Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems.

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Old April 9th 11, 03:10 PM posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Default Heathkit SB-1000 problem

I am the second owner of a Heathkit SB-1000 that was built in the late
1980s. It was working great until I accidentally tried to tune it into a
mistuned antenna and I saw a flash through the ventilation screen on the
left side somewhere around the rectifier/filter section and there is now no
power output. The amp powers up, the fan runs, the meter lamps light and the
tube lights up. The amps multimeter shows 3400 volts on the high voltage
position (a little high maybe but it has always been like that). With no
drive, when the amp is keyed there is no plate current and no grid current.
Keyed with drive there is grid current, but no plate current and no power
output. These conditions are the same regardless of which band the amp is
set to. I had thought that the zener diode might have failed so I replaced
it, but nothing has changed. I would appreciate any thoughts as to what may
be the problem and how to fix it.

73
Chris
VE9ZX



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Old April 9th 11, 06:16 PM posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Default Heathkit SB-1000 problem

Christopher Hall wrote:
I am the second owner of a Heathkit SB-1000 that was built in the late
1980s. It was working great until I accidentally tried to tune it
into a mistuned antenna and I saw a flash through the ventilation
screen on the left side somewhere around the rectifier/filter section
and there is now no power output. The amp powers up, the fan runs,
the meter lamps light and the tube lights up. The amps multimeter
shows 3400 volts on the high voltage position (a little high maybe
but it has always been like that). With no drive, when the amp is
keyed there is no plate current and no grid current. Keyed with drive
there is grid current, but no plate current and no power output.
These conditions are the same regardless of which band the amp is set
to. I had thought that the zener diode might have failed so I
replaced it, but nothing has changed. I would appreciate any thoughts
as to what may be the problem and how to fix it.
73
Chris
VE9ZX



The first thing to check is to see if HV is present on the plate of the
final. If not, there's something blown open, likely in the HV rectifier
circuit. Check rectifiers and capacitors on the HV rectifier and HV filter
boards. Also, make sure there's continuity from the HV rectifier to the
plate of the final. An open circuit there means an open resistor or
inductor between the plate and HV rectifier/filter.

Cheers,
--
David
dgminala at mediacombb dot net



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Old October 16th 13, 01:18 AM posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Default Heathkit SB-1000 problem

responding to
http://www.electrondepot.com/repair/...em-125718-.htm , Ed
Clark WD4ED wrote:
ve9zx wrote:

I am the second owner of a Heathkit SB-1000 that was built in the late
1980s. It was working great until I accidentally tried to tune it into a
mistuned antenna and I saw a flash through the ventilation screen on the
left side somewhere around the rectifier/filter section and there is now
no
power output. The amp powers up, the fan runs, the meter lamps light and
the
tube lights up. The amps multimeter shows 3400 volts on the high voltage
position (a little high maybe but it has always been like that). With no
drive, when the amp is keyed there is no plate current and no grid
current.
Keyed with drive there is grid current, but no plate current and no
power
output. These conditions are the same regardless of which band the amp
is
set to. I had thought that the zener diode might have failed so I
replaced
it, but nothing has changed. I would appreciate any thoughts as to what
may
be the problem and how to fix it.

73
Chris
VE9ZX



Did you ever get this figured out? I have exactly the same amp with the exact
same problem.

Thanks,

Ed


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Old October 16th 13, 02:53 AM posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Posts: 75
Default Heathkit SB-1000 problem

In article .com,
Ed Clark WD4ED m wrote:

Did you ever get this figured out? I have exactly the same amp with the exact
same problem.


Since that's a fairly old posting you may not get a direct response.

Looking at the thread in the archives: it was suggested that this
symptom probably means that there's a fried component, between the HV
filter board, and the tube anode. According to the schematic I see,
the red wire from the filter board goes to a small bypass cap to
ground and into a choke (RFC3). From the output of the choke, it goes
to the anode/plate of the tube via what shows on the schematic as a
resistor (100 ohm 2 watt?) in parallel with a choke or coil of some
sort. At a guess, this may be a "coil wound on resistor" parasitic
suppressor. There's also a connection at this point to the HV
blocking caps and then out to the output-match circuit.

If the choke (RFC3) or this coil/resistor combination is burned or
damaged, it would prevent the tube from receiving any high voltage.
This wouldn't be apparent from the meter reading (since the meter
pickoff is on the HV filter board) but you'd see no plate current
being drawn. Careful inspection of this current path should show you
where the continuity ceases to exist ...

.... IF YOU DO THE INSPECTION WITH PROPER CARE AND PRECAUTIONS. This
is a DANGEROUS high-voltage part of the circuit, and contact with it
while it still holds charge can leave you dead, dead, dead in very
short order.

For what it's worth, I understand that Ameritron offers a professional
repair service for this amplifier (it's a "licensed copy" kit version
of the Ameritron AL80A, designed by W8JI).

See http://www.ameritron.com/heathkit.php for details.


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Old October 16th 13, 06:22 AM posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Default Heathkit SB-1000 problem

On Tue, 15 Oct 2013, David Platt wrote:

In article .com,
Ed Clark WD4ED m wrote:

Did you ever get this figured out? I have exactly the same amp with the exact
same problem.


