Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair,sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,340
Default Broken FM Xmitter?

About 14 months ago, I bought something that looked like any of the
links below. It worked great, to let me listen to computer audio (such
as web-radio) anywhere in the house or even on the car radio. I used it
in my bedroom, the bathroom, and the kitchen, on different FM radios.

Left it on most of the time. Last week it broke.

Any chance I can repair it? What should I do?

I've turned it off for a day, then unplugged it for a day. Changed
frequencies, adjusted volume, replugged input.

If I open it up, will I see burn marks somewhere? Cold solder?

Is there something I'm missing? (I always feel anything can be fixed.)

(There IS one thing I missed. Do y ou know what it is? But I just
checked and it's not the problem.)


With the input volume all the way up, and the volume of the receiving
radio all the way up, the radio output is about 1/10th or 1/20th what it
used to be. Just enough to know that something is happening. Screen on
the xmitter still lights up and displays the xmission frequency.

I'd never tried a mike before, and it's conceivable it never worked, but
now, when I plug in a mike and turn its volume all the way up, stand
halfway between the transmitter and the radio and yell, no trace of my
voice from the radio.

It never felt hot.



They stopped selling my exact thing only 6 months later, but i'm sure
the warranty was for no more than a year.

This is the same brand but when I click on my previous order, it says
"We couldn't find that page." and it doesn't go he
https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-ST-0...Y3H/ref=sr_1_5
$80 - 10. Still the cheapest. Is that the reason it broke after only
15 months?
(Mine was called "Signstek 0.5 W 05B Dual Mode Long Range Stereo
Broadcast Home FM Transmitter with Antenna and Free Audio Cable Fashion
Black " Return window closed on Mar 4, 2020;
Product support window closed on Aug 1, 2020)
It gets 4.6 stars on 479 ratings! 90% give it 4 or 5 stars, but so
would I have for the first year.

Only one review said it worked at first and failed (after 2 months).
None of the other complaints applied to mine.

Do I have an alternative than buying basically the same thing again?


You can see that the first 3 are all the same in terms of size, shape,
controls, jacks, antenna.

https://www.amazon.com/Transmitter-A...5XS/ref=sr_1_3
$90

https://www.amazon.com/Retekess-Wire...ef=sr_1_2_sspa
$80 This makes reference to an AUX jack, but from the pictures, plainly
they just mean the mike jack. That's fine.

https://www.amazon.com/Transmitter-7..._thematic_sspa
$99 - 20%

To get back some of the money I lost on the broken one, would it be
wrong for me to start my own church?


https://www.amazon.com/0-5-Fail-Safe...f=sr_1_12_sspa
$120 Mine was cheaper, I guess because it had no RCA inputs, which I
have no use for.

There are more, there were more at the time. Did I make a mistake by
buying one that was $10 less than tthe others. $65 instead of 75?

This brings up the same question that I raised with the
auto-vacuum-pressure tester, one of which was 33% higher than the other
which appeared identical in every way. Are ttwo such things the same
thing with different pricing, or do they manage to imitate a good one
and yet make the imitation junky? I know t here is no single rule but
what is your experience?


Functionally similar, based on knobs and jacks, but knobs are closer to
the ends of the panel, it's silver instead of black, and it's twice the
price $200. Does that mean it will last twice as long, 10x as long?
https://www.amazon.com/Fail-Safe-Ran...ef=sr_1_1_sspa

https://www.amazon.com/Transmitter-B..._t2_B01N4Q9GCF
$160
  #2   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair,sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 40,893
Default Broken FM Xmitter?

micky wrote

About 14 months ago, I bought something that looked like any of the
links below. It worked great, to let me listen to computer audio (such
as web-radio) anywhere in the house or even on the car radio. I used it
in my bedroom, the bathroom, and the kitchen, on different FM radios.


Left it on most of the time. Last week it broke.


Any chance I can repair it?


Yes, its possible if it's a simple fault and it looks like it might be.

What should I do?


Work out what broke and see if its feasible to fix.

I've turned it off for a day, then unplugged it for a day.
Changed frequencies, adjusted volume, replugged input.


If I open it up, will I see burn marks somewhere?


Unlikely to be that given that it does still work a bit.

Cold solder?


Unlikely to be that and whacking it to see if that changes
anything is likely to see the volume vary if its that.

Is there something I'm missing? (I always feel anything can be fixed.)


(There IS one thing I missed. Do y ou know what it is?
But I just checked and it's not the problem.)


With the input volume all the way up, and the volume of the receiving
radio all the way up, the radio output is about 1/10th or 1/20th what
it used to be. Just enough to know that something is happening.


Might be that the antenna it uses has come adrift.

Or its more like that the RF amplifier has died.

Screen on the xmitter still lights up and displays the xmission frequency.


I'd never tried a mike before, and it's conceivable it never
worked, but now, when I plug in a mike and turn its volume
all the way up, stand halfway between the transmitter and
the radio and yell, no trace of my voice from the radio.


It never felt hot.


They stopped selling my exact thing only 6 months later,


You may find someone still flogging one, old stock.

but i'm sure the warranty was for no more than a year.


This is the same brand but when I click on my previous order,
it says "We couldn't find that page." and it doesn't go he
https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-ST-0...Y3H/ref=sr_1_5
$80 - 10. Still the cheapest. Is that the reason it broke after only 15
months?


Unlikely, much more likely just not as good a case etc.

(Mine was called "Signstek 0.5 W 05B Dual Mode Long Range Stereo
Broadcast Home FM Transmitter with Antenna and Free Audio Cable
Fashion Black " Return window closed on Mar 4, 2020;
Product support window closed on Aug 1, 2020)
It gets 4.6 stars on 479 ratings!


