Scratchy volume control.
 

tabb.. the Troll puked:



Peter Jason wrote:


Thanks, I'll find some & report back.


Petroleum jelly is usable as a lube for electrical things.



** How fascinating.

FYI, Mr NT, Peter Jason has been a notorious troll and resident quarter wit on aus.legal for more than 10 years.



Ignore Phil,


** At your peril.


he's strange.


** NT is completely demented, he thinks he thinks.

Like most of the autistic fools infesting usenet.



.... Phil

Scratchy volume control.
 

On Thursday, February 28, 2019 at 3:21:18 AM UTC-5, wrote:


Petroleum jelly is usable as a lube for electrical things.

While true, the nature of the material is such that it is very hard not to use too much. After which, it is impervious to most of the solvents already discussed here. After which it is hard to deliver exactly where it may be needed.

However, if all of the above problems are solved, it is stable, non-volatile, does not harden over time, oxidizes extremely slowly (years) and so forth.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

Scratchy volume control.
 

On Wednesday, February 27, 2019 at 8:09:09 PM UTC-5, Peter Jason wrote:
On Wed, 27 Feb 2019 18:41:53 -0600, Fox's
Mercantile wrote:

On 2/27/19 6:36 PM, Peter Jason wrote:
I fixed it by flushing the area around the volume
wheel with isoPropanol. The wheel is slightly
harder to turn though this might improve as
remaining traces of solvent evaporate.

It won't. You've flushed all the lubrication out of
it.

....er, what can I use as a replacement lubricant?


I don't know if it's still around, but in the old days we used to be able to buy a silicone solution to refill the eject pistons in cassette players. You can also use Vaseline. To do so though means taking the control out, taking it apart, and lightly covering all moving surfaces.

Back in the late 70s, I was working on a Sony Trinitron that had no color - zip. I got out the old Sams and traced the lost chroma to the color control. It was arranged like a volume control. No matter how the control was manipulated, there was no sign of color. Throwing a jumper across it restored the chroma. For ****s & Giggles, I flushed the control with Tun'O Lube (a clear, oiless cleaner for degreasing tuners without ****ing off the neutralizing trim in RCA mechanical tuners). To my surprise, the color popped back and adjusted normally throughout the range. The only problem was that I had washed out the spooze that Sony filled their controls with to make them feel like they were of high quality and had a heft and weight to them. The customer returned the TV a couple of days later because he didn't like how the control had craploads of endplay and almost no drag as it was rotated. We ordered a new control from Sony to make the guy happy.

Scratchy volume control.
 

On Thu, 28 Feb 2019 04:33:56 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Thursday, February 28, 2019 at 3:21:18 AM UTC-5, wrote:


Petroleum jelly is usable as a lube for electrical things.

While true, the nature of the material is such that it is very hard not to use too much. After which, it is impervious to most of the solvents already discussed here. After which it is hard to deliver exactly where it may be needed.

However, if all of the above problems are solved, it is stable, non-volatile, does not harden over time, oxidizes extremely slowly (years) and so forth.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

I worked in a TV factory when I was young. When a batch of components
arrived from the supplier I had the job of testing potentiometers. It
took hours to get through a pack of 100. The track lubricant used by
the manufacturer was a dense fat. I've no idea what it was called but
it looked like a dense petroleum jelly. Any attempt to clean the track
ruined the lubrication. The test was just to make sure the wiper moved
smoothly before assembly continued. A component replacement cost time
and time cost money!

Steve

--
http://www.npsnn.com

Scratchy volume control.
 

On Thu, 28 Feb 2019 05:05:05 -0800 (PST), John-Del
wrote:

On Wednesday, February 27, 2019 at 8:09:09 PM UTC-5, Peter Jason wrote:
On Wed, 27 Feb 2019 18:41:53 -0600, Fox's
Mercantile wrote:

On 2/27/19 6:36 PM, Peter Jason wrote:
I fixed it by flushing the area around the volume
wheel with isoPropanol. The wheel is slightly
harder to turn though this might improve as
remaining traces of solvent evaporate.

