In this case someone has been moving all 12AX7 type tubes around and forcing
them in or something. Anyway pins are bent and drunken and deforming the
sockets. Any tips for straightening ? A brass block with precisely
engineered holes to push back all into alignment ? a metal cylinder with 9
peripheral axial channels to go inside the pinning and something to run
around on the outer sides of the pins ?


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

In article , "N_Cook" wrote:
In this case someone has been moving all 12AX7 type tubes around and forcing
them in or something. Anyway pins are bent and drunken and deforming the
sockets. Any tips for straightening ? A brass block with precisely
engineered holes to push back all into alignment ? a metal cylinder with 9
peripheral axial channels to go inside the pinning and something to run
around on the outer sides of the pins ?


Seems like too much work to make one. Heres some ideas...

http://tinyurl.com/72bx7d

On Mon, 12 Jan 2009 20:35:11 -0000, N_Cook wrote:
In this case someone has been moving all 12AX7 type tubes around and forcing
them in or something. Anyway pins are bent and drunken and deforming the
sockets. Any tips for straightening ? A brass block with precisely
engineered holes to push back all into alignment ? a metal cylinder with 9
peripheral axial channels to go inside the pinning and something to run
around on the outer sides of the pins ?

These things exist. e.g.:
http://www.fairradio.com/catalog.php...1418&mode=view
Just up from the very bottom of the page.

GFGI for [ "7-pin" "9-pin" straightener ]

No comment on this: http://www.stevenjohnson.com/tubepinst.htm

Jonesy
--
Marvin L Jones | jonz | W3DHJ | linux
38.24N 104.55W | @ config.com | Jonesy | OS/2
* Killfiling google & XXXXbanter.com: jonz.net/ng.htm

N_Cook wrote:

In this case someone has been moving all 12AX7 type tubes around and
forcing them in or something. Anyway pins are bent and drunken and
deforming the sockets. Any tips for straightening ? A brass block with
precisely engineered holes to push back all into alignment ? a metal
cylinder with 9 peripheral axial channels to go inside the pinning and
something to run around on the outer sides of the pins ?


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

Here in the Colonies, every drugstore had a free tube tester which
had pin-straighteners: steel disks with 7 or 9 holes flared at the
top to accept pins and nudge them back into position. That was
about 40 years ago. As I recall, straighteners were also available
as buy-your-own tools.

"Bryce" wrote in message
...
N_Cook wrote:

In this case someone has been moving all 12AX7 type tubes around and
forcing them in or something. Anyway pins are bent and drunken and
deforming the sockets. Any tips for straightening ? A brass block with
precisely engineered holes to push back all into alignment ? a metal
cylinder with 9 peripheral axial channels to go inside the pinning and
something to run around on the outer sides of the pins ?


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

Here in the Colonies, every drugstore had a free tube tester which
had pin-straighteners: steel disks with 7 or 9 holes flared at the
top to accept pins and nudge them back into position. That was
about 40 years ago. As I recall, straighteners were also available
as buy-your-own tools.

Many times I found a pair of long nosed pliers adequate.

Allodoxaphobia wrote in message
...
On Mon, 12 Jan 2009 20:35:11 -0000, N_Cook wrote:
In this case someone has been moving all 12AX7 type tubes around and
forcing
them in or something. Anyway pins are bent and drunken and deforming the
sockets. Any tips for straightening ? A brass block with precisely
engineered holes to push back all into alignment ? a metal cylinder with
9
peripheral axial channels to go inside the pinning and something to run
around on the outer sides of the pins ?

These things exist. e.g.:
http://www.fairradio.com/catalog.php...1418&mode=view
Just up from the very bottom of the page.

