I am trying to solder some RG-6 shield to a pcb. The braid won't tin. It's
almost like it's dissipating the heat faster than I can apply it. With both a
temp-controlled iron (set as high as 700F) and a mondo 100W stick I finally
tried. The solder will barely melt when touched to the braid opposite the
iron.

I've applied some Kester rosin paste flux as well using my trusty Kester
60/40 lead-based rosin core solder. No joy. I'm not holding the braid against
the PCB now, I'm just trying to tin the braid and then deal with melting the
2 solders (on the PCB and the braid) together later.

My first attempt--before I realized that I was overheating it--I melted the
dielectric insulation.

The mesh is made from some silver-colored braid which I thought is tinned
copper but now I'm of the opinion that it's steel; it's certainly not
aluminum. There is also foil which is probably aluminum but I've trimmed that
back and it's not part of this frustrating process right now.

What's the trick to getting this braid to take solder? I've never seen this
before.

Thanks.

On Sat, 18 Jan 2014 20:22:18 -0800, the renowned Bob E.
wrote:

I am trying to solder some RG-6 shield to a pcb. The braid won't tin. It's
almost like it's dissipating the heat faster than I can apply it. With both a
temp-controlled iron (set as high as 700F) and a mondo 100W stick I finally
tried. The solder will barely melt when touched to the braid opposite the
iron.

I've applied some Kester rosin paste flux as well using my trusty Kester
60/40 lead-based rosin core solder. No joy. I'm not holding the braid against
the PCB now, I'm just trying to tin the braid and then deal with melting the
2 solders (on the PCB and the braid) together later.

My first attempt--before I realized that I was overheating it--I melted the
dielectric insulation.

The mesh is made from some silver-colored braid which I thought is tinned
copper but now I'm of the opinion that it's steel; it's certainly not
aluminum. There is also foil which is probably aluminum but I've trimmed that
back and it's not part of this frustrating process right now.

What's the trick to getting this braid to take solder? I've never seen this
before.

Thanks.

If it's like this cr*p they sell at Home Despot, it's copper clad
steel core with an _aluminum_ braid shield:-

http://www.cerrowire.com/files/file/..._6U_QUADLR.pdf

That would explain the copper-like heat conduction that you're
observing.

I suppose you could try an aluminum flux, but can't you just unravel
and gather enough of the shield to crimp into a ring terminal or
something?



Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com

Yes it's that crap.

I suppose you could try an aluminum flux, but can't you just unravel
and gather enough of the shield to crimp into a ring terminal or
something?

Yeah, that's my next move. I just couldn't believe that something couldn't be
soldered. I guess REALLY agressive flux is required, as you say.

When it comes to broadcast TV I try to solder every connection possible.
Every crimp is one more dB lost.

Thanks.

Crimps in hand...

On Sat, 18 Jan 2014 20:50:34 -0800, the renowned Bob E.
wrote:

Yes it's that crap.

I suppose you could try an aluminum flux, but can't you just unravel
and gather enough of the shield to crimp into a ring terminal or
something?

Yeah, that's my next move. I just couldn't believe that something couldn't be
soldered. I guess REALLY agressive flux is required, as you say.

When it comes to broadcast TV I try to solder every connection possible.
Every crimp is one more dB lost.

Thanks.

Crimps in hand...

I guess there's always better stuff like this:-

http://nordencommunication.com/downl...1460-RG_6u.pdf



Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com

"Bob E." wrote:

Yes it's that crap.

I suppose you could try an aluminum flux, but can't you just unravel
and gather enough of the shield to crimp into a ring terminal or
something?

Yeah, that's my next move. I just couldn't believe that something couldn't be
soldered. I guess REALLY agressive flux is required, as you say.

When it comes to broadcast TV I try to solder every connection possible.
Every crimp is one more dB lost.


You must do lousy crimping, if you lose a dB.

--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

Michael A. Terrell scribbled thus:


"Bob E." wrote:

Yes it's that crap.

I suppose you could try an aluminum flux, but can't you just
unravel and gather enough of the shield to crimp into a ring
terminal or something?

Yeah, that's my next move. I just couldn't believe that something
couldn't be soldered. I guess REALLY agressive flux is required, as
you say.

