I have a Hotpoint 8571, combination fridge freezer. I accidentally
left the freezer door open a fraction yesterday. I corrected after no
more than 2 hours and moved switch from 'Economy' to 'Fast freeze' to
compensate. But squishy ice cream today, maybe 20 hours later, pointed
to some problem, which now investigating and would appreciate any
advice please.

I'm measuring temperatures with sensor connected to my external DVM.
(Cable is thin and I reckon seal is maintained.) Fridge temp looks OK,
at 5 deg C. But freezer temp is too high. After an hour, compartment
below the top one is now at only -1 deg. Yet the red 'temperature
warning light' is not on. The instruction book says it 'Comes on when
the temperature inside the freezer compartment rises above the correct
long term storage temperature.'

First question is: what *should* be temperature inside a freezer? And
how long do I need to leave it before regarding that as a stable
temperature?

More important, what is likely cause? A year or two ago I had a
similar problem and engineer ended up having to remove back panel
where we discovered large ice deposits. Took both of us with hair
dryers a good hour to melt it. Should I suspect same this time? If so,
what is *underlying* cause? Any other possibilities?

I've had 8 years use from it, so maybe time has come to replace...

--
Terry Pinnell
Hobbyist, West Sussex, UK

In article ,
Terry Pinnell wrote:

I have a Hotpoint 8571, combination fridge freezer. I accidentally
left the freezer door open a fraction yesterday. I corrected after no
more than 2 hours and moved switch from 'Economy' to 'Fast freeze' to
compensate. But squishy ice cream today, maybe 20 hours later, pointed
to some problem, which now investigating and would appreciate any
advice please.

I'm measuring temperatures with sensor connected to my external DVM.
(Cable is thin and I reckon seal is maintained.) Fridge temp looks OK,
at 5 deg C. But freezer temp is too high. After an hour, compartment
below the top one is now at only -1 deg. Yet the red 'temperature
warning light' is not on. The instruction book says it 'Comes on when
the temperature inside the freezer compartment rises above the correct
long term storage temperature.'

First question is: what *should* be temperature inside a freezer? And
how long do I need to leave it before regarding that as a stable
temperature?

More important, what is likely cause? A year or two ago I had a
similar problem and engineer ended up having to remove back panel
where we discovered large ice deposits. Took both of us with hair
dryers a good hour to melt it. Should I suspect same this time? If so,
what is *underlying* cause? Any other possibilities?

I've had 8 years use from it, so maybe time has come to replace...

It iced up so badly that the defrost cycle isn't enough. Turn it off
for a while and be prepared for the drip pan to overflow.

In article ,
Terry Pinnell wrote:

I have a Hotpoint 8571, combination fridge freezer. I accidentally
left the freezer door open a fraction yesterday. I corrected after no
more than 2 hours and moved switch from 'Economy' to 'Fast freeze' to
compensate. But squishy ice cream today, maybe 20 hours later, pointed
to some problem, which now investigating and would appreciate any
advice please.

I'm measuring temperatures with sensor connected to my external DVM.
(Cable is thin and I reckon seal is maintained.) Fridge temp looks OK,
at 5 deg C. But freezer temp is too high. After an hour, compartment
below the top one is now at only -1 deg. Yet the red 'temperature
warning light' is not on. The instruction book says it 'Comes on when
the temperature inside the freezer compartment rises above the correct
long term storage temperature.'

First question is: what *should* be temperature inside a freezer? And
how long do I need to leave it before regarding that as a stable
temperature?

More important, what is likely cause? A year or two ago I had a
similar problem and engineer ended up having to remove back panel
where we discovered large ice deposits. Took both of us with hair
dryers a good hour to melt it. Should I suspect same this time? If so,
what is *underlying* cause? Any other possibilities?

I've had 8 years use from it, so maybe time has come to replace...

It iced up so badly that the defrost cycle isn't enough. Turn it off
for a while and be prepared for the drip pan to overflow.

"Terry Pinnell" wrote in message
...
I have a Hotpoint 8571, combination fridge freezer. I accidentally
left the freezer door open a fraction yesterday. I corrected after no
more than 2 hours and moved switch from 'Economy' to 'Fast freeze' to
compensate. But squishy ice cream today, maybe 20 hours later, pointed
to some problem, which now investigating and would appreciate any
advice please.

I'm measuring temperatures with sensor connected to my external DVM.
(Cable is thin and I reckon seal is maintained.) Fridge temp looks OK,
at 5 deg C. But freezer temp is too high. After an hour, compartment
below the top one is now at only -1 deg. Yet the red 'temperature
warning light' is not on. The instruction book says it 'Comes on when
the temperature inside the freezer compartment rises above the correct
long term storage temperature.'

First question is: what *should* be temperature inside a freezer? And
how long do I need to leave it before regarding that as a stable
temperature?

More important, what is likely cause? A year or two ago I had a
similar problem and engineer ended up having to remove back panel
where we discovered large ice deposits. Took both of us with hair
dryers a good hour to melt it. Should I suspect same this time? If so,
what is *underlying* cause? Any other possibilities?

I've had 8 years use from it, so maybe time has come to replace...

--
Terry Pinnell
Hobbyist, West Sussex, UK


Have you tried making a visual inspection of the radiator responsible for
rejecting the refrigerator heat to ambient? My fridge uses forced air
cooling to keep this radiator cool. Last time we made a move we noticed
this radiator was utterly clogged with fuzz and dust. I was amazed it still
worked at all, it must have had much reduced cooling capacity and
efficiency. Sounds to me like this might be your ailment.

Since you reclosed the door have you noticed the compressor/cooling
fan/other noise making objects continuously running? Or does it
periodically shut off as if it believes the internal temperature is
regulated properly? Also, what happens when you try to just use economy
cool instead?

My theory is your fridge is fine, the radiator just needs cleaning. It has
probably been operating very marginally for quite a long time now with much
reduced cooling capacity and efficiency, but you never noticed it because it
was never seriously stressed enough to make a big enough difference. I
don't imagine most people wake up in the morning one day (with the fridge
working flawlessly) and spontaneously declare to their spouse, "Say our
fridge is XYZ years old and noone has ever tried cleaning the cooling coils.
I bet it is due. I think I will do that today." I imagine in most
households they are quite neglected.

"Terry Pinnell" wrote in message
...
I have a Hotpoint 8571, combination fridge freezer. I accidentally
left the freezer door open a fraction yesterday. I corrected after no
more than 2 hours and moved switch from 'Economy' to 'Fast freeze' to
compensate. But squishy ice cream today, maybe 20 hours later, pointed
to some problem, which now investigating and would appreciate any
advice please.