Since that's a fairly old posting you may not get a direct response.

And since he wants help, he should have just posted instead of replying to
an old message. Not that replying to old messages is ever good.

Looking at the thread in the archives: it was suggested that this
symptom probably means that there's a fried component, between the HV
filter board, and the tube anode. According to the schematic I see,
the red wire from the filter board goes to a small bypass cap to
ground and into a choke (RFC3). From the output of the choke, it goes
to the anode/plate of the tube via what shows on the schematic as a
resistor (100 ohm 2 watt?) in parallel with a choke or coil of some
sort. At a guess, this may be a "coil wound on resistor" parasitic
suppressor. There's also a connection at this point to the HV
blocking caps and then out to the output-match circuit.

If the choke (RFC3) or this coil/resistor combination is burned or
damaged, it would prevent the tube from receiving any high voltage.
This wouldn't be apparent from the meter reading (since the meter
pickoff is on the HV filter board) but you'd see no plate current
being drawn. Careful inspection of this current path should show you
where the continuity ceases to exist ...

... IF YOU DO THE INSPECTION WITH PROPER CARE AND PRECAUTIONS. This
is a DANGEROUS high-voltage part of the circuit, and contact with it
while it still holds charge can leave you dead, dead, dead in very
short order.

For what it's worth, I understand that Ameritron offers a professional
repair service for this amplifier (it's a "licensed copy" kit version
of the Ameritron AL80A, designed by W8JI).

See http://www.ameritron.com/heathkit.php for details.



And it's not like an RF power amplifier is a complicated thing. I've seen
people build them that would be fearful of building something that does
more. An amplifier has a tube or two, and a power supply, and because it
is a power amplifier, everything is big and easy to work on. One could
just check the components one by one if they had no skill in
troubleshooting.

Michael



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Old October 18th 13, 08:18 AM posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Posts: 1,635
Default Heathkit SB-1000 problem

FWIW there appears to be a schematic at :

http://www.vintage-radio.info/downlo...le=sb-1000.zip

I got it and unzipped it and it looks clean. A PDF result form Google comes wuith a warning from google about "harm your computer" so I didn't get that.

If there is plate voltage then there is, that part works. If something went poof it is probably in the cathode circuit, if anything is. If not then in the grid circuit. If so, that tube is probably shorted of has alot of leakage of some type.

In fact without drive it probably should be redplating.
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Old November 29th 15, 01:15 AM posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Default Heathkit SB-1000 problem

On Saturday, April 9, 2011 at 8:10:21 AM UTC-5, Christopher Hall wrote:
I am the second owner of a Heathkit SB-1000 that was built in the late
1980s. It was working great until I accidentally tried to tune it into a
mistuned antenna and I saw a flash through the ventilation screen on the
left side somewhere around the rectifier/filter section and there is now no
power output. The amp powers up, the fan runs, the meter lamps light and the
tube lights up. The amps multimeter shows 3400 volts on the high voltage
position (a little high maybe but it has always been like that). With no
drive, when the amp is keyed there is no plate current and no grid current.
Keyed with drive there is grid current, but no plate current and no power
output. These conditions are the same regardless of which band the amp is
set to. I had thought that the zener diode might have failed so I replaced
it, but nothing has changed. I would appreciate any thoughts as to what may
be the problem and how to fix it.

73
Chris
VE9ZX


Probably the plate choke. Replace it with the MFJ 10-15197, pie wound, plate choke. Some of the original plate chokes used by Heathkit have resonances out
side the bands for which it was originally designed. I used one of the MFJ chokes in my Dentron Clipperton L an made it stable in all bands, including the WARC bands. K5ZYZ
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Old November 29th 15, 02:19 AM posted to sci.electronics.repair
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First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,346
Default Heathkit SB-1000 problem

On 11/28/2015 6:15 PM, wrote:
On Saturday, April 9, 2011 at 8:10:21 AM UTC-5, Christopher Hall wrote:



LOOK AT THE DATE

  #9   Report Post  
Old November 29th 15, 04:36 PM posted to sci.electronics.repair
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First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Apr 2015
Posts: 116
Default Heathkit SB-1000 problem

In article , says...

On 11/28/2015 6:15 PM,
wrote:
On Saturday, April 9, 2011 at 8:10:21 AM UTC-5, Christopher Hall wrote:



LOOK AT THE DATE


Oh slap my ass!

At least it was a good read, it brought back memories!


Jamie

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Old November 30th 15, 01:54 AM posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Posts: 2,346
Default Heathkit SB-1000 problem

On 11/29/2015 9:36 AM, M Philbrook wrote:
In article , says...

On 11/28/2015 6:15 PM,
wrote:
On Saturday, April 9, 2011 at 8:10:21 AM UTC-5, Christopher Hall wrote:



LOOK AT THE DATE


Oh slap my ass!

At least it was a good read, it brought back memories!


Jamie




yeah...I am presently scanning my old negatives and just came across a
photo of me in my shack back in 1971


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