I own an early 1970's Amana Radarange (with the analog dials and all
chrome front). It still works great but the window is all clouded and
dirty inside. I have a replacement I'd like to use. Here's my
problem... I can't remove those "safety" screws they used on the
door!
And I can't seem to find any tools that will work either. These are
not regular "safety screws" but look like something specially
designed
BY Amana. I plan on replacing them with normal screws if I can just
get the old ones out. Does anybody know where I can find the proper
tool for removing those screws?
Bryan

Here's a photo of what the screws look like:
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i9...g?t=1171060535
It's not a "tri-wing". The center part is raised. It seems like the
tool would need to be a hollow piece (like a socket) with 3 notches
on
the sides to grab on to the screws. That's what I need.
Bryan

wrote:
Here's a photo of what the screws look like:
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i9...g?t=1171060535
It's not a "tri-wing". The center part is raised. It seems like the
tool would need to be a hollow piece (like a socket) with 3 notches
on
the sides to grab on to the screws. That's what I need.
Bryan


I would suggest using an old socket or small pipe and grind away part to
form three post that fit the head of the screw.

Tim writes:

wrote:
Here's a photo of what the screws look like:
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i9...g?t=1171060535
It's not a "tri-wing". The center part is raised. It seems like the
tool would need to be a hollow piece (like a socket) with 3 notches
on
the sides to grab on to the screws. That's what I need.
Bryan

I would suggest using an old socket or small pipe and grind away part
to form three post that fit the head of the screw.

Yeah, those are a pain. What I did was to take one screw I had like that
and hammer a piece of pipe over it to form the inside of the pipe to the
three notches. But if you don't have another similar screw, I wouldn't recommend
doing this on the microwvae though as the vibration of hammering will not be
good for it!

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

wrote in message
ups.com...

Here's a photo of what the screws look like:
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i9...g?t=1171060535
It's not a "tri-wing". The center part is raised. It seems like the
tool would need to be a hollow piece (like a socket) with 3 notches
on the sides to grab on to the screws. That's what I need.

I looked at my collection of security bits - don't have that one. I'd take a
piece of 1/4" rod and saw and grind it to fit. You could also cut the tip
off a dollar store screwdriver and do the same.

On 9 Feb 2007 14:20:15 -0800, wrote:

I own an early 1970's Amana Radarange (with the analog dials and all
chrome front). It still works great but the window is all clouded and
dirty inside. I have a replacement I'd like to use. Here's my
problem... I can't remove those "safety" screws they used on the
door!
And I can't seem to find any tools that will work either. These are
not regular "safety screws" but look like something specially
designed
BY Amana. I plan on replacing them with normal screws if I can just
get the old ones out. Does anybody know where I can find the proper
tool for removing those screws?
Bryan

I managed to get those out once using small pliers. As soon as you
loosen them, they should come out easily.
Andy Cuffe

wrote in message
oups.com...
I own an early 1970's Amana Radarange (with the analog dials and all
chrome front). It still works great but the window is all clouded and
dirty inside. I have a replacement I'd like to use. Here's my
problem... I can't remove those "safety" screws they used on the
door!
And I can't seem to find any tools that will work either. These are
not regular "safety screws" but look like something specially
designed
BY Amana. I plan on replacing them with normal screws if I can just
get the old ones out. Does anybody know where I can find the proper
tool for removing those screws?
Bryan


http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...&BV_UseBVCooki
e=Yes

On 9 Feb, 22:20, wrote:

I own an early 1970's Amana Radarange (with the analog dials and all
chrome front). It still works great but the window is all clouded and
dirty inside. I have a replacement I'd like to use. Here's my
problem... I can't remove those "safety" screws they used on the
door!
And I can't seem to find any tools that will work either. These are
not regular "safety screws" but look like something specially
designed
BY Amana. I plan on replacing them with normal screws if I can just
get the old ones out. Does anybody know where I can find the proper
tool for removing those screws?
Bryan

a dremel with grinding disc will put a slot in the heads. But the
early 70s nukes are so lacking in safety features I'd replace it.