GFGI for [ "7-pin" "9-pin" straightener ]

No comment on this: http://www.stevenjohnson.com/tubepinst.htm

Jonesy
--
Marvin L Jones | jonz | W3DHJ | linux
38.24N 104.55W | @ config.com | Jonesy | OS/2
* Killfiling google & XXXXbanter.com: jonz.net/ng.htm

From that collection, my idea for non-engineered tool.
I will try a ring of 9 Souriau connector pins (just the right bore ) on the
pins of a brand new valve, setting the pins in heat settable fire-cement.
Then use preceeded by individual pin straightening with parallel jaw pliers.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

N_Cook wrote:


From that collection, my idea for non-engineered tool.
I will try a ring of 9 Souriau connector pins (just the right bore ) on the
pins of a brand new valve, setting the pins in heat settable fire-cement.
Then use preceeded by individual pin straightening with parallel jaw pliers.

I hate to see you go through all that rot...unless you're just wanting
to be creative I have a 7 and 9 pin straightener socket screwed to
my bench shelf that I'll send you free for the cost of postage. They
don't get much use in my shack. Let me know.

-Bill

Allodoxaphobia wrote in
:

On Mon, 12 Jan 2009 20:35:11 -0000, N_Cook wrote:
In this case someone has been moving all 12AX7 type tubes around and
forcing them in or something. Anyway pins are bent and drunken and
deforming the sockets. Any tips for straightening ? A brass block
with precisely engineered holes to push back all into alignment ? a
metal cylinder with 9 peripheral axial channels to go inside the
pinning and something to run around on the outer sides of the pins ?

These things exist. e.g.:
http://www.fairradio.com/catalog.php...1418&mode=view
Just up from the very bottom of the page.

GFGI for [ "7-pin" "9-pin" straightener ]

No comment on this: http://www.stevenjohnson.com/tubepinst.htm

Jonesy

old tube testers used to have metal pin strighteners.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

"N_Cook" wrote in message
...
In this case someone has been moving all 12AX7 type tubes around and
forcing
them in or something. Anyway pins are bent and drunken and deforming the
sockets. Any tips for straightening ? A brass block with precisely
engineered holes to push back all into alignment ? a metal cylinder with 9
peripheral axial channels to go inside the pinning and something to run
around on the outer sides of the pins ?


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/



Years ago when I was a TV engineer with a rental company, I had a pin
straightner / valve remover in my toolkit. At one end, it had a 'pseudo' B9A
valveholder one side, made from some kind of hard plastic - maybe bakelite
even, with slightly 'coned' entries to the pin holes, and a B7G holder back
to back with it. These were used to straighten pins. This part of the tool
was then attached to a soft(ish) plastic tube, slightly conical in shape.
When you had to change a valve in an awkward place, such as at the front of
an old turret tuner, especially when it was mounted upside down, you just
pushed the tool over the valve and then pulled. The softness of the plastic
gripped the glass of the valve, probably assisted by vacuum, and out it
came. The replacement valve could be fitted by first inserting it into the
plastic tube, and then using it as an extension to your fingers to manoeuvre
it into the valve holder. Once in place, the tool could be gently rocked and
removed, leaving the valve in place. I have a vague suspicion that this tool
was actually supplied by Mullard, but I could be wrong there. I have a clear
memory of it being a baby blue colour. Happy days ...

Arfa

Arfa Daily wrote:
I have a vague suspicion that this tool was actually supplied
by Mullard, but I could be wrong there. I have a clear memory
of it being a baby blue colour. Happy days ...

*Rummages around in the "box-o-stuff" Ahhh, here we go.

Belling & Lee Ltd.
L1424
Made in England

Yuppers, baby blue, soft rubber with hard black 7 and
9 pin tube base inserts.

Jeff

On Mon, 12 Jan 2009 21:12:16 GMT, "Sudy Nim"
wrote:


"Bryce" wrote in message
...
N_Cook wrote:

In this case someone has been moving all 12AX7 type tubes around and
forcing them in or something. Anyway pins are bent and drunken and
deforming the sockets. Any tips for straightening ? A brass block with
precisely engineered holes to push back all into alignment ? a metal
cylinder with 9 peripheral axial channels to go inside the pinning and
something to run around on the outer sides of the pins ?


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

Here in the Colonies, every drugstore had a free tube tester which
had pin-straighteners: steel disks with 7 or 9 holes flared at the
top to accept pins and nudge them back into position. That was
about 40 years ago. As I recall, straighteners were also available
as buy-your-own tools.

