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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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#1
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I have a pair of really nice three way Pioneer speakers. They stand
about 3.50 ft. off the floor and use 12 inch woofers. The foam rings around the circumferance of the cones has rotted away leaving the paper cone supported only by the center suspension. I've seen on the Internet and in catalogs foam repair kits. The sellers make the repair sound so easy but I'm concerned about how you actually center the cone when you glue, ( I assume) these rings into place. Way back in the stone age, 1920's speakes used three shims which you stuck down between the inside of the voice coil and the magnet to center a new cone which you were installing. This was after you glued your old voice coil onto the new cone. You then glued the new cone and the cardboard ring in place. It was a tedious job the say the least. With these foam jobs, do you have to rip off the center cardboard or felt disc which protects the voice coil and magnet area to shim the cone when attaching these new foam rings? If anyone has performed this type of repair and can share the details of the procedure with me I would be very grateful. Thanks for any help. Lenny Stein, Barlen Electronics. |
#2
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#3
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![]() wrote in message oups.com... I have a pair of really nice three way Pioneer speakers. They stand about 3.50 ft. off the floor and use 12 inch woofers. The foam rings around the circumferance of the cones has rotted away leaving the paper cone supported only by the center suspension. I've seen on the Internet and in catalogs foam repair kits. The sellers make the repair sound so easy but I'm concerned about how you actually center the cone when you glue, ( I assume) these rings into place. Way back in the stone age, 1920's speakes used three shims which you stuck down between the inside of the voice coil and the magnet to center a new cone which you were installing. This was after you glued your old voice coil onto the new cone. You then glued the new cone and the cardboard ring in place. It was a tedious job the say the least. With these foam jobs, do you have to rip off the center cardboard or felt disc which protects the voice coil and magnet area to shim the cone when attaching these new foam rings? If anyone has performed this type of repair and can share the details of the procedure with me I would be very grateful. Thanks for any help. Lenny Stein, Barlen Electronics. Steps 8 & 9 comprise one generic method, which may be of some help. But this certainly doesn't apply well to every speaker, so YMMV: http://www.speakerrepair.com/instructions.html |
#4
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#6
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On Feb 1, 5:27 pm, "
wrote: I have a pair of really nice three way Pioneer speakers.... With these foam jobs, do you have to rip off the center cardboard or felt disc which protects the voice coil and magnet area to shim the cone when attaching these new foam rings? If anyone has performed this type of repair and can share the details of the procedure with me I would be very grateful. Thanks for any help. Lenny Stein, Barlen Electronics. There are a lot of people who claim success refoaming certain types of woofers (ones with large gaps like Advent or EPI) without shimming the voice coil. I always shim the VC when refoaming. Cutting away the dust cap, shimming, and replacing the dust cap is very easy and quick. Removing the old foam/glue, cleaning the residue, and glueing in the new foam is very time consuming and tedious. If you skip the easy part (shimming) you risk having to do the PITA part (replacing the surround) over again. If you have not bought the new surrounds yet, check with wooferrepair.com. They sell surround kits which include an excellent how-to DVD. If you have never done it before, the instructional DVD alone is worth the price of the whole kit. Paul |
#7
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![]() "Paul" wrote in message oups.com... If you have never done it before, the instructional DVD alone is worth the price of the whole kit. It's the most complete kit for the money I've seen so far. Thanks for posting, RM~ |
#8
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![]() "Paul" wrote in message oups.com... an excellent how-to DVD. I down loaded it (57mb to a zip disk) last night and watched it. It really is informative for someone (me) who has not refoamed a speaker before. It also convinced me that removing the dust cover and shimming the coil is a real worth while way to go, particularly someone like myself who hasn't developed the feel for the proper clearance. RM~ |
#9
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Rob Mills wrote:
I down loaded it (57mb to a zip disk) last night and watched it. It really is informative for someone (me) who has not refoamed a speaker before. It also convinced me that removing the dust cover and shimming the coil is a real worth while way to go, particularly someone like myself who hasn't developed the feel for the proper clearance. RM~ Thanks for sharing this info. I downloaded the video as well - a good tutorial! -- Adrian C |
#11
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![]() "Paul" wrote in message oups.com... If you have not bought the new surrounds yet, check with wooferrepair.com. They sell surround kits which include an excellent how-to DVD. If you have never done it before, the instructional DVD alone is worth the price of the whole kit. I ordered my woofer repair kit via U.S. mail a week ago to day from WooferRepair. I got the kit today, 7 days later. I figure that's pretty quick considering I ordered by mail so I could pay by check. Everything looks great, just as specified at their web site. Now if I can get my part done. RM~ |
#12