When it comes to broadcast TV I try to solder every connection
possible. Every crimp is one more dB lost.


You must do lousy crimping, if you lose a dB.


I agree ! A good crimp is at least as good as the best solder joint.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

On 01/18/2014 10:50 PM, Bob E. wrote:
Yes it's that crap.

I suppose you could try an aluminum flux, but can't you just unravel
and gather enough of the shield to crimp into a ring terminal or
something?

Yeah, that's my next move. I just couldn't believe that something couldn't be
soldered. I guess REALLY agressive flux is required, as you say.

When it comes to broadcast TV I try to solder every connection possible.
Every crimp is one more dB lost.

Thanks.

Crimps in hand...

I would have thought every soldered joint is one more reflection.

When it comes to broadcast TV I try to solder every connection possible.
Every crimp is one more dB lost.

I'm no RF expert, just my impression--possibly mistaken.

Thanks.

"Bob E." wrote:

When it comes to broadcast TV I try to solder every connection possible.
Every crimp is one more dB lost.

I'm no RF expert, just my impression--possibly mistaken.


The loss should be under .1 dB for a good F connector, ant they are
used into the GHz range.


--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

On Sat, 18 Jan 2014 20:50:34 -0800, Bob E. wrote:

When it comes to broadcast TV I try to solder every connection possible.
Every crimp is one more dB lost.

100% of the RF connectors I use for mountain top radio sites that I
deal with are crimped, not soldered. Well, maybe a few soldered
abominations such as PL-259 connectors.

The losses per connector are quite low. For example, here's a string
of random adapters:
http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/antennas/connector-loss/slides/Adapter%20Colluge.html
http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/antennas/connector-loss/
That's about 15 assorted adapters (30 connections) showing 2dB loss at
2.4 GHz or:
2dB / 30 = 0.07 dB loss per connection.
Unless you're working with high power levels, the connector loss is
not a problem.

Unless you're working with microwave frequencies, mismatch loss is
also not much of a problem. For example, if you insert a section of
75 ohm coaxial cable into your system, a TDR would certainly show an
impedance bump far larger than what might be produced by a solder
blob. However, the losses are fairly trivial. Much depends on the
frequency of operation. If you're doing microwave, then precision is
required. If you're doing lower frequencies, you can be fairly sloppy
and things will still work quite well.

Cut-n-pasted from my previous rant on the topic from
rec.radio.amateur.antenna.

Let's pretend that I mix in a 75 ohm coax connector into a
50 ohm system. Depending on the location of this "impedance bump",
the VSWR is no more than 1.5:1 which is generally considered marginal.
That's 0.18dB of mismatch loss.
http://www.microwaves101.com/encyclopedia/calvswr.cfm
If you're doing satellite or microwave DX work, then 0.18dB might be
important. However, for most other applications, it's a trivial
amount.

You might be amused to know that most of my rooftop antennas are fed
with 75 ohm coax and that my favored antenna designs are also 75 ohm.
There are various reasons, but the main one is that coax cable losses
are less at 75 ohms, than at 50 ohms. 50 ohms can handle more power,
but 75 ohms has less loss.
http://www.belden.com/blog/broadcastav/50-Ohms-The-Forgotten-Impedance.cfm
The only problems I have with 75 ohms is finding the proper connectors
and dealing with the pads needed to make my 50 ohm test equipment look
like 75 ohms. (Actually the real reason is that the 75 ohm stuff is
mostly CATV surplus, which tends to be really cheap).

Mo
http://www.qsl.net/n9zia/wireless/75_ohm_hardline.html

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

100% of the RF connectors I use for mountain top radio sites that I
deal with are crimped, not soldered.

This is where the original short length of RG6 was soldered to the pcb
antenna. It's an inexpensive broadcast TV antenna for home.

Rather than make a male crimp plus a barrel to join the 2 mailes, just solder
the long run directly to the pcb. Or so I thought...

I crimped 1/2" of center solid conductor to the braid and soldered the solid
to the pcb. It seems to work but I have no way to measure any loss. I plan to
replace this when I find some REAL copper RG6.

Thanks.

On Sun, 19 Jan 2014 16:01:53 -0800, Bob E. wrote:

100% of the RF connectors I use for mountain top radio sites that I
deal with are crimped, not soldered.