NT

wrote in message
oups.com...
I own an early 1970's Amana Radarange (with the analog dials and all
chrome front). It still works great but the window is all clouded and
dirty inside. I have a replacement I'd like to use. Here's my
problem... I can't remove those "safety" screws they used on the
door!
And I can't seem to find any tools that will work either. These are
not regular "safety screws" but look like something specially
designed
BY Amana. I plan on replacing them with normal screws if I can just
get the old ones out. Does anybody know where I can find the proper
tool for removing those screws?
Bryan


Will the central pin shear off with a pin punch and hammer, or a ball-mill ,
like those annoying IBM computer monitor central pip screw heads ?
Then lefthand drill and LH drill bit, then easyout if the drill itself does
not shift them, if fabricating a tri-wing screw-driver variant fails.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

wrote:
On 9 Feb, 22:20, wrote:


I own an early 1970's Amana Radarange (with the analog dials and all
chrome front). It still works great but the window is all clouded and
dirty inside. I have a replacement I'd like to use. Here's my
problem... I can't remove those "safety" screws they used on the
door!
And I can't seem to find any tools that will work either. These are
not regular "safety screws" but look like something specially
designed
BY Amana. I plan on replacing them with normal screws if I can just
get the old ones out. Does anybody know where I can find the proper
tool for removing those screws?
Bryan


a dremel with grinding disc will put a slot in the heads. But the
early 70s nukes are so lacking in safety features I'd replace it.


NT



What safety features? As far as I know, they had all the same interlocks
as modern ovens. Microwaves have not changed much in the last 30 years
other than cost reductions. Those old Amana microwaves are classic,
built like tanks and last forever. Wish I had one myself.

"James Sweet" wrote in message
news:P2ozh.1226$4_5.901@trnddc05...

What safety features? As far as I know, they had all the same interlocks
as modern ovens. Microwaves have not changed much in the last 30 years
other than cost reductions. Those old Amana microwaves are classic, built
like tanks and last forever. Wish I had one myself.

Ever checked one for leakage? ISTR they claimed to cook a chicken in 15
minutes or less. Not while I'm in the same room!

On Feb 10, 2:24 pm, "Homer J Simpson" wrote:
"James Sweet" wrote in message

news:P2ozh.1226$4_5.901@trnddc05...

What safety features? As far as I know, they had all the same interlocks
as modern ovens. Microwaves have not changed much in the last 30 years
other than cost reductions. Those old Amana microwaves are classic, built
like tanks and last forever. Wish I had one myself.

Ever checked one for leakage? ISTR they claimed to cook a chicken in 15
minutes or less. Not while I'm in the same room!

Amana wasn't the only manufacturer to build its microwaves solidly
and to last. I have a Sharp Carousel digital microwave I bought new
seven years ago. Still works very well in daily use, although I think
the door switches are either very dirty or starting to go bad--the
oven will sometimes shut off before the end of a timed cycle. Opening
and closing the door several times gets it going again.

BTW, I had relatives (now deceased) who owned a digital version of
the Amana Radarange (they must have bought it in the mid-1970s). I
don't think they had even one repair done on it in the 20-some years
they had it.

Microwaves have changed in the last thirty years, but the changes
have been minor, mostly to the control circuitry (most micros these
days have at least one microprocessor which runs the whole thing). The
old Amana Radaranges didn't have the instant-action keys most of
today's digital micros sport (my Sharp has nine such buttons on its
touch control panel), not to mention dedicated popcorn, beverage
reheat, minute plus, etc. Those mid-seventies Amanas with digital
controls had circuitry that was state-of-the-art at that time, but
which would be considered horribly outdated and obsolete.

BTW (2) : Microwaves with spring-wound dial timers can be had for
almost ridiculously low prices these days. For someone who rarely
uses a microwave oven, these are good, I guess, but for anyone who
puts their oven to daily use, I'd suggest getting a digital model with
touch controls. These aren't terribly expensive anymore (just a bit
more than the analog ovens) and will last longer. The dial timer will
eventually wear out in any of today's analog micros; in fact, it
wouldn't surprise me if the magnetron outlasts the timer in these
cheapies.

Jeff Strieble, WB8NHV (email addy not shown to deter spammers)
Fairport Harbor, Ohio USA

"Jeff, WB8NHV" wrote in message
ups.com...