I'm measuring temperatures with sensor connected to my external DVM.
(Cable is thin and I reckon seal is maintained.) Fridge temp looks OK,
at 5 deg C. But freezer temp is too high. After an hour, compartment
below the top one is now at only -1 deg. Yet the red 'temperature
warning light' is not on. The instruction book says it 'Comes on when
the temperature inside the freezer compartment rises above the correct
long term storage temperature.'

First question is: what *should* be temperature inside a freezer? And
how long do I need to leave it before regarding that as a stable
temperature?

More important, what is likely cause? A year or two ago I had a
similar problem and engineer ended up having to remove back panel
where we discovered large ice deposits. Took both of us with hair
dryers a good hour to melt it. Should I suspect same this time? If so,
what is *underlying* cause? Any other possibilities?

I've had 8 years use from it, so maybe time has come to replace...

--
Terry Pinnell
Hobbyist, West Sussex, UK


Have you tried making a visual inspection of the radiator responsible for
rejecting the refrigerator heat to ambient? My fridge uses forced air
cooling to keep this radiator cool. Last time we made a move we noticed
this radiator was utterly clogged with fuzz and dust. I was amazed it still
worked at all, it must have had much reduced cooling capacity and
efficiency. Sounds to me like this might be your ailment.

Since you reclosed the door have you noticed the compressor/cooling
fan/other noise making objects continuously running? Or does it
periodically shut off as if it believes the internal temperature is
regulated properly? Also, what happens when you try to just use economy
cool instead?

My theory is your fridge is fine, the radiator just needs cleaning. It has
probably been operating very marginally for quite a long time now with much
reduced cooling capacity and efficiency, but you never noticed it because it
was never seriously stressed enough to make a big enough difference. I
don't imagine most people wake up in the morning one day (with the fridge
working flawlessly) and spontaneously declare to their spouse, "Say our
fridge is XYZ years old and noone has ever tried cleaning the cooling coils.
I bet it is due. I think I will do that today." I imagine in most
households they are quite neglected.

Terry Pinnell wrote:
I have a Hotpoint 8571, combination fridge freezer. I accidentally
left the freezer door open a fraction yesterday. I corrected after no
more than 2 hours and moved switch from 'Economy' to 'Fast freeze' to
compensate. But squishy ice cream today, maybe 20 hours later, pointed
to some problem, which now investigating and would appreciate any
advice please.

I'm measuring temperatures with sensor connected to my external DVM.
(Cable is thin and I reckon seal is maintained.) Fridge temp looks OK,
at 5 deg C. But freezer temp is too high. After an hour, compartment
below the top one is now at only -1 deg. Yet the red 'temperature
warning light' is not on. The instruction book says it 'Comes on when
the temperature inside the freezer compartment rises above the correct
long term storage temperature.'

First question is: what *should* be temperature inside a freezer? And
how long do I need to leave it before regarding that as a stable
temperature?

More important, what is likely cause? A year or two ago I had a
similar problem and engineer ended up having to remove back panel
where we discovered large ice deposits. Took both of us with hair
dryers a good hour to melt it. Should I suspect same this time? If so,
what is *underlying* cause? Any other possibilities?

I've had 8 years use from it, so maybe time has come to replace...


Sometimes if a door is left open even for only a few hours, enough ice
can "grow" to impede the door seal. This creates a snowball effect.
Sorry, couldn't resist it.

I usually expect a proper freezer to be at least (sic) -15, but more
likely -20 to -25. -30 or more (sic) will be noticeable as things will
take significantly longer to thaw, and is probably OTT in a domestic
environment. Fridges with freezer compartments and fridge / freezers
have common compressors and may not be so well controlled.

This thread is beginning to sounds like John Peel's Home Truths.

--
Mike Page BEng(Hons) MIEE www.eclectic-web.co.uk

Terry Pinnell wrote:
I have a Hotpoint 8571, combination fridge freezer. I accidentally
left the freezer door open a fraction yesterday. I corrected after no
more than 2 hours and moved switch from 'Economy' to 'Fast freeze' to
compensate. But squishy ice cream today, maybe 20 hours later, pointed
to some problem, which now investigating and would appreciate any
advice please.

I'm measuring temperatures with sensor connected to my external DVM.
(Cable is thin and I reckon seal is maintained.) Fridge temp looks OK,
at 5 deg C. But freezer temp is too high. After an hour, compartment
below the top one is now at only -1 deg. Yet the red 'temperature
warning light' is not on. The instruction book says it 'Comes on when
the temperature inside the freezer compartment rises above the correct
long term storage temperature.'

First question is: what *should* be temperature inside a freezer? And
how long do I need to leave it before regarding that as a stable
temperature?

More important, what is likely cause? A year or two ago I had a
similar problem and engineer ended up having to remove back panel
where we discovered large ice deposits. Took both of us with hair
dryers a good hour to melt it. Should I suspect same this time? If so,
what is *underlying* cause? Any other possibilities?

I've had 8 years use from it, so maybe time has come to replace...


Sometimes if a door is left open even for only a few hours, enough ice
can "grow" to impede the door seal. This creates a snowball effect.
Sorry, couldn't resist it.

I usually expect a proper freezer to be at least (sic) -15, but more
likely -20 to -25. -30 or more (sic) will be noticeable as things will
take significantly longer to thaw, and is probably OTT in a domestic
environment. Fridges with freezer compartments and fridge / freezers
have common compressors and may not be so well controlled.

This thread is beginning to sounds like John Peel's Home Truths.

--
Mike Page BEng(Hons) MIEE www.eclectic-web.co.uk

Kevin McMurtrie wrote:

It iced up so badly that the defrost cycle isn't enough. Turn it off
for a while and be prepared for the drip pan to overflow.

Thanks Kevin. Does the defrost function apply to both units, despite
the control for it being fridge (upper) sunit?

And do you know where I might find the drip pan?! So far, after
dismantling as much as I can in freezer (lower) unit, I can see where
water drips to, but cannot access whatever it collects in.

There was a lot of ice. But I still have one panel obstructing my
access, and I think I'd need to take several more bits off, plus the
fan, to get that off. So right now, I have a 3 kW fan heater blasting
away, and I'm taking an occasional look for a flood to start spreading
across floor...

--
Terry, West Sussex, UK

Kevin McMurtrie wrote:

It iced up so badly that the defrost cycle isn't enough. Turn it off
for a while and be prepared for the drip pan to overflow.

Thanks Kevin. Does the defrost function apply to both units, despite
the control for it being fridge (upper) sunit?