It won't. You've flushed all the lubrication out of
it.

....er, what can I use as a replacement lubricant?


I don't know if it's still around, but in the old days we used to be able to buy a silicone solution to refill the eject pistons in cassette players. You can also use Vaseline. To do so though means taking the control out, taking it apart, and lightly covering all moving surfaces.

Back in the late 70s, I was working on a Sony Trinitron that had no color - zip. I got out the old Sams and traced the lost chroma to the color control. It was arranged like a volume control. No matter how the control was manipulated, there was no sign of color. Throwing a jumper across it restored the chroma. For ****s & Giggles, I flushed the control with Tun'O Lube (a clear, oiless cleaner for degreasing tuners without ****ing off the neutralizing trim in RCA mechanical tuners). To my surprise, the color popped back and adjusted normally throughout the range. The only problem was that I had washed out the spooze that Sony filled their controls with to make them feel like they were of high quality and had a heft and weight to them. The customer returned the TV a couple of days later because he didn't like how the control had craploads of endplay and almost no drag as it was rotated. We ordered a new control from Sony to make the guy happy.

I have a built-in cassette player in my 1998 car.
The player froze up long ago and given all the
advice here it may be possible to resurrect it. Do
these devices have rubber pulleys?

Scratchy volume control.
 

On 2019/02/28 12:53 p.m., Peter Jason wrote:
On Thu, 28 Feb 2019 05:05:05 -0800 (PST), John-Del
wrote:

On Wednesday, February 27, 2019 at 8:09:09 PM UTC-5, Peter Jason wrote:
On Wed, 27 Feb 2019 18:41:53 -0600, Fox's
Mercantile wrote:

On 2/27/19 6:36 PM, Peter Jason wrote:
I fixed it by flushing the area around the volume
wheel with isoPropanol. The wheel is slightly
harder to turn though this might improve as
remaining traces of solvent evaporate.

It won't. You've flushed all the lubrication out of
it.

....er, what can I use as a replacement lubricant?


I don't know if it's still around, but in the old days we used to be able to buy a silicone solution to refill the eject pistons in cassette players. You can also use Vaseline. To do so though means taking the control out, taking it apart, and lightly covering all moving surfaces.

Back in the late 70s, I was working on a Sony Trinitron that had no color - zip. I got out the old Sams and traced the lost chroma to the color control. It was arranged like a volume control. No matter how the control was manipulated, there was no sign of color. Throwing a jumper across it restored the chroma. For ****s & Giggles, I flushed the control with Tun'O Lube (a clear, oiless cleaner for degreasing tuners without ****ing off the neutralizing trim in RCA mechanical tuners). To my surprise, the color popped back and adjusted normally throughout the range. The only problem was that I had washed out the spooze that Sony filled their controls with to make them feel like they were of high quality and had a heft and weight to them. The customer returned the TV a couple of days later because he didn't like how the control had craploads of endplay and almost no drag as it was rotated. We ordered a new control from Sony to make the guy happy.

I have a built-in cassette player in my 1998 car.
The player froze up long ago and given all the
advice here it may be possible to resurrect it. Do
these devices have rubber pulleys?


Cassette players use 'rubber' belts and 'tires' for various mechanical
drive sections. Most of these parts can probably be found, but it will
take some hunting...
In many cases the old rubber-like compound has turned to goo and first
needs to be cleaned out. Then take out your calipers/micrometer and
start measuring! To figure out the size of the belt (square, flat, or
round) use a piece of string to work that out. Measurement is usually IC
(Inside Circumference) of the circle size of the measured string. Allow
a fudge factor and get at least one size smaller and one size larger
than you think you need to save time.

John :-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

Scratchy volume control.
 

On Thursday, 28 February 2019 12:33:59 UTC, wrote:
On Thursday, February 28, 2019 at 3:21:18 AM UTC-5, tabby wrote:


Petroleum jelly is usable as a lube for electrical things.