This is where the original short length of RG6 was soldered to the pcb
antenna. It's an inexpensive broadcast TV antenna for home.

Thank you for disclosing what you're trying to accomplish. Context is
always important.

You're going to have corrosion problems. Note that all the
aforementioned crimped connectors have the crimped area sealed inside
the connector. In addition, they are usually wrapped in some form of
waterproofing (i.e. PTFE tape and electrical tape) to keep out the
water. Even if you solder the connections, the capillary action is
going to force the water up the braid and under the jacket. Depending
on the outer jacket slop, corrosion will rot up to several inches of
braid. You can try to seal the braid and solder connections with RTV
silicon rubber that doesn't contain acetic acid but I haven't had much
luck with that.

Using bare wires from the end of a coax cable is about as bad an
impedance bump as you can possibly create. However, it won't matter
for a TV antenna, that has wide bandwidth, but relatively little gain.
PCB TV antennas tend to be rather small, and therefore have even less
gain. Impedance discontinuities will not have a huge effect on
overall performance. Therefore, you can probably just attach some
spade lugs onto the ends of the RG-6/u coax, and use ordinary brass
screws and nuts to make the connection.

Rather than make a male crimp plus a barrel to join the 2 mailes, just solder
the long run directly to the pcb. Or so I thought...

I crimped 1/2" of center solid conductor to the braid and soldered the solid
to the pcb. It seems to work but I have no way to measure any loss. I plan to
replace this when I find some REAL copper RG6.

If you have a PCB, why not use a PCB mounted F connector?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111244951312
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261373960762

I tried to find such a coax cable from my distant past. It had a
copper clad steel center conductor, aluminum foil shield, and a very
loose braid of flash galvanized steel wire braid over the shield. The
braid was only for strength and not for shielding. The zinc plating
was for galvanic compatibility with the aluminum shield. Such a cable
was not intended to be soldered, only crimped. I saw it at STV
(subscription TV) in Smog Angeles in the 1960's. However, I couldn't
find it which suggests that it's either uncommon, not in current
production, or my memory is faulty.

It would be helpful if you could provide any markings on your cable so
that it can be identified.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

"Bob E." wrote:

100% of the RF connectors I use for mountain top radio sites that I
deal with are crimped, not soldered.

This is where the original short length of RG6 was soldered to the pcb
antenna. It's an inexpensive broadcast TV antenna for home.

Rather than make a male crimp plus a barrel to join the 2 mailes, just solder
the long run directly to the pcb. Or so I thought...

I crimped 1/2" of center solid conductor to the braid and soldered the solid
to the pcb. It seems to work but I have no way to measure any loss. I plan to
replace this when I find some REAL copper RG6.


The loss is horrible in copper braided coax at TV frequencies. The
cost is excessive, as well. 'Headend cable' used to be silver plated
copper braided coax, but that was abandoned for foil & drain when
headends passed 216 MHz. That silver plated coax was over a dollar a
foot, in the '70s.


--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

"Spehro Pefhany" wrote in message
...

If it's like this cr*p they sell at Home Despot, it's copper-
clad steel core with an _aluminum_ braid shield.

Aluminum is a poor choice for a crimped connection. Remember the problems with
household aluminum wiring -- even when it was screwed down?

"Bob E." wrote:

I am trying to solder some RG-6 shield to a pcb. The braid won't tin. It's
almost like it's dissipating the heat faster than I can apply it. With both a
temp-controlled iron (set as high as 700F) and a mondo 100W stick I finally
tried. The solder will barely melt when touched to the braid opposite the
iron.

I've applied some Kester rosin paste flux as well using my trusty Kester
60/40 lead-based rosin core solder. No joy. I'm not holding the braid against
the PCB now, I'm just trying to tin the braid and then deal with melting the
2 solders (on the PCB and the braid) together later.

My first attempt--before I realized that I was overheating it--I melted the
dielectric insulation.

The mesh is made from some silver-colored braid which I thought is tinned
copper but now I'm of the opinion that it's steel; it's certainly not
aluminum. There is also foil which is probably aluminum but I've trimmed that
back and it's not part of this frustrating process right now.

What's the trick to getting this braid to take solder? I've never seen this
before.