Not unusual.

90% give it 4 or 5 stars, but so would I have for the first year.


Only one review said it worked at first and failed (after 2 months).
None of the other complaints applied to mine.


Do I have an alternative than buying basically the same thing again?


Yes, bluetooth is now more common, but that would
need a change in all the devices you listen to now.

And you can get smart speakers now which allow you
to play that stuff anywhere around your house, but with
one of them in the locations you need to hear it. Not
so cheap with your multiple locations with the better
audio systems.

You can see that the first 3 are all the same in
terms of size, shape, controls, jacks, antenna.


https://www.amazon.com/Transmitter-A...5XS/ref=sr_1_3
$90


https://www.amazon.com/Retekess-Wire...ef=sr_1_2_sspa
$80 This makes reference to an AUX jack, but from the pictures, plainly
they just mean the mike jack. That's fine.


https://www.amazon.com/Transmitter-7..._thematic_sspa
$99 - 20%


To get back some of the money I lost on the broken one,
would it be wrong for me to start my own church?


Yep, that arsehole of a god would not be pleased and
is sure to infect you with the virus or give you cancer.

After all, he just yawned when his chosen people stopped
grovelling hard enough and let them get gassed and cremated.

https://www.amazon.com/0-5-Fail-Safe...f=sr_1_12_sspa
$120 Mine was cheaper, I guess because it had no RCA inputs, which I
have no use for.


There are more, there were more at the time. Did I make a mistake
by buying one that was $10 less than tthe others. $65 instead of 75?


Nope, it wouldn't have made any difference to the failure rate.

This brings up the same question that I raised with the
auto-vacuum-pressure tester, one of which was 33% higher
than the other which appeared identical in every way. Are
ttwo such things the same thing with different pricing,


Often.

or do they manage to imitate a good
one and yet make the imitation junky?


Sometimes.

I know t here is no single rule but what is your experience?


I normally buy the cheapest but not always, particularly
with smartphones, computers, power tools etc.

Functionally similar, based on knobs and jacks, but knobs are closer
to the ends of the panel, it's silver instead of black, and it's twice the
price $200. Does that mean it will last twice as long, 10x as long?
https://www.amazon.com/Fail-Safe-Ran...ef=sr_1_1_sspa


Corse it will last 100 times as long and will
be working fine long after you are dead.

https://www.amazon.com/Transmitter-B..._t2_B01N4Q9GCF
$160


  #3   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair,sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,340
Default Broken FM Xmitter?

Thanks, for the comprehensive answer, Rod. I read the whole thing but
had started this already. Later, I may have a few wiseacre comments on
your comments. ;-)

The thing I said I'd left out, the debugging step that I hoped you'd all
notice, was that I didn't check the output voltage of the adapter.
Maybe it was enough to light the display but not transmit. However it
was fine, 12v.

While trying to pick a replacement, I finally noticed that a few of htem
were listed as 0.1/0.5W LCD PLL. Even when I saw two wattages, I didn't
remember that mine had that too. It took 2 or 3 minutes and it gradually
came back to me.

So where is the switch to set the output power. Every knob and switch
was accounted for. So let's find a manual. Not so easy.

Finally, googling fm transmitter 0.1/0.5w pll manual gave 53 hits
but the 2 I looked at referred to manually scan.

Then in little grey letters I saw one hit was a pdf file.
https://www.dagcoelectronics.com/wp-...STRUCTIONS.pdf

This is the $200 one. I still have no other evidence it's better than
the $60 one, but one thing it has is that dagoelectronics has a pdf file
all about it including instructions!!

Instructions I had completely forgotten, even that they existed. I
thought I just plugged it in. In fact, that the instructions are the
same as for my cheap one is just a little more evidence they are the
same.

I had had power failures before in the past year but it has worked fine
the entire time. They didnt' change it from high power to low power. I
don't know what did this time.

This is what I was "missing". I'm glad I figured it out before I bought
a second one.

Still 3 problems.
1) I did steps 1 and 2 but thought i was done, didn't pay attention
to step 3, and it doesn't work.
2) I see that it's set 108.00 so I do step 4, and think I'm done, but
it doesn't work.
3) I never yet did steps 5 and 6 and that might come back to bite me,
but I did read and do steps 7 and 8, and it seems to be working now!!


Instructions:

Power Adjustment Menu ĖToggle from 0.5 Watts to 0.1 Watts
Applies to all 2010 V1.2 versions or later with two level power
adjustment: High power (H): 0.5W/500mW(Default); Low-power (L):
0.1W/100mW
NOTE:The power switch (H) is actually like an Enter button when in
the Power Adjustment Menu. Proceed through all steps, if you have any
issues after toggling the power level, please refer to these steps and
set to the defaults and try again.
1. First press and hold the Power Switch/MENU(H) while inserting the
power adapter into the Power Jack (A).
2. Release the power switch (H) after LCD screen displays the "H" or
"L". Use the Frequency Toggles ?/? (I). Press ? or ? to toggle the LCD
screen display between H or L. Again, "H" is the output power 500mW;
"L" is. the output power 100mW.
3. Press the Power Switch/ENTER(H).
4. The LCD screen displays the default setting of "108.00MHz"and the
Mute Symbol will be displayed meaning it is not transmitting and this
will be displayed through Step 7. This is the Highest Frequency the
transmitter will display. Through the ?/? (I) it can be changed from
0.10Ė153.00 MHz.
5. Press the POWER SWITCH/ENTER(H).
6. Now the LCD screen displays the default setting of "76.00MHz". This
is the lowest frequency the transmitter will display. Again, through
the ?/?(I) it can be changed from 0.10 Ė153.00MHz.NOTE the lowest
frequency high-end cannot be higher than the highest frequency selected
in Step 4.
7. Press power switch (H). Wait 3 seconds to exit the Power
Adjustment Menu and LCD screen will display "OFF".
8. Again press the power switch "(H) and the transmitter will power on
and transmitter will begin transmitting.Now reselect the broadcast
frequency.If the broadcast frequency is locked and you cannot toggle,
repeat all steps and reset the High and Low Frequencies to defaults!



