Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
![]() |
|
Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
Reply |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair,aus.electronics
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I have to phases of power supply to my house - so three power lines, two
phases plus neutral. I've on occasion wondered what would happen if we lost the neutral line. It seems to me that we'd then have the voltage between the two phases across two sets of appliances, one set attached to one phase, and the other set attached to the other phase, with the two sets in series as a result of their common connection to the neutral wire. Since the two sets are unlikely to represent equal loads, the net result would be a large overvoltage on one set of appliances. My electrician says it's not an issue, but I can't see why. Any thoughts? Sylvia. |
#2
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Sylvia Else wrote:
I have to phases of power supply to my house - so three power lines, two phases plus neutral. I suspect it is really "single phase" (think: center tapped transformer) -- though in Oz they probably do things differently! : I've on occasion wondered what would happen if we lost the neutral line. It seems to me that we'd then have the voltage between the two phases across two sets of appliances, one set attached to one phase, and the other set attached to the other phase, with the two sets in series as a result of their common connection to the neutral wire. Since the two sets are unlikely to represent equal loads, the net result would be a large overvoltage on one set of appliances. "Large" is a relative term. Homes are typically wired to try to distribute the loads roughly equally on the two legs. And, REALLY BIG loads (e.g., air conditioner compressor) tend to straddle *both*. My electrician says it's not an issue, but I can't see why. "Luck"? But, in theory, he is wrong. The more significant issue is *how* you would lose neutral. Here (US), your house is tied to *earth* at the main panel. And, neutral is similarly tied to earth. So, you would have to lose the neutral feed from the utility *and* the earth at your house. This has happened to two neighbors in the past 10 years, though. I think in both cases it was caused by a cable actually failing (corrosion). In one case, the folks sharing his distribution transformer (typically four homes to a transformer) lost power when the incoming power was effectively *shorted* to ground, (I don't know what the distribution transformers are fused at but it was enough to set some adjacent utilities -- below grade -- on fire) |
#3
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
D Yuniskis wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote: I have to phases of power supply to my house - so three power lines, two phases plus neutral. I suspect it is really "single phase" (think: center tapped transformer) -- though in Oz they probably do things differently! : I've on occasion wondered what would happen if we lost the neutral line. It seems to me that we'd then have the voltage between the two phases across two sets of appliances, one set attached to one phase, and the other set attached to the other phase, with the two sets in series as a result of their common connection to the neutral wire. Since the two sets are unlikely to represent equal loads, the net result would be a large overvoltage on one set of appliances. "Large" is a relative term. Homes are typically wired to try to distribute the loads roughly equally on the two legs. And, REALLY BIG loads (e.g., air conditioner compressor) tend to straddle *both*. I imagine that's the case in terms of large potential loads, but if I think about what's actually running in my house at the moment, apart from a couple of lights, it'd be the refrigerator and my computers. I don't know whether they're on difference phases, but if they are they'd represent significantly different loads. Sylvia. |
#4
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Sylvia Else wrote:
D Yuniskis wrote: Sylvia Else wrote: I have to phases of power supply to my house - so three power lines, two phases plus neutral. I suspect it is really "single phase" (think: center tapped transformer) -- though in Oz they probably do things differently! : I've on occasion wondered what would happen if we lost the neutral line. It seems to me that we'd then have the voltage between the two phases across two sets of appliances, one set attached to one phase, and the other set attached to the other phase, with the two sets in series as a result of their common connection to the neutral wire. Since the two sets are unlikely to represent equal loads, the net result would be a large overvoltage on one set of appliances. "Large" is a relative term. Homes are typically wired to try to distribute the loads roughly equally on the two legs. And, REALLY BIG loads (e.g., air conditioner compressor) tend to straddle *both*. I imagine that's the case in terms of large potential loads, but if I think about what's actually running in my house at the moment, apart from a couple of lights, it'd be the refrigerator and my computers. I don't know whether they're on difference phases, but if they are they'd represent significantly different loads. Exactly. And, those loads *change*. So, when the refrigerator's compressor kicks off, *that* load is gone (here, refrigerator sits between one leg and neutral; yours may straddle both legs?) |
#5
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair,aus.electronics
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Nov 24, 10:10 am, Sylvia Else wrote:
