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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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Posted to alt.home.repair,sci.electronics.repair,alt.security.alarms
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On Mon, 25 Nov 2013 21:02:38 -0500, tm wrote:
You should peel off the double sided tape on the LV Disconnect board and see if any track has been damaged. Thanks for that advice. The sticky tape was covering the traces: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7345/1...7bb08f86_o.gif So, following your advice, I peeled it mostly off, and looked with a magnifying glass as you had suggested: http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5474/1...1b250d61_o.gif The 1,000uF 35V capacitor leads are burnt a bit, but, it could have been a replacement cap for all I know, as the cap is not shorted nor is it an open (it's about 350 ohms steady). http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7450/1...5e7abf80_o.gif However, the fact is that this sequence shows *something* is wrong with that D135A battery-protection board: 1. The battery is 13.31V http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3780/1...16f7c34e_o.gif 2. Connecting this way is 13.31V: http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3772/1...beeeeed8_o.gif 3. But, connecting this way is 0V: http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3786/1...e6cba24f_o.gif |
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