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![]() "Paul" wrote in message oups.com... There are a lot of people who claim success refoaming certain types of woofers (ones with large gaps like Advent or EPI) without shimming the voice coil. I always shim the VC when refoaming. Cutting away the dust cap, shimming, and replacing the dust cap is very easy and quick. Removing the old foam/glue, cleaning the residue, and glueing in the new foam is very time consuming and tedious. If you skip the easy part (shimming) you risk having to do the PITA part (replacing the surround) over again. If you have not bought the new surrounds yet, check with wooferrepair.com. They sell surround kits which include an excellent how-to DVD. If you have never done it before, the instructional DVD alone is worth the price of the whole kit. ************************************************** *********************** I did my first set of 10 inch woofers using the wooferrpair.com kit and everything went great. I got a little anxious on the first one and attached the surround to the cone after letting the glue set for only 5 min which kept me very busy pressing out the wrinkles for about 30 min. I waited 10 min on the second one and everything went well, didn't need any clamping and the joints actually pulled them selves tighter as they dried. Shimming was a piece of cake with the plastic shims that wooferrepair supplied. I don't know but suspect that using the paper shims supplied by some vendors could be a nightmare as it takes a little force to get them in, might have to soak them in a solution of viagra. Someone mentioned that they used tacky glue from a crafts store to attach the surrounds. Out of curiosity I picked up a bottle of Aleens "original tacky glue" (they have several different types). I tested it and compared it with the glue supplied with the kit and it has the same amount of tackiness after drying a few min and even smells the same (If it looks like a duck, quacks like a duck, it's a duck). I do believe that in my next woofer repair (I have several more to do) I will use the $2 surrounds from MAT electronics and tacky glue but highly recommend wooferrepair.com for the first time. RM~ |
#13
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Rob Mills wrote:
"Paul" wrote in message oups.com... There are a lot of people who claim success refoaming certain types of woofers (ones with large gaps like Advent or EPI) without shimming the voice coil. I always shim the VC when refoaming. Cutting away the dust cap, shimming, and replacing the dust cap is very easy and quick. Removing the old foam/glue, cleaning the residue, and glueing in the new foam is very time consuming and tedious. If you skip the easy part (shimming) you risk having to do the PITA part (replacing the surround) over again. If you have not bought the new surrounds yet, check with wooferrepair.com. They sell surround kits which include an excellent how-to DVD. If you have never done it before, the instructional DVD alone is worth the price of the whole kit. ************************************************** *********************** I did my first set of 10 inch woofers using the wooferrpair.com kit and everything went great. I got a little anxious on the first one and attached the surround to the cone after letting the glue set for only 5 min which kept me very busy pressing out the wrinkles for about 30 min. I waited 10 min on the second one and everything went well, didn't need any clamping and the joints actually pulled them selves tighter as they dried. Shimming was a piece of cake with the plastic shims that wooferrepair supplied. I don't know but suspect that using the paper shims supplied by some vendors could be a nightmare as it takes a little force to get them in, might have to soak them in a solution of viagra. Someone mentioned that they used tacky glue from a crafts store to attach the surrounds. Out of curiosity I picked up a bottle of Aleens "original tacky glue" (they have several different types). I tested it and compared it with the glue supplied with the kit and it has the same amount of tackiness after drying a few min and even smells the same (If it looks like a duck, quacks like a duck, it's a duck). I do believe that in my next woofer repair (I have several more to do) I will use the $2 surrounds from MAT electronics and tacky glue but highly recommend wooferrepair.com for the first time. RM~ I just bought a kit from a local supplier off eBay. I didn't actually know that they were local, but used them because they supposedly had a kit that was specific to my particular woofers. Turned out that it wasn't; but it was close enough. The kit came with paper shims, which were kind of a PITA, but not impossible even for a 1st timer. I expected new dust caps, but instead I got instructions to slice around the periphery of the caps, then reglue them. I can't even see the joint; but this obviously wouldn't work with an aluminum cap. All in all, the job turned out well; and I'm very pleased with the effort. The $14.99 thrift-store EPI's sound great!. Do you have a link to MAT? I have enough glue left to do at least four more 8"ers and shim stock appeared to be simply card stock. No reason to spend another $25 for the next pair if I can do it for $4. jak |
#14
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![]() "jakdedert" wrote in message ... I got instructions to slice around the periphery of the caps, then reglue them. I have seen those instructions and they make me nervous. They suggest that you cut it just above the glue line. I've noticed that in some speakers the voice coil leads exit through the cone just a fraction below that glue line of the dust cup. Think I'll pass. Guess if you were doing this every day you would probably get pretty good at judging where and where not to slice. Do you have a link to MAT? www.matelectronics.com They do have a $25 minimum but that's better than shelling out $25 and getting nothing but 1 pair of surrounds. RM~ |
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