And do you know where I might find the drip pan?! So far, after
dismantling as much as I can in freezer (lower) unit, I can see where
water drips to, but cannot access whatever it collects in.

There was a lot of ice. But I still have one panel obstructing my
access, and I think I'd need to take several more bits off, plus the
fan, to get that off. So right now, I have a 3 kW fan heater blasting
away, and I'm taking an occasional look for a flood to start spreading
across floor...

--
Terry, West Sussex, UK

- Terry Pinnell -
I have a Hotpoint 8571, combination fridge freezer. I accidentally
left the freezer door open a fraction yesterday. I corrected after no
more than 2 hours and moved switch from 'Economy' to 'Fast freeze' to
compensate. But squishy ice cream today, maybe 20 hours later, pointed
to some problem, which now investigating and would appreciate any
advice please.

I'm measuring temperatures with sensor connected to my external DVM.
(Cable is thin and I reckon seal is maintained.) Fridge temp looks OK,
at 5 deg C. But freezer temp is too high. After an hour, compartment
below the top one is now at only -1 deg. Yet the red 'temperature
warning light' is not on. The instruction book says it 'Comes on when
the temperature inside the freezer compartment rises above the correct
long term storage temperature.'

First question is: what *should* be temperature inside a freezer? And
how long do I need to leave it before regarding that as a stable
temperature?

More important, what is likely cause? A year or two ago I had a
similar problem and engineer ended up having to remove back panel
where we discovered large ice deposits. Took both of us with hair
dryers a good hour to melt it. Should I suspect same this time? If so,
what is *underlying* cause? Any other possibilities?

I've had 8 years use from it, so maybe time has come to replace...


- Nehmo -
Most refrigerators function properly well past eight years.

Since the problem developed after you used the economy/fast freeze
switch (is that a switch or setting on a dial thermostat?), I would
suspect the problem is there.

Does it work properly when you turn it back to the "Economy" setting?

Try doing that, and defrost the whole fridge all the way.

And you can remove the ice deposits, if they are there, simply by
unplugging the fridge and waiting long enough.

--
*******************
* Nehmo Sergheyev *
*******************

- Terry Pinnell -
I have a Hotpoint 8571, combination fridge freezer. I accidentally
left the freezer door open a fraction yesterday. I corrected after no
more than 2 hours and moved switch from 'Economy' to 'Fast freeze' to
compensate. But squishy ice cream today, maybe 20 hours later, pointed
to some problem, which now investigating and would appreciate any
advice please.

I'm measuring temperatures with sensor connected to my external DVM.
(Cable is thin and I reckon seal is maintained.) Fridge temp looks OK,
at 5 deg C. But freezer temp is too high. After an hour, compartment
below the top one is now at only -1 deg. Yet the red 'temperature
warning light' is not on. The instruction book says it 'Comes on when
the temperature inside the freezer compartment rises above the correct
long term storage temperature.'

First question is: what *should* be temperature inside a freezer? And
how long do I need to leave it before regarding that as a stable
temperature?

More important, what is likely cause? A year or two ago I had a
similar problem and engineer ended up having to remove back panel
where we discovered large ice deposits. Took both of us with hair
dryers a good hour to melt it. Should I suspect same this time? If so,
what is *underlying* cause? Any other possibilities?

I've had 8 years use from it, so maybe time has come to replace...


- Nehmo -
Most refrigerators function properly well past eight years.

Since the problem developed after you used the economy/fast freeze
switch (is that a switch or setting on a dial thermostat?), I would
suspect the problem is there.

Does it work properly when you turn it back to the "Economy" setting?

Try doing that, and defrost the whole fridge all the way.

And you can remove the ice deposits, if they are there, simply by
unplugging the fridge and waiting long enough.

--
*******************
* Nehmo Sergheyev *
*******************

Normal Freezer temps are 0 deg f (-17.7c), and refrigerator 40 deg f (4.4c).

cheers

"Terry Pinnell" wrote in message
...
I have a Hotpoint 8571, combination fridge freezer. I accidentally
left the freezer door open a fraction yesterday. I corrected after no
more than 2 hours and moved switch from 'Economy' to 'Fast freeze' to
compensate. But squishy ice cream today, maybe 20 hours later, pointed
to some problem, which now investigating and would appreciate any
advice please.

I'm measuring temperatures with sensor connected to my external DVM.
(Cable is thin and I reckon seal is maintained.) Fridge temp looks OK,
at 5 deg C. But freezer temp is too high. After an hour, compartment
below the top one is now at only -1 deg. Yet the red 'temperature
warning light' is not on. The instruction book says it 'Comes on when
the temperature inside the freezer compartment rises above the correct
long term storage temperature.'

First question is: what *should* be temperature inside a freezer? And
how long do I need to leave it before regarding that as a stable
temperature?

More important, what is likely cause? A year or two ago I had a
similar problem and engineer ended up having to remove back panel
where we discovered large ice deposits. Took both of us with hair
dryers a good hour to melt it. Should I suspect same this time? If so,
what is *underlying* cause? Any other possibilities?

I've had 8 years use from it, so maybe time has come to replace...

--
Terry Pinnell
Hobbyist, West Sussex, UK

Normal Freezer temps are 0 deg f (-17.7c), and refrigerator 40 deg f (4.4c).

cheers

"Terry Pinnell" wrote in message
...
I have a Hotpoint 8571, combination fridge freezer. I accidentally
left the freezer door open a fraction yesterday. I corrected after no
more than 2 hours and moved switch from 'Economy' to 'Fast freeze' to
compensate. But squishy ice cream today, maybe 20 hours later, pointed
to some problem, which now investigating and would appreciate any
advice please.

I'm measuring temperatures with sensor connected to my external DVM.
(Cable is thin and I reckon seal is maintained.) Fridge temp looks OK,
at 5 deg C. But freezer temp is too high. After an hour, compartment
below the top one is now at only -1 deg. Yet the red 'temperature
warning light' is not on. The instruction book says it 'Comes on when
the temperature inside the freezer compartment rises above the correct
long term storage temperature.'

First question is: what *should* be temperature inside a freezer? And
how long do I need to leave it before regarding that as a stable
temperature?

More important, what is likely cause? A year or two ago I had a
similar problem and engineer ended up having to remove back panel
where we discovered large ice deposits. Took both of us with hair
dryers a good hour to melt it. Should I suspect same this time? If so,
what is *underlying* cause? Any other possibilities?

I've had 8 years use from it, so maybe time has come to replace...