It's not made to be soldered. It's CATV cable that's made for crimp
on 'F' fittings.

--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

"Bob E."


The mesh is made from some silver-colored braid which I thought is tinned
copper but now I'm of the opinion that it's steel; it's certainly not
aluminum.

** A magnet will pick up steel wire - but no Aluminium.


What's the trick to getting this braid to take solder?


** Unplated steel or Aluminium wires are not solderable by ordinary means.




..... Phil

On 1/18/2014 11:22 PM, Bob E. wrote:
I am trying to solder some RG-6 shield to a pcb. The braid won't tin. It's
almost like it's dissipating the heat faster than I can apply it. With both a
temp-controlled iron (set as high as 700F) and a mondo 100W stick I finally
tried. The solder will barely melt when touched to the braid opposite the
iron.

I've applied some Kester rosin paste flux as well using my trusty Kester
60/40 lead-based rosin core solder. No joy. I'm not holding the braid against
the PCB now, I'm just trying to tin the braid and then deal with melting the
2 solders (on the PCB and the braid) together later.

My first attempt--before I realized that I was overheating it--I melted the
dielectric insulation.

The mesh is made from some silver-colored braid which I thought is tinned
copper but now I'm of the opinion that it's steel; it's certainly not
aluminum. There is also foil which is probably aluminum but I've trimmed that
back and it's not part of this frustrating process right now.

What's the trick to getting this braid to take solder? I've never seen this
before.

Thanks.

Twist the braid into a wire and butt splice on a copper wire. Heat
shrink over it.

On Sat, 18 Jan 2014 20:22:18 -0800, Bob E.
wrote:

I am trying to solder some RG-6 shield to a pcb. The braid won't tin. It's
almost like it's dissipating the heat faster than I can apply it. With both a
temp-controlled iron (set as high as 700F) and a mondo 100W stick I finally
tried. The solder will barely melt when touched to the braid opposite the
iron.

I've applied some Kester rosin paste flux as well using my trusty Kester
60/40 lead-based rosin core solder. No joy. I'm not holding the braid against
the PCB now, I'm just trying to tin the braid and then deal with melting the
2 solders (on the PCB and the braid) together later.

My first attempt--before I realized that I was overheating it--I melted the
dielectric insulation.

The mesh is made from some silver-colored braid which I thought is tinned
copper but now I'm of the opinion that it's steel; it's certainly not
aluminum. There is also foil which is probably aluminum but I've trimmed that
back and it's not part of this frustrating process right now.

What's the trick to getting this braid to take solder? I've never seen this
before.

Thanks.

---
Use crimp ferrules.

http://www.te.com/catalog/feat/en/c/10028

11.5 at:

http://snebulos.mit.edu/projects/ref...STD-8739-4.pdf

JF

On 2014-01-19, Bob E wrote:
I am trying to solder some RG-6 shield to a pcb.

The mesh is made from some silver-colored braid which I thought is tinned
copper but now I'm of the opinion that it's steel; it's certainly not
aluminum. There is also foil which is probably aluminum but I've trimmed that
back and it's not part of this frustrating process right now.

yeah stainless steel braid, aluminium shield and a copper-plated steel
core. most of the RG6 I've used is like that.

a solderable F connector socket is probably the best way to terminate it.

What's the trick to getting this braid to take solder?

Give up! If you can't give up spot weld it to some tinned copper.

--
For a good time: install ntp

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

On 19/01/2014 04:22, Bob E. wrote:
I am trying to solder some RG-6 shield to a pcb. The braid won't tin. It's
almost like it's dissipating the heat faster than I can apply it. With both a
temp-controlled iron (set as high as 700F) and a mondo 100W stick I finally
tried. The solder will barely melt when touched to the braid opposite the
iron.

I've applied some Kester rosin paste flux as well using my trusty Kester
60/40 lead-based rosin core solder. No joy. I'm not holding the braid against
the PCB now, I'm just trying to tin the braid and then deal with melting the
2 solders (on the PCB and the braid) together later.

My first attempt--before I realized that I was overheating it--I melted the
dielectric insulation.

The mesh is made from some silver-colored braid which I thought is tinned
copper but now I'm of the opinion that it's steel; it's certainly not
aluminum. There is also foil which is probably aluminum but I've trimmed that
back and it's not part of this frustrating process right now.