While true, the nature of the material is such that it is very hard not to use too much.

I've never had that problem.

After which, it is impervious to most of the solvents already discussed here. After which it is hard to deliver exactly where it may be needed.

it doesn't flow like oil, but it's easily moved by squeezing, so will get in there albeit slower. It may suffice.

However, if all of the above problems are solved, it is stable, non-volatile, does not harden over time, oxidizes extremely slowly (years) and so forth.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

not only is it long term stable, but unlike most lubes it doesn't break down into corrosive substances when electrified.


NT

Scratchy volume control.
 

On Thursday, 28 February 2019 20:53:32 UTC, Peter Jason wrote:
On Thu, 28 Feb 2019 05:05:05 -0800 (PST), John-Del
wrote:
On Wednesday, February 27, 2019 at 8:09:09 PM UTC-5, Peter Jason wrote:
On Wed, 27 Feb 2019 18:41:53 -0600, Fox's
Mercantile wrote:
On 2/27/19 6:36 PM, Peter Jason wrote:

I fixed it by flushing the area around the volume
wheel with isoPropanol. The wheel is slightly
harder to turn though this might improve as
remaining traces of solvent evaporate.

It won't. You've flushed all the lubrication out of
it.

....er, what can I use as a replacement lubricant?


I don't know if it's still around, but in the old days we used to be able to buy a silicone solution to refill the eject pistons in cassette players. You can also use Vaseline. To do so though means taking the control out, taking it apart, and lightly covering all moving surfaces.

Back in the late 70s, I was working on a Sony Trinitron that had no color - zip. I got out the old Sams and traced the lost chroma to the color control. It was arranged like a volume control. No matter how the control was manipulated, there was no sign of color. Throwing a jumper across it restored the chroma. For ****s & Giggles, I flushed the control with Tun'O Lube (a clear, oiless cleaner for degreasing tuners without ****ing off the neutralizing trim in RCA mechanical tuners). To my surprise, the color popped back and adjusted normally throughout the range. The only problem was that I had washed out the spooze that Sony filled their controls with to make them feel like they were of high quality and had a heft and weight to them.. The customer returned the TV a couple of days later because he didn't like how the control had craploads of endplay and almost no drag as it was rotated. We ordered a new control from Sony to make the guy happy.

I have a built-in cassette player in my 1998 car.
The player froze up long ago and given all the
advice here it may be possible to resurrect it. Do
these devices have rubber pulleys?

Rubber belts tends to have disintegrated, less often rubber pulleys too. Cheap stationery rubber bands are often good enough, but not always.


NT

Scratchy volume control.
 

Stephen Wolstenholme wrote:



I worked in a TV factory when I was young. When a batch of components
arrived from the supplier I had the job of testing potentiometers. It
took hours to get through a pack of 100. The track lubricant used by
the manufacturer was a dense fat. I've no idea what it was called but
it looked like a dense petroleum jelly. Any attempt to clean the track
ruined the lubrication.


** That is very strange, in 50+ years I have not come across or heard of a potentiometer with any form of grease deliberately applied to the track.

For the simple reason it stops the pot working.


The test was just to make sure the wiper moved
smoothly before assembly continued.


** Pots with a nice. smooth feel have grease packed into the BEARING where the shaft rotates - usually clear silicone.




..... Phil

Scratchy volume control.
 

"** The name is WD40 - not WMD40. *

You claimed it was the same as LPS2, IT IS NOT. First of all if it smells different it is different. Also, LPS2 is electrically inert and stays that way. Not with WD40. I been to many shops, WD40 would throw the alignment off on TV tuners, you know the old type. I told them not to use it, use LPS2. Now the alignment would not drift.

When more than a very sparing amount of LPS2 is used I rinse it off with a mild solvent. It may remain electrically inert but the dust that it collects maybe not. Even if there are not say carbon particles in the environment, even dander and other types of dust, even though they MIGHT be electrically inert, they won't be when the humidity is high. If it is dander you can be sure there is is/are salt(s) in it. Much dust is dander.

