Fooling with a laser. I need to hook up some fancy controllers.
Looks like a thermistor in there with currently broken leads.
I wanted to see how much heat a 400-500 mw would generate, and
I guess its about that. I found the peltier element cooling backwards, but
then I thought its probably trying to heat up the laser which I had disconnected.
I should try it with the thermistor hooked up. Got some Newport equipment
to hook, and aparently there is no other feedback photodiode. That was
my main concern at this point.

greg

(GregS) writes:

Fooling with a laser. I need to hook up some fancy controllers.
Looks like a thermistor in there with currently broken leads.
I wanted to see how much heat a 400-500 mw would generate, and
I guess its about that. I found the peltier element cooling backwards, but
then I thought its probably trying to heat up the laser which I had disconnected.
I should try it with the thermistor hooked up. Got some Newport equipment
to hook, and aparently there is no other feedback photodiode. That was
my main concern at this point.

Huh?

--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
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| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

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In article , (Samuel M. Goldwasser) wrote:
(GregS) writes:

Fooling with a laser. I need to hook up some fancy controllers.
Looks like a thermistor in there with currently broken leads.
I wanted to see how much heat a 400-500 mw would generate, and
I guess its about that. I found the peltier element cooling backwards, but
then I thought its probably trying to heat up the laser which I had
disconnected.
I should try it with the thermistor hooked up. Got some Newport equipment
to hook, and aparently there is no other feedback photodiode. That was
my main concern at this point.

Huh?


Well I wanted to get comments on laser opperating temperature.
I know another unit warmed up the laser before it turned
on. I had to first check out the wiring to see what kind of configuration
it had. I really don'e want to take the laser assembly apart
because not sure how it assembled. I was tring to get some kind
of part number off the laser. The cheap units have too much noise.
The end result is to get a brighter laser later with possible slightly
different wavelength and use these controllers. Right now this is just a test.


greg

In article , (GregS) wrote:
In article , (Samuel M.
Goldwasser) wrote:
(GregS) writes:

Inembly
apart to see the parts. I don't know if it glued or screwed. The lens
is screwed and glued, but I don't want to fool with the focus
right now. I don't know if I can measure the laser current, but
I think I will try, and get all the current parameters before hooking
up the other controllers.

The opperating temperature of the current laser is above room
temperature.


Current conditions.

29 deg C
2 A
1.78 v
1.49 v idle

greg

In article , (GregS) wrote:
In article ,
(GregS) wrote:
In article , (Samuel M.
Goldwasser) wrote:
(GregS) writes:

Inembly
apart to see the parts. I don't know if it glued or screwed. The lens
is screwed and glued, but I don't want to fool with the focus
right now. I don't know if I can measure the laser current, but
I think I will try, and get all the current parameters before hooking
up the other controllers.

The opperating temperature of the current laser is above room
temperature.


Current conditions.

29 deg C
2 A
1.78 v
1.49 v idle


Its working with the new controllers. I didn't need to know much
other than what the previous settings were. If I were selecting
a new diode, then I should know a lot more.

greg

(GregS) writes:

In article , (GregS) wrote:
In article ,
(GregS) wrote:
In article , (Samuel M.
Goldwasser) wrote:
(GregS) writes:

Inembly
apart to see the parts. I don't know if it glued or screwed. The lens
is screwed and glued, but I don't want to fool with the focus
right now. I don't know if I can measure the laser current, but
I think I will try, and get all the current parameters before hooking
up the other controllers.

The opperating temperature of the current laser is above room
temperature.


Current conditions.

29 deg C
2 A
1.78 v
1.49 v idle


Its working with the new controllers. I didn't need to know much
other than what the previous settings were. If I were selecting
a new diode, then I should know a lot more.

You can safely adjust the temperature to see if that gets more
output power but you should NOT increase the diode current beyond
what it is now.

--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

In article , (Samuel M. Goldwasser) wrote:
(GregS) writes:

In article ,
(GregS) wrote:
In article ,

(GregS) wrote:
In article , (Samuel M.
Goldwasser) wrote:
(GregS) writes:

Inembly
apart to see the parts. I don't know if it glued or screwed. The lens
is screwed and glued, but I don't want to fool with the focus
right now. I don't know if I can measure the laser current, but
I think I will try, and get all the current parameters before hooking
up the other controllers.

The opperating temperature of the current laser is above room
temperature.


Current conditions.

29 deg C
2 A
1.78 v
1.49 v idle


Its working with the new controllers. I didn't need to know much
other than what the previous settings were. If I were selecting
a new diode, then I should know a lot more.

You can safely adjust the temperature to see if that gets more
output power but you should NOT increase the diode current beyond
what it is now.

According to the researcher, they need more power for the confocal device.

greg

(GregS) writes:

In article , (Samuel M. Goldwasser) wrote:
(GregS) writes:

In article ,
(GregS) wrote:
In article ,

(GregS) wrote:
In article , (Samuel M.
Goldwasser) wrote:
(GregS) writes:

Inembly
apart to see the parts. I don't know if it glued or screwed. The lens
is screwed and glued, but I don't want to fool with the focus
right now. I don't know if I can measure the laser current, but
I think I will try, and get all the current parameters before hooking
up the other controllers.

The opperating temperature of the current laser is above room
temperature.


Current conditions.

29 deg C
2 A
1.78 v
1.49 v idle


Its working with the new controllers. I didn't need to know much
other than what the previous settings were. If I were selecting
a new diode, then I should know a lot more.

You can safely adjust the temperature to see if that gets more
output power but you should NOT increase the diode current beyond
what it is now.

According to the researcher, they need more power for the confocal device.

Doesn't matter. Unless you know for sure that the pump diode can
take higher current, you may end up with an output of exactly 0.0 mW.

--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.