What's the trick to getting this braid to take solder? I've never seen this
before.

Thanks.

If it's for personal use, tightly wrap a dozen turns of tinned copper
wire (or silver plated) around the braid, twist the end together and
solder to these.

Cheers
--
Syd

In article ,
says...

I am trying to solder some RG-6 shield to a pcb. The braid won't tin. It's
almost like it's dissipating the heat faster than I can apply it. With both a
temp-controlled iron (set as high as 700F) and a mondo 100W stick I finally
tried. The solder will barely melt when touched to the braid opposite the
iron.

I've applied some Kester rosin paste flux as well using my trusty Kester
60/40 lead-based rosin core solder. No joy. I'm not holding the braid against
the PCB now, I'm just trying to tin the braid and then deal with melting the
2 solders (on the PCB and the braid) together later.

My first attempt--before I realized that I was overheating it--I melted the
dielectric insulation.

The mesh is made from some silver-colored braid which I thought is tinned
copper but now I'm of the opinion that it's steel; it's certainly not
aluminum. There is also foil which is probably aluminum but I've trimmed that
back and it's not part of this frustrating process right now.

What's the trick to getting this braid to take solder? I've never seen this
before.

Thanks.

Electroplated wire, most likely nickel.

Jamie

"Maynard A. Philbrook Jerkoff."

Electroplated wire, most likely nickel.



** But nickel plated stuff solders beautifully.

Jack plugs and sockets, DC plugs etc.


..... Phil

"Phil Allison" wrote in message
...
Electroplated wire, most likely nickel.

** But nickel plated stuff solders beautifully.

Jack plugs and sockets, DC plugs etc.

I have some mil spec, high-temp wire that's nickel plated. Beautiful
stuff, strands wound in layers. It takes an unusually high temperature
and a long time before the solder wets and soaks into it. It does tin,
but I wouldn't say it solders "beautifully", not with ordinary fluxes.

Tim

--
Seven Transistor Labs
Electrical Engineering Consultation
Website: http://seventransistorlabs.com

"Tim Williams - ****** & TROLL"



** But nickel plated stuff solders beautifully.

Jack plugs and sockets, DC plugs etc.

I have some mil spec, high-temp wire that's nickel plated.


** Yaaaawnnnnnnnnnnnnnn....

You have a monstrous, AUTISTIC brain too.............



It takes an unusually high temperature and a long time before the solder
wets and soaks into it. It does tin, but I wouldn't say it solders
"beautifully", not with ordinary fluxes.


** Watch:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=73R7eXxjo34

Pure nickel, plated onto brass.

Solders like a dream.

**** knows what ****ing **** you have.

Asshole .



.... Phil

On 20/01/2014 7:38 PM, Phil Allison wrote:
"Tim Williams - ****** & TROLL"



Was I the only one to see this predictable response coming & get a
giggle out of it?

On 20/01/2014 6:18 PM, Tim Williams wrote:
"Phil Allison" wrote in message
...
Electroplated wire, most likely nickel.

** But nickel plated stuff solders beautifully.

Jack plugs and sockets, DC plugs etc.

I have some mil spec, high-temp wire that's nickel plated. Beautiful
stuff, strands wound in layers. It takes an unusually high temperature
and a long time before the solder wets and soaks into it. It does tin,
but I wouldn't say it solders "beautifully", not with ordinary fluxes.

Tim


Interesting table:

http://www.efunda.com/materials/sold...derability.cfm

"Kennedy"

Interesting table:

http://www.efunda.com/materials/sold...derability.cfm


** Shame it is quite wrong.

As anyone with REAL experience of soldering knows.

What is your experience ?

Other than child molesting, that is.

On 01/20/2014 02:18 AM, Tim Williams wrote:
"Phil Allison" wrote in message
...
Electroplated wire, most likely nickel.

** But nickel plated stuff solders beautifully.

Jack plugs and sockets, DC plugs etc.

I have some mil spec, high-temp wire that's nickel plated. Beautiful
stuff, strands wound in layers. It takes an unusually high temperature
and a long time before the solder wets and soaks into it. It does tin,
but I wouldn't say it solders "beautifully", not with ordinary fluxes.