I have to phases of power supply to my house - so three power lines, two phases plus neutral. I've on occasion wondered what would happen if we lost the neutral line. It seems to me that we'd then have the voltage between the two phases across two sets of appliances, one set attached to one phase, and the other set attached to the other phase, with the two sets in series as a result of their common connection to the neutral wire. Since the two sets are unlikely to represent equal loads, the net result would be a large overvoltage on one set of appliances. My electrician says it's not an issue, but I can't see why. Any thoughts? Sylvia. You are both right and wrong as in the absence of Neutral line, a lot of the neutral current (imbalance) would probably flow via your earth stake back to the transformer neutral or to a neighbours neutral via their earth stake and while its not a perfect situation, imbalance probably would not be as bad as you might think ? Of course, if there is a long run through earth (terra firma) back to the nearest neutral, the soil is really dry, the earth stake is sub- standard etc etc it might not work very well. Years and years back I once saw the result of this at a 3 phase installation at a carnival, we were called out to fix They would have with them, and take from site to site portable fuse boxes with a 3 phase plug, going to a box with breakers feeding rows of power points going to each phase (like in a normal building installation, but portable). They would plug in all their gear to these sockets, and plug the 3 phase into the 3 phase sockets provided at the venues. Of course, a lot of the carnival workers would probably just plug things in at random, and who knows what load would be on the end of each lead. There could also be very large numbers of flashing lights on one lead too, so the load would be less than perfect, and surely not anywhere near balanced or stable ![]() One case, the neutral lead broke off. On one phase there was a lot of damage to computer gear / arcade games (same sort of thing - switchmode power supplies) etc. Some was just blown fuses, some worse. Note, they didn't have the earth and neutral bonded inside the box, and didn't have a separate earth stake, where in a home fuse box they would. 2 phase situation like yours would be a similar result, unless the load was really well balanced, and consisting of mostly NON-switchmode power supply type devices. The phase with the lowest load would suffer overvoltage. This load imbalance and voltage difference would change all the time as various appliances automatically switch off and on, like fridges, air cons, electric HWS etc. Light bulbs may blow from overvoltage, this would also change the balance Try connecting 12v bulbs of different wattages in series across 24v and see what happens. The voltage will not be the same across each. Much the same thing. |
#6
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair,aus.electronics
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
In sci.electronics.repair kreed wrote:
On Nov 24, 10:10 am, Sylvia Else wrote: I have to phases of power supply to my house - so three power lines, two phases plus neutral. I've on occasion wondered what would happen if we lost the neutral line. It seems to me that we'd then have the voltage between the two phases across two sets of appliances, one set attached to one phase, and the other set attached to the other phase, with the two sets in series as a result of their common connection to the neutral wire. Since the two sets are unlikely to represent equal loads, the net result would be a large overvoltage on one set of appliances. My electrician says it's not an issue, but I can't see why. Any thoughts? Sylvia. You are both right and wrong as in the absence of Neutral line, a lot of the neutral current (imbalance) would probably flow via your earth stake back to the transformer neutral or to a neighbours neutral via their earth stake and while its not a perfect situation, imbalance probably would not be as bad as you might think ? Of course, if there is a long run through earth (terra firma) back to the nearest neutral, the soil is really dry, the earth stake is sub- standard etc etc it might not work very well. Years and years back I once saw the result of this at a 3 phase installation at a carnival, we were called out to fix They would have with them, and take from site to site portable fuse boxes with a 3 phase plug, going to a box with breakers feeding rows of power points going to each phase (like in a normal building installation, but portable). They would plug in all their gear to these sockets, and plug the 3 phase into the 3 phase sockets provided at the venues. Of course, a lot of the carnival workers would probably just plug things in at random, and who knows what load would be on the end of each lead. There could also be very large numbers of flashing lights on one lead too, so the load would be less than perfect, and surely not anywhere near balanced or stable ![]() One case, the neutral lead broke off. On one phase there was a lot of damage to computer gear / arcade games (same sort of thing - switchmode power supplies) etc. Some was just blown fuses, some worse. Note, they didn't have the earth and neutral bonded inside the box, and didn't have a separate earth stake, where in a home fuse box they would. 2 phase situation like yours would be a similar result, unless the load was really well balanced, and consisting of mostly NON-switchmode power supply type devices. The phase with the lowest load would suffer overvoltage. This load imbalance and voltage difference would change all the time as various appliances automatically switch off and on, like fridges, air cons, electric HWS etc. Light bulbs may blow from overvoltage, this would also change the balance Try connecting 12v bulbs of different wattages in series across 24v and see what happens. The voltage will not be the same across each. Much the same thing. I actually had the neutral fail (break) a few years back during a winter wind-storm. No deleterious effects. The imbalance (neutral) current was carried by the ground, a copper water pipe that's probably at least 10 feet below gound level and 20 0r so feet long. Jerry |
#7
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair,aus.electronics
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
kreed wrote:
You are both right and wrong as in the absence of Neutral line, a lot of the neutral current (imbalance) would probably flow via your earth stake back to the transformer neutral or to a neighbours neutral via their earth stake and while its not a perfect situation, imbalance probably would not be as bad as you might think ? Of course, if there is a long run through earth (terra firma) back to the nearest neutral, the soil is really dry, the earth stake is sub- standard etc etc it might not work very well. Sometimes, just to make things really exciting, some of the neutral current flows over alternate paths to a neighbor's house. These alternate paths can include things like cable TV shields. |
