One of those small external switch mode m ps units , specific to a piece of
kit. Fully working order but the black sectored/vaned conical "protector "
is cracked, the cable seems ok at this stage.
Anyone have a neat beefing-up procedure, to avoid inevitable deteriation ?

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

On Jan 7, 6:12*am, "N Cook" wrote:
One of those small external switch mode m ps units , specific to a piece of
kit. Fully working order but the black sectored/vaned conical "protector "
is cracked

Yeah, this is why I hate 'welded shut for your protection' power
units. Yours has a fractured strain relief boot, I gather.

First, you can knife-trim away any disconnected part of the boot,
'cuz it's just a cable stiffener if it doesn't transfer strain to the
case.
Then you can build up some material using fusion tape (self-
adhering rubbery tape, used for weatherproofing splices).

If the power unit can be opened, you could try to remove the boot
entirely and replace it with (for instance) a short piece of vinyl
(Tygon brand is what we see here) tubing, held in place with
cable ties. If the tubing doesn't friction-fit in the hole, bulk it
up
with a wrap of fusion tape. This kind of solution might not
maintain your warranty, of course.

If appearance isn't important, I've also bent back the cable along the
case and cable-tied it to the case; there won't be any
more cable strain on the boot now! That looks ugly and shortens
the wire, but it's safe and quick. No warranty worries.

whit3rd wrote in message
...
On Jan 7, 6:12 am, "N Cook" wrote:
One of those small external switch mode m ps units , specific to a piece
of
kit. Fully working order but the black sectored/vaned conical "protector "
is cracked

Yeah, this is why I hate 'welded shut for your protection' power
units. Yours has a fractured strain relief boot, I gather.

First, you can knife-trim away any disconnected part of the boot,
'cuz it's just a cable stiffener if it doesn't transfer strain to the
case.
Then you can build up some material using fusion tape (self-
adhering rubbery tape, used for weatherproofing splices).

If the power unit can be opened, you could try to remove the boot
entirely and replace it with (for instance) a short piece of vinyl
(Tygon brand is what we see here) tubing, held in place with
cable ties. If the tubing doesn't friction-fit in the hole, bulk it
up
with a wrap of fusion tape. This kind of solution might not
maintain your warranty, of course.

reply:
Both ends of the DC cable were affected.
The less mangled end I just slid some heatshrink over and heated , with the
sleeving contracting into the webs, but a lot stiffer than was.

The other end I split a BNC cable entry protector and filled the gap and web
gaps with black hotmelt glue , then heatshrink over thick form plummers PTFE
tape, heated and then cut off the PTFE and sleeving. Looked quite neat but
again very much stiffer of course.

Whether the cable will break at the new sort of pivot point, not rigid but
then not as soft as the sectored webs/vanes, time will tell but at least it
will not fail at the original position which must have been weakened , even
if not obviously so.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/