Many times I found a pair of long nosed pliers adequate.

Me too.

I don't think i had much luck with those "straigteners" into which one
plugged the whole tube.

I had cases where the pins were so bent they couldn't get into the
all-pin thing, and I used needle nose, and they worked so well, I was
done.

On Mon, 12 Jan 2009 20:35:11 -0000, "N_Cook"
wrote:

In this case someone has been moving all 12AX7 type tubes around and forcing
them in or something. Anyway pins are bent and drunken and deforming the
sockets. Any tips for straightening ? A brass block with precisely
engineered holes to push back all into alignment ? a metal cylinder with 9
peripheral axial channels to go inside the pinning and something to run
around on the outer sides of the pins ?

They're being sold as antiques on eBay. Search for "pin
straightener". For example:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310087716127
You'll also find them mixed into tube/valve collections at hamfests
and flea markets. I have one somewhere.

Incidentally, in the bad old days of 16K and 64Kbit dynamic RAM, in
dual inline 14/16/18 pin packages, I had the same pin straightening
problem. I had a local machine shop fabricate a suitable IC pin
straightener.
http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/drivel/pin-staightener.jpg
I was planning on making my fortune selling these, but the
SIM/DIMM/SIP packages appeared, making DIP memory instantly obsolete.
Oh well.



--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Bill M wrote in message
...
N_Cook wrote:


From that collection, my idea for non-engineered tool.
I will try a ring of 9 Souriau connector pins (just the right bore ) on
the
pins of a brand new valve, setting the pins in heat settable
fire-cement.
Then use preceeded by individual pin straightening with parallel jaw
pliers.

I hate to see you go through all that rot...unless you're just wanting
to be creative I have a 7 and 9 pin straightener socket screwed to
my bench shelf that I'll send you free for the cost of postage. They
don't get much use in my shack. Let me know.

-Bill



You already own one and I don't, and I wish to get the pins straightened
today and the repair back out the door, as I need the space.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

"Jeffrey D Angus" wrote in message
...
Arfa Daily wrote:
I have a vague suspicion that this tool was actually supplied
by Mullard, but I could be wrong there. I have a clear memory
of it being a baby blue colour. Happy days ...

*Rummages around in the "box-o-stuff" Ahhh, here we go.

Belling & Lee Ltd.
L1424
Made in England

Yuppers, baby blue, soft rubber with hard black 7 and
9 pin tube base inserts.

Jeff

Ah well - after more than 35 years, I don't reckon that was too bad a bit of
memory on my part !! Not Mullard but Belling Lee. I knew it was someone
famous in the trade ! Might still have been actually distributed by Mullard
though ...

Arfa

"Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 12 Jan 2009 20:35:11 -0000, "N_Cook"
wrote:

In this case someone has been moving all 12AX7 type tubes around and
forcing
them in or something. Anyway pins are bent and drunken and deforming the
sockets. Any tips for straightening ? A brass block with precisely
engineered holes to push back all into alignment ? a metal cylinder with 9
peripheral axial channels to go inside the pinning and something to run
around on the outer sides of the pins ?

They're being sold as antiques on eBay. Search for "pin
straightener". For example:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310087716127
You'll also find them mixed into tube/valve collections at hamfests
and flea markets. I have one somewhere.

Incidentally, in the bad old days of 16K and 64Kbit dynamic RAM, in
dual inline 14/16/18 pin packages, I had the same pin straightening
problem. I had a local machine shop fabricate a suitable IC pin
straightener.
http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/drivel/pin-staightener.jpg
I was planning on making my fortune selling these, but the
SIM/DIMM/SIP packages appeared, making DIP memory instantly obsolete.
Oh well.