More stuff. Formatted and easier to read at the webpage above.

Tips and Tricks
1.Antenna: Always operate the transmitter with asuitable antenna or 50
Ohm dummy load to the output. Failure to comply may cause serious
danger or destruction to the output stage of the transmitter and void
warranty coverage.
POWER JACK(A)ANTENNAPORT(C)AUDIO INPUT (D)FREQUENCY TOGGLES/POWER
SELECTOR(I)AUDIO VOLUME CONTROL(F)POWER SWITCH/MENU/ENTER(H)MICINPUT
(E)MIC VOLUME CONTROL(G)RCA INPUTS(B)
2 Power Supply: Do not exceed 12V 6A power supply. For best results use
a Fail-Safe supplied power supply.



This one is a surprise:

3.MIC: Do not use a MONO plug-type microphone, doing so may cause
permanent damage and void warranty coverage.

I don't know what it means to have a stero mike anyhow, when it's all on
one stalk only 1/2 inch wide, but the plug on the end is indeed TRS,
stereo.



4.Sound: When using most FM transmitters with a PC or MAC computer the
volume level will need to be optimized at devices: (1) transmitter (2)
computer sound card, (3) Media player software, and (4) FM receiver
radio. If necessary, you may consult the instructions of the audio
device to toggle the Equalizer. If Bass is distorted, or static is
heard, minimize bass levels in the input device.

TROUBLESHOOTING:
1. Distortion/Static:Make sure to set the volumelevel of audio source
device and the transmitter at MOST at the50% and adjust up from there.
When using transmitter with PCs or devices with Bass Boost or higher
bass settings, you will want to minimize the levels for the transmitter
does have a built in pre-amp which further amplify the bass and it will
be broadcast as static or crackle. Also note that this transmitterís
sound output level will not match local radio stationís volume levels.

2. Transmit range is weak: The transmit range will vary as per your
environment, antenna type, power setting, and/or frequency setting. You
may need to upgrade the antenna. Placing the antenna on the highest
altitude inside or outside of a building with the least amount of
obstacles will give you the optimum range.Please note that the average
broadcast range with the stock rubber duck antenna is around 300 feet to
a vehicle stereo. Receiver units with weaker strength antennas, may not
get even half of this range. For best results, check out our other
antennas, transmitters, or contact us.

3. Constant hum on radio/when broadcasting: Most likely cause is the
audio cable or MIC but it can also be the power supply, input device, or
antenna. HUMIS RARELYCAUSED BY THE ACTUAL TRANSMITTER!Proceed with the
following steps to attempt correcting the hum:
1) To attempt to correct please start by assuring all cables are
isolated from all power sources and that nothing is coming in contact
with the Antenna or Antenna port.
2) If the hum persists, remove the audio cable and MIC from the
transmitterso that all that is connected to the transmitter is the power
supply and antenna.
3) If the hum ceases, it is either a bad audio cable, the audio cable
is resting on another wire that is causing the hum, or the input device
is causing the hum. You may also have to separate your transmitter from
your input device. We do have Audio Cables in lengths up to 100 ft.
Also, use of input devices with battery chargers has been known to cause
issues with hum/feedback.
4) If the hum persists ensure the antenna pieces are snug. In
addition the antenna should remain in an 90į position. If it easily
tips over, the antenna may be the issue.
5) If hum persists, the only thing left is the power supply. Contact
us if through this troubleshooting leads you to believe that itis the
power supply or antenna.

4. Transmitter will not power on: Please test with either another 12 V
power supply briefly with the transmitter. If you do not have another
power supply, try the transmitter power supply with another device that
accepts 12 V of power, or test it to see if it is still functional. If
you find that the power supply is the issue, or if you do not have the
means to test it, please contact us and we can make arrangements.

5. Transmitter powers on, but not transmitting: Please ensure the Mute
Symbol is not displayed to the right of the frequency. If it is, please
refer to the Power Adjustment Menu Instructions. If it does not transmit
still and the mute symbol is not displayed, then please contact us.

F-S Electronics 2014©32.

Amazingly complicated for a little thing, huh.

Micky





Notes; obsolete now:
In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 24 Apr 2021 19:02:07 -0400, micky
wrote:
......
Do I have an alternative than buying basically the same thing again?


You can see that the first 3 are all the same in terms of size, shape,
controls, jacks, antenna.

https://www.amazon.com/Transmitter-A...5XS/ref=sr_1_3
$90


Has $2 lavalier microphone included

https://www.amazon.com/Retekess-Wire...ef=sr_1_2_sspa
$80 This makes reference to an AUX jack, but from the pictures, plainly
they just mean the mike jack. That's fine.


Also has a fan and a telescoping metal antenna. Others have no fan and
stubby but unbreakable antenna.

https://www.amazon.com/Transmitter-7..._thematic_sspa
$99 - 20%

To get back some of the money I lost on the broken one, would it be
wrong for me to start my own church?


https://www.amazon.com/0-5-Fail-Safe...f=sr_1_12_sspa
$120 Mine was cheaper, I guess because it had no RCA inputs, which I
have no use for.