--
Terry Pinnell
Hobbyist, West Sussex, UK

Most likely the freezer is working properly. When the door was open it
allowed enough ice built up on the freezing coil to impede the air flow.
The temp sensor then doesn't report the temp of circulating air (which is
very little) but rather the temp near the now frozen coil. The solution is
to do a complete and thorough defrost. If necessary use a hair dryer to
make sure the coils are completely dry before turning back on. This was a
very common problem in some early window air conditioner units about 30 to
40 years ago.

Let us know what you find out.

"Terry Pinnell" wrote in message
...
I have a Hotpoint 8571, combination fridge freezer. I accidentally
left the freezer door open a fraction yesterday. I corrected after no
more than 2 hours and moved switch from 'Economy' to 'Fast freeze' to
compensate. But squishy ice cream today, maybe 20 hours later, pointed
to some problem, which now investigating and would appreciate any
advice please.

I'm measuring temperatures with sensor connected to my external DVM.
(Cable is thin and I reckon seal is maintained.) Fridge temp looks OK,
at 5 deg C. But freezer temp is too high. After an hour, compartment
below the top one is now at only -1 deg. Yet the red 'temperature
warning light' is not on. The instruction book says it 'Comes on when
the temperature inside the freezer compartment rises above the correct
long term storage temperature.'

First question is: what *should* be temperature inside a freezer? And
how long do I need to leave it before regarding that as a stable
temperature?

More important, what is likely cause? A year or two ago I had a
similar problem and engineer ended up having to remove back panel
where we discovered large ice deposits. Took both of us with hair
dryers a good hour to melt it. Should I suspect same this time? If so,
what is *underlying* cause? Any other possibilities?

I've had 8 years use from it, so maybe time has come to replace...

--
Terry Pinnell
Hobbyist, West Sussex, UK

Most likely the freezer is working properly. When the door was open it
allowed enough ice built up on the freezing coil to impede the air flow.
The temp sensor then doesn't report the temp of circulating air (which is
very little) but rather the temp near the now frozen coil. The solution is
to do a complete and thorough defrost. If necessary use a hair dryer to
make sure the coils are completely dry before turning back on. This was a
very common problem in some early window air conditioner units about 30 to
40 years ago.

Let us know what you find out.

"Terry Pinnell" wrote in message
...
I have a Hotpoint 8571, combination fridge freezer. I accidentally
left the freezer door open a fraction yesterday. I corrected after no
more than 2 hours and moved switch from 'Economy' to 'Fast freeze' to
compensate. But squishy ice cream today, maybe 20 hours later, pointed
to some problem, which now investigating and would appreciate any
advice please.

I'm measuring temperatures with sensor connected to my external DVM.
(Cable is thin and I reckon seal is maintained.) Fridge temp looks OK,
at 5 deg C. But freezer temp is too high. After an hour, compartment
below the top one is now at only -1 deg. Yet the red 'temperature
warning light' is not on. The instruction book says it 'Comes on when
the temperature inside the freezer compartment rises above the correct
long term storage temperature.'

First question is: what *should* be temperature inside a freezer? And
how long do I need to leave it before regarding that as a stable
temperature?

More important, what is likely cause? A year or two ago I had a
similar problem and engineer ended up having to remove back panel
where we discovered large ice deposits. Took both of us with hair
dryers a good hour to melt it. Should I suspect same this time? If so,
what is *underlying* cause? Any other possibilities?

I've had 8 years use from it, so maybe time has come to replace...

--
Terry Pinnell
Hobbyist, West Sussex, UK

"Nehmo Sergheyev" wrote in message
news
- Terry Pinnell -
I have a Hotpoint 8571, combination fridge freezer. I accidentally
left the freezer door open a fraction yesterday. I corrected after no
more than 2 hours and moved switch from 'Economy' to 'Fast freeze' to
compensate. But squishy ice cream today, maybe 20 hours later, pointed
to some problem, which now investigating and would appreciate any
advice please.

I'm measuring temperatures with sensor connected to my external DVM.
(Cable is thin and I reckon seal is maintained.) Fridge temp looks OK,
at 5 deg C. But freezer temp is too high. After an hour, compartment
below the top one is now at only -1 deg. Yet the red 'temperature
warning light' is not on. The instruction book says it 'Comes on when
the temperature inside the freezer compartment rises above the correct
long term storage temperature.'

First question is: what *should* be temperature inside a freezer? And
how long do I need to leave it before regarding that as a stable
temperature?

More important, what is likely cause? A year or two ago I had a
similar problem and engineer ended up having to remove back panel
where we discovered large ice deposits. Took both of us with hair
dryers a good hour to melt it. Should I suspect same this time? If so,
what is *underlying* cause? Any other possibilities?

I've had 8 years use from it, so maybe time has come to replace...


This is Turtle.

i did not see your post but till after Nehmo answered your post and then I
saw it.

If these things are true , then do this to cure it.

Is the refrigerator frost free?
Is it a refrigerator and freezer combo?
did this problem start after you left the door open?

If yes to all these do this. Fill about 3 gallons of water in containers and
put them in the refrigerator section and not the freezer. wait 24 hours and
expect about -32ºC or [ -37ºC to -27ºC ] . I don't feel like explaining
all this but if you want post back here and I will explain it.

TURTLE

P.S. Yea , turn the switch back to eco. setting to let it just run.

"Nehmo Sergheyev" wrote in message
news
- Terry Pinnell -
I have a Hotpoint 8571, combination fridge freezer. I accidentally
left the freezer door open a fraction yesterday. I corrected after no
more than 2 hours and moved switch from 'Economy' to 'Fast freeze' to
compensate. But squishy ice cream today, maybe 20 hours later, pointed
to some problem, which now investigating and would appreciate any
advice please.

I'm measuring temperatures with sensor connected to my external DVM.
(Cable is thin and I reckon seal is maintained.) Fridge temp looks OK,
at 5 deg C. But freezer temp is too high. After an hour, compartment
below the top one is now at only -1 deg. Yet the red 'temperature
warning light' is not on. The instruction book says it 'Comes on when
the temperature inside the freezer compartment rises above the correct
long term storage temperature.'

First question is: what *should* be temperature inside a freezer? And
how long do I need to leave it before regarding that as a stable
temperature?

More important, what is likely cause? A year or two ago I had a
similar problem and engineer ended up having to remove back panel
where we discovered large ice deposits. Took both of us with hair
dryers a good hour to melt it. Should I suspect same this time? If so,
what is *underlying* cause? Any other possibilities?

I've had 8 years use from it, so maybe time has come to replace...