--
Jeff Liebermann


I still have a DIP IC pin straightner in my toolbox. It has a central
mandrel which is spaced for standard DIPs - your common 14 or 16 pin logic
ICs for instance - on one side, and for wide DIPs like EPROMs, on the other.
Either side, is a spring loaded arm, with a shoulder made to butt against
the mandrel when the tool is squeezed closed in your hand. Made from hard
blue plastic, it is a bit like one of those squeezy hand muscle exercisers
or stress relievers. You simple drop your IC with snaggled pins, over the
appropriate mandrel, and squeeze. When you let go, your pins are back in
line. Obviously, it only corrects pitch on the wide axis, but if the pins
are out of line with respect to each other, you can quickly correct that
with needle nosed pliers. A most useful tool, which has seen much service
over the 25 years that I have owned it.

Arfa

N_Cook wrote in message
...
Allodoxaphobia wrote in message
...
On Mon, 12 Jan 2009 20:35:11 -0000, N_Cook wrote:
In this case someone has been moving all 12AX7 type tubes around and
forcing
them in or something. Anyway pins are bent and drunken and deforming
the
sockets. Any tips for straightening ? A brass block with precisely
engineered holes to push back all into alignment ? a metal cylinder
with
9
peripheral axial channels to go inside the pinning and something to
run
around on the outer sides of the pins ?

These things exist. e.g.:
http://www.fairradio.com/catalog.php...1418&mode=view
Just up from the very bottom of the page.

GFGI for [ "7-pin" "9-pin" straightener ]

No comment on this: http://www.stevenjohnson.com/tubepinst.htm

Jonesy
--
Marvin L Jones | jonz | W3DHJ | linux
38.24N 104.55W | @ config.com | Jonesy | OS/2
* Killfiling google & XXXXbanter.com: jonz.net/ng.htm

From that collection, my idea for non-engineered tool.
I will try a ring of 9 Souriau connector pins (just the right bore ) on
the
pins of a brand new valve, setting the pins in heat settable fire-cement.
Then use preceeded by individual pin straightening with parallel jaw
pliers.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/





A 20 minute job making a straightener and pins are now sober. It would have
taken that to track down a UK supplier and order one and then 3 days at
least.
Also my method could be used for non-standard pinnings


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

I just tried googling
valve pin "straightening tool" site:co.uk
nothing found

They're available in the US. Here's a current eBay auction for one...

http://cgi.ebay.com/Pin-Straightener...QQcmdZViewItem

"N_Cook" writes:

Bill M wrote in message
...
N_Cook wrote:


From that collection, my idea for non-engineered tool.
I will try a ring of 9 Souriau connector pins (just the right bore ) on
the
pins of a brand new valve, setting the pins in heat settable
fire-cement.
Then use preceeded by individual pin straightening with parallel jaw
pliers.

I hate to see you go through all that rot...unless you're just wanting
to be creative I have a 7 and 9 pin straightener socket screwed to
my bench shelf that I'll send you free for the cost of postage. They
don't get much use in my shack. Let me know.

-Bill


You already own one and I don't, and I wish to get the pins straightened
today and the repair back out the door, as I need the space.

Geez, how many techs or engineers does it take to straighten a few pins???

I'd just go with a fine tipped needlenose and be done with it in 5 minutes.
Or if you want to get fancy, a thin rod with an appropriately sized hole
drill in it!

--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

On Mon, 12 Jan 2009 22:21:35 -0000, "N_Cook"
wrote:

setting the pins in heat settable fire-cement.

That 'fire-cement' doesn't ring a bell here in the US, have a brand
name I could look up? Sounds like an interesting product.

PeterD wrote in message
...
On Mon, 12 Jan 2009 22:21:35 -0000, "N_Cook"
wrote:

setting the pins in heat settable fire-cement.

That 'fire-cement' doesn't ring a bell here in the US, have a brand
name I could look up? Sounds like an interesting product.

I use both types for all sorts of uses.
But mainly the heat setting type as its cheaper for bulk use compared to
epoxy and it of course takes heat. It can crack so reinforce with car repair
glass fibre/fiber mesh if that is critical.
Recently bought, as I used up the previous 1Kg, tub of the heat setting type
called Pyrum fire cement, so still sold in the UK.
To cure, I use a hot air gun on a low setting for an initial surface
hardening , as in this straightener job. Removed the valves (I used one at
either end of the pins when it came to it, each covered with ptfe tape to
keep the valves clean) after intial surface set. Then heat up at full whack
to fully harden the resin , its then as hard as stone in a few minutes.