There are more, there were more at the time. Did I make a mistake by
buying one that was $10 less than tthe others. $65 instead of 75?

This brings up the same question that I raised with the
auto-vacuum-pressure tester, one of which was 33% higher than the other
which appeared identical in every way. Are ttwo such things the same
thing with different pricing, or do they manage to imitate a good one
and yet make the imitation junky? I know t here is no single rule but
what is your experience?


Functionally similar, based on knobs and jacks, but knobs are closer to
the ends of the panel, it's silver instead of black, and it's twice the
price $200. Does that mean it will last twice as long, 10x as long?
https://www.amazon.com/Fail-Safe-Ran...ef=sr_1_1_sspa

Weighs 14.1 ounces, claims this is more than other. 3.9 stars. Stereo
RCA jacks, no sign of a fan, inc. rear view.

https://www.amazon.com/Transmitter-B..._t2_B01N4Q9GCF
$160



https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Tran...f=sr_1_12_sspa
$80-10 St-7c with fan 4.4 stars on 775 revies

https://www.amazon.com/BaseWish-Tran...CX/ref=sr_1_16
$100 no fan 4.5 stars on 9 reviews.

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Broa...9S/ref=sr_1_18
$96 4.6 stars on 26 ratings 0.5W

https://www.amazon.com/Transmitter-7...DR/ref=sr_1_19
$70 5 stars on 1 rating 0.5W
  #4   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair,sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 40,893
Default Broken FM Xmitter?



"micky" wrote in message
...
Thanks, for the comprehensive answer, Rod. I read the whole thing but
had started this already. Later, I may have a few wiseacre comments on
your comments. ;-)

The thing I said I'd left out, the debugging step that I hoped you'd all
notice, was that I didn't check the output voltage of the adapter.
Maybe it was enough to light the display but not transmit. However it
was fine, 12v.

While trying to pick a replacement, I finally noticed that a few of htem
were listed as 0.1/0.5W LCD PLL. Even when I saw two wattages, I didn't
remember that mine had that too. It took 2 or 3 minutes and it gradually
came back to me.

So where is the switch to set the output power. Every knob and switch
was accounted for. So let's find a manual. Not so easy.

Finally, googling fm transmitter 0.1/0.5w pll manual gave 53 hits
but the 2 I looked at referred to manually scan.

Then in little grey letters I saw one hit was a pdf file.
https://www.dagcoelectronics.com/wp-...STRUCTIONS.pdf

This is the $200 one. I still have no other evidence it's better than
the $60 one, but one thing it has is that dagoelectronics has a pdf file
all about it including instructions!!

Instructions I had completely forgotten, even that they existed. I
thought I just plugged it in. In fact, that the instructions are the
same as for my cheap one is just a little more evidence they are the
same.

I had had power failures before in the past year but it has worked fine
the entire time. They didnt' change it from high power to low power. I
don't know what did this time.

This is what I was "missing". I'm glad I figured it out before I bought
a second one.

Still 3 problems.
1) I did steps 1 and 2 but thought i was done, didn't pay attention
to step 3, and it doesn't work.
2) I see that it's set 108.00 so I do step 4, and think I'm done, but
it doesn't work.
3) I never yet did steps 5 and 6 and that might come back to bite me,
but I did read and do steps 7 and 8, and it seems to be working now!!


Instructions:

Power Adjustment Menu -Toggle from 0.5 Watts to 0.1 Watts
Applies to all 2010 V1.2 versions or later with two level power
adjustment: High power (H): 0.5W/500mW(Default); Low-power (L):
0.1W/100mW
NOTE:The power switch (H) is actually like an Enter button when in
the Power Adjustment Menu. Proceed through all steps, if you have any
issues after toggling the power level, please refer to these steps and
set to the defaults and try again.
1. First press and hold the Power Switch/MENU(H) while inserting the
power adapter into the Power Jack (A).
2. Release the power switch (H) after LCD screen displays the "H" or
"L". Use the Frequency Toggles ?/? (I). Press ? or ? to toggle the LCD
screen display between H or L. Again, "H" is the output power 500mW;
"L" is. the output power 100mW.
3. Press the Power Switch/ENTER(H).
4. The LCD screen displays the default setting of "108.00MHz"and the
Mute Symbol will be displayed meaning it is not transmitting and this
will be displayed through Step 7. This is the Highest Frequency the
transmitter will display. Through the ?/? (I) it can be changed from
0.10-153.00 MHz.
5. Press the POWER SWITCH/ENTER(H).
6. Now the LCD screen displays the default setting of "76.00MHz". This
is the lowest frequency the transmitter will display. Again, through
the ?/?(I) it can be changed from 0.10 -153.00MHz.NOTE the lowest
frequency high-end cannot be higher than the highest frequency selected
in Step 4.
7. Press power switch (H). Wait 3 seconds to exit the Power
Adjustment Menu and LCD screen will display "OFF".
8. Again press the power switch "(H) and the transmitter will power on
and transmitter will begin transmitting.Now reselect the broadcast
frequency.If the broadcast frequency is locked and you cannot toggle,
repeat all steps and reset the High and Low Frequencies to defaults!



More stuff. Formatted and easier to read at the webpage above.

Tips and Tricks
1.Antenna: Always operate the transmitter with asuitable antenna or 50
Ohm dummy load to the output. Failure to comply may cause serious
danger or destruction to the output stage of the transmitter and void
warranty coverage.
POWER JACK(A)ANTENNAPORT(C)AUDIO INPUT (D)FREQUENCY TOGGLES/POWER
SELECTOR(I)AUDIO VOLUME CONTROL(F)POWER SWITCH/MENU/ENTER(H)MICINPUT
(E)MIC VOLUME CONTROL(G)RCA INPUTS(B)
2 Power Supply: Do not exceed 12V 6A power supply. For best results use
a Fail-Safe supplied power supply.