This is Turtle.

i did not see your post but till after Nehmo answered your post and then I
saw it.

If these things are true , then do this to cure it.

Is the refrigerator frost free?
Is it a refrigerator and freezer combo?
did this problem start after you left the door open?

If yes to all these do this. Fill about 3 gallons of water in containers and
put them in the refrigerator section and not the freezer. wait 24 hours and
expect about -32ºC or [ -37ºC to -27ºC ] . I don't feel like explaining
all this but if you want post back here and I will explain it.

TURTLE

P.S. Yea , turn the switch back to eco. setting to let it just run.

"Linear" wrote:

Most likely the freezer is working properly. When the door was open it
allowed enough ice built up on the freezing coil to impede the air flow.
The temp sensor then doesn't report the temp of circulating air (which is
very little) but rather the temp near the now frozen coil. The solution is
to do a complete and thorough defrost. If necessary use a hair dryer to
make sure the coils are completely dry before turning back on. This was a
very common problem in some early window air conditioner units about 30 to
40 years ago.

Let us know what you find out.

Thans for all the input guys. It proved to be as Linear suggested. I
probably went OTT by dismantling the panels, but that hastened the
thaw. Used hair dryer, then placed 3 kW fan heater in position for an
hour.

Re-assembled and set it to Fast Freeze. An hour later it was going
well, down to -7C, and this morning -25C! Now returned to normal
setting. I can put away the catalogues for a while now g.

Much appreciated the help.

--
Terry Pinnell
Hobbyist, West Sussex, UK

"Linear" wrote:

Most likely the freezer is working properly. When the door was open it
allowed enough ice built up on the freezing coil to impede the air flow.
The temp sensor then doesn't report the temp of circulating air (which is
very little) but rather the temp near the now frozen coil. The solution is
to do a complete and thorough defrost. If necessary use a hair dryer to
make sure the coils are completely dry before turning back on. This was a
very common problem in some early window air conditioner units about 30 to
40 years ago.

Let us know what you find out.

Thans for all the input guys. It proved to be as Linear suggested. I
probably went OTT by dismantling the panels, but that hastened the
thaw. Used hair dryer, then placed 3 kW fan heater in position for an
hour.

Re-assembled and set it to Fast Freeze. An hour later it was going
well, down to -7C, and this morning -25C! Now returned to normal
setting. I can put away the catalogues for a while now g.

Much appreciated the help.

--
Terry Pinnell
Hobbyist, West Sussex, UK

In article ,
Terry Pinnell wrote:
I have a Hotpoint 8571, combination fridge freezer. I
accidentally left the freezer door open a fraction yesterday. I
corrected after no more than 2 hours and moved switch from
'Economy' to 'Fast freeze' to compensate. But squishy ice cream
today, maybe 20 hours later, pointed to some problem, which now
investigating and would appreciate any advice please.
[snip]
More important, what is likely cause? A year or two ago I had a
similar problem and engineer ended up having to remove back panel
where we discovered large ice deposits. Took both of us with hair
dryers a good hour to melt it. Should I suspect same this time?
If so, what is *underlying* cause? Any other possibilities?

We had this happen a couple of years ago, exactly as you
described, even to the extent of having to remove the
inner lining and use hair driers. A Hotpoint service
engineer later explained that this was a common problem
with 'frost free' fridge-freezers.

The freezer compartment is kept cold by a fan circulating
air, from the cold coils behind the inner lining and through
the compartment. If the air circulation is blocked or stopped
then two things start to happen, the cold coils ice up, and
the compartment loses its supply of cold air. The icing-up
itself then reduces the air flow, which causes more icing-up,
and so on. Our fridge-freezer had a solid block of ice
behind the inner lining, from top to bottom.

The most common trigger is blocking the air flow by simply
having too much stuff in the freezer compartment. Other
triggers are fan failure or, in your case, leaving the door
slightly open.

--
Tony Williams. Change "nospam" to "ledelec" to email.

In article ,
Terry Pinnell wrote:
I have a Hotpoint 8571, combination fridge freezer. I
accidentally left the freezer door open a fraction yesterday. I
corrected after no more than 2 hours and moved switch from
'Economy' to 'Fast freeze' to compensate. But squishy ice cream
today, maybe 20 hours later, pointed to some problem, which now
investigating and would appreciate any advice please.
[snip]
More important, what is likely cause? A year or two ago I had a
similar problem and engineer ended up having to remove back panel
where we discovered large ice deposits. Took both of us with hair
dryers a good hour to melt it. Should I suspect same this time?
If so, what is *underlying* cause? Any other possibilities?

We had this happen a couple of years ago, exactly as you
described, even to the extent of having to remove the
inner lining and use hair driers. A Hotpoint service
engineer later explained that this was a common problem
with 'frost free' fridge-freezers.

The freezer compartment is kept cold by a fan circulating
air, from the cold coils behind the inner lining and through
the compartment. If the air circulation is blocked or stopped
then two things start to happen, the cold coils ice up, and
the compartment loses its supply of cold air. The icing-up
itself then reduces the air flow, which causes more icing-up,
and so on. Our fridge-freezer had a solid block of ice
behind the inner lining, from top to bottom.

The most common trigger is blocking the air flow by simply
having too much stuff in the freezer compartment. Other
triggers are fan failure or, in your case, leaving the door
slightly open.

--
Tony Williams. Change "nospam" to "ledelec" to email.

Tony Williams wrote:

We had this happen a couple of years ago, exactly as you
described, even to the extent of having to remove the
inner lining and use hair driers. A Hotpoint service
engineer later explained that this was a common problem
with 'frost free' fridge-freezers.

The freezer compartment is kept cold by a fan circulating
air, from the cold coils behind the inner lining and through
the compartment. If the air circulation is blocked or stopped
then two things start to happen, the cold coils ice up, and
the compartment loses its supply of cold air. The icing-up
itself then reduces the air flow, which causes more icing-up,
and so on. Our fridge-freezer had a solid block of ice
behind the inner lining, from top to bottom.

The most common trigger is blocking the air flow by simply
having too much stuff in the freezer compartment. Other
triggers are fan failure or, in your case, leaving the door
slightly open.

Thanks Tony. As you'll have seen from my follow-up, happily all now
OK. Last night I was reconciled to spending most of today getting a
new one, so it's good news. The build-up was nowhere near as bad this
time as last. Then, like you, we had to remove an entire slab of ice.

One thing outstanding: where is the drip pan or whatever it's called?
I just can't remember what happened about the water last time, and
this time the volume has been much smaller. But, as mentioned
previously, I've found nothing I can access to empty anyway.