BTW (2) : Microwaves with spring-wound dial timers can be had for
almost ridiculously low prices these days. For someone who rarely
uses a microwave oven, these are good, I guess, but for anyone who
puts their oven to daily use, I'd suggest getting a digital model with
touch controls. These aren't terribly expensive anymore (just a bit
more than the analog ovens) and will last longer. The dial timer will
eventually wear out in any of today's analog micros; in fact, it
wouldn't surprise me if the magnetron outlasts the timer in these
cheapies.

I bought a Sharp with the auto sensor. I highly recommend this model. The
Panasonic with variable power is nice but prone to failure and the
combination convection/microwave is a PITA to keep clean - buy a separate
convection oven.

Homer J Simpson wrote:
"James Sweet" wrote in message
news:P2ozh.1226$4_5.901@trnddc05...


What safety features? As far as I know, they had all the same interlocks
as modern ovens. Microwaves have not changed much in the last 30 years
other than cost reductions. Those old Amana microwaves are classic, built
like tanks and last forever. Wish I had one myself.


Ever checked one for leakage? ISTR they claimed to cook a chicken in 15
minutes or less. Not while I'm in the same room!




High cooking speed does not mean they were leaky. Commercial microwave
ovens are readily available with the same 1200W power rating. We had a
1200W Litton MinuteMaster for decades that would nuke a hotdog in 8
seconds flat. After many years of using that as a kid I've still got
eyeballs and no extra appendages.

On 10 Feb, 18:21, James Sweet wrote:
wrote:
On 9 Feb, 22:20, wrote:

a dremel with grinding disc will put a slot in the heads. But the
early 70s nukes are so lacking in safety features I'd replace it.

What safety features? As far as I know, they had all the same interlocks
as modern ovens. Microwaves have not changed much in the last 30 years
other than cost reductions.

We dont have Amana Radaranges here, so I'm talking early 70s nukes
generally here...

Carbon loaded rubber seals instead of modern choke door frames meant
much greater susceptibility to leakage. These oldies should, if used
at all, be leakage tested regularly.

Interlocks are the big safety issue. Modern ovens have 2 independantly
operated switches which apply a short across the mains if either
switch fails. Early 70s stuff didnt have that setup, just one switch
failure and you're cooked.

The worst models I've seen actually cooked with the door partway open
due to poor interlock design and misalignment, which is prone to
occurring.

Then theres the final safety issue of uneven heating. This causes
cases of food poisoning when cooking meat. In this respect nukes have
come a long way since the early 70s.

Is the radarange one with an open downwards door? If it is, thats a
safety issue too to some extent.

Its upto the OP of course, but if I had one that old I'd replace it.
Its the interlock issue that would concern me, have seen too many
machines with a bad switch go through the shorting trick to want to
trust a machine with no such protection.


NT

wrote in message
oups.com...

Interlocks are the big safety issue. Modern ovens have 2 independantly
operated switches which apply a short across the mains if either
switch fails. Early 70s stuff didnt have that setup, just one switch
failure and you're cooked.

The worst models I've seen actually cooked with the door partway open
due to poor interlock design and misalignment, which is prone to
occurring.

The one I saw in Alaska had a microwave built into a regular oven (in a
stove). Scared the crap out of me when I looked at how poorly the door
fitted.

We dont have Amana Radaranges here, so I'm talking early 70s nukes
generally here...

Carbon loaded rubber seals instead of modern choke door frames meant
much greater susceptibility to leakage. These oldies should, if used
at all, be leakage tested regularly.

Interlocks are the big safety issue. Modern ovens have 2 independantly
operated switches which apply a short across the mains if either
switch fails. Early 70s stuff didnt have that setup, just one switch
failure and you're cooked.

The worst models I've seen actually cooked with the door partway open
due to poor interlock design and misalignment, which is prone to
occurring.

Then theres the final safety issue of uneven heating. This causes
cases of food poisoning when cooking meat. In this respect nukes have
come a long way since the early 70s.

Is the radarange one with an open downwards door? If it is, thats a
safety issue too to some extent.

Its upto the OP of course, but if I had one that old I'd replace it.
Its the interlock issue that would concern me, have seen too many
machines with a bad switch go through the shorting trick to want to
trust a machine with no such protection.



