Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
![]() |
|
Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I apologize if part of this seems off topic but I thought that the electronic component of it might be on. I have this 3.5 horse engine on my old push mower. The engine is about 38 years old now but the mower is used very infrequently so the hours are not that bad. About 5 or 6 years ago I replaced the old OEM coil that used points, with a used newer electronic type that eliminates the points. The mower is on it's third carburetor, gas tank and second deck but it has always started ok. I tried to start the mower this morning and as sure as my wife said, (I hate it when she's right), "You'll never start that old thing", it wouldn't start. Long story short there is no HV spark to the plug. It seems as though the coil is bad again. I was going to hit up a few used lawnmower places to try to get a replacement coil because I have no engine numbers on my machine to look up the part but I was wondering if anyone knows if it's possible to bench test these things. Thanks for any help Lenny
|
#2
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Friday, 25 May 2018 16:08:10 UTC+1, wrote:
I apologize if part of this seems off topic but I thought that the electronic component of it might be on. I have this 3.5 horse engine on my old push mower. The engine is about 38 years old now but the mower is used very infrequently so the hours are not that bad. About 5 or 6 years ago I replaced the old OEM coil that used points, with a used newer electronic type that eliminates the points. The mower is on it's third carburetor, gas tank and second deck but it has always started ok. I tried to start the mower this morning and as sure as my wife said, (I hate it when she's right), "You'll never start that old thing", it wouldn't start. Long story short there is no HV spark to the plug. It seems as though the coil is bad again. I was going to hit up a few used lawnmower places to try to get a replacement coil because I have no engine numbers on my machine to look up the part but I was wondering if anyone knows if it's possible to bench test these things. Thanks for any help Lenny shouldn't be hard to continuity test the coil LT & HT sides. You have a multimeter? Beware, connecting & disconnecting the meter on the LT side can cause a spark on the HT side. NT |
#4
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Friday, May 25, 2018 at 11:08:10 AM UTC-4, wrote:
I apologize if part of this seems off topic but I thought that the electronic component of it might be on. I have this 3.5 horse engine on my old push mower. The engine is about 38 years old now but the mower is used very infrequently so the hours are not that bad. About 5 or 6 years ago I replaced the old OEM coil that used points, with a used newer electronic type that eliminates the points. The mower is on it's third carburetor, gas tank and second deck but it has always started ok. I tried to start the mower this morning and as sure as my wife said, (I hate it when she's right), "You'll never start that old thing", it wouldn't start. Long story short there is no HV spark to the plug. It seems as though the coil is bad again. I was going to hit up a few used lawnmower places to try to get a replacement coil because I have no engine numbers on my machine to look up the part but I was wondering if anyone knows if it's possible to bench test these things. Thanks for any help Lenny I admire your avoidance of landfill! If all else fails, go electric, they have come a long way since the flip-over B&Ds back in the day. But! Look for corrosion around any connections, and look for a bad spark-plug wire, carbon tracks or similar. Otherwise, these coils have a limited life in that application. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
#5
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]() |
#6
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Saturday, 26 May 2018 02:06:45 UTC+1, wrote:
There were a lot of Briggs and Stratton electronic type magnetos that were prone to failure. I use a method to test suspect magnetos before I spend much time trying to find out why there is no spark. Remove the spark plug from the engine so that it turns over easily. Then stuff a rod or something similar into the the spark plug boot so that it makes good contact with the end of the spark plug wire. Now turn the engine over slowly while holding the rod. You should get at least a tingle. If no tingle then try turning the engine over a little faster. If there is a little tingle then the problem is most likely a bad connection. This could be a corroded ground wire. If, even turning the engine over fairly fast, there isn't even a tingle the magneto is bad or the kill wire is grounded. I have used this method for years and it is a really fast way to find out if the mag is probably good or not. Eric say hi to Darwin for me. |