Scratchy volume control.
 

"Dubious that it would still be alive, much less at liberty. "

I say give him a gun and watch the fun...

Scratchy volume control.
 

"But it makes a great flame thrower. I think the propellant has
something to do with that. "

Hair spray is much better, but don't use it on electronics.

Scratchy volume control.
 

" ** The propellant is CO2 "

Yup.

What you smell is what burns.

Scratchy volume control.
 

"You have two choices with Phil, agree with him, or
ignore him. "

I have a third choice, I can be fifty times as vile without even trying.

Scratchy volume control.
 

"To figure out the size of the belt (square, flat, or
round) use a piece of string to work that out."

I tried to do that mathematically. Like Oºo. The diameters and distance between.

It didn't work out. (pun optional)

Scratchy volume control.
 

jurb is a **** wrote:


"** The name is WD40 - not WMD40. *

You claimed it was the same as LPS2,



** I did no such thing - you lying ****wit.



IT IS NOT. First of all if it smells different it is different. Also, LPS2 is electrically inert and stays that way. Not with WD40. I been to many shops, WD40 would throw the alignment off on TV tuners, you know the old type.. I told them not to use it, use LPS2. Now the alignment would not drift.



** Utter BULL**** !!!!!!!!!!

ANYTHING that contains oil will make RF tuned circuits drift.



When more than a very sparing amount of LPS2 is used I rinse it off
with a mild solvent. It may remain electrically inert but the dust
that it collects maybe not.



** He says, while clutching at imaginary straws

- what a ****ING NUT CASE !!

Scratchy volume control.
 

"** That is very strange, in 50+ years I have not come across or heard of a potentiometer with any form of grease deliberately applied to the track.

For the simple reason it stops the pot working. "

They put that sh it in the shaft/bushing to get the "feel". Not in the whole thing obviously. It has a pretty high viscosity to say the least. Disassemble one like that and you see the **** is like wax.

Scratchy volume control.
 

On Thu, 28 Feb 2019 13:06:04 +1100, Peter Jason
wrote:

On Wed, 27 Feb 2019 19:13:47 -0600, Fox's
Mercantile wrote:

On 2/27/19 7:09 PM, Peter Jason wrote:
On Wed, 27 Feb 2019 18:41:53 -0600, Fox's
Mercantile wrote:

On 2/27/19 6:36 PM, Peter Jason wrote:
I fixed it by flushing the area around the volume
wheel with isoPropanol. The wheel is slightly
harder to turn though this might improve as
remaining traces of solvent evaporate.

It won't. You've flushed all the lubrication out of
it.

....er, what can I use as a replacement lubricant?


What we told you to use to begin with.
https://caig.com/fader-f-series/

Thanks, I'll find some & report back.

The little radio is working so well that I'll
leave off the lube for a while. The wheel is a
bit easier to twirl now.

Scratchy volume control.
 

On Thu, 28 Feb 2019 05:05:05 -0800 (PST), John-Del
wrote:

The only problem was that I had washed out the spooze that Sony
filled their controls with to make them feel like they were of
high quality and had a heft and weight to them. The customer
returned the TV a couple of days later because he didn't like
how the control had craploads of endplay and almost no drag as
it was rotated. We ordered a new control from Sony to make
the guy happy.

Maybe next time, try damping grease:
https://www.nyelubricants.com/damping-greases
I use a similar Nye grease for lubricating microscope gears[1], which
I've also used successfully for potentiometers and controls when
necessary. The stuff is outrageously expensive, but a small tube will
last a long time. You can get a 5 tube sample of different
viscosities fairly cheap from the company. However, I suspect
ordering a new control from Sony might be easier and cheaper.


[1] https://www.ebay.com/itm/292959265795

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Scratchy volume control.
 

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Thu, 28 Feb 2019 05:05:05 -0800 (PST), John-Del
wrote:

The only problem was that I had washed out the spooze that Sony
filled their controls with to make them feel like they were of
high quality and had a heft and weight to them. The customer
returned the TV a couple of days later because he didn't like
how the control had craploads of endplay and almost no drag as
it was rotated. We ordered a new control from Sony to make
the guy happy.