The other type , non setting, trade name may not exist any more Hermetite
flue jointing compound. Mine is probably 20 years old but still useable. I
tend to only use it when I've robbed a right V & W halogen bulb from one
dicroic mount and are having to, suck it and see, adjusting the position in
another size/shape of reflector, also robbed.

If you find a USA trade or generic name and post back here, I will add to my
UK/USA technical translator file
http://www.divdev.fsnet.co.uk/tool_terms.htm


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

should be

Pyruma fire cement


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

N_Cook wrote:
should be

Pyruma fire cement

Crikey! do they still make that? When I was a kid it was promoted in
kids comics and the 'Railwaymodeller' for making models, it came in tins
with press on lids - that takes me back.

I spose the modern equivelent would be DAS modelling clay.

Ron(UK)

Needle-nose pliers.

Chain-nose pliers would be even better.

"Meat Plow" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 13 Jan 2009 10:02:05 -0800, "William Sommerwerck"
wrote:

Needle-nose pliers.

Chain-nose pliers would be even better.

Don't have a pair.

You probably do. Most people call chain-nose pliers needle nose.

On 2009-01-13 09:43:32 -0700, Ron said:

N_Cook wrote:
should be

Pyruma fire cement

Crikey! do they still make that? When I was a kid it was promoted in
kids comics and the 'Railwaymodeller' for making models, it came in
tins with press on lids - that takes me back.


Heh, they still make Wood's Metal also. I have some radio books dating
back to the early 1900's talking about setting galena in Wood's Metal
as not to ruin the crystal.

Thanks to the magic of the Internet, nearly everything is available!

Joe

On Jan 13, 12:17*am, Jeffrey D Angus wrote:
Arfa Daily wrote:
I have a vague suspicion that this tool was actually supplied
by Mullard, but I could be wrong there. I have a clear memory
of it being a baby blue colour. Happy days ...

*Rummages around in the "box-o-stuff" Ahhh, here we go.

Belling & Lee Ltd.
L1424
Made in England

Yuppers, baby blue, soft rubber with hard black 7 and
9 pin tube base inserts.

Jeff
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
..
Nah! I gotta one; somewhere, for small tubes/valves with 'pins in
glass' bases. 6C4, 12BE6, 6BZ7, 12AU7 etc.
Left over from me TV fixing days in the mid 1950s. And it's green
metal. Cost around 65 cents (about 30 p?) back then if I recall.
B7G one end and B9A t'other end IIRC. Tube suppliers would sometimes
have them as 'giveaways' if you bought a lotta tubes.
Smaller than a spool of thread/reel of cotton. (Depending on which
form of H'english you speaks!).
As mentioned the entry to each pin is slightly 'coned' or concaved to
guide a a bent pin into position.
Used too aggressively it could break the glass tube base.
Have fun.

"William Sommerwerck" wrote in message
...
"Meat Plow" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 13 Jan 2009 10:02:05 -0800, "William Sommerwerck"
wrote:

Needle-nose pliers.

Chain-nose pliers would be even better.

Don't have a pair.

You probably do. Most people call chain-nose pliers needle nose.


True, but you can't call all needle-nose pliers chain-nose. Correct me if
I'm wrong, but chain-nose pliers are usually small and usually used for fine
work like jewelry making, or other delicate work. Don't they also usually
have smooth jaws or so as not to damage soft metals?

You can call those little ones "needle-nose" pliers, but you can't call a
big heavy duty 12" pair of needle-nose pliers "chain-nose".

You really need both. I used needle-nose to straighten pins.

On Jan 15, 8:56*pm, "Unrevealed Source"
wrote:
"William Sommerwerck" wrote in message

...

"Meat Plow" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 13 Jan 2009 10:02:05 -0800, "William Sommerwerck"
wrote:

Needle-nose pliers.

Chain-nose pliers would be even better.

Don't have a pair.