#8
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Sylvia Else wrote:
I have to phases of power supply to my house - so three power lines, two phases plus neutral. I've on occasion wondered what would happen if we lost the neutral line. It seems to me that we'd then have the voltage between the two phases across two sets of appliances, one set attached to one phase, and the other set attached to the other phase, with the two sets in series as a result of their common connection to the neutral wire. Since the two sets are unlikely to represent equal loads, the net result would be a large overvoltage on one set of appliances. My electrician says it's not an issue, but I can't see why. Any thoughts? Sylvia. I had exactly this happening two years ago. My supply has 3 phases and I lost part of the neutral connectivity through corrosion on the terminal coming in from the power pole. The result was a brown out on some and over voltage on other phases. In top of this I got a tingling zapping in the shower. I guess, depending on the quality of the earth rod, this can be a pretty bad situation. Where will the returning current go if there is no neutral? Through a different phase I guess. Neutral will have a more or less floating potential. Tony |
#9
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Tue, 24 Nov 2009 09:28:48 +0800, TonyS wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote: I have to phases of power supply to my house - so three power lines, two phases plus neutral. I've on occasion wondered what would happen if we lost the neutral line. It seems to me that we'd then have the voltage between the two phases across two sets of appliances, one set attached to one phase, and the other set attached to the other phase, with the two sets in series as a result of their common connection to the neutral wire. Since the two sets are unlikely to represent equal loads, the net result would be a large overvoltage on one set of appliances. My electrician says it's not an issue, but I can't see why. Any thoughts? I had exactly this happening two years ago. My supply has 3 phases ... -snip- Oh?? Really?!?! |
#10
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Allodoxaphobia wrote:
On Tue, 24 Nov 2009 09:28:48 +0800, TonyS wrote: Sylvia Else wrote: I have to phases of power supply to my house - so three power lines, two phases plus neutral. I've on occasion wondered what would happen if we lost the neutral line. It seems to me that we'd then have the voltage between the two phases across two sets of appliances, one set attached to one phase, and the other set attached to the other phase, with the two sets in series as a result of their common connection to the neutral wire. Since the two sets are unlikely to represent equal loads, the net result would be a large overvoltage on one set of appliances. My electrician says it's not an issue, but I can't see why. Any thoughts? I had exactly this happening two years ago. My supply has 3 phases ... -snip- Oh?? Really?!?! Yes, why?? |
#11
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair,aus.electronics
|
|||
|
|||
![]() In article , Sylvia Else wrote: I have to phases of power supply to my house - so three power lines, two phases plus neutral. I've on occasion wondered what would happen if we lost the neutral line. It seems to me that we'd then have the voltage between the two phases across two sets of appliances, one set attached to one phase, and the other set attached to the other phase, with the two sets in series as a result of their common connection to the neutral wire. Since the two sets are unlikely to represent equal loads, the net result would be a large overvoltage on one set of appliances. My electrician says it's not an issue, but I can't see why. It's a huge issue. It has happened twice, at my house. In both cases, a squirrel had chewed through the neutral wire (they apparently like to sharpen / exercise their teeth on the rubbery insulation). The symptoms were much as you suggest. Voltage goes wonky, with the voltage being fed to each phase being dependent on the various loads connected to both phases. Voltages at the high-amperage appliances can drop (and this can result in burned-out motors) while voltages on the opposite phase can spike upwards (burning out incandescent lights, damaging other appliances through over-voltage). Worst case would be a heavy load on one phase, and only very light loads on the other phase... the lightly loaded side could jump up to almost double voltage. The oddest symptom we noticed was that when a heavy load switched on (e.g. refrigerator or microwave), room lights would suddenly brighten... just the opposite of what would normally occur. Both times this happened, we noticed the weirdness immediately, called the electric company (PG&E), and they dispatched a service team on a priority basis. The dispatcher told me that they consider *any* sort of "high voltage, low voltage" trouble report to justify an urgent response. She had understood my use of the phrase "open neutral", and I infer that this is a not-terribly-unusual situation for them. After the second time this happened, the PG&E guys decided that our existing pole-drop was not repairable (it had already been spliced at least one). They installed a newer, higher-amperage-rated drop (which might even have had some armoring). The problem hasn't recurred... I'm keeping my fingers crossed. -- Dave Platt AE6EO Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads! |
#12
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair,aus.electronics
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "Dave Platt" Sylvia Else I have to phases of power supply to my house - so three power lines, two phases plus neutral. I've on occasion wondered what would happen if we lost the neutral line. It seems to me that we'd then have the voltage between the two phases across two sets of appliances, one set attached to one phase, and the other set attached to the other phase, with the two sets in series as a result of their common connection to the neutral wire. Since the two sets are unlikely to represent equal loads, the net result would be a large overvoltage on one set of appliances. My electrician says it's not an issue, but I can't see why. It's a huge issue. ** Sylvia lives in Sydney, Australia and is a MASSIVE TROLL. Nuts of her the post such a COUNTRY SPECIFIC message to a US newsgroup. ...... Phil |