Maybe next time, try damping grease:
https://www.nyelubricants.com/damping-greases
I use a similar Nye grease for lubricating microscope gears[1], which
I've also used successfully for potentiometers and controls when
necessary. The stuff is outrageously expensive, but a small tube will
last a long time. You can get a 5 tube sample of different
viscosities fairly cheap from the company. However, I suspect
ordering a new control from Sony might be easier and cheaper.


[1] https://www.ebay.com/itm/292959265795


Been looking for something like damping grease.

Greg

Scratchy volume control.
 

On Sun, 3 Mar 2019 08:52:10 -0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Thu, 28 Feb 2019 05:05:05 -0800 (PST), John-Del
wrote:

The only problem was that I had washed out the spooze that Sony
filled their controls with to make them feel like they were of
high quality and had a heft and weight to them. The customer
returned the TV a couple of days later because he didn't like
how the control had craploads of endplay and almost no drag as
it was rotated. We ordered a new control from Sony to make
the guy happy.

Maybe next time, try damping grease:
https://www.nyelubricants.com/damping-greases
I use a similar Nye grease for lubricating microscope gears[1], which
I've also used successfully for potentiometers and controls when
necessary. The stuff is outrageously expensive, but a small tube will
last a long time. You can get a 5 tube sample of different
viscosities fairly cheap from the company. However, I suspect
ordering a new control from Sony might be easier and cheaper.


[1] https://www.ebay.com/itm/292959265795

Been looking for something like damping grease.
Greg

If you're thinking of making your own, forget it. I tried and failed.
The trick is that it should not evaporate, not creep, and has to be
constant viscosity over a wide temperature range. If you read the
optics forums, you'll find that volatized thread lubricant, deposited
on the internal optics, is a really bad idea. This is not much of a
problem with electronic controls, except perhaps security cameras
inside waterproof domes. Creep is having the grease melt and drip all
over the front panel and the owners fingers. Constant viscosity is
needed to keep the controls from feeling loose when hot, and stuck
when cold. I gave up on making my own and over-paid for the real
stuff.

I suggest you NOT use silicone grease, which will creep and land on
the resistance material of a potentiometer or contacts of a switch.
Silicone grease is a good insulator and might produce a bad
connection, especially when mixed with dust and dirt. If this
happens, methinks the best cleaning solvents are hexane or Coleman
camp fuel which is about 25% hexane, and a soapy water cleanup.


--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Scratchy volume control.
 

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sun, 3 Mar 2019 08:52:10 -0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Thu, 28 Feb 2019 05:05:05 -0800 (PST), John-Del
wrote:

The only problem was that I had washed out the spooze that Sony
filled their controls with to make them feel like they were of
high quality and had a heft and weight to them. The customer
returned the TV a couple of days later because he didn't like
how the control had craploads of endplay and almost no drag as
it was rotated. We ordered a new control from Sony to make
the guy happy.

Maybe next time, try damping grease:
https://www.nyelubricants.com/damping-greases
I use a similar Nye grease for lubricating microscope gears[1], which
I've also used successfully for potentiometers and controls when
necessary. The stuff is outrageously expensive, but a small tube will
last a long time. You can get a 5 tube sample of different
viscosities fairly cheap from the company. However, I suspect
ordering a new control from Sony might be easier and cheaper.


[1] https://www.ebay.com/itm/292959265795

Been looking for something like damping grease.
Greg

If you're thinking of making your own, forget it. I tried and failed.
The trick is that it should not evaporate, not creep, and has to be
constant viscosity over a wide temperature range. If you read the
optics forums, you'll find that volatized thread lubricant, deposited
on the internal optics, is a really bad idea. This is not much of a
problem with electronic controls, except perhaps security cameras
inside waterproof domes. Creep is having the grease melt and drip all
over the front panel and the owners fingers. Constant viscosity is
needed to keep the controls from feeling loose when hot, and stuck
when cold. I gave up on making my own and over-paid for the real
stuff.