Tim


I have a Hakko station with 50 Watts max power. I also have a Weller
150W gun. And an old Radio-Shack Ungar 45 W for the occasional
emergency. There are situations where The Weller gun comes in handy,
when the other 2 don't get hot enough. Failing all 3, we have the trusty
Bernz-O-Matic.

On 20/01/2014 10:18, Tim Williams wrote:
"Phil Allison" wrote in message
...
Electroplated wire, most likely nickel.

** But nickel plated stuff solders beautifully.

Jack plugs and sockets, DC plugs etc.

I have some mil spec, high-temp wire that's nickel plated. Beautiful
stuff, strands wound in layers. It takes an unusually high temperature
and a long time before the solder wets and soaks into it. It does tin,
but I wouldn't say it solders "beautifully", not with ordinary fluxes.

Tim

I have some Nickel plated copper wire - single core - which I bought
believing it to be tinned copper. It doesn't wet well with my ancient
'non corrosive flux' Multicore 60/40.

A touch of flux and it solders beautifully.

Cheers
--
Syd

Well, what does it feel like?

Steel wire feels very stiff. Grab a leaded component out of the box and
ponder the leads; they're probably tin plated steel (check with a magnet).
Most resistors, capacitors and diodes are. Some smaller ceramic caps have
thicker, softer copper leads; find some if you can.

Aluminum wire is very soft, floppy stuff. It is much softer than copper,
than copper is of steel. If that's what it is... oh well.

As for soldering practice... the old saw about "apply solder to the
opposite side of the joint" is complete BS. Forget about it. Don't try
soldering as you were told, make the solder happy and good joints will
follow. First goal, get the part hot: hold the iron on the part, and
apply solder right beside the iron, or to it, so the iron heats and wets
what it's touching. On a braid, solder will spread and soon the joint
will accept solder from all sides.

Tim

--
Seven Transistor Labs
Electrical Engineering Consultation
Website: http://seventransistorlabs.com

"Bob E." wrote in message
...
I am trying to solder some RG-6 shield to a pcb. The braid won't tin.
It's
almost like it's dissipating the heat faster than I can apply it. With
both a
temp-controlled iron (set as high as 700F) and a mondo 100W stick I
finally
tried. The solder will barely melt when touched to the braid opposite
the
iron.

I've applied some Kester rosin paste flux as well using my trusty Kester
60/40 lead-based rosin core solder. No joy. I'm not holding the braid
against
the PCB now, I'm just trying to tin the braid and then deal with melting
the
2 solders (on the PCB and the braid) together later.

My first attempt--before I realized that I was overheating it--I melted
the
dielectric insulation.

The mesh is made from some silver-colored braid which I thought is
tinned
copper but now I'm of the opinion that it's steel; it's certainly not
aluminum. There is also foil which is probably aluminum but I've trimmed
that
back and it's not part of this frustrating process right now.

What's the trick to getting this braid to take solder? I've never seen
this
before.

Thanks.

On 01/18/2014 08:22 PM, Bob E. wrote:
I am trying to solder some RG-6 shield to a pcb. The braid won't tin. It's
almost like it's dissipating the heat faster than I can apply it. With both a
temp-controlled iron (set as high as 700F) and a mondo 100W stick I finally
tried. The solder will barely melt when touched to the braid opposite the
iron.

I've applied some Kester rosin paste flux as well using my trusty Kester
60/40 lead-based rosin core solder. No joy. I'm not holding the braid against
the PCB now, I'm just trying to tin the braid and then deal with melting the
2 solders (on the PCB and the braid) together later.

My first attempt--before I realized that I was overheating it--I melted the
dielectric insulation.

The mesh is made from some silver-colored braid which I thought is tinned
copper but now I'm of the opinion that it's steel; it's certainly not
aluminum. There is also foil which is probably aluminum but I've trimmed that
back and it's not part of this frustrating process right now.

What's the trick to getting this braid to take solder? I've never seen this
before.

Thanks.


A solder pot is preferred. Otherwise burn all the non-metallic weirdness
away with your trusty Zippo.