This one is a surprise:

3.MIC: Do not use a MONO plug-type microphone, doing so
may cause permanent damage and void warranty coverage.

I don't know what it means to have a stero mike anyhow, when it's all on
one stalk only 1/2 inch wide, but the plug on the end is indeed TRS,
stereo.


It basically has two mics in the one stalk so you get some stereo effect.

4.Sound: When using most FM transmitters with a PC or MAC computer the
volume level will need to be optimized at devices: (1) transmitter (2)
computer sound card, (3) Media player software, and (4) FM receiver
radio. If necessary, you may consult the instructions of the audio
device to toggle the Equalizer. If Bass is distorted, or static is
heard, minimize bass levels in the input device.

TROUBLESHOOTING:
1. Distortion/Static:Make sure to set the volumelevel of audio source
device and the transmitter at MOST at the50% and adjust up from there.
When using transmitter with PCs or devices with Bass Boost or higher
bass settings, you will want to minimize the levels for the transmitter
does have a built in pre-amp which further amplify the bass and it will
be broadcast as static or crackle. Also note that this transmitter's
sound output level will not match local radio station's volume levels.

2. Transmit range is weak: The transmit range will vary as per your
environment, antenna type, power setting, and/or frequency setting. You
may need to upgrade the antenna. Placing the antenna on the highest
altitude inside or outside of a building with the least amount of
obstacles will give you the optimum range.Please note that the average
broadcast range with the stock rubber duck antenna is around 300 feet to
a vehicle stereo. Receiver units with weaker strength antennas, may not
get even half of this range. For best results, check out our other
antennas, transmitters, or contact us.

3. Constant hum on radio/when broadcasting: Most likely cause is the
audio cable or MIC but it can also be the power supply, input device, or
antenna. HUMIS RARELYCAUSED BY THE ACTUAL TRANSMITTER!Proceed with the
following steps to attempt correcting the hum:
1) To attempt to correct please start by assuring all cables are
isolated from all power sources and that nothing is coming in contact
with the Antenna or Antenna port.
2) If the hum persists, remove the audio cable and MIC from the
transmitterso that all that is connected to the transmitter is the power
supply and antenna.
3) If the hum ceases, it is either a bad audio cable, the audio cable
is resting on another wire that is causing the hum, or the input device
is causing the hum. You may also have to separate your transmitter from
your input device. We do have Audio Cables in lengths up to 100 ft.
Also, use of input devices with battery chargers has been known to cause
issues with hum/feedback.
4) If the hum persists ensure the antenna pieces are snug. In
addition the antenna should remain in an 90į position. If it easily
tips over, the antenna may be the issue.
5) If hum persists, the only thing left is the power supply. Contact
us if through this troubleshooting leads you to believe that itis the
power supply or antenna.

4. Transmitter will not power on: Please test with either another 12 V
power supply briefly with the transmitter. If you do not have another
power supply, try the transmitter power supply with another device that
accepts 12 V of power, or test it to see if it is still functional. If
you find that the power supply is the issue, or if you do not have the
means to test it, please contact us and we can make arrangements.

5. Transmitter powers on, but not transmitting: Please ensure the Mute
Symbol is not displayed to the right of the frequency. If it is, please
refer to the Power Adjustment Menu Instructions. If it does not transmit
still and the mute symbol is not displayed, then please contact us.

F-S Electronics 2014©32.

Amazingly complicated for a little thing, huh.


Not really, its doing quite a bit.

Notes; obsolete now:
In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 24 Apr 2021 19:02:07 -0400, micky
wrote:
.....
Do I have an alternative than buying basically the same thing again?


You can see that the first 3 are all the same in terms of size, shape,
controls, jacks, antenna.

https://www.amazon.com/Transmitter-A...5XS/ref=sr_1_3
$90


Has $2 lavalier microphone included

https://www.amazon.com/Retekess-Wire...ef=sr_1_2_sspa
$80 This makes reference to an AUX jack, but from the pictures, plainly
they just mean the mike jack. That's fine.


Also has a fan and a telescoping metal antenna. Others have no fan and
stubby but unbreakable antenna.

https://www.amazon.com/Transmitter-7..._thematic_sspa
$99 - 20%

To get back some of the money I lost on the broken one, would it be
wrong for me to start my own church?


https://www.amazon.com/0-5-Fail-Safe...f=sr_1_12_sspa
$120 Mine was cheaper, I guess because it had no RCA inputs, which I
have no use for.

There are more, there were more at the time. Did I make a mistake by
buying one that was $10 less than tthe others. $65 instead of 75?

This brings up the same question that I raised with the
auto-vacuum-pressure tester, one of which was 33% higher than the other
which appeared identical in every way. Are ttwo such things the same
thing with different pricing, or do they manage to imitate a good one
and yet make the imitation junky? I know t here is no single rule but
what is your experience?


Functionally similar, based on knobs and jacks, but knobs are closer to
the ends of the panel, it's silver instead of black, and it's twice the
price $200. Does that mean it will last twice as long, 10x as long?
https://www.amazon.com/Fail-Safe-Ran...ef=sr_1_1_sspa

Weighs 14.1 ounces, claims this is more than other. 3.9 stars. Stereo
RCA jacks, no sign of a fan, inc. rear view.

https://www.amazon.com/Transmitter-B..._t2_B01N4Q9GCF
$160



https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Tran...f=sr_1_12_sspa
$80-10 St-7c with fan 4.4 stars on 775 revies

https://www.amazon.com/BaseWish-Tran...CX/ref=sr_1_16
$100 no fan 4.5 stars on 9 reviews.