I suggest you NOT use silicone grease, which will creep and land on
the resistance material of a potentiometer or contacts of a switch.
Silicone grease is a good insulator and might produce a bad
connection, especially when mixed with dust and dirt. If this
happens, methinks the best cleaning solvents are hexane or Coleman
camp fuel which is about 25% hexane, and a soapy water cleanup.


For sliders that sit upright. The particular plastic rails seems
problematic. I tried everything I had including silicone damping fluid, not
on resistance part. The only thing that works is absolute clean, or Deoxit
after it's fully dried. I kept thinking some kind of thick stable grease.
Silicone with TFE nope. Got kit ordered.

Greg

Scratchy volume control.
 

On Mon, 4 Mar 2019 08:32:56 -0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sun, 3 Mar 2019 08:52:10 -0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Thu, 28 Feb 2019 05:05:05 -0800 (PST), John-Del
wrote:

The only problem was that I had washed out the spooze that Sony
filled their controls with to make them feel like they were of
high quality and had a heft and weight to them. The customer
returned the TV a couple of days later because he didn't like
how the control had craploads of endplay and almost no drag as
it was rotated. We ordered a new control from Sony to make
the guy happy.

Maybe next time, try damping grease:
https://www.nyelubricants.com/damping-greases
I use a similar Nye grease for lubricating microscope gears[1], which
I've also used successfully for potentiometers and controls when
necessary. The stuff is outrageously expensive, but a small tube will
last a long time. You can get a 5 tube sample of different
viscosities fairly cheap from the company. However, I suspect
ordering a new control from Sony might be easier and cheaper.


[1] https://www.ebay.com/itm/292959265795

Been looking for something like damping grease.
Greg

If you're thinking of making your own, forget it. I tried and failed.
The trick is that it should not evaporate, not creep, and has to be
constant viscosity over a wide temperature range. If you read the
optics forums, you'll find that volatized thread lubricant, deposited
on the internal optics, is a really bad idea. This is not much of a
problem with electronic controls, except perhaps security cameras
inside waterproof domes. Creep is having the grease melt and drip all
over the front panel and the owners fingers. Constant viscosity is
needed to keep the controls from feeling loose when hot, and stuck
when cold. I gave up on making my own and over-paid for the real
stuff.

I suggest you NOT use silicone grease, which will creep and land on
the resistance material of a potentiometer or contacts of a switch.
Silicone grease is a good insulator and might produce a bad
connection, especially when mixed with dust and dirt. If this
happens, methinks the best cleaning solvents are hexane or Coleman
camp fuel which is about 25% hexane, and a soapy water cleanup.


For sliders that sit upright. The particular plastic rails seems
problematic. I tried everything I had including silicone damping fluid, not
on resistance part. The only thing that works is absolute clean, or Deoxit
after it's fully dried. I kept thinking some kind of thick stable grease.
Silicone with TFE nope. Got kit ordered.

Greg

What about the conducting stuff they use for CPUs
on motherboards?

Scratchy volume control.
 

On Monday, March 4, 2019 at 3:57:56 PM UTC-5, Peter Jason wrote:
On Mon, 4 Mar 2019 08:32:56 -0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sun, 3 Mar 2019 08:52:10 -0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Thu, 28 Feb 2019 05:05:05 -0800 (PST), John-Del
wrote:

The only problem was that I had washed out the spooze that Sony
filled their controls with to make them feel like they were of
high quality and had a heft and weight to them. The customer
returned the TV a couple of days later because he didn't like
how the control had craploads of endplay and almost no drag as
it was rotated. We ordered a new control from Sony to make
the guy happy.

Maybe next time, try damping grease:
https://www.nyelubricants.com/damping-greases
I use a similar Nye grease for lubricating microscope gears[1], which
I've also used successfully for potentiometers and controls when
necessary. The stuff is outrageously expensive, but a small tube will
last a long time. You can get a 5 tube sample of different
viscosities fairly cheap from the company. However, I suspect
ordering a new control from Sony might be easier and cheaper.