#13
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair,aus.electronics
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Phil Allison wrote:
"Dave Platt" Sylvia Else I have to phases of power supply to my house - so three power lines, two phases plus neutral. I've on occasion wondered what would happen if we lost the neutral line. It seems to me that we'd then have the voltage between the two phases across two sets of appliances, one set attached to one phase, and the other set attached to the other phase, with the two sets in series as a result of their common connection to the neutral wire. Since the two sets are unlikely to represent equal loads, the net result would be a large overvoltage on one set of appliances. My electrician says it's not an issue, but I can't see why. It's a huge issue. ** Sylvia lives in Sydney, Australia and is a MASSIVE TROLL. Nuts of her the post such a COUNTRY SPECIFIC message to a US newsgroup. Last time I checked, multiphase power supply was pretty universal, and the principles to be applied in understanding the consequences of faults would be the same. Or perhaps you want to argue that the different voltage in Australia is the deciding factor. Sylvia. |
#14
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair,aus.electronics
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "Stupider than Anyone Else Alive " ** Sylvia lives in Sydney, Australia and is a MASSIVE TROLL. Nuts of her the post such a COUNTRY SPECIFIC message to a US newsgroup. Last time I checked, multiphase power supply was pretty universal, and the principles to be applied in understanding the consequences of faults would be the same. ** 100 % WRONG !!! The question this insane bitch posted IS country SPECIFIC !!! Cos it was about her house in * Sydney, Australia *. See Trevor Wilson's reply. ..... Phil |
#15
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Phil Allison wrote:
"Stupider than Anyone Else Alive " ** Sylvia lives in Sydney, Australia and is a MASSIVE TROLL. Nuts of her the post such a COUNTRY SPECIFIC message to a US newsgroup. Last time I checked, multiphase power supply was pretty universal, and the principles to be applied in understanding the consequences of faults would be the same. ** 100 % WRONG !!! The question this insane bitch posted IS country SPECIFIC !!! Cos it was about her house in * Sydney, Australia *. Wow, why all the hostility? A "personal gripe"? Can I suggest that if you don't want to see posts by a particular person, you simply add his/her name to your "kill file" (or whatever Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2900.2180 uses for that feature)? Speaking solely for myself -- but, perhaps, reflecting the experiences of many "fellow countrymen" -- I think most Americans have very little exposure to "other cultures/societies/power distribution systems/etc : " owing, perhaps, to the large size of our country and its relative homogeneity. I find it interesting to hear how things are done "elsewhere" and, especially, *why*. ("Driving on the PARKWAY and parking in the DRIVEWAY...") ;-) |
#16
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair,aus.electronics
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Nov 24, 12:16 pm, Sylvia Else wrote:
Phil Allison wrote: "Dave Platt" Sylvia Else I have to phases of power supply to my house - so three power lines, two phases plus neutral. I've on occasion wondered what would happen if we lost the neutral line. It seems to me that we'd then have the voltage between the two phases across two sets of appliances, one set attached to one phase, and the other set attached to the other phase, with the two sets in series as a result of their common connection to the neutral wire. Since the two sets are unlikely to represent equal loads, the net result would be a large overvoltage on one set of appliances. My electrician says it's not an issue, but I can't see why. It's a huge issue. ** Sylvia lives in Sydney, Australia and is a MASSIVE TROLL. Nuts of her the post such a COUNTRY SPECIFIC message to a US newsgroup. Last time I checked, multiphase power supply was pretty universal, and the principles to be applied in understanding the consequences of faults would be the same. Or perhaps you want to argue that the different voltage in Australia is the deciding factor. Sylvia. From what I can gather, pretty much every home in the US has a 120v - 0 - 120v system where the 2x 120v's are 180 degrees out of phase. Between the 2 phases 240v is available for stoves, air conditioners etc. In Australia, most separate homes have a straight single phase 240v supply, its not common for there to be 2,3 separate phases to the average house. Therefore the scenario Sylvia mentions is less likely to occur, as not many people have this multi phase system. The exception here could be blocks of flats, if the main neutral to the building fails, and there isn't a good earth, the imbalance could be a risk. |
#17
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair,aus.electronics
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "kreed" From what I can gather, pretty much every home in the US has a 120v - 0 - 120v system where the 2x 120v's are 180 degrees out of phase. Between the 2 phases 240v is available for stoves, air conditioners etc. In Australia, most separate homes have a straight single phase 240v supply, its not common for there to be 2,3 separate phases to the average house. Therefore the scenario Sylvia mentions is less likely to occur, as not many people have this multi phase system. The exception here could be blocks of flats, if the main neutral to the building fails, and there isn't a good earth, the imbalance could be a risk. ** There is always a good "earth" available - courtesy of the water mains in the street being linked to neutral at every premises. ...... Phil |
#18