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Broa...9S/ref=sr_1_18
$96 4.6 stars on 26 ratings 0.5W

https://www.amazon.com/Transmitter-7...DR/ref=sr_1_19
$70 5 stars on 1 rating 0.5W


  #5   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair,sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 15,560
Default Lonely Obnoxious Cantankerous Auto-contradicting Senile Ozzie Troll Alert!

On Sun, 25 Apr 2021 10:30:12 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:

FLUSH the useless trolling senile asshole's latest troll**** unread

--
Richard addressing senile Rodent Speed:
"**** you're thick/pathetic excuse for a troll."
MID:


  #6   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair,sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 15,560
Default "Who or What is Rod Speed?"

"Rod Speed is an entirely modern phenomenon. Essentially, Rod Speed
is an insecure and worthless individual who has discovered he can
enhance his own self-esteem in his own eyes by playing "the big, hard
man" on the InterNet."
https://www.pcreview.co.uk/threads/r...d-faq.2973853/

--
pamela about Rodent Speed:
"His off the cuff expertise demonstrates how little he knows..."
MID:
  #7   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair,sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 415
Default Broken FM Xmitter?

On 4/24/2021 6:02 PM, micky wrote:
About 14 months ago, I bought something that looked like any of the
links below. It worked great, to let me listen to computer audio (such
as web-radio) anywhere in the house or even on the car radio. I used it
in my bedroom, the bathroom, and the kitchen, on different FM radios.

Left it on most of the time. Last week it broke.

https://www.amazon.com/0-5-Fail-Safe...f=sr_1_12_sspa
$120 Mine was cheaper, I guess because it had no RCA inputs, which I
have no use for.


¬*¬* I have the FM transmitter listed above. At one time it quit
transmitting.

I could not find any info on the unit at that time.

Here's the schematic as I drew it on my unit manufactured in 2011. May
or may not be correct or complete.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8sjv8u3xls...atest.jpg?dl=0

Here's a picture of the PCB.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/o1vuhbgjcy...tion..jpg?dl=0

F1 is the output transistor, it went defective on my unit.¬* I changed it
and that fixed it. Check the voltages, at the output MosFet

If they don't match what I have on my schematic, it would be suspect. I
used part # RDO1MUS1.

https://www.mitsubishielectric.com/s...4/rd01mus1.pdf

You will also notice when it's working properly, that the 100 ohm
resistor in the L/H power switching circuit runs hot, (I think in low
power mode).

It is just poor design it is a 0.5 watt resistor dissipating 0.59 watts.

But 10 years of often hours of daily use and it is still fine. So you
can ignore that.

¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬* ¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬* Hope that helps, Mikek


--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

  #8   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair,sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 415
Default Broken FM Xmitter?

On 4/26/2021 7:52 AM, amdx wrote:
On 4/24/2021 6:02 PM, micky wrote:
About 14 months ago, I bought something that looked like any of the
links below.¬*¬* It worked great, to let me listen to computer audio (such
as web-radio) anywhere in the house or even on the car radio.¬* I used it
in my bedroom, the bathroom, and the kitchen, on different FM radios.

Left it on most of the time.¬* Last week it broke.

https://www.amazon.com/0-5-Fail-Safe...f=sr_1_12_sspa

$120¬* Mine was cheaper, I guess because it had no RCA inputs, which I
have no use for.


¬*¬* I have the FM transmitter listed above. At one time it quit
transmitting.

I could not find any info on the unit at that time.

Here's the schematic as I drew it on my unit manufactured in 2011. May
or may not be correct or complete.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8sjv8u3xls...atest.jpg?dl=0

Here's a picture of the PCB.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/o1vuhbgjcy...tion..jpg?dl=0

F1 is the output transistor, it went defective on my unit.¬* I changed
it and that fixed it. Check the voltages, at the output MosFet

If they don't match what I have on my schematic, it would be suspect.
I used part # RDO1MUS1.

https://www.mitsubishielectric.com/s...4/rd01mus1.pdf

You will also notice when it's working properly, that the 100 ohm
resistor in the L/H power switching circuit runs hot, (I think in low
power mode).

It is just poor design it is a 0.5 watt resistor dissipating 0.59 watts.

But 10 years of often hours of daily use and it is still fine. So you
can ignore that.

¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬* ¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬* Hope that helps, Mikek


BTW, I bought one in 2011 and paid $114, I bought another in 2017 and
paid $69.

The first one I repaired and is still working, the second one is working
fine.

¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬* ¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬* Mikek




--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

  #9   Report Post  
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 151
Default Broken FM Xmitter?

First, I have a legacy Ramsey FM100B that I built from a kit almost 20 years ago. It has performed flawlessly throughout that time. Sadly, it is no longer made, although they do, occasionally, show up on eBay. Ramsey continues to support them.

Second, there is a LOT of Chinese Junque out there that is awfully cheap, and that is no better than it should be at the price. Those that I have come across have had nice extruded cases, and looked pretty simple. But have not performed anywhere as nicely as the Ramsey.

Third, I suspect that the unit you have that has failed has done so (in rank order) because of a connector failure (antenna, power or input), or because of a failed critical component - because, did I mention, they are cheap.

Fourth, you will notice that the Rangemaster is "FCC Certified". In the world of Part-15 FM transmitters, that does mean something.

You get what you pay for.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
  #10   Report Post  
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 415
Default Broken FM Xmitter?

