fail for whatever reason due to a worn or contaminated pickup. Plus, players that have used IDE drives have also used some crappy MPEG decoders and a horribly designed analogue stage for the video output. This means that you will not see DVD at its best. You can have colors that are too subdued or are way too hot, not approaching anything that's close to SMPTE levels. Contrast levels that is too cool or too hot, anything above or below 100 IRE is unacceptable. Some models of no-name players have used MPEG decoders which were prone to macroblocking artifacts, which means that portions of the picture can appear blocky for whatever reason. Many no-name players have analogue sections that are skimped, which means that you will have a rather high roll-off on the video which means you get a softer picture. Other no-name brands have employed excessive edge enhancement or artificial picture sharpness if you will, which makes things look sharp initially but is not true resolution and causes ringing artifacts in the picture, which makes objects appear like they have a halo effect at the edges of the object and can also exaggerate macroblocking. And cheap no-name DVD players with progressive scan? Forget it! In addition to the typical performance faults, the deinterlacer solutions used in these players are uttery terrible. Most are flag-dependent and not cadence based, so the player will skip a beat with the majority of DVD titles out there with bad flags. Many also have horribly long recovery times, which means you'll see artifacts every now and then when playing in progressive scan mode when the player trips up between VIDEO and FILM modes. Some no-names don't even have reverse 3:2 pulldown, so you'll see some streaking artifacts on moving objects when trying to play DVDs that were transferred from film elements (which is almost every single DVD that's out right now). 3:2 pulldown is a telecine process that repeats film frames on interlace video fields to fit 24 FPS film on 30 FPS NTSC interlaced video. When you convert this video to progressive scan, you have to undo the 3:2 pulldown so the image will display properly with no artifacts. I have never seen a DVD player from a no-name do this right, if they could do it at all. Some cheaper brand name players also don't get this right completely either. In the case of having a decent progressive scan player, you do have to spend more to get one that has a decent deinterlacing solution, such as the Silicon Image or the Farjouda DCDi chipsets. Or, buy a really good DVD player with a fantastic MPEG decoder, like the old but excellent Panasonic DVD-RV30 or Toshiba SD-2109, and mate it to a high end outboard deinterlacer for high performance progressive scan video. The only decent player that has used IDE drives would be Meridian, and they are an audiophile equipment manufacturer. One player, the Meridian Model 800, retails for over $15,000 (fifteen thousand). If you are after a player that can do anything, with bugs and all that keep them from pushing DVD to its limits. Then, by all means, buy a DVD player from a no-name. But, if you want a DVD player that plays DVDs with a respectable degree of quality first and foremost with only a couple of warts on the video: Sony, Pioneer, JVC, or the Denon DVD-5900 for new players. - Reinhart |
#5
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My Hitachi DVD player, Model DV-P735u, won't play a DVD, but will still play
CD's. No doubt due to the fact that the player was likely OEMed by Samsung. They just don't make decent DVD players. But, I was wondering where I could buy the pickup, and attempt to change it myself. A parts supplier, like MCM, Dalbani, or Digi-Key, to name a few. Or, trying calling a local electronics shop to place an order for a part. You will need the item number of the part, which may sometimes only be listed in the service manual for the player. Also, is it even worth the cost or effort to repair, even by myself? Samsung usually calibrates their pickups at the factory, which puts one aspect in the repair out of the way. You will need a soldering iron to undo the solder short on the new pickup. This short is put there by the factory to protect the internal pickup electronics (laser diode, photosensor) from electrostatic discharge damage. You must remove it prior to installation to allow the pickup to work and to prevent damage to the player. - Reinhart |
#6
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You can get the pickup from the Hitachi parts department. The cost is
not cheap in relation to the cost of a new player of your model. You may be able to mechanicly change the pickup, but you will not be able to do the calibration of it, without the proper calibration disks, service manual, and calibration instrument setup. It also takes a good knowledge in this type of work to be able to do a discent job at it. Jerry G. ======== "cariboo1946" wrote in message news:m79hd.63618$9b.22645@edtnps84... My Hitachi DVD player, Model DV-P735u, won't play a DVD, but will still play CD's. I took it into a repair shop, cost me $18 to be told it needs a new pickup, but they didn't repair it, waiting for further instructions. Knowing how expensive repair costs are, I've decided to just buy a new one, full warranty, instead of having them repair this one. But, I was wondering where I could buy the pickup, and attempt to change it myself. Anybody know where one can get such a part, in Canada? Also, is it even worth the cost or effort to repair, even by myself? Tks............DCF |
#7
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Thank you all, who responded to my thread, muchly appreciated.
After reading the advice given, I have decided to do nothing with this player, except take it out to the work shop, for playing cd's through my stereo. I will be buying a new dvd player WITH EXTENDED WARRANTY for the house. DCF |
#8
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I will be buying a new dvd player WITH EXTENDED WARRANTY for the
house. DCF I recommend Sony, Pioneer, or JVC. - Reinhart |
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