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair,aus.electronics
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "Stupider than Anyone Else" I have to phases of power supply to my house - so three power lines, two phases plus neutral. I've on occasion wondered what would happen if we lost the neutral line. It seems to me that we'd then have the voltage between the two phases across two sets of appliances, one set attached to one phase, and the other set attached to the other phase, with the two sets in series as a result of their common connection to the neutral wire. Since the two sets are unlikely to represent equal loads, the net result would be a large overvoltage on one set of appliances. My electrician says it's not an issue, but I can't see why. ** Loss of the neutral conductor in a 3 phase ( or 2 phase) AC supply system can easily be a DISASTROUS event. For example: In the live entertainment productions - high powered lighting and sound systems operate from 3 phase outlets via a hefty 5 pin plug and socket. If, due to wear and tear or damage to the plug or socket, one of the phases drops out - that is an annoyance but not a disaster. However, if the pin carrying the neutral fails to connect or as is often the case *disconnects* during a show because of overheating - ALL HELL BREAKS LOOSE !! Typically, some of the lamps will glow very brightly for a second or two and fail, then other previously dim lamps will follow suit. The AC fuses in amplifiers will pop instantly and some equipment will be seriously damaged when the PSU sections are destroyed. It all happens in a few seconds, while the operators stand there with their mouths open !!! The MEN system: In Australia, AC power delivery uses a system called " Multiple Earth Neutral " - which requires that the neutral conductors in a premises be connected to the plumbing system at the distribution board (ie power box). It also requires that an earth stake be installed for the same purpose, but some older premises may not have this. Because EVERY premises has MEN installed, the ground itself and underground metal plumbing act as an alternative neutral, should the supply conductor feeding a given premises fail. The disastrous event sometimes experienced in live entertainment systems is hardly possible in domestic or commercial premises. So the sparky is right. ..... Phil |
#19
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair,aus.electronics
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Nov 24, 10:58 am, "Phil Allison" wrote:
"Stupider than Anyone Else" I have to phases of power supply to my house - so three power lines, two phases plus neutral. I've on occasion wondered what would happen if we lost the neutral line. It seems to me that we'd then have the voltage between the two phases across two sets of appliances, one set attached to one phase, and the other set attached to the other phase, with the two sets in series as a result of their common connection to the neutral wire. Since the two sets are unlikely to represent equal loads, the net result would be a large overvoltage on one set of appliances. My electrician says it's not an issue, but I can't see why. ** Loss of the neutral conductor in a 3 phase ( or 2 phase) AC supply system can easily be a DISASTROUS event. For example: In the live entertainment productions - high powered lighting and sound systems operate from 3 phase outlets via a hefty 5 pin plug and socket. If, due to wear and tear or damage to the plug or socket, one of the phases drops out - that is an annoyance but not a disaster. However, if the pin carrying the neutral fails to connect or as is often the case *disconnects* during a show because of overheating - ALL HELL BREAKS LOOSE !! Typically, some of the lamps will glow very brightly for a second or two and fail, then other previously dim lamps will follow suit. The AC fuses in amplifiers will pop instantly and some equipment will be seriously damaged when the PSU sections are destroyed. It all happens in a few seconds, while the operators stand there with their mouths open !!! The MEN system: In Australia, AC power delivery uses a system called " Multiple Earth Neutral " - which requires that the neutral conductors in a premises be connected to the plumbing system at the distribution board (ie power box). It also requires that an earth stake be installed for the same purpose, but some older premises may not have this. Because EVERY premises has MEN installed, the ground itself and underground metal plumbing act as an alternative neutral, should the supply conductor feeding a given premises fail. The disastrous event sometimes experienced in live entertainment systems is hardly possible in domestic or commercial premises. So the sparky is right. The scenario you mention with live entertainment is particularly bad, as when you think about it, unlike a fixed installation you can't bond the earth and neutral in these portable 3 phase to 240v outlet mains boxes. If you did, it would trip any earth leakage breakers upstream - if these are fitted. To make matters worse, in live entertainment, the major loads are almost all amplifiers, and lighting. None of these are stable loads (amplifiers are changing their load current draw constantly with the music and lights are being dimmed, flashed often in large groups. ) Therefore if the neutral lead fails, there is no bonding to earth to back it up, unlike a residence, and with the inherent instabilty of the load balance , massive damage is guaranteed. .... Phil |
#20
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair,aus.electronics
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Phil Allison wrote:
The MEN system: In Australia, AC power delivery uses a system called " Multiple Earth Neutral " - which requires that the neutral conductors in a premises be connected to the plumbing system at the distribution board (ie power box). It also requires that an earth stake be installed for the same purpose, but some older premises may not have this. Actually, the Neutral conductors are *NOT* connected to the plumbing system. The Neutral conductor is connected by the MEN link to the main earthing conductor, which is connected to the appropriate earth electrode. AS/NZS 3000 then requires that conductive pipe work be equipotentially bonded to the main earth conductor or earth terminal or bar (NOT to the neutral). David |