On 4/26/2021 10:10 AM, Peter W. wrote:
First, I have a legacy Ramsey FM100B that I built from a kit almost 20 years ago. It has performed flawlessly throughout that time. Sadly, it is no longer made, although they do, occasionally, show up on eBay. Ramsey continues to support them.

Second, there is a LOT of Chinese Junque out there that is awfully cheap, and that is no better than it should be at the price. Those that I have come across have had nice extruded cases, and looked pretty simple. But have not performed anywhere as nicely as the Ramsey.

Third, I suspect that the unit you have that has failed has done so (in rank order) because of a connector failure (antenna, power or input), or because of a failed critical component - because, did I mention, they are cheap.

Fourth, you will notice that the Rangemaster is "FCC Certified". In the world of Part-15 FM transmitters, that does mean something.

You get what you pay for.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA


I have a funny story about that. I also had a FM100B I built, I didn't
find it good, It seemed to drift a lot. I thought it was a piece of junk.

Anyway, years ago I had a booth at the Orlando Hamfest. I got into a
discussion with a couple of guys about FM transmitters and told them I
had the CZH-05B, guy A suggest that

it has a lot off frequency output. I countered with, well it works¬* a
lot better than that piece of junk Ramsey FM100B. Guy B ask me if I
realized that I was talking to Mr. Ramsey?

A little embarrassing, but I think he knew it was.

¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬* ¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬* ¬*¬*¬*¬*¬* Mikek


--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus



  #11   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair,sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 415
Default Broken FM Xmitter?

On 4/26/2021 7:52 AM, amdx wrote:
On 4/24/2021 6:02 PM, micky wrote:
About 14 months ago, I bought something that looked like any of the
links below.¬*¬* It worked great, to let me listen to computer audio (such
as web-radio) anywhere in the house or even on the car radio.¬* I used it
in my bedroom, the bathroom, and the kitchen, on different FM radios.

Left it on most of the time.¬* Last week it broke.

https://www.amazon.com/0-5-Fail-Safe...f=sr_1_12_sspa

$120¬* Mine was cheaper, I guess because it had no RCA inputs, which I
have no use for.


¬*¬* I have the FM transmitter listed above. At one time it quit
transmitting.

I could not find any info on the unit at that time.

Here's the schematic as I drew it on my unit manufactured in 2011. May
or may not be correct or complete.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8sjv8u3xls...atest.jpg?dl=0

Here's a picture of the PCB.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/o1vuhbgjcy...tion..jpg?dl=0

F1 is the output transistor, it went defective on my unit.¬* I changed
it and that fixed it. Check the voltages, at the output MosFet

If they don't match what I have on my schematic, it would be suspect.
I used part # RDO1MUS1.

https://www.mitsubishielectric.com/s...4/rd01mus1.pdf

You will also notice when it's working properly, that the 100 ohm
resistor in the L/H power switching circuit runs hot, (I think in low
power mode).

It is just poor design it is a 0.5 watt resistor dissipating 0.59 watts.

But 10 years of often hours of daily use and it is still fine. So you
can ignore that.

¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬* ¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬* Hope that helps, Mikek


¬*Also make sure the 9V regulator is working, I have a faint memory that
I replaced that also, or is that because the soldering doesn't look
factory. :-)

¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬* ¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬* ¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬* Mikek


--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

  #12   Report Post  
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 151
Default Broken FM Xmitter?

Not defending the Ramsey - other than it works as I wish it to - but of all the similarly-priced items out there, it is the most user-friendly to my way of thinking. And against the cheap junk, much better. I hear good things about the Rangemaster - but I have never used one.

I have built five (5) of the Ramsey FM100Bs over time. They are not easy kits, and build-quality matters.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
  #13   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair,sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 415
Default Broken FM Xmitter?

I'm disappointed I haven't seen any response.

Do you have any electronic repair experience? Do you know how to solder"
Do you have a voltmeter?

Do you have any questions?

¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬* ¬*¬* Mikek



--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

  #14   Report Post  
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 415
Default Broken FM Xmitter?

On 4/26/2021 5:07 PM, Peter W. wrote:
Not defending the Ramsey - other than it works as I wish it to - but of all the similarly-priced items out there, it is the most user-friendly to my way of thinking. And against the cheap junk, much better. I hear good things about the Rangemaster - but I have never used one.

I have built five (5) of the Ramsey FM100Bs over time. They are not easy kits, and build-quality matters.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA


¬*I just reviewed some info, that I wrote back in 2016, the Ramsey unit
I built was the FM25. Don't know about the FM100B.

Still looking for a page I wrote back when I fixed the CZH-05B hoping
for more info.

¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬* ¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬* Mikek


--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

  #15   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair,sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,340
Default Broken FM Xmitter?

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 26 Apr 2021 07:52:12 -0500, amdx
wrote:

On 4/24/2021 6:02 PM, micky wrote:
About 14 months ago, I bought something that looked like any of the
links below. It worked great, to let me listen to computer audio (such
as web-radio) anywhere in the house or even on the car radio. I used it
in my bedroom, the bathroom, and the kitchen, on different FM radios.

Left it on most of the time. Last week it broke.

https://www.amazon.com/0-5-Fail-Safe...f=sr_1_12_sspa
$120 Mine was cheaper, I guess because it had no RCA inputs, which I
have no use for.


** I have the FM transmitter listed above. At one time it quit
transmitting.

I could not find any info on the unit at that time.

Here's the schematic as I drew it on my unit manufactured in 2011. May
or may not be correct or complete.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8sjv8u3xls...atest.jpg?dl=0

Here's a picture of the PCB.


Thanks a lot for this information.