Bob E. writes:

I am trying to solder some RG-6 shield to a pcb. The braid won't tin. It's
almost like it's dissipating the heat faster than I can apply it. With both a
temp-controlled iron (set as high as 700F) and a mondo 100W stick I finally
tried. The solder will barely melt when touched to the braid opposite the
iron.

That just sounds like another excuse to the use the butane torch

Steve wrote :
Bob E. writes:

I am trying to solder some RG-6 shield to a pcb. The braid won't tin. It's
almost like it's dissipating the heat faster than I can apply it. With both
a temp-controlled iron (set as high as 700F) and a mondo 100W stick I
finally tried. The solder will barely melt when touched to the braid
opposite the iron.

That just sounds like another excuse to the use the butane torch

Steel, ment to be clamped not soldered?

--
John G Sydney.

"Steve" wrote in message
...
Bob E. writes:

I am trying to solder some RG-6 shield to a pcb. The braid won't tin.
It's
almost like it's dissipating the heat faster than I can apply it. With
both a
temp-controlled iron (set as high as 700F) and a mondo 100W stick I
finally
tried. The solder will barely melt when touched to the braid opposite
the
iron.

That just sounds like another excuse to the use the butane torch


Most of the rg-6 uses aluminum instead of copper or tinned copper. The
normal methods of soldering will not work on it.

Ralph Mowery expressed precisely :
"Steve" wrote in message
...
Bob E. writes:

I am trying to solder some RG-6 shield to a pcb. The braid won't tin.
It's
almost like it's dissipating the heat faster than I can apply it. With
both a
temp-controlled iron (set as high as 700F) and a mondo 100W stick I
finally
tried. The solder will barely melt when touched to the braid opposite the
iron.

That just sounds like another excuse to the use the butane torch


Most of the rg-6 uses aluminum instead of copper or tinned copper. The
normal methods of soldering will not work on it.

I'll believe Aluminium or steel I must admit to only a little actual
experience.
Some Cable guy should give an actual answer.

--
John G Sydney.

John G wrote:

Ralph Mowery expressed precisely :
"Steve" wrote in message
...
Bob E. writes:

I am trying to solder some RG-6 shield to a pcb. The braid won't tin.
It's
almost like it's dissipating the heat faster than I can apply it. With
both a
temp-controlled iron (set as high as 700F) and a mondo 100W stick I
finally
tried. The solder will barely melt when touched to the braid opposite the
iron.

That just sounds like another excuse to the use the butane torch


Most of the rg-6 uses aluminum instead of copper or tinned copper. The
normal methods of soldering will not work on it.

I'll believe Aluminium or steel I must admit to only a little actual
experience.
Some Cable guy should give an actual answer.


The original RG6 used a copper center conductor, and a copper braid over
a stiff, solid insulator. It was barely useful for video. The RG6/U used
for CATV has a copper plated steel center conductor, foam inner
insulator and aluminum foil covered by aluminum drain wires. If it is to
be used overhead, it has a separate stainless steel 'messenger' wire
with a Siamese outer jacket over both the coax and the messenger
strand. I worked in CATV, and used to see 50,000 feet of it come in at
a time. The best way to be sure is see who made the cable in question,
and look up the OEM's specifications for that exact type of cable.

We used Belden, Commscope, and other American made brands back in the
mid '80s.

On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 20:51:23 -0500, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

John G wrote:

Ralph Mowery expressed precisely :
"Steve" wrote in message
...
Bob E. writes:

I am trying to solder some RG-6 shield to a pcb. The braid won't
tin. It's almost like it's dissipating the heat faster than I can
apply it. With both a temp-controlled iron (set as high as 700F)
and a mondo 100W stick I finally tried. The solder will barely
melt when touched to the braid opposite the iron.

That just sounds like another excuse to the use the butane torch


Most of the rg-6 uses aluminum instead of copper or tinned copper.
The normal methods of soldering will not work on it.

I'll believe Aluminium or steel I must admit to only a little actual
experience.
Some Cable guy should give an actual answer.


The original RG6 used a copper center conductor, and a copper braid over
a stiff, solid insulator. It was barely useful for video. The RG6/U used
for CATV has a copper plated steel center conductor, foam inner
insulator and aluminum foil covered by aluminum drain wires. If it is to
be used overhead, it has a separate stainless steel 'messenger' wire
with a Siamese outer jacket over both the coax and the messenger strand.
I worked in CATV, and used to see 50,000 feet of it come in at a time.
The best way to be sure is see who made the cable in question, and look
up the OEM's specifications for that exact type of cable.