#21
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair,aus.electronics
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "David the PEDANTIC **** FROM HELL " Actually, the Neutral conductors are *NOT* connected to the plumbing system. ** Wot INSANE CRAPOLOGY !! The Neutral conductor is connected by the MEN link to the main earthing conductor, which is connected to the appropriate earth electrode. ** Da knee bone's connected to da thigh bone .... AS/NZS 3000 then requires that conductive pipe work be equipotentially bonded to the main earth conductor or earth terminal or bar (NOT to the neutral). ** Folks - you have to forgive David cos he is mentally defective. Bad genes from his mother and his father. Congenital autism is a curse.... ...... Phil |
#22
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair,aus.electronics
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Phil Allison the unqualified drop out wrote:
Actually, the Neutral conductors are *NOT* connected to the plumbing system. ** Wot INSANE CRAPOLOGY !! The Neutral conductor is connected by the MEN link to the main earthing conductor, which is connected to the appropriate earth electrode. ** Da knee bone's connected to da thigh bone .... But the Neutral not connected to the water pipe.... AS/NZS 3000 then requires that conductive pipe work be equipotentially bonded to the main earth conductor or earth terminal or bar (NOT to the neutral). This should explain it for you Phil. Not too technical. http://www.standards.org.au/download...ards_Alert.pdf David |
#23
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair,aus.electronics
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "David the PEDANTIC **** FROM HELL " Actually, the Neutral conductors are *NOT* connected to the plumbing system. ** Wot INSANE CRAPOLOGY !! The Neutral conductor is connected by the MEN link to the main earthing conductor, which is connected to the appropriate earth electrode. ** Da knee bone's connected to da thigh bone .... AS/NZS 3000 then requires that conductive pipe work be equipotentially bonded to the main earth conductor or earth terminal or bar (NOT to the neutral). ** Folks - you have to forgive David cos he is mentally defective. Bad genes from his mother and his father. Congenital autism is a curse. This dude is is TOTALLY ****ED WITH IT. ...... Phil |
#24
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair,aus.electronics
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Sylvia Else wrote:
I have to phases of power supply to my house - so three power lines, two phases plus neutral. I've on occasion wondered what would happen if we lost the neutral line. It seems to me that we'd then have the voltage between the two phases across two sets of appliances, one set attached to one phase, and the other set attached to the other phase, with the two sets in series as a result of their common connection to the neutral wire. Since the two sets are unlikely to represent equal loads, the net result would be a large overvoltage on one set of appliances. My electrician says it's not an issue, but I can't see why. Any thoughts? **Not an issue, due to the MEN system used in AUSTRALIA. Cross-posting to an international group will guarantee a bunch of useless comments. Pay attention to Australian posters only. Your electrician is correct. -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au |
#25
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair,aus.electronics
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Trevor Wilson wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote: I have to phases of power supply to my house - so three power lines, two phases plus neutral. I've on occasion wondered what would happen if we lost the neutral line. It seems to me that we'd then have the voltage between the two phases across two sets of appliances, one set attached to one phase, and the other set attached to the other phase, with the two sets in series as a result of their common connection to the neutral wire. Since the two sets are unlikely to represent equal loads, the net result would be a large overvoltage on one set of appliances. My electrician says it's not an issue, but I can't see why. Any thoughts? **Not an issue, due to the MEN system used in AUSTRALIA. Cross-posting to an international group will guarantee a bunch of useless comments. Pay attention to Australian posters only. Your electrician is correct. From the replies, the same system applies in the US. But people have still had problems. Sylvia. |
#26
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair,aus.electronics
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Sylvia Else wrote:
Trevor Wilson wrote: Sylvia Else wrote: I have to phases of power supply to my house - so three power lines, two phases plus neutral. I've on occasion wondered what would happen if we lost the neutral line. It seems to me that we'd then have the voltage between the two phases across two sets of appliances, one set attached to one phase, and the other set attached to the other phase, with the two sets in series as a result of their common connection to the neutral wire. Since the two sets are unlikely to represent equal loads, the net result would be a large overvoltage on one set of appliances. My electrician says it's not an issue, but I can't see why. Any thoughts? **Not an issue, due to the MEN system used in AUSTRALIA. Cross-posting to an international group will guarantee a bunch of useless comments. Pay attention to Australian posters only. Your electrician is correct. From the replies, the same system applies in the US. But people have still had problems. **AFAIK, the US system is fundamentally different to ours. -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au |
#27
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair,aus.electronics
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "Trevor Wilson" **AFAIK, the US system is fundamentally different to ours. ** In the US and Canada - it is NOT permitted to link neutral and earth or plumbing within a premises. See here under the heading "Regulations". http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Earthing_system The MEN system used here in Australia seems to be unique. See last para on same page. ...... Phil |
