Got this set dead, fuse was blown. Replaced the BUW12 on the power board,
checked out the rest of that board and fired it up. Power light came on then
set went dead, stupid me, I missed the separate HOT on the sweep board, it's
shorted too. I plan on replacing these parts and trying it again, but first
is there anything major that often fails on these sets? I'm hoping the
flyback and HV block are good, it's a fairly old TV but looks to be in nice
shape and has been sitting for several years.

James,
Usually the H.O.T. short will take out that BUW12A.
Mostly caused by poor solder connections everywhere.
The H.O.T. can be replaced with a 2SD1710.
Unless you have the original BU508v laying around.
You will most likely have a coolant contamination situation when you get it
running.
Also, always replace the 100uf 200volt cap in the power supply.

Good Luck,
Bill Jr



"James Sweet" wrote in message
news:YWlSb.54738$U%5.322632@attbi_s03...
Got this set dead, fuse was blown. Replaced the BUW12 on the power board,
checked out the rest of that board and fired it up. Power light came on
then
set went dead, stupid me, I missed the separate HOT on the sweep board,
it's
shorted too. I plan on replacing these parts and trying it again, but
first
is there anything major that often fails on these sets? I'm hoping the
flyback and HV block are good, it's a fairly old TV but looks to be in
nice
shape and has been sitting for several years.

I replaced the HOT with something I had in my scrap box that has similar
specs, NTE lists the same replacement for both it and the BU508V so
hopefully it'll work. Replaced the BUW12A with another similar transistor,
should have ordered more than one of the correct part, but at least if that
fries again it should only take out the fuse. The TV is out at my mom's
place and the boards are here so I'll have to drive out there and see if it
works. The ESR checked out ok on that cap, does it usually fail? I did find
quite a few cracked solder joints, figured that's probably what caused the
original failure.

As for the coolant, I'll cross that bridge when I come to it, so far I've
been lucky and never had to deal with contaminated coolant, first time for
everything though I suppose.


"Bill Jr" wrote in message
. ..
James,
Usually the H.O.T. short will take out that BUW12A.
Mostly caused by poor solder connections everywhere.
The H.O.T. can be replaced with a 2SD1710.
Unless you have the original BU508v laying around.
You will most likely have a coolant contamination situation when you get
it
running.
Also, always replace the 100uf 200volt cap in the power supply.

Good Luck,
Bill Jr



"James Sweet" wrote in message
news:YWlSb.54738$U%5.322632@attbi_s03...
Got this set dead, fuse was blown. Replaced the BUW12 on the power
board,
checked out the rest of that board and fired it up. Power light came on
then
set went dead, stupid me, I missed the separate HOT on the sweep board,
it's
shorted too. I plan on replacing these parts and trying it again, but
first
is there anything major that often fails on these sets? I'm hoping the
flyback and HV block are good, it's a fairly old TV but looks to be in
nice
shape and has been sitting for several years.

James,
I always replace that 100uf 200 volt cap just for general principle.
They fail regularly.
The transistors aren't that critical on specs so you should be ok.
Not like a Sony.
If you do need some assistance for coolant issues just holler.

Good Luck,
Bill Jr




"James Sweet" wrote in message
news:zhySb.191099$na.317301@attbi_s04...
I replaced the HOT with something I had in my scrap box that has similar
specs, NTE lists the same replacement for both it and the BU508V so
hopefully it'll work. Replaced the BUW12A with another similar transistor,
should have ordered more than one of the correct part, but at least if
that
fries again it should only take out the fuse. The TV is out at my mom's
place and the boards are here so I'll have to drive out there and see if
it
works. The ESR checked out ok on that cap, does it usually fail? I did
find
quite a few cracked solder joints, figured that's probably what caused the
original failure.

As for the coolant, I'll cross that bridge when I come to it, so far I've
been lucky and never had to deal with contaminated coolant, first time for
everything though I suppose.


"Bill Jr" wrote in message
. ..
James,
Usually the H.O.T. short will take out that BUW12A.
Mostly caused by poor solder connections everywhere.
The H.O.T. can be replaced with a 2SD1710.
Unless you have the original BU508v laying around.
You will most likely have a coolant contamination situation when you get
it
running.
Also, always replace the 100uf 200volt cap in the power supply.