I'm saving the files you posted, and the links, for next time.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/o1vuhbgjcy...tion..jpg?dl=0

F1 is the output transistor, it went defective on my unit.* I changed it
and that fixed it. Check the voltages, at the output MosFet


I might be able to do that.

Fortunately it wasn't needed this time. you probably saw that it just
needed to be reset. I don't know what happened to make it stop working
at 0.5W output.

I don't even know when it happened because when the radio didn't get the
signal, I would think, Well maybe the computer is not playing anything,
and it took at least a week before I went from one room to the other to
be sure. I don't remember any power failures, plus there had been short
power failures before that didn't interfere with the xmitter working
right.


If they don't match what I have on my schematic, it would be suspect. I
used part # RDO1MUS1.

https://www.mitsubishielectric.com/s...4/rd01mus1.pdf

You will also notice when it's working properly, that the 100 ohm
resistor in the L/H power switching circuit runs hot, (I think in low
power mode).

It is just poor design it is a 0.5 watt resistor dissipating 0.59 watts.

But 10 years of often hours of daily use and it is still fine. So you
can ignore that.


LOL. Good to hear. Maybe mine will last 10+ years also. It works for
a radio in every room and outside, and even in the car parked outside,
if it's something I don't want to miss. .

********************************** Hope that helps, Mikek




  #16   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair,sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,340
Default Broken FM Xmitter?

In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 27 Apr 2021 09:13:36 -0500, amdx
wrote:

I'm disappointed I haven't seen any response.


These things take time.

Do you have any electronic repair experience?


Yes. I used to clean dirty tv tuners, when they were mechanical. I've
replaced a flyback transformer, diodes, and a bunch of other things I
forget.

Do you know how to solder"


Since I was 9 years old, although all I had then was a wood-burning
iron.

Do you have a voltmeter?


At least 6 of them.

Do you have any questions?

*************************** Mikek


  #17   Report Post  
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 151
Default Broken FM Xmitter?

The original Ramsey FM25 was a toy, and had a range of maybe 50 feet on a good day. Latter day versions became quite reliable. I am not familiar enough with them to know what improvements were made, other than that they were.. Perhaps as an outcome of your conversation?

In any case, the 100B is an entirely different beast from the 25, or even the 30.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
  #18   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair,sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 415
Default Broken FM Xmitter?

On 4/28/2021 4:05 AM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 26 Apr 2021 07:52:12 -0500, amdx
wrote:

On 4/24/2021 6:02 PM, micky wrote:
About 14 months ago, I bought something that looked like any of the
links below. It worked great, to let me listen to computer audio (such
as web-radio) anywhere in the house or even on the car radio. I used it
in my bedroom, the bathroom, and the kitchen, on different FM radios.

Left it on most of the time. Last week it broke.

https://www.amazon.com/0-5-Fail-Safe...f=sr_1_12_sspa
$120 Mine was cheaper, I guess because it had no RCA inputs, which I
have no use for.

¬*¬* I have the FM transmitter listed above. At one time it quit
transmitting.

I could not find any info on the unit at that time.

Here's the schematic as I drew it on my unit manufactured in 2011. May
or may not be correct or complete.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8sjv8u3xls...atest.jpg?dl=0

Here's a picture of the PCB.

Thanks a lot for this information.

I'm saving the files you posted, and the links, for next time.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/o1vuhbgjcy...tion..jpg?dl=0

F1 is the output transistor, it went defective on my unit.¬* I changed it
and that fixed it. Check the voltages, at the output MosFet

I might be able to do that.

Fortunately it wasn't needed this time. you probably saw that it just
needed to be reset.


OH, sorry, I must have glossed over that bit of information.

Well, anyway, I'm glad to have a searchable bit of information in case
someone else has a problem.

It was an interesting project, sense there was nothing to lean on I had
to draw the schematic and figure out how it worked.

Glad it was only the output section, if it was in the digital section, I
would have passed on it.

I tried to make a permanent post about it, but I have searched and it
doesn't pop up.

¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬* ¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬* Mikek



I don't know what happened to make it stop working
at 0.5W output.

I don't even know when it happened because when the radio didn't get the
signal, I would think, Well maybe the computer is not playing anything,
and it took at least a week before I went from one room to the other to
be sure. I don't remember any power failures, plus there had been short
power failures before that didn't interfere with the xmitter working
right.


If they don't match what I have on my schematic, it would be suspect. I
used part # RDO1MUS1.

https://www.mitsubishielectric.com/s...4/rd01mus1.pdf

You will also notice when it's working properly, that the 100 ohm
resistor in the L/H power switching circuit runs hot, (I think in low
power mode).

It is just poor design it is a 0.5 watt resistor dissipating 0.59 watts.

But 10 years of often hours of daily use and it is still fine. So you
can ignore that.

LOL. Good to hear. Maybe mine will last 10+ years also. It works for
a radio in every room and outside, and even in the car parked outside,
if it's something I don't want to miss. .

¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬* ¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬*¬* Hope that helps, Mikek




--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Broken FM Xmitter? micky Home Repair 17 April 28th 21 09:56 PM
URGENT broken adapter or broken latptop Python Studios Electronics Repair 7 May 12th 18 11:35 AM
HELP: unique 2.4GHz video xmitter interference, what causes it? [email protected] Electronics Repair 14 July 15th 08 11:58 AM
Trinitron Monitor Broken - Made Clicking Noises, Now Broken [email protected] Electronics Repair 1 September 3rd 05 10:57 PM
FA: Broken PIONEER DVL-V888 Laserdisc DVD / Broken sharp VL-H860U Hi8camcorder w/ LCD Screen robotron -X- Electronics Repair 0 March 24th 04 03:30 AM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 02:08 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2023, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2023 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"