Remove the dust hopper, then 4 screws but what holds the cover in place at
the other end, hidden screws/secret clips? How to remove the wheels ,
perhaps fixings in that area

I suspect the restraint is under the switch cap. But need to know what sort
of thin blade either side of the dash mark in the key cap to delatch it. You
can just make out something by shining a torch through the heavy smoked
plastic in that area. The wheels come off by delatching one of the 4 clips
and then turning the wheel while pulling axially outwards, no clips under
them.

The way in was staring me in the face all the time. To the rear of the
switch cap is what looks like a slightly recessed molding mark. A plastic
disc of exactly the same size and shade of blue is gummy glued over this
and hides a deeply recessed screw. Before finding that had removed the
switch cap , requires 3 blades pushed down 20mm from the lip on the front
and 2 sides and then a third lever to the rear to prize the cap upwards. But
now having got the main cover off it is much easier to remove the cap from
inside delatching. The smoked cover does not come off until 2 screws undone
from inside the main blue cover.

On Oct 16, 7:51*am, "N_Cook" wrote:
The way in was staring me in the face all the time. To the rear of the
switch cap is what looks like a slightly recessed molding mark. A plastic
disc of *exactly the same size and shade of blue is gummy glued over this
and hides a deeply recessed screw. Before finding that had removed the
switch cap , requires 3 blades pushed down 20mm from the lip on the front
and 2 sides and then a third lever to the rear to prize the cap upwards. But
now having got the main cover off it is much easier to remove the cap from
inside delatching. The smoked cover does not come off until 2 screws undone
from inside the main blue cover.

What are you trying to fix????

wrote in message
...
On Oct 16, 7:51 am, "N_Cook" wrote:
The way in was staring me in the face all the time. To the rear of the
switch cap is what looks like a slightly recessed molding mark. A plastic
disc of exactly the same size and shade of blue is gummy glued over this
and hides a deeply recessed screw. Before finding that had removed the
switch cap , requires 3 blades pushed down 20mm from the lip on the front
and 2 sides and then a third lever to the rear to prize the cap upwards.
But
now having got the main cover off it is much easier to remove the cap from
inside delatching. The smoked cover does not come off until 2 screws
undone
from inside the main blue cover.

What are you trying to fix????

++++

B.E.R but I gave it a chance.

N_Cook wrote in message
...
wrote in message
...
On Oct 16, 7:51 am, "N_Cook" wrote:
The way in was staring me in the face all the time. To the rear of the
switch cap is what looks like a slightly recessed molding mark. A
plastic
disc of exactly the same size and shade of blue is gummy glued over this
and hides a deeply recessed screw. Before finding that had removed the
switch cap , requires 3 blades pushed down 20mm from the lip on the
front
and 2 sides and then a third lever to the rear to prize the cap upwards.
But
now having got the main cover off it is much easier to remove the cap
from
inside delatching. The smoked cover does not come off until 2 screws
undone
from inside the main blue cover.

What are you trying to fix????

++++

B.E.R but I gave it a chance.




Well I assume resistance of about 40 ohms between 2 commutator lands of a
2KW tated motor means a rotor coil is open circuit , not to mention a few
sputtered copper/graphite shorts between some other lands and maybe shorted
windings.