[1] https://www.ebay.com/itm/292959265795

Been looking for something like damping grease.
Greg

If you're thinking of making your own, forget it. I tried and failed.
The trick is that it should not evaporate, not creep, and has to be
constant viscosity over a wide temperature range. If you read the
optics forums, you'll find that volatized thread lubricant, deposited
on the internal optics, is a really bad idea. This is not much of a
problem with electronic controls, except perhaps security cameras
inside waterproof domes. Creep is having the grease melt and drip all
over the front panel and the owners fingers. Constant viscosity is
needed to keep the controls from feeling loose when hot, and stuck
when cold. I gave up on making my own and over-paid for the real
stuff.

I suggest you NOT use silicone grease, which will creep and land on
the resistance material of a potentiometer or contacts of a switch.
Silicone grease is a good insulator and might produce a bad
connection, especially when mixed with dust and dirt. If this
happens, methinks the best cleaning solvents are hexane or Coleman
camp fuel which is about 25% hexane, and a soapy water cleanup.


For sliders that sit upright. The particular plastic rails seems
problematic. I tried everything I had including silicone damping fluid, not
on resistance part. The only thing that works is absolute clean, or Deoxit
after it's fully dried. I kept thinking some kind of thick stable grease.
Silicone with TFE nope. Got kit ordered.

Greg

What about the conducting stuff they use for CPUs
on motherboards?


I assume you mean heat conducting stuff? Way too viscous, but I don't know if it will creep (prob not).

Scratchy volume control.
 

Peter Jason wrote:
On Mon, 4 Mar 2019 08:32:56 -0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sun, 3 Mar 2019 08:52:10 -0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Thu, 28 Feb 2019 05:05:05 -0800 (PST), John-Del
wrote:

The only problem was that I had washed out the spooze that Sony
filled their controls with to make them feel like they were of
high quality and had a heft and weight to them. The customer
returned the TV a couple of days later because he didn't like
how the control had craploads of endplay and almost no drag as
it was rotated. We ordered a new control from Sony to make
the guy happy.

Maybe next time, try damping grease:
https://www.nyelubricants.com/damping-greases
I use a similar Nye grease for lubricating microscope gears[1], which
I've also used successfully for potentiometers and controls when
necessary. The stuff is outrageously expensive, but a small tube will
last a long time. You can get a 5 tube sample of different
viscosities fairly cheap from the company. However, I suspect
ordering a new control from Sony might be easier and cheaper.


[1] https://www.ebay.com/itm/292959265795

Been looking for something like damping grease.
Greg

If you're thinking of making your own, forget it. I tried and failed.
The trick is that it should not evaporate, not creep, and has to be
constant viscosity over a wide temperature range. If you read the
optics forums, you'll find that volatized thread lubricant, deposited
on the internal optics, is a really bad idea. This is not much of a
problem with electronic controls, except perhaps security cameras
inside waterproof domes. Creep is having the grease melt and drip all
over the front panel and the owners fingers. Constant viscosity is
needed to keep the controls from feeling loose when hot, and stuck
when cold. I gave up on making my own and over-paid for the real
stuff.

I suggest you NOT use silicone grease, which will creep and land on
the resistance material of a potentiometer or contacts of a switch.
Silicone grease is a good insulator and might produce a bad
connection, especially when mixed with dust and dirt. If this
happens, methinks the best cleaning solvents are hexane or Coleman
camp fuel which is about 25% hexane, and a soapy water cleanup.


For sliders that sit upright. The particular plastic rails seems
problematic. I tried everything I had including silicone damping fluid, not
on resistance part. The only thing that works is absolute clean, or Deoxit
after it's fully dried. I kept thinking some kind of thick stable grease.
Silicone with TFE nope. Got kit ordered.

Greg

What about the conducting stuff they use for CPUs
on motherboards?