#28
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair,aus.electronics
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Phil Allison wrote:
"Trevor Wilson" **AFAIK, the US system is fundamentally different to ours. ** In the US and Canada - it is NOT permitted to link neutral and earth or plumbing within a premises. See here under the heading "Regulations". http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Earthing_system The MEN system used here in Australia seems to be unique. See last para on same page. **Interesting. I'd have thunk that some places in Europe might employ a similar system. Guess not. Ever since I ran across my first US audio product with a high value resistor to chassis from (allegedly) Neutral, I realised that the US system was highly flawed. -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au |
#29
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Phil Allison wrote:
"Trevor Wilson" **AFAIK, the US system is fundamentally different to ours. ** In the US and Canada - it is NOT permitted to link neutral and earth or plumbing within a premises. "*within* a premises". The neutral *is* "earthed" right outside the home, typically. The Code goes to great lengths telling you exactly *how* to earth the mains at the service entrance. However, this ignores the fact that most residential wiring is grandfathered into "acceptance". Previously, homes *were* grounded through their "water main" (e.g., my parents home has ground at the water meter). So, you can encounter all sorts of different situations here in the US (I've even worked on homes with knob & tube wiring!) See here under the heading "Regulations". http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Earthing_system The MEN system used here in Australia seems to be unique. See last para on same page. |
#30
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair,aus.electronics
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Nov 23, 6:36*pm, "Phil Allison" wrote:
"Trevor Wilson" **AFAIK, the US system is fundamentally different to ours. ** In the US and Canada *- * it is *NOT *permitted to link neutral and earth or plumbing within a premises. See here under the heading "Regulations". http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Earthing_system The MEN system used here in Australia seems to be unique. See last para on same page. ..... *Phil Rubbish. In most of Canada, it is manditory that the neutral be bonded to earth at only ONE point, the service entrance switch enclosure. From that point an earth conductor is connected to 2 ground rods and to any metallic piping system(s). Neutral failure is a not uncommon problem especially with overhead aluminum 'triplex' service drops. A seagull deficates on the bare aluminum neutral and it soon rots off leaving an open neutral condition. Ground rod to earth resistances of 5 ohms are not uncommon, so a 10A unbalance between 'phases' could give a 50V offset of the neutral. Neil S. |
#31
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair,aus.electronics
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "Stupider than Anyone Else on Earth " Trevor Wilson wrote: My electrician says it's not an issue, but I can't see why. Any thoughts? **Not an issue, due to the MEN system used in AUSTRALIA. Cross-posting to an international group will guarantee a bunch of useless comments. Pay attention to Australian posters only. Your electrician is correct. From the replies, the same system applies in the US. ** Wot INSANE ****ING CRAPOLOGY !! The only relevant reply from the US so far indicates the DIRECT OPPOSITE . **** off - TROLLING BITCH. ...... Phil |
#32
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair,aus.electronics
|
|||
|
|||
![]() My electrician says it's not an issue, but I can't see why. Any thoughts? Sylvia. Sylvia Thought one. Get rid of the electrician. In my experience with loss of neutrals it is the number one cause of electrical equipment/lighting failure. Bob AZ |
#33
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair,aus.electronics
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Sylvia Else wrote:
I have to phases of power supply to my house - so three power lines, two phases plus neutral. I've on occasion wondered what would happen if we lost the neutral line. It seems to me that we'd then have the voltage between the two phases across two sets of appliances, one set attached to one phase, and the other set attached to the other phase, with the two sets in series as a result of their common connection to the neutral wire. Since the two sets are unlikely to represent equal loads, the net result would be a large overvoltage on one set of appliances. My electrician says it's not an issue, but I can't see why. Any thoughts? Sylvia. not a neutral problem but. I can remember an old lady complaining that every time she turned the hot water tap the lights came on half brilliance.and sure enough they did. she had three phase and an instantaneous three phase water heater. one phase had gone and the heater caused the dead phase to be live in series with element.(the water flow closes the heater circuit) |
#34
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair,aus.electronics
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Tue, 24 Nov 2009 11:10:26 +1100, Sylvia Else wrote:
the net result would be a large overvoltage on one set of appliances. It would be across both sets, but...... My electrician says it's not an issue, but I can't see why. The neutral is actually grounded to the earth for such a case; hence MEN (Multiple Earth Neutral), so the neutral would actually travel through the ground to your neighbours earth stake and back into the neutral phase there. If the USA Godzilla remake is to be believed, all your earth worms will come to the surface as an indicator, (or is that only for correct DC connections?). If you are worried about such an event happening, dump a bucket of wter on your earth stake quarterly and encourage your neighbours to do the same. |
#35
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Hi!