--
Terry Pinnell
Hobbyist, West Sussex, UK

Tony Williams wrote:

We had this happen a couple of years ago, exactly as you
described, even to the extent of having to remove the
inner lining and use hair driers. A Hotpoint service
engineer later explained that this was a common problem
with 'frost free' fridge-freezers.

The freezer compartment is kept cold by a fan circulating
air, from the cold coils behind the inner lining and through
the compartment. If the air circulation is blocked or stopped
then two things start to happen, the cold coils ice up, and
the compartment loses its supply of cold air. The icing-up
itself then reduces the air flow, which causes more icing-up,
and so on. Our fridge-freezer had a solid block of ice
behind the inner lining, from top to bottom.

The most common trigger is blocking the air flow by simply
having too much stuff in the freezer compartment. Other
triggers are fan failure or, in your case, leaving the door
slightly open.

Thanks Tony. As you'll have seen from my follow-up, happily all now
OK. Last night I was reconciled to spending most of today getting a
new one, so it's good news. The build-up was nowhere near as bad this
time as last. Then, like you, we had to remove an entire slab of ice.

One thing outstanding: where is the drip pan or whatever it's called?
I just can't remember what happened about the water last time, and
this time the volume has been much smaller. But, as mentioned
previously, I've found nothing I can access to empty anyway.

--
Terry Pinnell
Hobbyist, West Sussex, UK

In article ,
Terry Pinnell wrote:

One thing outstanding: where is the drip pan or whatever it's
called? I just can't remember what happened about the water last
time, and this time the volume has been much smaller. But, as
mentioned previously, I've found nothing I can access to empty
anyway.

There are heated funnelled channels behind the inner lining
that drain into a tube going downwards. This tube empties
into a little plastic cup that sits on top of the compressor
assembly. The heat from the compressor evaporates the water.

How do I know all that? Because during re-assembly I dropped one
of the little screws onto a funnel and it instantly shot down the
drain hole. I had to pull the whole fridge away from the wall and
scrabble around the back, dismantling the drainpipe assembly.

--
Tony Williams. Change "nospam" to "ledelec" to email.

In article ,
Terry Pinnell wrote:

One thing outstanding: where is the drip pan or whatever it's
called? I just can't remember what happened about the water last
time, and this time the volume has been much smaller. But, as
mentioned previously, I've found nothing I can access to empty
anyway.

There are heated funnelled channels behind the inner lining
that drain into a tube going downwards. This tube empties
into a little plastic cup that sits on top of the compressor
assembly. The heat from the compressor evaporates the water.

How do I know all that? Because during re-assembly I dropped one
of the little screws onto a funnel and it instantly shot down the
drain hole. I had to pull the whole fridge away from the wall and
scrabble around the back, dismantling the drainpipe assembly.

--
Tony Williams. Change "nospam" to "ledelec" to email.

Tony Williams wrote:

In article ,
Terry Pinnell wrote:

One thing outstanding: where is the drip pan or whatever it's
called? I just can't remember what happened about the water last
time, and this time the volume has been much smaller. But, as
mentioned previously, I've found nothing I can access to empty
anyway.

There are heated funnelled channels behind the inner lining
that drain into a tube going downwards. This tube empties
into a little plastic cup that sits on top of the compressor
assembly. The heat from the compressor evaporates the water.

How do I know all that? Because during re-assembly I dropped one
of the little screws onto a funnel and it instantly shot down the
drain hole. I had to pull the whole fridge away from the wall and
scrabble around the back, dismantling the drainpipe assembly.

Thanks for solving that mystery.

As soon as I spotted that drain hole below my unscrewing area, I just
knew that the usual would happen if I didn't take precautions. This
time I paused long enough to stuff some cardboard into it!

--
Terry Pinnell
Hobbyist, West Sussex, UK

Tony Williams wrote:

In article ,
Terry Pinnell wrote:

One thing outstanding: where is the drip pan or whatever it's
called? I just can't remember what happened about the water last
time, and this time the volume has been much smaller. But, as
mentioned previously, I've found nothing I can access to empty
anyway.

There are heated funnelled channels behind the inner lining
that drain into a tube going downwards. This tube empties
into a little plastic cup that sits on top of the compressor
assembly. The heat from the compressor evaporates the water.

How do I know all that? Because during re-assembly I dropped one
of the little screws onto a funnel and it instantly shot down the
drain hole. I had to pull the whole fridge away from the wall and
scrabble around the back, dismantling the drainpipe assembly.

Thanks for solving that mystery.

As soon as I spotted that drain hole below my unscrewing area, I just
knew that the usual would happen if I didn't take precautions. This
time I paused long enough to stuff some cardboard into it!

--
Terry Pinnell
Hobbyist, West Sussex, UK

Terry Pinnell wrote:
Tony Williams wrote:


In article ,
Terry Pinnell wrote:


One thing outstanding: where is the drip pan or whatever it's
called? I just can't remember what happened about the water last
time, and this time the volume has been much smaller. But, as
mentioned previously, I've found nothing I can access to empty
anyway.

There are heated funnelled channels behind the inner lining
that drain into a tube going downwards. This tube empties
into a little plastic cup that sits on top of the compressor
assembly. The heat from the compressor evaporates the water.

How do I know all that? Because during re-assembly I dropped one
of the little screws onto a funnel and it instantly shot down the
drain hole. I had to pull the whole fridge away from the wall and
scrabble around the back, dismantling the drainpipe assembly.


Thanks for solving that mystery.

As soon as I spotted that drain hole below my unscrewing area, I just
knew that the usual would happen if I didn't take precautions. This
time I paused long enough to stuff some cardboard into it!


I assume you are talking about a side-by-side? If you have an ice
machine in the freezer, be sure to turn this OFF until you return to
normal operation.

Terry Pinnell wrote:
Tony Williams wrote:


In article ,
Terry Pinnell wrote:


One thing outstanding: where is the drip pan or whatever it's
called? I just can't remember what happened about the water last
time, and this time the volume has been much smaller. But, as
mentioned previously, I've found nothing I can access to empty
anyway.

There are heated funnelled channels behind the inner lining
that drain into a tube going downwards. This tube empties
into a little plastic cup that sits on top of the compressor
assembly. The heat from the compressor evaporates the water.

How do I know all that? Because during re-assembly I dropped one
of the little screws onto a funnel and it instantly shot down the
drain hole. I had to pull the whole fridge away from the wall and
scrabble around the back, dismantling the drainpipe assembly.


Thanks for solving that mystery.