#7
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]() |
#8
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]() |
#9
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Saturday, May 26, 2018 at 12:51:13 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Fri, 25 May 2018 18:28:53 -0700 (PDT), wrote: On Saturday, 26 May 2018 02:06:45 UTC+1, wrote: There were a lot of Briggs and Stratton electronic type magnetos that were prone to failure. I use a method to test suspect magnetos before I spend much time trying to find out why there is no spark. Remove the spark plug from the engine so that it turns over easily. Then stuff a rod or something similar into the the spark plug boot so that it makes good contact with the end of the spark plug wire. Now turn the engine over slowly while holding the rod. You should get at least a tingle. If no tingle then try turning the engine over a little faster. If there is a little tingle then the problem is most likely a bad connection. This could be a corroded ground wire. If, even turning the engine over fairly fast, there isn't even a tingle the magneto is bad or the kill wire is grounded. I have used this method for years and it is a really fast way to find out if the mag is probably good or not. Eric say hi to Darwin for me. Oh phooey. There is no way you can get a dangerous shock from slowly turning over an old lawnmower engine equipped with a magneto. Sheeesh! Eric Exactly, on a small magneto like this it'll tickle, but this reminds me of a true story: Many many years ago, a guy I knew was having some ignition work done on his stock Hemi Challenger at my buddy's garage, and brought along a magneto to try just in case. Just rotating it a half turn sent him flying! Those things have balls. |
#10
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Sat, 26 May 2018 10:38:17 -0700 (PDT), John-Del
wrote: On Saturday, May 26, 2018 at 12:51:13 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Fri, 25 May 2018 18:28:53 -0700 (PDT), wrote: On Saturday, 26 May 2018 02:06:45 UTC+1, wrote: There were a lot of Briggs and Stratton electronic type magnetos that were prone to failure. I use a method to test suspect magnetos before I spend much time trying to find out why there is no spark. Remove the spark plug from the engine so that it turns over easily. Then stuff a rod or something similar into the the spark plug boot so that it makes good contact with the end of the spark plug wire. Now turn the engine over slowly while holding the rod. You should get at least a tingle. If no tingle then try turning the engine over a little faster. If there is a little tingle then the problem is most likely a bad connection. This could be a corroded ground wire. If, even turning the engine over fairly fast, there isn't even a tingle the magneto is bad or the kill wire is grounded. I have used this method for years and it is a really fast way to find out if the mag is probably good or not. Eric say hi to Darwin for me. Oh phooey. There is no way you can get a dangerous shock from slowly turning over an old lawnmower engine equipped with a magneto. Sheeesh! Eric Exactly, on a small magneto like this it'll tickle, but this reminds me of a true story: Many many years ago, a guy I knew was having some ignition work done on his stock Hemi Challenger at my buddy's garage, and brought along a magneto to try just in case. Just rotating it a half turn sent him flying! Those things have balls. Was the mag the type that winds up when being turned over slowly? I have some old magnetos that work this way. One is on my 1945 Gibson tractor. When turned slowly it winds up a spring inside that lets go when it reaches a certain tension, thereby spinning the magnet fast enough to get a good spark. Those mags will deliver a really good shock. Years ago I had one of these that would only deliver a little tingle. Talking to a guy who knew about mags said that the coil may have absorbed moisture over time, especially since the mag was from a marine engine. He suggested baking the mag in oven at 200 degrees for several hours and then letting it cool in the oven. I tried his suggestion but was dubious. After it was cool I grabbed the spark plug wire and turned the mag over. When it let go I got a really good shock. Made my arm ache. Eric |
#11
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 2018/05/26 10:38 AM, John-Del wrote:
On Saturday, May 26, 2018 at 12:51:13 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Fri, 25 May 2018 18:28:53 -0700 (PDT), wrote: On Saturday, 26 May 2018 02:06:45 UTC+1, wrote: There were a lot of Briggs and Stratton electronic type magnetos that were prone to failure. I use a method to test suspect magnetos before I spend much time trying to find out why there is no spark. Remove the spark plug from the engine so that it turns over easily. Then stuff a rod or something similar into the the spark plug boot so that it makes good contact with the end of the spark plug wire. Now turn the engine over slowly while holding the rod. You should get at least a tingle. If no tingle then try turning the engine over a little faster. If there is a little tingle then the problem is most likely a bad connection. This could be a corroded ground wire. If, even turning the engine over fairly fast, there isn't even a tingle the magneto is bad or the kill wire is grounded. I have used this method for years and it is a really fast way to find out if the mag is probably good or not. Eric say hi to Darwin for me. Oh phooey. There is no way you can get a dangerous shock from slowly turning over an old lawnmower engine equipped with a magneto. Sheeesh! Eric Exactly, on a small magneto like this it'll tickle, but this reminds me of a true story: Many many years ago, a guy I knew was having some ignition work done on his stock Hemi Challenger at my buddy's garage, and brought along a magneto to try just in case. Just rotating it a half turn sent him flying! Those things have balls. Magnetos were used as torture devices by the Nazis and other unscrupulous folks and guess where they were hooked up... John :-#(# |
#12
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Saturday, May 26, 2018 at 1:52:31 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sat, 26 May 2018 10:38:17 -0700 (PDT), John-Del wrote: On Saturday, May 26, 2018 at 12:51:13 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Fri, 25 May 2018 18:28:53 -0700 (PDT), wrote: On Saturday, 26 May 2018 02:06:45 UTC+1, wrote: There were a lot of Briggs and Stratton electronic type magnetos that were prone to failure. I use a method to test suspect magnetos before I spend much time trying to find out why there is no spark. Remove the spark plug from the engine so that it turns over easily. Then stuff a rod or something similar into the the spark plug boot so that it makes good contact with the end of the spark plug wire. Now turn the engine over slowly while holding the rod. You should get at least a tingle. If no tingle then try turning the engine over a little faster. If there is a little tingle then the problem is most likely a bad connection. This could be a corroded ground wire. If, even turning the engine over fairly fast, there isn't even a tingle the magneto is bad or the kill wire is grounded. I have used this method for years and it is a really fast way to find out if the mag is probably good or not. Eric say hi to Darwin for me. Oh phooey. There is no way you can get a dangerous shock from slowly turning over an old lawnmower engine equipped with a magneto. Sheeesh! Eric Exactly, on a small magneto like this it'll tickle, but this reminds me of a true story: Many many years ago, a guy I knew was having some ignition work done on his stock Hemi Challenger at my buddy's garage, and brought along a magneto to try just in case. Just rotating it a half turn sent him flying! Those things have balls. Was the mag the type that winds up when being turned over slowly? I have some old magnetos that work this way. One is on my 1945 Gibson tractor. When turned slowly it winds up a spring inside that lets go when it reaches a certain tension, thereby spinning the magnet fast enough to get a good spark. Those mags will deliver a really good shock. Years ago I had one of these that would only deliver a little tingle. Talking to a guy who knew about mags said that the coil may have absorbed moisture over time, especially since the mag was from a marine engine. He suggested baking the mag in oven at 200 degrees for several hours and then letting it cool in the oven. I tried his suggestion but was dubious. After it was cool I grabbed the spark plug wire and turned the mag over. When it let go I got a really good shock. Made my arm ache. Eric No, just the type they used in race engines. Something like this: http://www.westracingproducts.com/MS...-V8_p_981.html |
#13
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Sat, 26 May 2018 14:06:36 -0700 (PDT), John-Del
