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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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#1
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Soldering iron problems
Do some practicing with other things first. A few things:
- As someone pointed out, you may have lead-free solder, which has a higher melting point. But you should use it for the repair, since the connector probably has the same stuff already on it. - There may be an invisible coating on the soldering iron tip, or it may not be properly tinned. The last couple of mm of the tip should have a coating of melted solder, applied by you. - Some coaxial connectors have a nickel (?) coating that is hard to solder. Using fine sandpaper on them really helps, as does a rotary wire brush. Your soldering iron looks fine (low-end, of course). Is the tip tightly attached? Try loosening and retightening the screw while it is hot (use care). |
#2
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Soldering iron problems
On Jun 12, 8:06 pm, "mc" wrote:
Do some practicing with other things first. A few things: - As someone pointed out, you may have lead-free solder, which has a higher melting point. But you should use it for the repair, since the connector probably has the same stuff already on it. - There may be an invisible coating on the soldering iron tip, or it may not be properly tinned. The last couple of mm of the tip should have a coating of melted solder, applied by you. - Some coaxial connectors have a nickel (?) coating that is hard to solder. Using fine sandpaper on them really helps, as does a rotary wire brush. Your soldering iron looks fine (low-end, of course). Is the tip tightly attached? Try loosening and retightening the screw while it is hot (use care). Mass is more important that wattage. BH |
#3
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Soldering iron problems
I'm just trying to desolder the existing joints at the moment.
Ah. They may have a clear plastic coating. Your soldering iron looks fine (low-end, of course). Is the tip tightly attached? Try loosening and retightening the screw while it is hot (use care). It's back in the packaging. Don't think swapping it for a 50W iron is a better idea? How about a flat tip instead of fine point? 30W is plenty for electronics; 15W would do. |
#4
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Soldering iron problems
On Jun 12, 8:33 pm, Antony Gelberg wrote:
On 2007-06-13, BH wrote: On Jun 12, 8:06 pm, "mc" wrote: Do some practicing with other things first. A few things: - As someone pointed out, you may have lead-free solder, which has a higher melting point. But you should use it for the repair, since the connector probably has the same stuff already on it. - There may be an invisible coating on the soldering iron tip, or it may not be properly tinned. The last couple of mm of the tip should have a coating of melted solder, applied by you. - Some coaxial connectors have a nickel (?) coating that is hard to solder. Using fine sandpaper on them really helps, as does a rotary wire brush. Your soldering iron looks fine (low-end, of course). Is the tip tightly attached? Try loosening and retightening the screw while it is hot (use care). Mass is more important that wattage. Mass of the tip, correct?- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Correct |
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