As soon as I spotted that drain hole below my unscrewing area, I just
knew that the usual would happen if I didn't take precautions. This
time I paused long enough to stuff some cardboard into it!


I assume you are talking about a side-by-side? If you have an ice
machine in the freezer, be sure to turn this OFF until you return to
normal operation.

In article ,

I assume you are talking about a side-by-side? If you have an ice
machine in the freezer, be sure to turn this OFF until you
return to normal operation.

I don't know if it is a type of fridge-freezer that
you would see in the US Fred. The fridge and freezer
compartments are above each other, both with their
own doors. The cheapest models use a single compressor,
which is controlled by a thermostat in the fridge only.
The fridge is controlled to run at just above 0C and
the freezer compartment runs at 'minus something' just
by circulating air around the coldest part of the coils.

The design suffers from two major faults. The first
one is the one that Terry has recently experienced,
freezer compartment defrosting due to blocked airflow.
The second problem is more subtle.... if you install
such a fridge-freezer in an environment which runs at
lower than about 18C then the freezer compartment can
also warm up. This is because, at 18C ambient, the
fridge, (which is doing the controlling), doesn't run
the compressor enough to keep the freezer compartment
down at it's 'minus something'.

That second problem often occurs with 1-compressor models
kept (say) in an unheated garage, during winter months.

--
Tony Williams. Change "nospam" to "ledelec" to email.

In article ,

I assume you are talking about a side-by-side? If you have an ice
machine in the freezer, be sure to turn this OFF until you
return to normal operation.

I don't know if it is a type of fridge-freezer that
you would see in the US Fred. The fridge and freezer
compartments are above each other, both with their
own doors. The cheapest models use a single compressor,
which is controlled by a thermostat in the fridge only.
The fridge is controlled to run at just above 0C and
the freezer compartment runs at 'minus something' just
by circulating air around the coldest part of the coils.

The design suffers from two major faults. The first
one is the one that Terry has recently experienced,
freezer compartment defrosting due to blocked airflow.
The second problem is more subtle.... if you install
such a fridge-freezer in an environment which runs at
lower than about 18C then the freezer compartment can
also warm up. This is because, at 18C ambient, the
fridge, (which is doing the controlling), doesn't run
the compressor enough to keep the freezer compartment
down at it's 'minus something'.

That second problem often occurs with 1-compressor models
kept (say) in an unheated garage, during winter months.

--
Tony Williams. Change "nospam" to "ledelec" to email.

Fred Bloggs wrote:

I assume you are talking about a side-by-side? If you have an ice
machine in the freezer, be sure to turn this OFF until you return to
normal operation.

Fred Bloggs wrote:

I assume you are talking about a side-by-side? If you have an ice
machine in the freezer, be sure to turn this OFF until you return to
normal operation.

Fred Bloggs wrote:


I assume you are talking about a side-by-side? If you have an ice
machine in the freezer, be sure to turn this OFF until you return to
normal operation.

No, the 8571 is a combination unit with fridge on top and freezer
below. Probably obsolete by now; as mentioned, mine is at least 8
years old.

As you've probably seen, all is now well, thanks.

BTW, I don't think integrated ice-makers are found in the majority of
UK combination units.

--
Terry Pinnell
Hobbyist, West Sussex, UK

Fred Bloggs wrote:


I assume you are talking about a side-by-side? If you have an ice
machine in the freezer, be sure to turn this OFF until you return to
normal operation.

No, the 8571 is a combination unit with fridge on top and freezer
below. Probably obsolete by now; as mentioned, mine is at least 8
years old.

As you've probably seen, all is now well, thanks.

BTW, I don't think integrated ice-makers are found in the majority of
UK combination units.

--
Terry Pinnell
Hobbyist, West Sussex, UK

Terry Pinnell wrote in message . ..
Tony Williams wrote:

The freezer compartment is kept cold by a fan circulating
air, from the cold coils behind the inner lining and through
the compartment. If the air circulation is blocked or stopped
then two things start to happen, the cold coils ice up, and
the compartment loses its supply of cold air. The icing-up
itself then reduces the air flow, which causes more icing-up,
and so on. Our fridge-freezer had a solid block of ice
behind the inner lining, from top to bottom.


One thing outstanding: where is the drip pan or whatever it's called?
I just can't remember what happened about the water last time, and
this time the volume has been much smaller. But, as mentioned
previously, I've found nothing I can access to empty anyway.

Hello Terry,
as you have worked out by now this is not a complex engineering
problem (well, the mechanism is, but the cure is simple - and I must
clean my fridge/freezer as well, now its been mentioned). Leaving the
door open was enuff to tip it over the edge - it prcipitated moisture
in the air, probably on top of the thermostat hence the -1 degree
reading.
Frost free fridges dont have drip trays - during the defrost cycle,
the waste water is evaporated to the atmosphere so no problem. What I
would suggest for maintenance is have a loook at the fridge
compartment drain tube - its under the freezing coils in the back,
probably got a simple trough arrangement to feed waste water to it.
This gets blocked and things start to grow in the fridge - usually
behind the 5 year old bottles of (whatever) that live there. Use a
piece of insulated elictrical cable to ream it out. Makes a difference
to efficiency, hygiene, and is "good for the environment" - chant this
as you do a dirty mucky job, makes you feel more socially
responsible....
de VK3BFA Andrew.

Terry Pinnell wrote in message . ..
Tony Williams wrote:

The freezer compartment is kept cold by a fan circulating
air, from the cold coils behind the inner lining and through
the compartment. If the air circulation is blocked or stopped
then two things start to happen, the cold coils ice up, and
the compartment loses its supply of cold air. The icing-up
itself then reduces the air flow, which causes more icing-up,
and so on. Our fridge-freezer had a solid block of ice
behind the inner lining, from top to bottom.


One thing outstanding: where is the drip pan or whatever it's called?
I just can't remember what happened about the water last time, and
this time the volume has been much smaller. But, as mentioned
previously, I've found nothing I can access to empty anyway.

Hello Terry,
as you have worked out by now this is not a complex engineering
problem (well, the mechanism is, but the cure is simple - and I must
clean my fridge/freezer as well, now its been mentioned). Leaving the
door open was enuff to tip it over the edge - it prcipitated moisture
in the air, probably on top of the thermostat hence the -1 degree
reading.
Frost free fridges dont have drip trays - during the defrost cycle,
the waste water is evaporated to the atmosphere so no problem. What I
would suggest for maintenance is have a loook at the fridge
compartment drain tube - its under the freezing coils in the back,
probably got a simple trough arrangement to feed waste water to it.
This gets blocked and things start to grow in the fridge - usually
behind the 5 year old bottles of (whatever) that live there. Use a
piece of insulated elictrical cable to ream it out. Makes a difference
to efficiency, hygiene, and is "good for the environment" - chant this
as you do a dirty mucky job, makes you feel more socially
responsible....
de VK3BFA Andrew.