You probably do. Most people call chain-nose pliers needle nose.

True, but you can't call all needle-nose pliers chain-nose. * Correct me if
I'm wrong, but chain-nose pliers are usually small and usually used for fine
work like jewelry making, or other delicate work. *Don't they also usually
have smooth jaws or so as not to damage soft metals?

You can call those little ones "needle-nose" pliers, but you can't call a
big heavy duty 12" pair of needle-nose pliers "chain-nose".

You really need both. *I used needle-nose to straighten pins.

Needle-nose pliers: Flat-inside, half-round outside (D-shaped),
extended nose jaws, typically with tip serrated and a side-cutter.

Smooth-jaw needle-nose: as above, but no serrated tip and no cutter.

Chain-nose: Round jaws (O-shaped), no serrated tip, no cutter.

All of the above come as "bent-nose" with either a 45 or 90 degree
bend.

All of the above irrespective of size.

Then, there are specialties within the group such as 'tip-
cutter' (cutter at the tip of the jaws) and extended-jaw (jaws longer
than handle, but still irrespective of size), even parallel-jaw
(double jointed at the knuckle so they jaws remain parallel when
opening and closing) and box-knuckle (joint).

I spent a few shifts in the tool-room in my time - and between
fetching buckets of air and carbon-stretchers all these fine
distinctions became second-nature.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

Needle-nose pliers.

Chain-nose pliers would be even better.

Don't have a pair.

You probably do. Most people call chain-nose pliers needle nose.

True, but you can't call all needle-nose pliers chain-nose. Correct me
if
I'm wrong, but chain-nose pliers are usually small and usually used for
fine
work like jewelry making, or other delicate work. Don't they also usually
have smooth jaws or so as not to damage soft metals?

You can call those little ones "needle-nose" pliers, but you can't call a
big heavy duty 12" pair of needle-nose pliers "chain-nose".

You really need both. I used needle-nose to straighten pins.

I meant that many people /mistakenly/ call chain-nose pliers needle-nose.

Damn-it, Peter. Now I have to go buy more tools. The parallel-jaw pliers
sound like they would come in handy. I already knew I needed a set of what
you've labeled "extended jaw" pliers.


"Peter Wieck" wrote in message
...
On Jan 15, 8:56 pm, "Unrevealed Source"
wrote:
"William Sommerwerck" wrote in message

...

"Meat Plow" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 13 Jan 2009 10:02:05 -0800, "William Sommerwerck"
wrote:

Needle-nose pliers.

Chain-nose pliers would be even better.

Don't have a pair.

You probably do. Most people call chain-nose pliers needle nose.

True, but you can't call all needle-nose pliers chain-nose. Correct me if
I'm wrong, but chain-nose pliers are usually small and usually used for
fine
work like jewelry making, or other delicate work. Don't they also usually
have smooth jaws or so as not to damage soft metals?

You can call those little ones "needle-nose" pliers, but you can't call a
big heavy duty 12" pair of needle-nose pliers "chain-nose".

You really need both. I used needle-nose to straighten pins.

Needle-nose pliers: Flat-inside, half-round outside (D-shaped),
extended nose jaws, typically with tip serrated and a side-cutter.

Smooth-jaw needle-nose: as above, but no serrated tip and no cutter.

Chain-nose: Round jaws (O-shaped), no serrated tip, no cutter.

All of the above come as "bent-nose" with either a 45 or 90 degree
bend.

All of the above irrespective of size.

Then, there are specialties within the group such as 'tip-
cutter' (cutter at the tip of the jaws) and extended-jaw (jaws longer
than handle, but still irrespective of size), even parallel-jaw
(double jointed at the knuckle so they jaws remain parallel when
opening and closing) and box-knuckle (joint).

I spent a few shifts in the tool-room in my time - and between
fetching buckets of air and carbon-stretchers all these fine
distinctions became second-nature.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

O
Chain-nose: Round jaws (O-shaped), no serrated tip, no cutter.

just to throw another cherry bomb in the fire, those are generally
called duck-bill liars around here.