wrote: On Saturday, May 26, 2018 at 1:52:31 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Sat, 26 May 2018 10:38:17 -0700 (PDT), John-Del wrote: On Saturday, May 26, 2018 at 12:51:13 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Fri, 25 May 2018 18:28:53 -0700 (PDT), wrote: On Saturday, 26 May 2018 02:06:45 UTC+1, wrote: There were a lot of Briggs and Stratton electronic type magnetos that were prone to failure. I use a method to test suspect magnetos before I spend much time trying to find out why there is no spark. Remove the spark plug from the engine so that it turns over easily. Then stuff a rod or something similar into the the spark plug boot so that it makes good contact with the end of the spark plug wire. Now turn the engine over slowly while holding the rod. You should get at least a tingle. If no tingle then try turning the engine over a little faster. If there is a little tingle then the problem is most likely a bad connection. This could be a corroded ground wire. If, even turning the engine over fairly fast, there isn't even a tingle the magneto is bad or the kill wire is grounded. I have used this method for years and it is a really fast way to find out if the mag is probably good or not. Eric say hi to Darwin for me. Oh phooey. There is no way you can get a dangerous shock from slowly turning over an old lawnmower engine equipped with a magneto. Sheeesh! Eric Exactly, on a small magneto like this it'll tickle, but this reminds me of a true story: Many many years ago, a guy I knew was having some ignition work done on his stock Hemi Challenger at my buddy's garage, and brought along a magneto to try just in case. Just rotating it a half turn sent him flying! Those things have balls. Was the mag the type that winds up when being turned over slowly? I have some old magnetos that work this way. One is on my 1945 Gibson tractor. When turned slowly it winds up a spring inside that lets go when it reaches a certain tension, thereby spinning the magnet fast enough to get a good spark. Those mags will deliver a really good shock. Years ago I had one of these that would only deliver a little tingle. Talking to a guy who knew about mags said that the coil may have absorbed moisture over time, especially since the mag was from a marine engine. He suggested baking the mag in oven at 200 degrees for several hours and then letting it cool in the oven. I tried his suggestion but was dubious. After it was cool I grabbed the spark plug wire and turned the mag over. When it let go I got a really good shock. Made my arm ache. Eric No, just the type they used in race engines. Something like this: http://www.westracingproducts.com/MS...-V8_p_981.html They must have some pretty strong magnets and the voltage at operating RPM must be VERY high. I guess that's what is needed for really high compression engines. Eric |
#14
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]() |
#15
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 5/26/18 5:52 PM, Fox's Mercantile wrote:
At one time, I had a '55 Chevy 2-door sedan. With a 437 cu in big block,Hilborn fuel injection Typo, 427 -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com |
#16
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Friday, May 25, 2018 at 11:08:10 AM UTC-4, wrote:
I apologize if part of this seems off topic but I thought that the electronic component of it might be on. I have this 3.5 horse engine on my old push mower. The engine is about 38 years old now but the mower is used very infrequently so the hours are not that bad. About 5 or 6 years ago I replaced the old OEM coil that used points, with a used newer electronic type that eliminates the points. The mower is on it's third carburetor, gas tank and second deck but it has always started ok. I tried to start the mower this morning and as sure as my wife said, (I hate it when she's right), "You'll never start that old thing", it wouldn't start. Long story short there is no HV spark to the plug. It seems as though the coil is bad again. I was going to hit up a few used lawnmower places to try to get a replacement coil because I have no engine numbers on my machine to look up the part but I was wondering if anyone knows if it's possible to bench test these things. Thanks for any help Lenny I understand the value of "object lessons". I have 5 grandchildren. But why in God's name would you let someone **** on your engine? Lenny |
#17
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]() |
#18
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Sunday, May 27, 2018 at 1:31:50 PM UTC-4, Fox's Mercantile wrote:
On 5/27/18 8:57 AM, wrote: I understand the value of "object lessons". I have 5 grandchildren. But why in God's name would you let someone **** on your engine? Lenny Because 1. it was worth $100 and 2. It was funnier than Hell. LOL! The only shame is that you didn't video record it. |
#19
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 5/28/18 9:44 AM, John-Del wrote:
On Sunday, May 27, 2018 at 1:31:50 PM UTC-4, Fox's Mercantile wrote: On 5/27/18 8:57 AM, wrote: I understand the value of "object lessons". I have 5 grandchildren. But why in God's name would you let someone **** on your engine? Lenny Because 1. it was worth $100 and 2. It was funnier than Hell. LOL! The only shame is that you didn't video record it. This was in the mid '70s. I would have to have had an 8mm camera with me at the time. -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com |
#20
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Just a random thought.