I've on occasion wondered what would happen if we lost the neutral line. (speaking from a 110V perspective as I'm in the US where power is delivered as 2x110 volt hot leads with one neutral) The voltage between the two fluctuates wildly, that's what. The more heavily loaded of the two will have a voltage drop while the lightly loaded one goes up. CRT computer monitors get the jitters even when things are relatively normal. I don't know why this is. Damage can occur to devices when they get nailed with high voltage. It won't be a huge issue up to a point for simple devices, or those with autoranging power supplies that may try to compensate. Everything else will suffer--motors, transformer type power supplies, etc...and your electrican *should* know that. A fire could start depending upon how badly something reacts to the over or under voltage. William (had it happen here some years ago - one TV and a few surge protectors got burnt. Curiously, the TV was not completely dead afterwards, just temperamental about turning on when warm.) |
#36
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]() William R. Walsh wrote: Hi! I've on occasion wondered what would happen if we lost the neutral line. (speaking from a 110V perspective as I'm in the US where power is delivered as 2x110 volt hot leads with one neutral) The voltage between the two fluctuates wildly, that's what. The more heavily loaded of the two will have a voltage drop while the lightly loaded one goes up. CRT computer monitors get the jitters even when things are relatively normal. I don't know why this is. Damage can occur to devices when they get nailed with high voltage. It won't be a huge issue up to a point for simple devices, or those with autoranging power supplies that may try to compensate. Everything else will suffer--motors, transformer type power supplies, etc...and your electrican *should* know that. A fire could start depending upon how badly something reacts to the over or under voltage. William (had it happen here some years ago - one TV and a few surge protectors got burnt. Curiously, the TV was not completely dead afterwards, just temperamental about turning on when warm.) I witnessed potentially expensive neutral problems twice, once while living in Hawaii, and once at my present location in North Carolina. In Hawaii the house I was staying in had to be fumigated and while the workers were tenting the house, they managed to break a partially corroded-thru neutral wire coming from the power pole, which no one noticed. Upon moving back into the house, the recently-new refrigerator died a quick death upon being plugged back in, upon which an electrician was called in, who quickly located the broken neutral. The second time was when I'd been living where I am now, and I'd recently bought a new fridge - after a few months having it working fine I noticed it was sounding like it was struggling to start and at the same time some of the lights would get brighter (I guess they were on the other half of the 240V supply). Not wanting to have to deal with a dead fridge again, I investigated the incoming power panel and found the neutral to be rather lose, so I coated it and the other 2 incoming wires with some Noalox (an anti-aluminum oxidation compound) and tightened 'em all goot-n-tite. That was about 7 years ago, no more problems so far. Mike |
#37
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair,aus.electronics
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Leaving the neutral failure issue aside, what would happen if I disabled
the Earth leakage detectors and drew power across the two phases. Would the two utility meters correctly reflect the energy I consumed? Sylvia. |
#38
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair,aus.electronics
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Sylvia Else wrote:
Leaving the neutral failure issue aside, what would happen if I disabled the Earth leakage detectors and drew power across the two phases. Would the two utility meters correctly reflect the energy I consumed? Sylvia. On second thoughts, it's pretty obvious that they wouldn't be correct, and that I'd be significantly overcharged for the power. Sylvia. |
#39
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair,aus.electronics
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Sylvia Else writes:
Sylvia Else wrote: Leaving the neutral failure issue aside, what would happen if I disabled the Earth leakage detectors and drew power across the two phases. Would the two utility meters correctly reflect the energy I consumed? yes. Sylvia. On second thoughts, it's pretty obvious that they wouldn't be correct, and that I'd be significantly overcharged for the power. Sylvia. No you wouldn't. Each of the meters will indicate what you draw from the phases, and as you now have a higher voltage, you will also draw more power, which is what you are paying for. Thomas |
#40
![]()
Posted to sci.electronics.repair,aus.electronics
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "Sylvia Else" wrote in message ... Leaving the neutral failure issue aside, what would happen if I disabled the Earth leakage detectors and drew power across the two phases. **Depends on the equipment you connected. The damage might range from mild to catastrophic. Would the two utility meters correctly reflect the energy I consumed? **Briefly, yes. -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au |
Reply |
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Phases? | UK diy | |||
Bad neutral on 220VAC from pole to house. Every appliance ruined. | Home Repair | |||
Phases of Redecoration | UK diy | |||
4 gauge neutral wire doesn't fit in my neutral bus panel? | Home Repair | |||
Council planning 8.5m extension to neighbour's house. Can we get recompense for any loss in property value? | UK diy |