We used Belden, Commscope, and other American made brands back in the
mid '80s.

He got most of it right.

As a former installer of a dual system (Cube) (Time/Warner)(Warner/
Amex)We had dual 'siamesed' cables and those used for "drops" had the
messenger strand.

However, ALL of it, indoor, outdoor, drop lines, and UG (underground)
ALL had a braided tin plated copper braid over the foil layers. The foam
core had a laminated immobile foil affixed to it, and then there was foil
and braid over that. I know because foil tears and braid does not, and
the fittings used in the industry get crimped on, and foil alone will not
endure those stresses over time, if not fail immediately.

But RG-6 can be bought in many different configurations. It is more
about the form factor and physical size and characteristic impedance.
RG-59 was the same impedance but slightly smaller but had a higher
capacitance per foot and could not be used on longer runs, whereas the RG-6
could perform over greater distances Mainly due to a thicker core to
shield spacing making for a lower parasitic capacitance per foot.

On 2/21/2016 6:06 PM, John G wrote:
Ralph Mowery expressed precisely :
"Steve" wrote in message
...
Bob E. writes:

I am trying to solder some RG-6 shield to a pcb. The braid won't
tin. It's
almost like it's dissipating the heat faster than I can apply it.
With both a
temp-controlled iron (set as high as 700F) and a mondo 100W stick I
finally
tried. The solder will barely melt when touched to the braid
opposite the
iron.

That just sounds like another excuse to the use the butane torch


Most of the rg-6 uses aluminum instead of copper or tinned copper.
The normal methods of soldering will not work on it.

I'll believe Aluminium or steel I must admit to only a little actual
experience.
Some Cable guy should give an actual answer.

The stuff I use has both copper center conductor and braid. Most RG-6
uses a steel center conductor with a copper plating since the skin
effect limits current flow to the surface at high frequencies and the
steel provides more strength for pulling and aerial runs.

--

Rick

On Mon, 22 Feb 2016 14:12:31 -0500, rickman wrote:

The stuff I use has both copper center conductor and braid. Most RG-6
uses a steel center conductor with a copper plating since the skin
effect limits current flow to the surface at high frequencies and the
steel provides more strength for pulling and aerial runs.

Nope. Copper plating is too thin. It is referred to as "copper clad".

Same thing for ground rods, except the reason in that case is abrasion
durability.

Goddamned cross-posting retards.

In article ,
John G writes:
Ralph Mowery expressed precisely :
"Steve" wrote in message
...
Bob E. writes:

I am trying to solder some RG-6 shield to a pcb. The braid won't tin.
It's
almost like it's dissipating the heat faster than I can apply it. With
both a
temp-controlled iron (set as high as 700F) and a mondo 100W stick I
finally
tried. The solder will barely melt when touched to the braid opposite the
iron.

That just sounds like another excuse to the use the butane torch


Most of the rg-6 uses aluminum instead of copper or tinned copper. The
normal methods of soldering will not work on it.

I'll believe Aluminium or steel I must admit to only a little actual
experience.
Some Cable guy should give an actual answer.

Ordinary soldering can be used with iron - soldering iron bits are
often copper core for thermal capacity and conduction, with iron
plating which wets well with solder but doesn't oxidise/corrode
as quickly as a bare copper bit does.

As you go to steel and then stainless steal, it gets harder to do.
Stainless steal in particular is protected from corrosion by a very
tough layer of chromium oxide (I don't know if it's possible to
solder stainless steel at all).

Aluminium has a similar problem - a very tough layer of aluminum
oxide which needs a suitable flux to strip through. However, it also
needs a different solder alloy to wet it - it's a long time since I
did it but ISTR using a solder alloy containing silver.

A secondary problem with soldering dissimilar metals is that any
moisture risks causing galvantic action/corrosion of the join, and
in the case of aluminium, this happens even between the aluminium
and the solder used. Selecting a flux which can strip the aluminimum
oxide well whilst not leaving any residue which eventually corrodes
the join is a bit of a challenge.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]