Tony Williams wrote:
In article ,


I assume you are talking about a side-by-side? If you have an ice
machine in the freezer, be sure to turn this OFF until you
return to normal operation.


I don't know if it is a type of fridge-freezer that
you would see in the US Fred. The fridge and freezer
compartments are above each other, both with their
own doors. The cheapest models use a single compressor,
which is controlled by a thermostat in the fridge only.
The fridge is controlled to run at just above 0C and
the freezer compartment runs at 'minus something' just
by circulating air around the coldest part of the coils.

The design suffers from two major faults. The first
one is the one that Terry has recently experienced,
freezer compartment defrosting due to blocked airflow.
The second problem is more subtle.... if you install
such a fridge-freezer in an environment which runs at
lower than about 18C then the freezer compartment can
also warm up. This is because, at 18C ambient, the
fridge, (which is doing the controlling), doesn't run
the compressor enough to keep the freezer compartment
down at it's 'minus something'.

That second problem often occurs with 1-compressor models
kept (say) in an unheated garage, during winter months.


Right- that type of machine is called a top-mount in the U.S. There are
actually such things as bottom mount, freezer vertically below the
"fresh food" compartment, the theory being that you bend down less
frequently to retrieve food from the freezer than the fresh food
compartment. As for temperature regulation, the industry standard is a
-10oF evaporator temperature, this is the design saturation liquid/vapor
point which I'm sure holds true in Europe as well. The efficiency of low
temperature compressor designs drops off exponentially with low pressure
so that you will find a 1/4 HP compressor barely achieving 800BTU/HR
rating at low temp where the same HP may hit several thousand BTU/HR in
a medium temp application, such as a simple beveridge cooler, with +20oF
evaporator temperature. In the standard top mount situation, it is the
air temperature in the fresh food compartment that is regulated, and the
freezer temperature control is usually tied to a vane which sets the
proportion of air between the freezer and fresh food compartments. At
colder freezer temp setting more air is circulated within freezer etc.
You will find that you have quite a complicated little styrofoam
airchannel arrangement beneath the plastic partition separating the
fresh food and freezer compartments, and that is why you have to use a
heat gun cautiously when you do a forced defrost as this channel is
easily melted:-) In this particular case, because the model is
GE/HOTPOINT, the compressor design is most likely their infamously
short-lived rotary with powdered metal parts- this means that unless TP
finds a hard failure such as completely iced evaporator, non functioning
condenser fan, or condenser coil completely blanketed with debris, then
one of two things is occurring: 1)compressor has lost recovery capacity
and should be replaced, or 2) initial refrigerant charge contained too
much H2O which has been forced from the filter/dryer by the excess heat
and is now freezing and blocking the evaporator refrigerant capillary
feed. In case 2), it may return to normal in time under light loading,
allowing the dryer to re-absorb the water.

Tony Williams wrote:
In article ,


I assume you are talking about a side-by-side? If you have an ice
machine in the freezer, be sure to turn this OFF until you
return to normal operation.


I don't know if it is a type of fridge-freezer that
you would see in the US Fred. The fridge and freezer
compartments are above each other, both with their
own doors. The cheapest models use a single compressor,
which is controlled by a thermostat in the fridge only.
The fridge is controlled to run at just above 0C and
the freezer compartment runs at 'minus something' just
by circulating air around the coldest part of the coils.

The design suffers from two major faults. The first
one is the one that Terry has recently experienced,
freezer compartment defrosting due to blocked airflow.
The second problem is more subtle.... if you install
such a fridge-freezer in an environment which runs at
lower than about 18C then the freezer compartment can
also warm up. This is because, at 18C ambient, the
fridge, (which is doing the controlling), doesn't run
the compressor enough to keep the freezer compartment
down at it's 'minus something'.

That second problem often occurs with 1-compressor models
kept (say) in an unheated garage, during winter months.


Right- that type of machine is called a top-mount in the U.S. There are
actually such things as bottom mount, freezer vertically below the
"fresh food" compartment, the theory being that you bend down less
frequently to retrieve food from the freezer than the fresh food
compartment. As for temperature regulation, the industry standard is a
-10oF evaporator temperature, this is the design saturation liquid/vapor
point which I'm sure holds true in Europe as well. The efficiency of low
temperature compressor designs drops off exponentially with low pressure
so that you will find a 1/4 HP compressor barely achieving 800BTU/HR
rating at low temp where the same HP may hit several thousand BTU/HR in
a medium temp application, such as a simple beveridge cooler, with +20oF
evaporator temperature. In the standard top mount situation, it is the
air temperature in the fresh food compartment that is regulated, and the
freezer temperature control is usually tied to a vane which sets the
proportion of air between the freezer and fresh food compartments. At
colder freezer temp setting more air is circulated within freezer etc.
You will find that you have quite a complicated little styrofoam
airchannel arrangement beneath the plastic partition separating the
fresh food and freezer compartments, and that is why you have to use a
heat gun cautiously when you do a forced defrost as this channel is
easily melted:-) In this particular case, because the model is
GE/HOTPOINT, the compressor design is most likely their infamously
short-lived rotary with powdered metal parts- this means that unless TP
finds a hard failure such as completely iced evaporator, non functioning
condenser fan, or condenser coil completely blanketed with debris, then
one of two things is occurring: 1)compressor has lost recovery capacity
and should be replaced, or 2) initial refrigerant charge contained too
much H2O which has been forced from the filter/dryer by the excess heat
and is now freezing and blocking the evaporator refrigerant capillary
feed. In case 2), it may return to normal in time under light loading,
allowing the dryer to re-absorb the water.

Terry Pinnell wrote:
Fred Bloggs wrote:



I assume you are talking about a side-by-side? If you have an ice
machine in the freezer, be sure to turn this OFF until you return to
normal operation.


No, the 8571 is a combination unit with fridge on top and freezer
below. Probably obsolete by now; as mentioned, mine is at least 8
years old.

As you've probably seen, all is now well, thanks.

BTW, I don't think integrated ice-makers are found in the majority of
UK combination units.


Well- let's see if all is well- you have the means to make a scientific
determination. You will need a wattmeter and hour run meter. The steady
state run power should be something like 300W or less, and the long term
average duty will be below 30%. Check Bob Pease's site at NS for a great
wattmeter design:-)