John

Peter Wieck wrote:

I spent a few shifts in the tool-room in my time - and between
fetching buckets of air and carbon-stretchers all these fine
distinctions became second-nature.

What? No requests to fetch sky hooks or left-handed monkey wrenches? :-)

Peter Wieck wrote:

snip
I spent a few shifts in the tool-room in my time - and between
fetching buckets of air and carbon-stretchers...

I wonder how widespread is the usage of such mythical terms; I had
a friend who labeled boxes of unknown (mostly hardware) components
"muffler bearings", and another who routinely castigated incompetent
parts buyers saying of them "he doesn't know modems from manhole
covers".

How about some more of these?

Michael

On Jan 17, 10:04*am, Carter wrote:
Peter Wieck wrote:
I spent a few shifts in the tool-room in my time - and between
fetching buckets of air and carbon-stretchers all these fine
distinctions became second-nature.

What? No requests to fetch sky hooks or left-handed monkey wrenches? * :-)

Um.... Monkey wrenches do come in "hands". And ambidexterous (self-
adjusting). It has to do with the hand of the thread, guys - not the
jaw side. Lest you think I am kidding: Lot 666 (interesting lot
number, as well:

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...%3Den%26sa%3DG


http://library.duke.edu/digitalcolle...T2855-lrg.jpeg

As well.

And, I was waiting for this one to come along ;-)

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

On Jan 17, 10:04*am, Carter wrote:
Peter Wieck wrote:
I spent a few shifts in the tool-room in my time - and between
fetching buckets of air and carbon-stretchers all these fine
distinctions became second-nature.

What? No requests to fetch sky hooks or left-handed monkey wrenches? * :-)

Forgot this one:

http://www.campmor.com/outdoor/gear/Product___80488

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

"msg" wrote in message
...
Peter Wieck wrote:

snip
I spent a few shifts in the tool-room in my time - and between
fetching buckets of air and carbon-stretchers...

I wonder how widespread is the usage of such mythical terms; I had
a friend who labeled boxes of unknown (mostly hardware) components
"muffler bearings", and another who routinely castigated incompetent
parts buyers saying of them "he doesn't know modems from manhole
covers".

How about some more of these?

Michael

We used to send apprentices for rubber hammer and glass nails, and also for
a long weight ... I also used to work with a wonderful old boy called Norman
who used to tell little old ladies who asked what was wrong with their TV
set so that they could tell their husbands when they got home that he had
had to "move the hyposthphosphicator two degrees nearer to the ecliptant in
order to improve the impactic contact". It took me years to learn that
properly, and I've never forgotten it, or how he could say it to customers
with a totally straight face. Another guy that I have done work for in the
past, used to bill fuses as "glass encapsulated surge protection devices"
:-)

Arfa

Arfa Daily wrote:

snip

hyposthphosphicator

Sounds like something Sylvester the Cat would say (or try to). I'd like
to hear an audio clip of this word spoken; how about a wav file? (Linus
Torvald's pronunciation of 'linux' is still floating around the 'Net).

Michael

msg wrote in message
...
Arfa Daily wrote:

snip

hyposthphosphicator

Sounds like something Sylvester the Cat would say (or try to). I'd like
to hear an audio clip of this word spoken; how about a wav file? (Linus
Torvald's pronunciation of 'linux' is still floating around the 'Net).

Michael



I could never find out what an interocitor was, appearing in sci-films of
yore. Now older and wiser I know it is Mcguffin-like as was Spike Milligan's
cans of Snibbo.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

I could never find out what an interocitor was...

"Stand back... Further, please..."

It's from "This Island Earth", a silly film with a few nice moments. Rex
Reason makes a good alien. ("Mozart? Ah, yes... Your composer.")

In the animated version of "The Coneheads", Beldar communicates with the
home world using an interocitor.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/This_Island_Earth_(film)

Note how the poster anticipates the "Forbidden Planet" poster.

I've only read part of the original novel, which appeared to be (surprise!)
superior to the movie. The upcoming remake will hopefully be a significant
improvement.

http://www.dvdtalk.com/dvdsavant/s2655rema.html