My experience shows it dries up. Sure is messy.

Greg

Scratchy volume control.
 

On Tue, 5 Mar 2019 08:22:00 -0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:

What about the conducting stuff they use for CPUs
on motherboards?

My experience shows it dries up. Sure is messy.
Greg

Are you talking about "liquid metal" (gallium-indium) thermal paste?
https://www.thermal-grizzly.com/en/products/26-conductonaut-en
The paste offers an improvement in thermal conductivity, but with some
issues. It rots aluminum heat sinks. It tends to run and drip when
hot, shorting out everything it touches. It's difficult to clean up.
It's expensive. I haven't tried liquid metal, but have cleaned up a
motherboard and video card where the customer applied some.

W/m*K
Diamond 1000
c-BN 740 (Cubic Boron Nitride)
h-BN 600 (Hexagonal Boron Nitride)
Silver 406
Copper 385
Gold 314
AlN 285 (aluminum nitride ceramic)
Aluminum 205
Graphite 200
Carbon 150
SiC 120
Brass 109
Indium 86
Liquid Metal 73 (Indium-gallium-tin)
ZnO 50 (zinc oxide)
Al2O3 25 (aluminum oxide ceramic)
Pastes 4.0
SilPad 2000 3.5
Circuit Works 1.84
Dow Corning 340 0.67

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Scratchy volume control.
 

On Mon, 4 Mar 2019 14:51:11 -0800 (PST), John-Del
wrote:

On Monday, March 4, 2019 at 3:57:56 PM UTC-5, Peter Jason wrote:
On Mon, 4 Mar 2019 08:32:56 -0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sun, 3 Mar 2019 08:52:10 -0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Thu, 28 Feb 2019 05:05:05 -0800 (PST), John-Del
wrote:

The only problem was that I had washed out the spooze that Sony
filled their controls with to make them feel like they were of
high quality and had a heft and weight to them. The customer
returned the TV a couple of days later because he didn't like
how the control had craploads of endplay and almost no drag as
it was rotated. We ordered a new control from Sony to make
the guy happy.

Maybe next time, try damping grease:
https://www.nyelubricants.com/damping-greases
I use a similar Nye grease for lubricating microscope gears[1], which
I've also used successfully for potentiometers and controls when
necessary. The stuff is outrageously expensive, but a small tube will
last a long time. You can get a 5 tube sample of different
viscosities fairly cheap from the company. However, I suspect
ordering a new control from Sony might be easier and cheaper.


[1] https://www.ebay.com/itm/292959265795

Been looking for something like damping grease.
Greg

If you're thinking of making your own, forget it. I tried and failed.
The trick is that it should not evaporate, not creep, and has to be
constant viscosity over a wide temperature range. If you read the
optics forums, you'll find that volatized thread lubricant, deposited
on the internal optics, is a really bad idea. This is not much of a
problem with electronic controls, except perhaps security cameras
inside waterproof domes. Creep is having the grease melt and drip all
over the front panel and the owners fingers. Constant viscosity is
needed to keep the controls from feeling loose when hot, and stuck
when cold. I gave up on making my own and over-paid for the real
stuff.

I suggest you NOT use silicone grease, which will creep and land on
the resistance material of a potentiometer or contacts of a switch.
Silicone grease is a good insulator and might produce a bad
connection, especially when mixed with dust and dirt. If this
happens, methinks the best cleaning solvents are hexane or Coleman
camp fuel which is about 25% hexane, and a soapy water cleanup.


For sliders that sit upright. The particular plastic rails seems
problematic. I tried everything I had including silicone damping fluid, not
on resistance part. The only thing that works is absolute clean, or Deoxit
after it's fully dried. I kept thinking some kind of thick stable grease.
Silicone with TFE nope. Got kit ordered.

Greg

What about the conducting stuff they use for CPUs
on motherboards?


I assume you mean heat conducting stuff? Way too viscous, but I don't
know if it will creep (prob not).

I used contact cleaner to fix a noisy volume control in a
Commander telephone.