I used to work as a mechanic at a small engine repair shop. One of the cartoons that found a home on the front counter: A kid sitting in the driveway with the lawn mower totally disassembled. And his dad standing there looking at him. "I found the problem. It's out of gas." -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com |
#21
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Mon, 28 May 2018 11:07:16 -0500, Fox's Mercantile
wrote: Just a random thought. I used to work as a mechanic at a small engine repair shop. One of the cartoons that found a home on the front counter: A kid sitting in the driveway with the lawn mower totally disassembled. And his dad standing there looking at him. "I found the problem. It's out of gas." The caption should have been "You're paying me how much to fix this"? -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#22
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
The question remains - did you ever get the beast running again?
Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
#23
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 2018/05/29 5:01 AM, wrote:
The question remains - did you ever get the beast running again? Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA Indeed, it's not like these are convoluted electronic devices. Intake (mix of gas and air), compression, ignition, exhaust. Each cycle can be tested easily enough - starting with a compression test. John :-#)# -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out." |
#24
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]() Too funny. At least Darwin went right for the reproductive organs. Fastest route to stopping the genetic defects. |
#25
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Tuesday, May 29, 2018 at 11:16:21 AM UTC-4, Terry Schwartz wrote:
Too funny. At least Darwin went right for the reproductive organs. Fastest route to stopping the genetic defects. Leaving the most important question, from The Lancet, April 1, 1960-something: Is Sterility Hereditary? Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
#26
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Friday, May 25, 2018 at 11:08:10 AM UTC-4, wrote:
I apologize if part of this seems off topic but I thought that the electronic component of it might be on. I have this 3.5 horse engine on my old push mower. The engine is about 38 years old now but the mower is used very infrequently so the hours are not that bad. About 5 or 6 years ago I replaced the old OEM coil that used points, with a used newer electronic type that eliminates the points. The mower is on it's third carburetor, gas tank and second deck but it has always started ok. I tried to start the mower this morning and as sure as my wife said, (I hate it when she's right), "You'll never start that old thing", it wouldn't start. Long story short there is no HV spark to the plug. It seems as though the coil is bad again. I was going to hit up a few used lawnmower places to try to get a replacement coil because I have no engine numbers on my machine to look up the part but I was wondering if anyone knows if it's possible to bench test these things. Thanks for any help Lenny nope haven't gotten it working yet. Need to find a lawnmower graveyard for a coil.Lenny |
#27
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Friday, May 25, 2018 at 11:08:10 AM UTC-4, wrote:
I apologize if part of this seems off topic but I thought that the electronic component of it might be on. I have this 3.5 horse engine on my old push mower. The engine is about 38 years old now but the mower is used very infrequently so the hours are not that bad. About 5 or 6 years ago I replaced the old OEM coil that used points, with a used newer electronic type that eliminates the points. The mower is on it's third carburetor, gas tank and second deck but it has always started ok. I tried to start the mower this morning and as sure as my wife said, (I hate it when she's right), "You'll never start that old thing", it wouldn't start. Long story short there is no HV spark to the plug. It seems as though the coil is bad again. I was going to hit up a few used lawnmower places to try to get a replacement coil because I have no engine numbers on my machine to look up the part but I was wondering if anyone knows if it's possible to bench test these things. Thanks for any help Lenny nope haven't gotten it working yet. Need to find a lawnmower graveyard for a coil.Lenny |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Briggs and Stratton Engine Problem | Home Repair | |||
Briggs and Stratton Engine Problem | Home Repair | |||
Briggs and Stratton Engine Problem | Home Repair | |||
Hard starting Briggs & Stratton 3.0 hp lawnmower engine | Home Repair | |||
Hard starting Briggs & Stratton 3.0 hp lawnmower engine | Home Ownership |