Good Luck,
Bill Jr



"James Sweet" wrote in message
news:YWlSb.54738$U%5.322632@attbi_s03...
Got this set dead, fuse was blown. Replaced the BUW12 on the power
board,
checked out the rest of that board and fired it up. Power light came
on
then
set went dead, stupid me, I missed the separate HOT on the sweep
board,
it's
shorted too. I plan on replacing these parts and trying it again, but
first
is there anything major that often fails on these sets? I'm hoping the
flyback and HV block are good, it's a fairly old TV but looks to be in
nice
shape and has been sitting for several years.

"Bill Jr" wrote in message
. com...
James,
I always replace that 100uf 200 volt cap just for general principle.
They fail regularly.
The transistors aren't that critical on specs so you should be ok.
Not like a Sony.
If you do need some assistance for coolant issues just holler.

Good Luck,
Bill Jr



Well apparently my sub in the PSU won't cut it, nothing fries but the supply
doesn't come up either, relay clicks, there's a faint buzzing sound but none
of the outputs come up. 12v standby is present and the power indicator does
come on.

I checked and the blue and green coolant is indeed contaminated, fortunatly
the tubes themselves look to be in good condition, the phosphor is nice and
white-ish with no burn that I noticed. MCM stocks the BUW12A's and coolant,
how much do I need to redo all 3 tubes? I know this has been asked before
but I never paid much attention since I've never had this problem. Before I
place an order, are there any other parts I'm likely to need to complete
this?

James,

You might want to pull that Oscillator board that mounts to the deflection
board and resolder the edge connector.
There are 2 resistors in series that perform startup on the power supply
board.
Located near the center of the board. 330k and 300k if memory serves.
These open up and cause a no start condition. While they are going open they
cause power supply to go crazy. There is special zener diode (Z4 if memory
serves) that can short.



Also could be a bad flyback.

Below is a snippet from a post made 4/24/2002 by me:
For everyone's info....the flybacks listed below are for the most common NAP
Projo sets as listed at MCM at that time. Pricing may vary accordingly.
These are used in the APW009 thru APW028 and maybe a few more.

NAP p/n MCM p/n HR Diemen p/n MCM pricing
362135-1 33-3714 HR6480 $25.96
362135-2 33-3716 HR6481 $25.96
362140-1 33-4286 HR6493 $26.78
362140-2 33-4288 HR6494 $26.65

The following are used to replace the big white square block type flyback
used in some alternate version APW009/010 and possibly APW007/008 boards.

NAP p/n MCM p/n HR Diemen p/n MCM pricing
362003-6 33-4296 HR6541 $34.81
362003-7 33-4298 HR6542 $34.81


As far as the coolant goes, I have only replaced coolant in the Red CRT
chamber once in all my years of doing them. If it is clear then leave it
alone. This will also serve as a reference when setting up the other CRT's
after removing them and changing coolant.
It should take about 9-12 ounces per tube to do coolant change. I would
recommend 2 bottles of 16 ounce coolant to be sure to get the job done.
As long as you are placing an order for parts go ahead and get the correct
transistors.
If you get real stuck just let me know. I can email you my cell phone
number,

Good Luck,
Bill Jr







"James Sweet" wrote in message
news:nACSb.190023$xy6.985528@attbi_s02...

"Bill Jr" wrote in message
. com...
James,
I always replace that 100uf 200 volt cap just for general principle.
They fail regularly.
The transistors aren't that critical on specs so you should be ok.
Not like a Sony.
If you do need some assistance for coolant issues just holler.

Good Luck,
Bill Jr



Well apparently my sub in the PSU won't cut it, nothing fries but the
supply
doesn't come up either, relay clicks, there's a faint buzzing sound but
none
of the outputs come up. 12v standby is present and the power indicator
does
come on.

I checked and the blue and green coolant is indeed contaminated,
fortunatly
the tubes themselves look to be in good condition, the phosphor is nice
and
white-ish with no burn that I noticed. MCM stocks the BUW12A's and
coolant,
how much do I need to redo all 3 tubes? I know this has been asked before
but I never paid much attention since I've never had this problem. Before
I
place an order, are there any other parts I'm likely to need to complete
this?