The Amana ovens were top of the line, the Rolls-Royce of microwave
ovens. They were built like tanks, most had stainless interiors and real
glass windows in the doors. They were the first on the market and real
commercial quality units, my grandparents had one of these they paid a
small fortune for in the early 70s. I believe all microwaves sold in the
US have had multiple interlocks since the very start.

On 11 Feb, 06:41, James Sweet wrote:

The Amana ovens were top of the line, the Rolls-Royce of microwave
ovens. They were built like tanks, most had stainless interiors and real
glass windows in the doors. They were the first on the market and real
commercial quality units, my grandparents had one of these they paid a
small fortune for in the early 70s. I believe all microwaves sold in the
US have had multiple interlocks since the very start.

Thats something the OP could tell us, whether there are 2 sticky out
things on the opening door edge or one. Older interlocks on the hinge
side were not safe.


NT

"Andy Cuffe" wrote in message
...

I managed to get those out once using small pliers. As soon as you
loosen them, they should come out easily.

IME as long as they are not flush, most any screw can be persuaded out with
a good heavy pair of side cutters. Get a firm grip and use a screwdriver as
a lever.

Jeff, WB8NHV wrote:
Amana wasn't the only manufacturer to build its microwaves solidly
and to last. I have a Sharp Carousel digital microwave I bought new
seven years ago. Still works very well in daily use

I just threw out a 1977 Magic Chef with a huge interior and electronic
controls that worked wonderfully until I heated some hamburgers I didn't
realize were wrapped in foil. The small fire melted the inner ceiling
piece and the shaft for the stirrer, and I tried for a few years to find
parts to at least fix the stirrer (the inner ceiling piece was ugly but
usable). Failing that, I finally gave up and made the wife happy.

It was MUCH better than any of the other microwave ovens we've had since,
in that it did fractional heating (10-90%) by turning the magnetron in
tenths of a second, i.e. 40% heat was on 0.4 seconds, off 0.6 seconds.
This tended to heat things MUCH more nicely. The ones we've had since
tend to do garbage stuff, e.g. 40 seconds at 50% heat means it heats
for 20 seconds and runs the timer with heat off for 20 seconds. If
I wanted to heat stuff that way I could do that myself with a bang-bang
on-off controller and my kitchen clock.

--
"Nowadays, security guys break the Mac every single day. Every single day,
they come out with a total exploit, your machine can be taken over totally.
I dare anybody to do that once a month on the Windows machine."
-- Bill Gates, in an interview with Newsweek's Steven Levy

"clifto" wrote in message
...

It was MUCH better than any of the other microwave ovens we've had since,
in that it did fractional heating (10-90%) by turning the magnetron in
tenths of a second, i.e. 40% heat was on 0.4 seconds, off 0.6 seconds.
This tended to heat things MUCH more nicely. The ones we've had since
tend to do garbage stuff, e.g. 40 seconds at 50% heat means it heats
for 20 seconds and runs the timer with heat off for 20 seconds. If
I wanted to heat stuff that way I could do that myself with a bang-bang
on-off controller and my kitchen clock.

The Panasonic Genius models have an SMPS that can vary the true power down
to 10%.

Homer J Simpson wrote:
"clifto" wrote in message
...
It was MUCH better than any of the other microwave ovens we've had since,
in that it did fractional heating (10-90%) by turning the magnetron in
tenths of a second, i.e. 40% heat was on 0.4 seconds, off 0.6 seconds.
This tended to heat things MUCH more nicely. The ones we've had since
tend to do garbage stuff, e.g. 40 seconds at 50% heat means it heats
for 20 seconds and runs the timer with heat off for 20 seconds. If
I wanted to heat stuff that way I could do that myself with a bang-bang
on-off controller and my kitchen clock.

The Panasonic Genius models have an SMPS that can vary the true power down
to 10%.

Thanks! I'll look at one when the discretionary budget comes back up a bit.

--
"Nowadays, security guys break the Mac every single day. Every single day,
they come out with a total exploit, your machine can be taken over totally.
I dare anybody to do that once a month on the Windows machine."
-- Bill Gates, in an interview with Newsweek's Steven Levy

UPDATE ON MY OLD RADARANGE:

I managed to get the old screws out and have installed the new rubber
seal along with the clean mica-glass and everything else to ensure a
nice clean and snug fit. After reassembling the door and turning on
the Radarange, I used an Amprobe "microwave leakage detector"
borrowed
from a friend. I honestly expected to find a small leak (at the very
least). But there were none! I guess the only thing left to do now is
to make myself a bag of popcorn. Maybe after I shine all the chrome
on
this baby!
Bryan

On 12 Feb, 00:58, clifto wrote:
Jeff, WB8NHV wrote:

I just threw out a 1977 Magic Chef with a huge interior and electronic
controls that worked wonderfully until I heated some hamburgers I didn't

It was MUCH better than any of the other microwave ovens we've had since,
in that it did fractional heating (10-90%) by turning the magnetron in
tenths of a second, i.e. 40% heat was on 0.4 seconds, off 0.6 seconds.
This tended to heat things MUCH more nicely. The ones we've had since
tend to do garbage stuff, e.g. 40 seconds at 50% heat means it heats
for 20 seconds and runs the timer with heat off for 20 seconds. If
I wanted to heat stuff that way I could do that myself with a bang-bang
on-off controller and my kitchen clock.

why do almost none of the modern electronic controllers do it like
that? Bang bang control is no good for eclairs or souffles.


NT

On 12 Feb, 23:57, wrote:
UPDATE ON MY OLD RADARANGE:

I managed to get the old screws out and have installed the new rubber
seal along with the clean mica-glass and everything else to ensure a
nice clean and snug fit. After reassembling the door and turning on
the Radarange, I used an Amprobe "microwave leakage detector"
borrowed
from a friend. I honestly expected to find a small leak (at the very
least). But there were none! I guess the only thing left to do now is
to make myself a bag of popcorn. Maybe after I shine all the chrome
on
this baby!
Bryan

There are a lot of useless microwave leakage detectors on the market
over here, simply because theres no need for them to work. Your old
rubber sealed machine is an unusual exception to that.


NT

wrote:

UPDATE ON MY OLD RADARANGE:

I managed to get the old screws out and have installed the new rubber
seal along with the clean mica-glass and everything else to ensure a
nice clean and snug fit. After reassembling the door and turning on
the Radarange, I used an Amprobe "microwave leakage detector"
borrowed
from a friend. I honestly expected to find a small leak (at the very
least). But there were none! I guess the only thing left to do now is
to make myself a bag of popcorn. Maybe after I shine all the chrome
on
this baby!
Bryan

I would not trust a meter that said there was no leak at all, unless I had
tested it. (if it is a LED type go/no-go then it may be blown up)

If you have a meter made with a diode (e.g. HSMS-2822) and a moving-coil
meter then it should show some level of leakage from even a quite good
microwave oven, and you should certainly see a reaction near a mobile phone
(cellphone) that is transmitting. That way you would know that the meter
has not been destroyed by e.g. being put inside the oven.

Chris

Were those ranges 915 MHz or 2.4 GHz. If the former, a consumer grade
tester may not be tuned to detect anything at all.

Chris Jones wrote:

wrote:



UPDATE ON MY OLD RADARANGE:

I managed to get the old screws out and have installed the new rubber
seal along with the clean mica-glass and everything else to ensure a
nice clean and snug fit. After reassembling the door and turning on
the Radarange, I used an Amprobe "microwave leakage detector"
borrowed
from a friend. I honestly expected to find a small leak (at the very
least). But there were none! I guess the only thing left to do now is
to make myself a bag of popcorn. Maybe after I shine all the chrome
on
this baby!
Bryan



I would not trust a meter that said there was no leak at all, unless I had
tested it. (if it is a LED type go/no-go then it may be blown up)

If you have a meter made with a diode (e.g. HSMS-2822) and a moving-coil
meter then it should show some level of leakage from even a quite good
microwave oven, and you should certainly see a reaction near a mobile phone
(cellphone) that is transmitting. That way you would know that the meter
has not been destroyed by e.g. being put inside the oven.

Chris



--
Joe Leikhim K4SAT
"The RFI-EMI-GUY"©

"Treason doth never prosper: what's the reason?
For if it prosper, none dare call it treason."

"Follow The Money" ;-P